Wednesday, June 11, 2014

The Sartorialist in Turin!

After the men’s collections in Paris I will return to Italy and spend a few days exploring Turin as the first stop on a month long trip around Italy.


What’s the grand old cafe of Turin?  Which is the most chic, old hotel of the city?  There must be a beautifully ancient barber shop there?  Is it Turin or Bologna that’s famous for the candy shops and pharmacies?


Tomorrow and next week I’ll be asking for your advice about a few of the other cities I will be visiting!


Starting next week The Sartorialist is all about the Dream of an Italian Summer!



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  1. Gap

    June 11, 2014 at 10:40 am

    So happy you’ll come to Italy, when in Bologna go to Colazione da Bianca, it’s my fav place for a coffe, or a great aperitivo!
    Love to know you’ll be in Italy!!!
    xox, Gap.

  2. Name*A.

    June 11, 2014 at 10:44 am

    Lake Maggiore deserves a visit!.

  3. A.

    June 11, 2014 at 10:45 am

    Lake Maggiore deserves a visit!

  4. Emilia

    June 11, 2014 at 10:49 am

    Coffee shop: CaffĂŠ Torino and CaffĂŠ San Carlo in Piazza San Carlo. Discover the rest. Turin is a beautiful city and I am sure you will have so many chances for great pictures.

  5. marie pierre

    June 11, 2014 at 10:51 am

    Lucky you !
    I wanna live the dream of an Italian summer too !!

  6. RJT

    June 11, 2014 at 10:57 am

    Oh how fabulous !
    I will be waiting with bated breath for your photographs from this trip.
    I just know they are going to be glam, gorgeous and inspiring.
    Safe journey and happy trails

  7. Lili

    June 11, 2014 at 11:04 am

    Baratti & Milano (Piazza Castello 29 – Galleria Subalpina. Torino.) It’s a beautiful old cafe defintely worth a visit.

  8. sara

    June 11, 2014 at 11:15 am

    Turin is famous for more than one grand cafe: you can try Mulassano or Baratti e Milano (Piazza Castello), and of course Platti (corso Vittorio Emanuele II 72, they have a wonderful chocolate cake), and Caffè Elena (piazza Vittorio: very nice view on the square, and old interiors, but nothing special now).
    Chocolate, pastry and red wine are the local specialties, and they are really really gorgeous. Unfortunately summer (ok, almost summer) isn’t the perfect time of the year to taste them!

  9. Plaerdemavida

    June 11, 2014 at 11:27 am

    In Bologna: Da Nello restaurant. Aperitivo in Zanarini. Both great places!

  10. Marguerite

    June 11, 2014 at 11:33 am

    When I went there, I stayed at the Grand Hotel Sitea (which I’m not sure is as old world as you’d like). There’s also an amazing restaurant which I highly recommend called Tre Galline.

  11. Francesca

    June 11, 2014 at 11:36 am

    Definitely caffè Torino and Baratti as someone has already suggested. I’d also pay a visit to Platti in Corso Vittorio Emanuele (an other historical cafe) and to Gobino in Via Lagrange (the best chocolate boutique in town, and we’re renown for chocolate!).

  12. Francesca

    June 11, 2014 at 11:37 am

    Bologna is famous for its university and arcades


  13. Marguerite

    June 11, 2014 at 11:39 am

    I stayed at the Hotel Grand Sitea. Also recommend Tre Galline, a very good Piedmontese restaurant.

  14. Elisa

    June 11, 2014 at 11:56 am

    Torino is so beautiful!!! I’ll be looking forward for your photos there!

    Some adresses:

    For historical coffees: CaffĂŠ Fiorio, San Carlo and Al Bicerin

    Markets: Porta Palazzo and Piazza Madama Cristina

    Shops: wander around via Po, Piazza Castello, Piazza Vittorio with a slight deviation to Melissa Erboristeria for the atmosphere (really close to the Mole, the cinema museum).

    Neighbourhoods to wander around: Vanchiglia (kind of artsy neighborhood) and San Salvario (intercultural atmoshpere as well as night life)

    Finally great pictures can be taken at the Valentino park and it’s bars just over the river..

  15. Maneula

    June 11, 2014 at 12:09 pm

    You are right: Turin is famous for its old cafes. Actually some of them date back to late 18th. My favourite are “Mulassano” ( Piazza Castello, 15, a small but gorgeous place), or “Bicerin” (Piazza della Consolata, 5, where they invented a special local delicacy). Pharmacies can also reveal some surprises, as some of them were in the past official suppliers of the Royal Family. Look for the “Regia Farmacia XX Settembre”, they produce an elixir balm which was very famous even in the last century.
    I suggest you a walk in the area close to Via Barbaroux, where antiques shops are, Via Maria Vittoria with its pastry chef shops and other antiques; in the end don’t forget Via Sant’Agostino and surroundings to have a look at unexpected fashion and design boutiques.
    I live in Turin, I moved here some years ago and I fell in love with this charming and friendly city! Sure you will enjoy.

  16. sophiefab

    June 11, 2014 at 12:27 pm

    hello!!! i’m from Turin, and i’m very happy to hear you’ll be in my romantic and macig city!!!

    the most beautiful and old cafe in Turin is Mulassano, very small and very famous for luxurious tramezzini…an important candy shop is Stratta in Piazza San Carlo, best candies and packages!!!
    enjoy your holiday

  17. Sevan

    June 11, 2014 at 1:14 pm

    Yes, I do dream of an Italian summer !

  18. Fabio

    June 11, 2014 at 1:49 pm

    i am living in NY but I am from Turin. I’d like to suggest for dinner Villa Somis and il Cambio. They are two historical places that are serving excellent food. Bar you can’t leave Turin without trying Bicerin (coffee and choccolate since 1763)!
    I will come back to Italy for summer next Monday, and I hope to see you.

  19. jp

    June 11, 2014 at 3:27 pm

    Please keep posting while you are away. Please. I love italy and love the way you picture it!

  20. Monica

    June 11, 2014 at 4:06 pm

    I’m so happy to know that you will be here (in Turin) very soon, don’t miss the biggest europe market “Porta Palazzo”, so colourful and lively! I suggest to visit my little neighborhoord “Quadrilatero Romano”, one of “movida” heart, and San Salvario. And finally enjoy the city … I wish to meet you somewhere “per caso” (by chance)!

  21. Silvia

    June 11, 2014 at 4:33 pm

    Bologna is famous for porticos! And features two of the best boutiques anywhere:
    Tassinari (handmade shoes – got no equals!)
    L’Inde le Palais (dare you to find best dressed windows anywhere)
    For coffee, look no further:
    Enjoy my hometown! See you in London town sometimes

  22. Mara

    June 11, 2014 at 5:05 pm

    You have to see the South…I suggest Puglia!!! Came to Bari or Trani, you’ll find very very cool people and special places!

  23. dina louise

    June 11, 2014 at 5:05 pm

    i’ve not been there… but there is a guesthouse featured in the june elle decor UK that looks gorgeous! and the owner is known for her delicious organic breakfasts… the photos look divine! it’s called… colazione in piazza castello.

  24. Francesca

    June 11, 2014 at 5:15 pm

    Come to Ferrara it is a beautiful medieval town near Bologna. you can find a historical coffee called Bida toVia Mazzini, where you can eat a fantastic “bombolone” with” nutella e crema”. Enjoy.

  25. jb

    June 11, 2014 at 7:37 pm

    Da Cianci Piola Caffè on the piazza just behind Palazzo Reale and the Duomo for affordable, very local Piemontese food. Vitello tonnato, carne cruda, local fresh pasta and so on.

    For something more contemporary with young upcoming chefs, but still very local to the region, try either È Cucina on Via Bertola, known for its surprise multi-course menu at dinner or Contesto Alimentare on Via Albertina.

    Second the others who recommend Porta Palazzo, as it is Europe’s largest food market, supposedly. But watch your belongings! Also to Mulassano for caffè.

  26. Cinzia

    June 11, 2014 at 9:26 pm

    Hi, im from Torino but bene living the the US for quite long…. Please take a visit of caffe al bicerin, it is a 250 old small caffe famous for the original chocolate drink.

    In Florence it’s a must if you love alchemy , perfume and magic potions La Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella – buy their amazing potpourri it’s unique…

    Enjoy Italy. Cinzia

  27. Elle

    June 12, 2014 at 2:13 am

    Welcome back in Italy!

  28. Sara

    June 12, 2014 at 2:47 am

    The CaffĂŠ Reale is also worth a visit. Turin has so many hidden places, hope you’ll love it as much as I did the first time I visited!

  29. Annpi

    June 12, 2014 at 3:49 am

    Please came to visit Parma, Giuseppe Verdi’s land! You will be fascinated

  30. t

    June 12, 2014 at 3:57 am

    next to Baratti there is a historic cafè called Mulassano. Ask for a Cremino. it’s a short espresso. No sugar needed! Worth it!

  31. sara

    June 12, 2014 at 4:51 am

    good luck…it’s 40 celsius degrees now here in Italy.

  32. natalya

    June 12, 2014 at 6:12 am

    If you are into your chocolate, you’re in luck! Turin is the capital of chocolate, in particular gianduiotto (hazelnut chocolate). The best are found at Guido Gobino in Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange, I go every time I’m in Turin.
    Cafe-wise, Cafe Torino, San Carlo and Mulassano are brilliant.

  33. Val

    June 12, 2014 at 6:16 am

    Torino is a greta cuty.

    all good and authentic the suggestions made so far for the historical places.

    If you want to go some where ‘new’ and not obvious, i’d suggest these 2 restaurants:


  34. Giancarlo

    June 12, 2014 at 6:30 am

    It ‘s a real pleasure to have the famous Sartorialist in our city. I would be very honored to make your acquaintance.

  35. Gabriella

    June 12, 2014 at 7:48 am

    hi Scott
    Italy= Summer= Ice cream ! – you must go to Cremeria Santo Stefano where a son and his mother make the best gelato and such an pretty store.

  36. Lisa

    June 12, 2014 at 7:57 am

    Hi Scott.
    Turin is really nice and I’d suggest you to visit the cinema museum, part of it is inside the Mole Antonelliana and is pretty awesome. There’s also an elevator, if you’d like to go up to the top of the Mole.
    If you will have time, I also suggest to come and visit Lake Maggiore, specially Arona (where I live) and Stresa, they are both very picturesque. This is a Link with many info about the lake, if you want to have a look.

    Have a nice stay here in Italy!

  37. Angie

    June 12, 2014 at 8:14 am

    I lived in Torino for half a year and miss it dearly. Guido Gobino chocolate shop for the Giandujotti was one of my highlights. As well as Cafe Mulassano. La Venaria Reale is a little out of the city but worth a visit. It is such a stunning palace and the gardens seem to go on forever. Enjoy the beautiful city, I cannot wait to see your perspective of it all through your photos.

  38. Rebecca

    June 12, 2014 at 8:34 am

    What days are you going to stay in Turin?

    You’ll see a very elegant city, it was the firts capital of Italy and you can see it fro the big buidings and big streets since the King used to live here.

    It is plenty of cafes but I really reccommend you to go to Baratti &Milano, in Castello Square (Piazza Castello).

    However, if you manage to find it, you should go to “The Bicerin”, the historical cafes where Cavour (the man who politically unfiied Italy) used to drink this hisotrical coffe. It is a very small place (less beautiful than Baratti, maybe, but really worth it and historically meaningful) placed in Piazza della Consolata.

    I hope to see you taking pictures of this beautiful city!!

    Enjoy it!

  39. Kochkultur/ Beate

    June 12, 2014 at 11:27 am

    It’s a couple of years ago, but I realy loved Turin. The city of the Porticos, old and beautiful Shop and Cafe interiors and not to forget the chocolate.
    Very impressing the old FIAT factory Lingotto, it is a exhibition centre now, but you can still visit the roftop racing test oval and the helicline for the cars to the rooftop, a beautiful concrete structure.
    To get in the mood for Turin you should read Natalia Ginzburg’s ‘Lessico famigliare’ (I suppose its ‘Family sayings’ in English) an all time favorite read.

  40. Marcela la foodsitter

    June 12, 2014 at 11:29 am

    As a torinese by adoption I see you ‘ve been given splendid advices!!
    For a tipical and well served (and nicely priced too!) please do go for dinner to Caffe della basilica! You can find all ten directions on my website too!!
    Enjoy Torino!!! Do let me know if you need anything!!

  41. Camila

    June 13, 2014 at 12:01 am

    I can’t believe you are finally going to Turin! I study abroad there last year and I fell in love with the city (I used to live in Lingotto, right in front of the 8 gallery)! Everybody else has practically said the same recommendations that I would suggest like Parco Valentino, Al Bicerin, Porta Palazzo, Quadrilatero Romano. ( I particularly like il Quadrilatero Romano for vintage shopping and to get an aperitivo)
    I would also add that the first Eataly is in Turin, if you wanted to check that out. In the same area, the ‘museo nazionale dell’ automobile’ is blocks away from Eataly. Although it’s not fashion related, or classic art, in my opinion is a very interesting museum that showcases a great aspect of the history of Turin (Fiat, etc). I actually got to see Lapo Elkann doing a book signing in the museum while I was there.
    My favorite piazza in Turin is Piazza Solferino. Beautiful during a warm day.
    I would recommend getting gelato from Alberto Marchetti (there is one on Corso Vittorio Emmanuele and there is a new one on Via Po).
    I would recommend going to the Monte dei Cappuccini and la Superga, because in my opinion those views over the city and the alps are breathtaking. The elevator of la Molle also offers a great view.
    My last recommendation would be San Salvario. I loved going out to dance, drink, aperitivo in San Salvario….very interesting and different crowd. I would probably say it’s like the Brooklyn of Turin.
    I could go on and on about stuff to do in Turin. Not only is it a beautiful city, especially the stuff downtown, it is also wonderful because it is not plagued by tourists like Firenze or Venice. I hope you enjoy your time.

  42. Nicola

    June 13, 2014 at 4:14 am

    You’ve to try MacBun (it means “how tasteful” in local slang and it’s obviously a pun on McDonald).
    It’s a slow fast food, your hamburger are made at the moment with local Fassona beef meat but the best is the raw chopped meat with oil and lemon (Piedmunteisa).
    You can find it both in Turin and in Rivoli, near the beautiful realm.
    Have a good time here in Italy.

  43. Nadia

    June 13, 2014 at 5:18 am

    I Scott,
    in Turin you MUST visit the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, inside the Mole Antonelliana.
    Take the elevetor to the top of the dome…it’s a breath-taking experience! Don’t do it if you’re afraid of heights!

  44. Nadia

    June 13, 2014 at 9:08 am

    I mean… Hi Scott!!!

  45. Isa

    June 13, 2014 at 12:25 pm

    hi Scott,
    I am soooo happy to read you are coming to Turin. I am French but I would not live in any other city in Italy.
    I will take some days off to look for you (kidding, unfortunately).
    All of the advices are OK but if you have some money in your pocket, please go eat at the restaurant CombalZero set in the Castello di Rivoli, this is an amazing culinary experience.

  46. Laura

    June 13, 2014 at 8:29 pm

    My husband is from Torino and we visit at least once a year – you MUST go to the caffe in the Palazzo Reale – many Torinese don’t even know it exists.

    They make an amazing hot chocolate.

  47. Nick

    June 15, 2014 at 4:44 am

    Hey Scott,
    Definitely recommend checking out the Piazza Emanuele Filliberto for a great less formal aperitivo scene when you are in Torino, especially the Shure bar. Tuesdays are good. The area feels a lot like the east end of London – obviously much prettier. Also an excellent siberian restaurant on Via Bellezia, you can’t miss it, as their is a vintage cosmonaut suit in the window! Great town, full of beautiful people, fell in love, had my car broke into and made some great friends in the space of 3 days. Would go back in a Heartbeat.

  48. consuelo

    June 15, 2014 at 12:45 pm

    Hi Scott,
    in Torino make sure you see the historical building where Profondo Rosso from Dario Argento was shooted.
    The best hazelnut spread and chocolate spread are from the magic artisan GOBINO .
    The best ice cream stick is from the famous artisan PEPINO in Piazza Carignano.
    June the 29th you might as well go in Piazza San CARLO and see a surprising CENA IN BIANCO with hundrfeds of phantoms! Enjoy!

  49. Alessandro

    June 15, 2014 at 6:52 pm

    I’d recommend you pay a visit also to Jack Emerson (via Cesare Battisti 1) where you can find menswear inspired by the British tradition; this shop has been the go-to place for wealthy people in the last 30/40 years. I’d also suggest you to visit the top of the Lingotto from where you can enjoy an amazing view of the town. Another fantastic place is Castello Di Rivoli which is home to the museum of contemporary art, but also a beautiful unfinished building by Juvarra. I’m surprised nobody mentioned taking a walk in piazza Maria Teresa and the surrounding area; it’s a very elegant and posh area with specialty shops, art galleries and beautiful buildings.

  50. alexander

    June 15, 2014 at 9:33 pm

  51. elio

    June 16, 2014 at 6:13 am

    Hi Scott,
    as Fabio said, you should definitely make a visit at Del Cambio restaurant! It opened in the 18th century and was recently renewed with contributions from modern artist such as Patkin, Pistoletto, Herrera…
    And boasts a starred chef, too!

  52. DSM

    June 18, 2014 at 4:40 pm

    It is not right that once you come to Turin and I discover later!
    It will be for next time: the link you will have an alternative guide to Turin for the next trip.
    See you soon

  53. CRI

    June 18, 2014 at 4:49 pm

    Please tells us your dates in Torino!! Finallly!

  54. proper torinese

    June 20, 2014 at 5:15 am

    Dear Scott,
    see below my suggestions:

    1. hotel sangiors – it’s in the porta palazzo area. Not commercial or turistic at all.
    I would recommend the “stanze d’artista”

    2. bicerin – Best for breakfast – try the bicerin
    3. pepino – Best icecream in a gorgeous square
    4. piazza cavour and piazza maria teresa – lovely little squares
    5. Scannabue (sansalvario area) – my favourite restaurant for dinner
    6. Casa Mollino – a must see, you should contact Napoleone for an appointment
    7. Corso Fiume and Gran Madre area for a walk.
    8. Parco del Valentino
    9. Mulassano – of course
    10. piazza carlo alberto – another lovely spot

    have a lovely stay.

  55. MD

    June 20, 2014 at 12:27 pm

    I’m seconding Al Bicerin and Fiorio. If you visit the former, check out the church, La Consolata, right next door. In a side room that is not hard to find, you can see hundreds of beautiful ex-votos thanking saints for various miracles…they’re all handpainted, strange and charming.

    Peyrano chocolate shop is another Turin classic. It’s nearby Platti, which is definitely one of the most splendid cafes in Turin–chandeliers, waiters in suits, the most refined and beautiful pastries.

  56. Val Rynnimeri

    June 20, 2014 at 11:43 pm

    City of my summer visits to family, and later as a student and young architect still visiting family and hanging out with friends. I still try to get there but it’s not enough.

    Good advice above especially on local hotels, treats and cafes.

    Sometimes you photograph buildings, gardens and cityscapes so I will shift the focus… For architecture, especially very local, look to Piedmontese baroque by Guarino Guarini. Examples are Palazzo Carignano with its on the way to art nouveau flowing brick façade (nearby off the same square is a quirky but really interesting Egyptian Museum with one of the biggest collections in the world- well hidden and unbelievably under marketed), the Sindone or Chapel of the Holy Shroud (forget the sheet, the domed cupola above the vault is absolutely unique with its “infinite” layered black marble arches), and the Royal Church of San Lorenzo with its demon faces hidden in the interlacing arch structures on the interior and windows on the exterior of the dome.

    Also, compare Guarini to the 20s modern parking spiral ramps at Lingotto (already mentioned by others) if you go there. Lingotto is great. I had a drive on the roof track before it was renovated when I was driven up by bored security guards all of us stuffed into a tiny FIAT. The roofscape then and today is fantastic (better at speed though).

    Also anything you can find by Carlo Molino; it’s both unique semi-surreal architecture, elegantly engineered, and with that dark Torinese sensuality underlying. Look him up. You will find him really interesting. He did it all. Try and find his photography, even the erotic. How can you overlook an architect who produces his own erotica. Sorry I can’t give more detail. I have little sense of what its state or accessibility is today.

    Nervi’s semi-underused (my memories again) rationalist/brutalist Exhibition Hall at Parco Valentino on the Po River is also worth an architectural look.

    Best and good luck. Look forward to the pictures.

  57. Dennis Roach

    June 24, 2014 at 5:47 am


  58. Beatrice

    June 24, 2014 at 9:25 am

    I love Torino, it is the most magical of towns and often disregarded as too industrial. Not at all true – like all large towns in Europe, the industrial zone is found on the outskirts and not in the city center. There is an amazing market, il BalĂ´n, which is every Saturday and on the second Sunday of the month, there is the Gran BalĂ´n which is, as its name states, larger! A pretty cobbled street which hosts the antique part of the market is Via Borgo Dora which also has loads of little cafes with yummy food. Further down on Via Borgo Dora there is a little hole in the wall family run restaurant called Trattoria Valenza, which makes delicious home made food – you have to order the espresso with chocolate & an orange peel!

    You should also make it out to the Langhe region of Piemonte for good wine & food!

  59. Malu

    July 2, 2014 at 5:01 pm

    Bologna, an amazing city.
    Not like Milan, my city, but different and so special.
    You have to visit Bologna, take a coffe at Terzi and discover the hand made boutique of gentleman shoes Tassinari, in the old ebraic ghetto. u’ll love it.
    Eat at Tamburini and taste the real prosciutto, Osteria dell’Orsa for a special pasta with meat.
    Believe me, Bologna deserve your visit..

  60. Benedetta

    July 18, 2014 at 10:05 am

    Didn’t you take any photos in Turin? What a pity!

  61. franca

    July 19, 2014 at 1:15 pm

    I agree Turin has become a wonderful city. While in the past I always tried to move somewhere else and I enjoyed my connections worldwile now Turin is definitely the place to be, full of life, festivals, many places to go. Please take time to have a look at Jazz club und you might have the chance to see to most photographed smart lady in the city!

  62. Emil

    December 24, 2017 at 1:08 pm

    and what about the bagna cauda…………………

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