Thursday, June 12, 2014

The Sartorialist in Bari!

A week after Turin I’ll find myself in a southern Italian beach town, Bari.



I’ve never been to that region of Southern Italy, but I hear it’s beautiful. And I’ll be seeing my good friend Domenico Gianfrate.



Your input on Turin was great, so what do I have to know about Bari?


I love old cafes and old hotels, and for a fashion guy I’m surprised by how much I’m moved by the architecture and interior design of these old Italian cities.


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  1. Fabio

    June 12, 2014 at 11:59 am

    Come visit Trani, it’s beautiful!!

  2. Tony Rotondaro

    June 12, 2014 at 11:59 am

    You must see Alberobello!

    • LC

      June 12, 2014 at 6:57 pm

      Without a doubt! It feels like another world!

  3. Tara

    June 12, 2014 at 12:36 pm

    Come to Matera, I’ll buy you dinner ;-)

  4. Claudia

    June 12, 2014 at 12:42 pm

    enjoy!! Puglia the most beautiful region in Italy…

  5. monicavannucchi

    June 12, 2014 at 1:00 pm

    You must see Salento: the cities of Lecce, Otranto and Gallipoli and all little villages around thats, especially Tricase and Santa Maria di Leuca!

  6. Kat

    June 12, 2014 at 1:57 pm

    Although not close to the seaside you must photograph Assisi if you are able, even if you can only do it from along the highway that wends past it. You will see on the hillside even from afar. If you can do this, you will understand what I mean. Best to you during your travels.

    • lola

      June 12, 2014 at 3:24 pm

      Assisi is not exactly in Puglia ….

      • Kat

        June 12, 2014 at 7:20 pm

        Indeed it isn’t, Lola! A gold star for you!

  7. Alex

    June 12, 2014 at 3:42 pm

    I sure hope you’ll be writing up and passing on all those awesome tipps for all of those who don’t have such an awesome database to resort to when going to Bari! ;)
    xoxo Alex

  8. Silvio

    June 12, 2014 at 3:58 pm

    Oh Scott,
    this is a wonderful news to me.
    I’m following your blog every-day-of-my-life and i’m very excited you will be in my town tomorrow.
    Feel free, if you need a point of view and to taste our hospitality, to contact me by email.
    You’re great.

  9. Gaia

    June 12, 2014 at 4:38 pm

    That’s fantastic!!! Make sure you go to Polignano, it’s an amazing village not too far from Bari. And the food, make sure you try everything that is local!! Enjoy my beautiful region!


    June 12, 2014 at 6:08 pm


    My friend and I spent a few days in Bari last summer (we actually joked about the zebra crossings and how we hoped we might see you there). What stands out in my mind as a must-see in Bari are the lanes in the old town (Bari Vieccha) where ladies sit out and roll and shape fresh pasta on the street, its referred to as ‘Quartiere delle Orecchiette’. There is a real maze of lanes that you can wander up and down while finding said pasta-peddlers perched outside their homes with a table and a friend. I asked one of them if i could purchase some pasta, and I was quickly brought into the shade of their kitchen and a mezzo kilo was weighed out and bagged for me as her family sat around the table chatting and quarrelling.

    I would love to see your interpretation or impression of this area, as the image of it has really stayed with me.

  11. Giuseppe Santamaria

    June 12, 2014 at 6:33 pm

    My parents are from a little town just outside of Bari called Bitrito. Very charming old town with lots of hidden lane ways and paths. Bari itself is full of energy and great atmosphere.

  12. LC

    June 12, 2014 at 6:56 pm

    Conversano has some wonderful (small) nightlife and is very southern and very beautiful.

  13. Stefano

    June 12, 2014 at 7:18 pm

    You didn’t ask for it because you do not know they exist, but Puglia is famous for country houses hat have been adapted to resorts. They are really beautiful and definitely worth a stay for one night or two.they are called “Masseria”. You need a car, which I would in any case recommend if you like to move around the area.
    I would recommend Masseria Torre Coccaro, about 40 minutes from Bari, but on the internet you can find more.
    Of the other places recommended above:
    - Trani has a incredibly beautiful cathedral
    - Lecce is probably the nicest city in Puglia, but might be too far away
    - Matera is technically not in Puglia, but you’ll find unique houses in the old center, carves in the mountain. They are called “Sassi” =stones. It is a unesco protected site, unique in the world. Some “Sassi” have been converted to incredibly beautiful hotels.
    - Alberobello, a bit touristy for my taste, where you’ll find the “Trulli”, unique architecture of the area
    - Polignano has an incredible Grotto on the see with a good (not excellent) restaurant. But the place is incredible for dinner

    I also recommend Castel Monte, a unique 13th century citadel and castle, which can be visited in a couple of hours. Really unique.
    Depending on how much time you have, I would consider Ostuni and Martina Franca.

    • Nini piccola

      June 12, 2014 at 8:58 pm

      Perfect itinerary Stefano! Can’t wait to go back!

  14. Max

    June 13, 2014 at 2:22 am

    Be sure to visit the beautiful city of Lecce!

  15. Jean-Marie Detré

    June 13, 2014 at 3:04 am

    very nice !!!!! love it

  16. Tamsin Hickson

    June 13, 2014 at 4:12 am

    Watch “In Grazia di Dio”, directed by Edoardo Winspeare and visit Lecce and Tricase, and the village of Depressa where this his latest film is set and you will see the real Puglia.


    June 13, 2014 at 7:24 am

    Martina Franca, Castel del Monte, Taranto, Lecce

  18. Lor

    June 13, 2014 at 7:35 am

    J’ai mang√© la ***meilleure*** pizza blanche de ma vie (avec de la roquette dessus) sur une jolie place √† Bari… Peu de souvenirs pr√©cis pour te donner des astuces, mais j’ai ador√© cet endroit.

  19. Lor

    June 13, 2014 at 7:36 am

    Ah oui et comme le dit le com au-dessus, Ostuni et Martina Franca sont √† voir !! Quels souvenirs… Je suis all√©e aussi √† Alberobello et il y avait m√™me des champs d’artichauds.

  20. Carmen

    June 13, 2014 at 7:51 am

    If you can make it to the shores of Otranto, you must see the Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata.
    The mesmerizing mosaic floor, rumored to have inspired Dante, and the Martyrs. Very ornate and baroque but then combined with the sea and light and sky and food and people of the area – it’s all just otherworldly. I envy you!! Enjoy.

  21. Susan

    June 13, 2014 at 10:58 am


  22. AleŇ°

    June 13, 2014 at 4:08 pm

    Try Monopoli. Nice place.

  23. Isabel

    June 13, 2014 at 4:30 pm

    Every region of Italy is “the most beautiful” not only southern, I absolutely adore this country. You will see nowhere so many well dressed, chic and simply beautiful people.

  24. Lili Kerala

    June 14, 2014 at 12:23 pm

    You’ll probably see lots of young people wearing sarouel-style jeans and crests hairstyle (both were highly popular when I stayed there in May)

    Walk around and “get lost” in old Bari little streets, you’ll get the impression you share its inhabitants’everyday life. Don’t miss Martinucci (gelateri√†/pasticceria), worth the visit for the atmosphere there AND the incredible choice of ice-creams.

    And if you have time to explore the area, go and visit Trani, Polignano a mare, Alberobello, Lecce, Matera, drive on the beautiful little road between Otranto and Santa Maria di Leuca…

  25. Mara

    June 14, 2014 at 1:52 pm

    Really in my town???? Wonderful!!!!!! When exactly? You have to see all the old town, visiting the romanic churches of San Nicola and the Cathedral and where you can find an old little coffee, called “La ciclater”, very cool! Visit the Castle also…you can find a lot of tipical restaurants on the sea.
    Then you must go, starting from the old town, on the the promenade and visit the new town, with elegant streets Via Sparano and Via Argiro.
    You have to taste focaccia, mozzarelle, seafoods and a lots of good food and wine
    You’ll meet fashion and cool persons in Bari, but also in nearest towns like Trani in the north (very very cool!), Polignano and Ostuni in the south…

  26. joelle

    June 14, 2014 at 4:27 pm

    My first trip to Bari was 22 years ago with my husband who was born and raised in Puglia,
    While I have spent many years traveling to from San Francisco to Milan and Lake Como for work, as well as much time in Rome, I have to say me heart is in Puglia! Please head north to Mattinata — just an hour from Bari and see the Gargano peninsula. The people are kind, the orecchiette divine.
    While in Bari, dine at La Pignata.
    Have a lovely time!!

  27. Olivia

    June 15, 2014 at 5:06 pm

    It’s a good 15 years since I was in Bari, but the bit I remember best of our (backpacking) trip through the south was a great day trip to Lecce – lovely town, beautifully set up for tourists, essentially empty of them. Perfect.

  28. Jie

    June 15, 2014 at 9:07 pm

    Giampaolo Ristorante in Bari, my husband and I stumbled upon that place one night 3 years ago, and we still talk about that meal. The fresh seafood and fish is spectacular.

  29. Alan

    June 15, 2014 at 10:56 pm

    When the weather heats up, most Barese head for the sea. As several have suggested, Polignano a Mare is a popular sunbathing and swimming destination with several coves where locals and tourists intermingle. There is also the historical Centro Storico, surrounded by gelaterias and restaurants serving seafood, especially crudo.

    At dusk in Bari, definitely head for a stroll along the Via Venezia of Bari Vecchia that faces the sea. There are numerous bars and cafes in the Piazza Mercantile and Piazza Ferarese area where people populate in the evenings, generally things don’t started till late. During the hot summer evenings I remember just sitting outside in the piazzas, as all ages would descend and socialize, and the city would vibrate with the energy.

    Beyond the typical orecchiette pasta, traditionally served with rapini, be sure to have some burrata cheese as antipasto. Close to the new Eataly Bari there are usually vendors who set up along the sea wall, at night, and sell ‘fritture’ i.e. fried seafood, a tradition that feels like it goes back a least a couple of generations.

    Further south, places such as Lecce and Otranto, as mentioned, are definitely places that are classy and easy on the eyes. Overall, it’s hard to go wrong in Puglia as most towns have something worth seeing, great food, and affordable prices. Just remember, most things shut down during the afternoon siesta before opening up again in the evening. If you visit in July or August you will know why. The heel is hot, but fortunately not overrun by tourists, as the sun is more or less guaranteed. Or as Frank Bruni stated in the Times, “The Heel is Rising”!

  30. giulia

    June 16, 2014 at 9:13 am

    stop by in bologna, you’ll love it!

  31. MrSmithDC

    June 17, 2014 at 8:05 am

    I second Alberobello, the historic section is architecture is unique.

  32. stefano

    June 17, 2014 at 8:34 am

    The old town of Bari is beautiful, discover it

  33. Anna

    June 17, 2014 at 10:39 am

    Bari is a fashion conscious city. I remember the most cute bikinis ever.

  34. daniele

    June 18, 2014 at 2:58 am

    Hi Scott…. try if you have time to visit small pugliese villages like Cisternino in the trulli area….or Ostuni…. Salento area and Lecce would be another great option but it’s not so close….

  35. sandyy

    June 20, 2014 at 4:28 am

    Italy is beautiful, full of inspiration :)

  36. unico

    June 20, 2014 at 1:07 pm

    The via Sparano in Bari has a wonderful passeggiata for window shoppers, and half the town turns out to stroll in the twillight. Look up some pictures on the internet to see the kind of turn-of-the-century street it is, with a median divide of date palms. There are some old fashioned liberty-style department stores that are now occupied by youth-oriented, fast fashion outlets, with rock music pounding from them, but you get a sense of how this was THE street to be for elegant Bari (when it was elegant).

    In the heart of the old quarter you might find yourself almost embarrassed to have such an intimate view into people’s domestic lives. Living room doors open right onto the public walkway — no set back whatsoever. Upstairs windows give full views of bathroom interior, where guys are shaving (tats all over their arms). Women lean out of windows in the bathrobes to talk with other women hanging out their windows in their bathrobes, their husbands visibly snoozing downstairs, while the TV blares and younger generations nurse babies. Often there is no front door to close at all. Just the long strings and plastic to keep out the flies. The concept of privacy is almost non-existent.

    Seafood dishes are sublime in Bari. In some of the upscale restaurants, there is a smoking booth inside the restaurant so that smokers don’t need to go stand outside (and be accosted by beggars or thieves). Still, the heart of Bari is sunny, and you can feel how close it is to Greece.

  37. Curt Diggs

    June 20, 2014 at 1:57 pm

    Sounds awesome to me. I need to travel more myself. I’m following your blog now. Looking forward to more posts like this. :)

  38. Angelo Inglese

    June 21, 2014 at 7:33 am

    Great Scott, I’ll wait with Domenico also Ginosa!! for LEGGENDA
    !you could also report:
    / /

  39. Christine

    June 25, 2014 at 10:11 am

    Matera was my absolute favorite!

  40. Patrick

    June 30, 2014 at 5:01 pm

    Bari is hardly a “beach town”. See the comments above: it’s a city.

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