Tuesday, September 6, 2011

The Beginning of Fall Shopping

It’s supposed to be a high of 65 degrees, and rainy all day today.  It’s the perfect mood to start my Fall shopping.


Actually…I’ve already started.  My first real decision is going to happen when I go to the tailor and start hemming the pants that I bought.  I know it sounds simple – but it’s not so simple.  It’s actually one of the few places that a man can put a more personal stamp on his clothing.


I’ve been looking through my old files and thought Burberry had a lot of good suggestions for pant hem options.

ABOVE: Slim, and right at the ankle, no break.

ABOVE: Slim, past the ankle, with lots of break.

ABOVE: Last but not least: above the ankle, with an extra wide cuff.

Junya Watanbe also had a couple very interesting suggestions for pant hems; I’ll show you those tomorrow.


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  1. victoria

    September 6, 2011 at 4:22 pm

    The top is always so fun and youthful … timeless.

  2. Nikki

    September 6, 2011 at 4:42 pm

    Hemed pants is always a way to tell if a man is well put together. I prefer the top two, however I’m fond of the cuff, especially on cyclists.

  3. www.metalclayjewellery.com

    September 6, 2011 at 4:46 pm

    Classic, and little sport.

  4. Bohemain Style

    September 6, 2011 at 5:08 pm

    Love the purple bag.


  5. Kacie

    September 6, 2011 at 5:25 pm

    It’s hitting the hundreds here in Oregon (finally). Yesterday was the first swimsuit day all summer! Apparently we are going to be a season behind! Love the cuffed pants!


  6. George S.

    September 6, 2011 at 5:38 pm

    I’m definitely in the middle camp. Floods look silly to me and no break is just slightly wrong, though it can work on some.

  7. Mike

    September 6, 2011 at 5:44 pm

    PLEASE, not #1 or #3. I’m so sick of this above the shoe stuff.

  8. The Pilgrim

    September 6, 2011 at 6:05 pm

    Interesting, I was also starting to think about fall shopping (though still around 90º here in Madrid) and was in the mood for smarter pants but wanted them to have a little edge. That is if I pull myself together to hemming them (yeah, I do it myself… ) intead of just rolling them up as usual, though #3 could do the trick.

  9. WonkyWalrus

    September 6, 2011 at 6:28 pm

    That last pair of shoes are righteous. Too bad the white would probably be brown/grey within a week.

  10. Liz

    September 6, 2011 at 6:38 pm

    Love the different pant hem options. Looks really nice !


  11. antique engagement rings

    September 6, 2011 at 6:45 pm

    Love the shoes.. and love the fall season!

  12. Les

    September 6, 2011 at 7:01 pm

    Watching as the recent favorite of “no break, to the ankle” (a fine choice) has crept up the leg and is morphing towards what will soon be 3/4 length is absolutely horrifying and should be stopped immediately. Thick hems just lack class (as well as looking unfinished), especially on a pair of slim pants.

    Working in a store well known for its tailored garments I strongly advise men to just say no to showing any leg when it comes to hemming a good pair of pants. You’ll thank yourself in a few years when looking back on the photos that you didn’t fall prey to this gross fashion faux pas masquerading as a trend.

  13. Hillary

    September 6, 2011 at 7:32 pm

    I love the hems at the top and bottom and wish that I was in the mood to do some fall shopping, but it’s 90º in L.A. today! Ugh.


  14. Nina

    September 6, 2011 at 7:37 pm

    Fall is by far my favorite season; I cannot wait to start piling on the knits. Those shoes are so great #wishtheyhadwomensversions


  15. Lauren

    September 6, 2011 at 7:56 pm

    I’m a fan of slim and at the ankle with no break.

    The Styleseer

  16. Clara Turbay

    September 6, 2011 at 8:00 pm

    Great selection! again.

  17. Meredith Howard

    September 6, 2011 at 8:52 pm

    I like the one with lots of break. The other 2 look strange to me on most men.

    - Meredith

  18. PammieTaj

    September 6, 2011 at 9:03 pm

    I say either of the first two, but for Heaven’s sake, wear socks. Naked man ankles are just too … provocative!

  19. Donnie

    September 6, 2011 at 9:55 pm

    Until I read your post, I never thought that someone fretted about a hem as much as I (: After many years, my tailor automatically knows where I like my hem–right at the top of the shoe with minimal break. For me, took much of a break looks sloppy.

  20. ian

    September 6, 2011 at 10:10 pm

    good to see several options presented. i am in favor of just wearing what looks good on oneself regardless of fashion dictates. love the shoes, but i think they’ll probably end up like the square toes from the 90′s; very dated in a couple of years.

  21. Sheena

    September 6, 2011 at 10:12 pm

    Dear Sartorialist,
    if you are asking our opinion. I think the first option would give you a longer and leaner look as compared to the other 2. What do you say ?

  22. Fotautomat

    September 6, 2011 at 10:29 pm

    I love the more alternative length ones (above the ankle!!) – fantastic to show off a little sock action!


  23. beyourstyle.it

    September 6, 2011 at 11:13 pm

    What cut!

  24. ADJ

    September 6, 2011 at 11:24 pm

    I too am feeling inspired by the weather. I am ready for jackets, blazers, sweaters, and closed shoes. Let’s see how far we get before it becomes a cool 90 in the shade again!


  25. Jeremy

    September 6, 2011 at 11:46 pm

    I have my suits hemmed like the top pair, with similarly slim tapered legs.

    The hem of the pants is actually my favorite part of a suit. (The width of the lapels are a close second.)

  26. Kim

    September 7, 2011 at 12:41 am

    Hey, guys~ just wondering what the Sartorialist means by ‘break,’
    (“ABOVE: Slim, and right at the ankle, no BREAK”)
    anyone knows?

  27. blue roses

    September 7, 2011 at 12:43 am

    the wide cuff is so pretentiously simple, i love it, and i hate it.

    burberry is so fastidiously wonderful.


  28. Larissa

    September 7, 2011 at 12:55 am

    # 2 ! and the mustard jacket is so chic!

  29. sam

    September 7, 2011 at 1:14 am

    number 2 for sure. 3 looks silly. 1 is OK but better for a Matt Smith/Dr. Who look than a tailored pants look.

  30. Albert

    September 7, 2011 at 1:46 am

    The summer is over…
    Flannel pants, wool herringbone jackets, scarves, corduroy pants, thicker wool and cashmere suits and more…

    Fall Season is great!

  31. une chatte grise

    September 7, 2011 at 2:32 am

    I vote for option 2. The first look is tricky; the proportions of hem length, wearer’s leg length, & leg opening have to be just right for it to look good, I think. The third look is just kind of silly. Look 2, however, works on almost everyone, reads as less “calculated” than look 1, and is classically cool.

    @ Kim–”Break” refers to the crease that forms at the bottom of a pants leg when the front of the cuff or leg opening hits the top of the wearer’s foot. “No break” means that the pants hang straight to the shoe because the front of the cuff/leg opening barely brushes the top of the foot (i.e. the pants are relatively short); “lots of break” means that the pants “crumple” at the bottom.

    At risk of making a bad pun, the break can make or break a pair of trousers. I know a seriously punk-rock guy who was near tears when his favorite pair of trousers was stolen from a laundromat–they had, he swore, the Platonic ideal of break and made him feel like Cary Grant (albeit Grant with an electric guitar) when he wore them.

  32. ernø

    September 7, 2011 at 3:05 am

    Slim is perfect !

  33. Erica

    September 7, 2011 at 4:32 am

  34. Boris

    September 7, 2011 at 4:36 am

    J’adore ses chaussurers !!!

  35. Thesecretcloset

    September 7, 2011 at 4:47 am

    Oh no! You just reminded me how much I hate shopping for trousers!!!

  36. Collecting..

    September 7, 2011 at 5:07 am

    We like these. Ooooh..

  37. Simone

    September 7, 2011 at 6:07 am

    I strongly prefer the first one, maybe with a touch of italian style (just add a 1.8″ cuff).

  38. Dimitra

    September 7, 2011 at 6:14 am

    My favourite is the second. The third just doesn’t look good in my opinion.


  39. clarity enhanced diamonds

    September 7, 2011 at 7:00 am

    I love the first pair of shoes!

  40. WalterZ

    September 7, 2011 at 7:57 am

    Hem length is just one factor and is not the whole story. Shortness of the pant is really driven by how tapered the leg is. The more tapered the leg, the shorter the hem can be without looking funny. If you have wide legged pants and a no-break, at the ankle hem, you will generally look ridiculous.

  41. Pusat Tas Branded Impor

    September 7, 2011 at 8:00 am


  42. Emily

    September 7, 2011 at 8:01 am

    I love autumn too – winter clothes just look so much better! No break though, or if you do, wear socks…I’m not a fan of mankle cleavage (although I am sure yours are lovely).

  43. Cecilia

    September 7, 2011 at 8:18 am

  44. Rosa

    September 7, 2011 at 8:29 am

    Last one not my type but first one is gorgeous


  45. My Styleadvisor

    September 7, 2011 at 8:56 am

    I like option number 2. But if I were you, I’d go with the first!

  46. psh

    September 7, 2011 at 11:19 am

    everything so nice…
    each has thier own something.
    a thing can’t win over another thing.

  47. Vooss Atelier

    September 7, 2011 at 11:26 am

    We love the hemed pants suggestions. Very classy!

  48. Marcel Da Chump

    September 7, 2011 at 2:29 pm

    For me, there’s a correlation between hem break and shoe style: They should complement each other.

  49. Lucia

    September 7, 2011 at 3:41 pm

    Kim, I think he means no wrinkle, like in the second, with ” No break” am I right. The fabric falls straight down. The second looks great I think. The third looks silly, the first one is cool too. I would go for 1 or 2. Number 3 only if you are really tall, and trendy, not so classy.

  50. Elisa Eymery

    September 7, 2011 at 4:19 pm

    Once again, thank you for your legendary attention to detail! I must admit that I rarely pay attention to subtle touches such as trousers lengths – especially on men’s catwalks – as I usually get captivated by the overall silhouette. But I love when someone points out these things to me, very inspiring somehow!


  51. David

    September 7, 2011 at 4:40 pm

    Kim: See this link for a complete description of the different types of traditional breaks. Anything else is “trendy” and won’t look right in a few years. Those short pants with the big cuffs look ridiculous already!


  52. pensive

    September 8, 2011 at 12:19 am

    Count me in as forever and always a fan of the big break. Massive break. Almost looking like you never got around to having them hemmed size break.

    I think it is a correlation to my wrist fixation. Wrists are incredibly sexy, and I always want a wee bit to show. Ankles, perhaps, take it too far for me. I do adore these conversations about detail. They make walking the streets more fun.

  53. Made To Measure Shirt

    September 8, 2011 at 10:27 am

    Complete dressing is looking perfect.

  54. Xênia Virginie

    September 8, 2011 at 11:14 am

    I love the first shoes!!!!!

  55. Dom Hook

    September 8, 2011 at 12:02 pm

    I’ve personally see that black shoes in Milan last sunday and I don’t like. The soles is horrible, looks completely misplaced and disproportionate.

  56. Caroline

    September 8, 2011 at 12:45 pm

    I never thought about the importance of pant hems for guys earlier. Thanks for widening my perspective.

  57. art deco engagement rings

    September 9, 2011 at 11:07 pm

    I also love the purple bag… very cool!

  58. Harry

    September 10, 2011 at 8:02 pm

    yeaahh, prefer the 1st look I think

  59. Audrey

    September 13, 2011 at 9:00 pm

    I love those loafers… Very reminiscent of the Dr. Martens tassel loafers, which are no longer available in smooth black or brown leather (much to my dismay.)

  60. Preben

    September 14, 2011 at 4:46 am

    Love the shoes, what label is it?

  61. Namrata

    April 3, 2013 at 6:49 am

    Just sometimes when I see such awesome shoes, I wish I was a guy!


  62. revivaclinic

    August 18, 2014 at 6:01 am

    I love the stylish shoes.

  63. revivaivf

    November 14, 2014 at 11:54 pm

    That is good collection of shoes…

  64. lotuspa

    October 20, 2018 at 2:04 am

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  65. iww manjot

    January 1, 2019 at 4:47 am

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