Wednesday, January 30, 2008

On the Street…The Shorter Shape Of Outerwear


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  1. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 8:05 am

    Great Belt on photo #2

  2. odilean

    January 30, 2008 at 8:11 am

    The hound stooth and checker combined on the second man, with delicate lines of red and bold navy and gold peeking through is perfect. It is a nice way to mix patterns for those of us opposed to the Etro look. These men are so stylish that they are burning a hole through my computer screen.

  3. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 8:15 am

    Like the upper one. He looks like a nice guy. The other one is …

  4. Shatha

    January 30, 2008 at 8:21 am

    Ahh..I love the trenchcoat look, but these look fabulous, especially since they were able to pull off such large pockets. I’m especially liking the bottom look – the detail on the jacket is fantastic, the scarf is thrown so sophisticatedly,and the belt just kicks ass. Nice.

  5. Benedict

    January 30, 2008 at 8:36 am

    Not sure about this trend… it’s a little bulky for my liking, although the outfits are very well put together.

    • Simone Fraser

      May 16, 2014 at 8:14 pm

      I get what you mean but what I enjoy it as a post-modern take on the aviator look in the first part of the 20th century. All he needs is a pair of goggles. The cloth looks like quality. Though I would personally prefer a slimmer cur trouser.


    January 30, 2008 at 8:36 am

    I love the grey ones! What an attitude, kudos!

  7. Alice Olive

    January 30, 2008 at 8:48 am

    Ruggedly fabulous! Love the bulky layering.

  8. David

    January 30, 2008 at 8:49 am

    I like the mix of patterns in the second one and the scarf, but the contrast of a very bulky jacket with oversized side-pockets makes his legs look too skinny and out of proportion. It’s top heavy without balance.

    The first guy’s jacket is not so bulky and the cargo pants add balance. I think to pull it off you need wider pants and probably some pretty chunky boots or shoes.

  9. momo

    January 30, 2008 at 9:01 am

    Two seriously good-looking men! Too bad the windchill where I live will be -45 this morning–this look won’t be possible on the street for another few months!

  10. Butch

    January 30, 2008 at 9:16 am

    Top: terrific layering.

    Not sure that the wee jacket would work without the vest, but it’s a desriable item, nonetheless….

  11. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 9:24 am

    why is an apparenly grown man wearing cargo pants? Am i the only one here who thinks men should dress like men and not junior-high kids emulating Hollywood slobs? As Marcello Mastorianni(who is curiously absent from all the reverential treatment given Cary Grant et al) said: “When the whole world is elegant, then I will dress like a bum.”

  12. maedchen

    January 30, 2008 at 9:30 am

    i like their jackets! they look somehow manly in a sophisticated way, reminds me of a pilot from the 1930es. how is this type of jacket called?

  13. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 9:38 am

    Sart, tell me those aren’t cargo pants I see featured on these pages?? Never thought I’d see the day, but I suppose the focus was to be on the top part? Well, guy on top picture does not look good but bottom picture dude looks like the guy all women want, manly but still soft touches (scarf), and he is rocking that look big time-coat’s fantastic.


  14. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 9:57 am


  15. emma

    January 30, 2008 at 10:06 am

    it wouldn’t be the same without the moleskine in his left hand…!

  16. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 10:09 am

    The second one is brilliant.

  17. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 10:10 am

    Wow – both men look fabulous and rich rich rich. How to look both put together and sporty to the max!

  18. bannäna

    January 30, 2008 at 10:10 am

    …and a moleskine by his side…

  19. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 10:13 am

    I have a soft spot in my heart for the 1980s, which these seem to echo. The difference here, I think, is better tailoring, more distinctive pockets and pleasing fabric. As good as these guys look, it’s unclear whether they will stand the test of time as durably as more classic outerwear has.

  20. tintin

    January 30, 2008 at 10:14 am

    I’m partial to the 1st pic. The jacket echos the Ike Jacket worn by National Park Rangers and copied from the WWII Class A jacket made famous by Eisenhower.

    The layering above the waist evokes a body armour look from Vietnam or Iraq.

    Th jungle fatigue pants look authentic and hail from the late 60s to mid 70s. I pray he didn’t blouse jungle boots.

  21. Ciaofrommilan

    January 30, 2008 at 10:18 am

    hey: welcome back “Kalashnikov” Calascibetta, fashion guru of Corriere della Sera Style Magazine and top purveyor of sartorialist wonderment (sart aficionados should remember the “marlboro mickey mouse” yellow gloves stunt last winter)

    as always, Alessandro is showing the way here. also: nice impersonation of the Zoolander “Blue Steel” look here. done in dark brown, of course, to go along with that brilliant scarf. bravo bravissimo!

  22. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 10:24 am

    Looks like something out of a shop window. Too ‘put together’.

    Are they modeling for the photos?

  23. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 10:28 am

    I love the top shot. It’s just beautifully composed.

  24. a. fanny

    January 30, 2008 at 10:47 am

    Those are some big-ass pockets. I love going through pockets. I wonder what I’d find in there?

  25. bluejeanamy

    January 30, 2008 at 10:49 am

    love a short winter coat with bulk. delish.

  26. McTickle

    January 30, 2008 at 10:52 am

    Real men don’t wear skin tight pants. These guys are cool.

  27. Mona

    January 30, 2008 at 11:26 am

    i love them both, especially the one up top paired with the quilted vest. is that part of the coat or separate i wonder? just bought a coat with an attached vest inside…love it.

  28. Thomas

    January 30, 2008 at 11:58 am

    Yes, the pockets on the bottom coat are warming my cold, cynical heart, and carried off with such panache! Of course, the ubiquitous moleskine he is carrying helps to “complete” the look.

  29. Phineas

    January 30, 2008 at 12:10 pm

    The detailing on the coat in the upper image is bliss.

    And I love the rugged, casual aesthetic of the lower coat, paired with an otherwise sensibly slick ensemble. It’s also interesting to note that the sharkskin runs more in the blue hues (which works wonderfully with the indigo sweater) but the jacket pulls out the browns of the scarf, creating harmony where, in my opinion, you ould otherwise have a rather sour note of dissonance.

  30. Laguna Beach Trad

    January 30, 2008 at 12:26 pm

    Great photos, Sart. I like both men’s jackets. Note the quilted jacket/vest and turtleneck sweater on the guy in the top photo. He looks cold. When I was at school, we called short jackets such as these ‘bum-freezers’ because they left one’s bum exposed to the cold. I love the scarf on the gentleman in the bottom photo. Very nice.

  31. MayaS

    January 30, 2008 at 12:36 pm

    Wow, the second guy – great outfit (love that belt!) and a fabulous picture. He looks dangerous…in a good way. First one – great everything except the cargo pants.

  32. AdamfromVA

    January 30, 2008 at 12:50 pm

    top photo: not feeling it
    bottom photo: love it, chic and so grown up

  33. morty

    January 30, 2008 at 1:16 pm

    Yes,I have seen men in similar outfits,ok I guess.But I´m a little worried about the material seen lately- it´s depressing and not so nice.I suppose it is real stuff,but please send us something on which the eye can rest for a change.

  34. Kofi Anon

    January 30, 2008 at 1:18 pm

    For a shorter guy like me, I like it.

  35. Austin

    January 30, 2008 at 1:19 pm

    i feel like the moleskine makes it all seem contrived,, but i just bought myself my first one for christmas, so maybe i’m overly aware. #2 made me kind of frown, but the pockets on his coat are so awesome it saves his whole one-photo-impression.

  36. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 1:29 pm

    While I enjoy both these outfits, they make me realize how much I like shoulders. “Don’t it always seem to go/ that you don’t know what you’ve got till it’s gone.”

  37. LSDeeDee

    January 30, 2008 at 1:46 pm

    Two very sexy slightly older men. They look like tailored, real-life Indiana Jones’. Esp. the top man….he looks ready to jump in his bi-plane and save the world. I love this look – It reminds me of my Father, who used to dress exceptionally well.

  38. Pam

    January 30, 2008 at 1:51 pm

    I love the first picture in particular. Great look!

  39. miss cavendish

    January 30, 2008 at 1:57 pm

    The second photo is just gorgeous. From the glower to the belt buckle. And the tweed and wool in between.

  40. miss cavendish

    January 30, 2008 at 1:58 pm

    Here’s another style quirk: I do not like short jackets on men. They always look as if they need to be pulled down, to have a couple extra inches of fabric added.

  41. lis

    January 30, 2008 at 2:15 pm

    I love the first photo – the guy looks warm and rugged, the location is cool and elegant – it’s a sexy mix.

  42. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 2:16 pm

    I love the bloke on the top’s jacket and outfit. Very cool. If I saw him on the street in that get up, he would get a big smile and thumbs up from me.

  43. jessieleigh

    January 30, 2008 at 2:18 pm

    That second gentleman is amazing. A little creepy, yes, but amazing. You know he wants you to think he rolled out of bed, slapped on his trousers and coat, grabbed his moleskine and ran out the door.

    Loves it.

  44. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 2:22 pm

    (Second Photo) The belt and pleat in the pants is so damn James Dean. I love it.

  45. Sofia

    January 30, 2008 at 2:24 pm

    The top one has the look I just crave in a man. Slicked back hair, a little gray, totally Masculine. Love the earth toned, layered look. Gloves to make it. The wet glimmery streets and angle of the camera is right on! Glad I found your blog from the Newsweek section today! I will be in NY next month and maybe I will wear something fabulous and walk the streets in hopes you are there taking more pics of real people. :)

  46. Lisa

    January 30, 2008 at 2:26 pm

    As many have said so far, The cargo pants are pretty bad. The brown jacket is a bit too short and although the vest does add some good features, it also adds unnecessary bulk to his appearance. He looks like he has no neck, although he’s a much nicer looking model all in all than the man in gray. The brown jacket’s pockets aren’t so ridiculously oversized either. The material on the gray jacket is very nice (As it looks less like a Carhart’s jacket) and the oversized collar adds an interesting shape. Not sure if I like the scarf too much…

  47. Christina

    January 30, 2008 at 2:29 pm

    Love the second look. You’d expect the jacket to be paired with jeans since it has a more casual flair to it (due to the oversized pockets and short length). But pairing it with dress pants and then adding a well draped scarf and eye-catching belt, tranforms the look from casual to chic sophisticated. Though, he must’ve been a bit nervous having you take his picture cuz he seems a bit stern…

  48. Mandi

    January 30, 2008 at 2:29 pm

    I don’t mind the cargo in the first one, I think it fits with his pilot jacket. Also I think his choice of color is excellent with his hair and skin tone…very flattering.

  49. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 2:33 pm

    amazing. i love the sculptural turn in outerwear (i’m also thinking of that gorgeous older woman in the puffer coat).

  50. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 2:46 pm

    bored with the outfits. LOVING the light/composition of the top shot though.

  51. KT

    January 30, 2008 at 2:56 pm

    Both men are very handsome. In the 1st guy’s defense, those aren’t cargo pants; they are fishing pants. The pockets are for all the fishing paraphernalia… the material dries quickly and does a nice job blocking the wind.

  52. spitshine

    January 30, 2008 at 3:02 pm

    c’est sweet. comfortable and stylish not just either or. cargo pants the pants one hates to love.

  53. Laura

    January 30, 2008 at 4:00 pm

    i really don’t like these kind of jackets for men….the 2nd one is better than the 1st but i’m still not sure….it’s the shape maybe.

  54. Hinna Shot Ya

    January 30, 2008 at 4:45 pm

    the belt is too wonderful. and the oversized jacked contrasts beautifully with it…*sigh*

  55. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 4:56 pm

    The man in the upper photo looks quite a bit like Al Gore, in my mind

  56. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 5:08 pm

    very 1920′s pilot..

    add some goggles around the neck and #1 could take me for a ride..


  57. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 5:21 pm

    I don’t hate it, but the first look seems a little costume-y to me. Straight off a movie set – and not in a good way. Although the man is very attractive. Love the belt on #2!

  58. Joyful

    January 30, 2008 at 5:52 pm

    Very dashing indeed.

  59. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 6:09 pm

    cargo pants??? give me a break! no chance they’ll get fashionable anymore. i like the coat, though. is it barbour?

  60. kat

    January 30, 2008 at 6:16 pm

    I love them both, similar jacket structure but both rocking it in very different ways. More men should wear short jackets, you may surprise yourself! I love the 1930s aviator, right down to his fabulous hair, which i think really finishes his look. The second man is dark & chic and beautifully put together.

    And I think the cargo pants are working for the aviator, out of curiosity, without changing the top half what would the cavillers have him wear instead of cargos?

  61. simplyolive

    January 30, 2008 at 7:12 pm

    #2 is fantastic!!
    the color, the details…
    …& the moleskin tops it all off.

  62. m-

    January 30, 2008 at 7:30 pm

    mctickle, “real men” don’t notice the fit of other men’s pants…and also, “real men” don’t read blogs with the word sartorial in it…and also, “real men” don’t put pictures of themselves on someone else’s blog…LOL “real men” youre a joke mctickle.

  63. Sarah

    January 30, 2008 at 9:04 pm

    Who is that man in the second picture? He is an absolutely stunning man. I would love to know what he does for a living.

  64. Anna

    January 30, 2008 at 9:42 pm

    He is so carrying a moleskine!!

  65. Jonathan

    January 30, 2008 at 10:04 pm

    I like what Tintin said above about the military influences; the quilted jacket on the top pic looks like a US Army field jacket liner, but in brown, not green.

    But to really carry that look, you’d need a jacket with a mandarin collar and big pockets on the top, not on the bottom.

  66. Anonymous

    January 30, 2008 at 10:50 pm

    I really like the first jacket, you don’t usually see men like him in cropped jackets, and he looks so handsome!

  67. claire

    January 30, 2008 at 10:52 pm

    Love the way the second outfit was put together, although his expression is scary. Tough guy? Double points if that notebook he’s holding is a mole skin!

  68. Lieutenant Glahn

    January 30, 2008 at 11:44 pm

    The first gentleman: Great face. Perfect hair. Nice scarf and turtleneck sweater. Oops! I forgot to mow the cobblestones. Grab my surplus fatigues from the hamper, throw on my Carhartt quilted jacket liner and J.Peterman Melton Utility Boleroâ„¢ and out the door.

    The second one looks like it was intentionally shot for a GQ Regrets column.

  69. underneath

    January 31, 2008 at 3:19 am

    Two utmost handsome men – Sartorial to the BONE!

  70. Anonymous

    January 31, 2008 at 7:48 am

    Its good to see you gaain Ralph! Always styling! The guy at the bottom….what is that!!! YIKES!!!

  71. MayaS

    January 31, 2008 at 12:23 pm

    Uh, moleskine-shmoleskine… I bought a daily planner this yesr, and while the paper and cover are nice, the design is not that great….not going to buy again, despite Hemingway and all that buzz…

  72. doanything24

    January 31, 2008 at 1:02 pm

    y’know I really love both of these ensembles. The layering is just right and colors nice. The top pic looks like 1940′s bomber– put together beautifully. Love the tie with it!

  73. Anonymous

    January 31, 2008 at 1:38 pm

    Both-guys rock, but second guy is really awesome! love the moleskin on his hand gives him the sensitive touch.

  74. Paul Pincus

    January 31, 2008 at 2:38 pm

    The gentleman in the second photograph is the coolest. A total maverick!

  75. sirrhw

    January 31, 2008 at 9:24 pm

    I would have titled bottom photo “sophisticated badass”, love the look.

  76. Wesley Darling

    January 31, 2008 at 9:33 pm

    Ralph always looks fabulous, doesn’t he?

    Love that filson.


  77. Anonymous

    February 1, 2008 at 2:53 pm

    for all of you dissing his cargo pants, he designed for domenico vacca, i’m sure he knows something about fashion.

    both photos are fabulous, sart.

  78. Anonymous

    February 1, 2008 at 10:25 pm

    Ralph looks sharp per usual (is that italian?)… funny to see him out of the summer white /khaki getup, but I suppose the fatigue greens add a louder shade to his palette. Like how the navyish gloves punctuate the arms there.

  79. Anonymous

    February 1, 2008 at 10:26 pm

    Ralph looks great per usual (is that italian?)… funny to see him out of the summer white /khaki getup, but I suppose the fatigue greens add a louder shade to his palette. Like how the navyish gloves punctuate the arms there.

  80. Keith

    February 7, 2008 at 8:35 pm

    Who the heck are these guys wearing?

  81. Anonymous

    February 9, 2008 at 3:52 am

    The guy in the second photo looks fantastic. I have exactly the same Moncler jacket (though maybe a size more resembling my body, as his seems more large for some reason), yet I hadn’t imagined wearing it like that.

    Great inspiration.

  82. Yioryos

    February 15, 2008 at 4:37 am

    Second photo is wow.. great! perfect!

  83. Anonymous

    February 15, 2008 at 10:07 am

    Wow. What a cool man (second pic)!
    (if I only had that kind of dad ;))

    He really knows how to do it – colours and everything!

  84. Anonymous

    February 18, 2008 at 3:04 am

    i think pilots from the sixties onward look like jackasses, but wartime aviators make me swoon. once again- fatal combination; seriousness and tweed. second only to the other fatal combo; ernestness and tweed.

  85. Salva

    May 13, 2012 at 2:31 pm

    These pants ar obviously not Cargo pants.

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