Wednesday, May 2, 2007

On the Street…Rare – Notch-Lapel DB Suit, Hamburg

Again, not something I would wear but it is great to see him wear it so well.

I love how well everything works together – the smaller collar with that knot, the fold of the pocket square (again rare) and the notch-lapel instead of the more traditional peak-lapel.

This reminds me of Morris Day and The Time.


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  1. Andrew

    May 2, 2007 at 12:49 am

    An interesting look and one that he carries off well, but I am not convinced by the length of the trousers or the shoes (not the colour, but the shape). Surely slightly shorter trousers and some monkstraps (perhaps darkish brown suede) would have worked better?

  2. iopine

    May 2, 2007 at 1:05 am

    I’ve never seen the notch-lapel on a double-breasted. It’s cool. I like the drape and line of the trousers, they work well with the shape of the jacket and the whole thing balances perfectly. The shoes are an unexpected color and I like them a lot. This is a great look–Morris Day and the Time are right on time.

  3. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 1:25 am

    i don’t like the sloppy look after seeing luciano barbera.

  4. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 2:12 am

    the pants are outrageously long, and by any measure they should detract from the look of this suit, but frankly the whole look is so outrageous yet perfectly put together that the droopy, pooling trouser cuffs fit naturally. It’s a bizarre look, frankly, and one which is vaguely reminiscent of the way in which Giorgio Armani mixes different periods and style together in a way that is both chaotic and elegant. The battered brown shoes suggest a more complex story beneath the superficial decadence of the louche DB

  5. Nameless4Now

    May 2, 2007 at 2:30 am

    Wow, talk about sophisticated. I love the pinstripes – they seem to include some variation, like coarser threads of something, that gives them so much life.
    Overall, super-classy!

  6. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 3:59 am

    Boy, do this baggy and loose outfit really makes me more appreciative of Neapolitan tailoring than I already am…

  7. Christopher

    May 2, 2007 at 4:06 am

    Wow. He wears that v. well.

  8. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 5:47 am

    When are you coming to sweden?

  9. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 5:54 am

    Sart, who is this guy? Do you know his story?

    – desertwind

  10. Mary Pat

    May 2, 2007 at 6:18 am

    Might I be the first to say:


  11. blackbird

    May 2, 2007 at 7:23 am

    His shoes could use a shine…

  12. Michael

    May 2, 2007 at 7:31 am

    LOL – Morris Day and the Time. Good one Sart!

  13. Butch

    May 2, 2007 at 7:52 am

    There are, I’m afraid, many no-no’s here: pants are overfull and way too long; “closing” jacket button placement too high; lapels too narrow in relation to the rest…

    …and the shoes need more “weight” to balance the rest…..

  14. Doug

    May 2, 2007 at 8:21 am

    Looks like the suit’s too big for him. Colours go well.

  15. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 8:32 am

    hmmm…looks slouchy to me

  16. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 8:45 am

    I don’t think I care for this. The first detail looks okay in isolation, but it doesn’t come together overall.

  17. Alice Olive

    May 2, 2007 at 9:03 am

    I love the first photo of this guy. Amid the graffiti and ‘chaos’, he is impeccably groomed. Great photo! (And I love his shoes.)

  18. Muddy

    May 2, 2007 at 9:07 am

    looking at this image makes me wish that kuala lumpur isn’t always so humid; it just doesn’t work in tropical heat to my dismay.

  19. Doctor Damage

    May 2, 2007 at 9:27 am

    I understand you enthusiasm, Scott, but it’s originating in the colours and the pattern of the suit, not the design. Notch lapel DBs are not recommended. If you saw one in a plain white or cream cloth, without the pinstripes, tie, and pocket cloth to your distract attention, the failure of the design would be evident (the lack of balance between the lapels and front overlap). Do a line drawing on paper and you’ll see what I mean. DD.

  20. Lit

    May 2, 2007 at 10:50 am

    A fantastic suit and well pulled-together by those shoes, which are marvellous. But is it me or are the pants a little baggy? Yes I see that it might be a call-back to the 50′s gangster era, but imagine if he were in slimmer pants, he’d look even better and I’m not just saying that because it’s trendy.

  21. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 10:51 am

    The notch may be rare but the suit is simply not becoming.

    A double breasted jacket loses its panache without bold peak lapels, as amply illustrated here.

    The fold over of the jacket is too high for this fellow’s apparent stature; it shortens his torso.

    The jacket and trousers appear ill fitting throughout; too much excess material, too many odd folds here and there.

    The trousers really let the fellow down; too long, too baggy and with no cuffs, they just don’t fit him properly and detract from what should be a crisp, elegant grey DB.

    Finally, the shoes appear scuffed, square toed and the wrong shade of brown and just not suitable for a serious pinstriped DB suit such as this; they really belie that the model is just at the beginning of his sartorial education. He needs to spend a bit more on the right type of shoe; unfortunately expenditure on shoes is often the last area the budding sartorialist will venture; though I am sure that he will eventually realize their supreme importance in the overall appearance and a man dressed for business.

    Having said that, he is succeeding with the color schemes of brown and grey shown in the tie, pocket square and suit which is a nice, sophisticated palette to work with. UC

  22. JO

    May 2, 2007 at 11:02 am

    He does remind me of the The Time! What wonderful memories you just brought back for me… Morris Day was a style icon.

  23. Resplendato

    May 2, 2007 at 11:03 am

    These days for every DB suit you see 10 SB’s. I really like his look. It’s the subtle differences that make it special.


    May 2, 2007 at 11:09 am

    hi just checked you out today as your on so many people’s blog lists. i thought i’d check out your blog…and it was cheers

  25. Heather

    May 2, 2007 at 11:49 am

    How do you like Hamburg? From the photos, it looks like it has some eastern european influence on the fashions. What do you think? What’s the vibe of the city? Would you recommend it for a vacation?

  26. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 12:00 pm


    Do you like double-breasted suits ?

    I’ve never been a big fan , but this pic is great

  27. siongc

    May 2, 2007 at 12:09 pm

    I really like how the colours, textures and fit come together on top, but the baggy pants make him look a little on the short side, which he probably isn’t. My preference would be for a more bootcut fit.

  28. Anna, 18, Sweden

    May 2, 2007 at 12:16 pm

    Hi Sartorialist!
    I want to thank you for being the absolute best style inspiration there is! And I choose the word “style” instead of fashion – you deliver so much more than fashion, you give true inspiration for eternal style. “The Sartorialist” has opened a new visual world for me and I am very grateful!
    I read you are coming to Sweden! When and where? So I know where to show up looking my best :) We are proud to have you, and we are proud of our fashion. Hope you enoy your stay!

  29. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 12:59 pm

    Looks like Tobey Maguire’s older brother. Seriously though, the suit is not fitted well. Pants too long.

  30. Sempre Libera

    May 2, 2007 at 1:19 pm

    What a fantastic picture, Sart. I’m imagining that cartoon character on the wall behind him as his impish inner child… they’re sort of looking at you the same way :-)

  31. anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 1:24 pm

    Maybe it’s just a matter of individual taste, but the fit seems a bit sack-like to me, with the trousers too wide for his overall shape & build. Maybe no pleats would be better. I do like the collar on the shirt.

    Morris Day ist auf Berlin, definitely.

  32. Deja Pseu

    May 2, 2007 at 1:27 pm

    Sart, I’ve been loving the contrasts between your subjects and the backgrounds. Love the man in the nice suit against the graffiti in this one, and the very modern looking woman posing next to what looks like a very old building in the pic below. It’s a nice touch! I don’t know if it’s deliberate or just serendipity, but it works.

  33. Jennine

    May 2, 2007 at 1:33 pm

    i love this. i don’t know much about men’s clothing, but the patterns are lovely… it’s really subtle and very intriguing.

  34. Phoebe

    May 2, 2007 at 1:59 pm

    I like everything to some extent, except for the length of the pant leg. It’s far too long, thus making him look short with the material bunched up at his ankles. On a side note, the suit looks rather 1920′s gangster.

  35. The Sartorialist

    May 2, 2007 at 2:59 pm

    To Anon 10:51 am

    I think you are completely missing the point of this whole look – it is about fun and trying something different not about going to a job interview.

    This photo was taken in a very young trendy area with lots of vintage stores and cafes. For him to even be wearing a suit around there is a great statement.

    this suit and his look are about attitude and he has it in spades.

  36. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 4:08 pm

    Notch lapels on a double-breasted suit haven’t been seen too often of late, but in the ’20s and ’30s they were more common. The peak lapel was always much more popular, but the notch was still an option. If you watch a lot of old movies from the time period, you seem them fairly often.

  37. Cut of cloth

    May 2, 2007 at 5:57 pm

    Its interesting to see this particular style of dress against the graffiti background. His look could be as comfortable 50 years ago… from his hair style to the cut of hiss suit…

  38. SartoriallyAddicted

    May 2, 2007 at 7:28 pm

    Now we know why DB’s are made with peak lapels.

  39. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 8:06 pm

    Morris Day and The Time…

    … So far away…

    … So smart…

  40. Jen

    May 2, 2007 at 8:34 pm

    Something about the look on his face combined with the way he’s dressed, just leaves me with an uneasy feeling. It’s unsettling.

  41. Asian Models Blogger

    May 2, 2007 at 11:35 pm

    Love the look except for the 1950′s style baggy pants. It made the otherwise, sharp suit look costumey.

  42. Anonymous

    May 2, 2007 at 11:54 pm

    this look is awesome, very old-style glamour, yet he manages to make it look modern. He looks so good. Different good.

  43. Anonymous

    May 3, 2007 at 3:14 am

    To The Sart:
    Regarding the listing order of peoples’ comments…..can you sort them so that the MOST RECENT comes first rather than last….?

    Just a suggestion to improve the Blog.

    Great job, keep it up!

  44. Anonymous

    May 3, 2007 at 10:01 am

    I can see and appreciate many of the details — the color scheme, and the balanced proportions of lapel, collar and tie, but overall, I still don’t like it.

    NL DB’s may have a historical precedent, even here in Williamsburg Brooklyn where we wear all sorts of crazy stuff, this look is still too far off-course for me.

  45. Jonathon

    May 4, 2007 at 6:23 pm

    this is what menswear is all about (I’m sure some people will cringe, but its true)…god is in the details!

    this guys sharp!

  46. Anonymous

    May 13, 2007 at 12:24 am

    most recent comments are better last, not first. the current format is good, keep it.

    i too have never seen a notch db…interesting.

  47. Realistico

    October 1, 2012 at 11:41 am

    Hmmm…Don’t share the enthusiasm at all. The suit just doesn’t fit, the pants are way too large and too long. The shirt collar should never be seen in full but hide under the lapel of the jacket. Not to mention that a slim tie never works with a db.

  48. Lea

    March 9, 2014 at 12:01 pm

    Men got powerful when they’re using DB suits

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