Saturday, November 5, 2005

Is It A Rule If No One Knows About It?

I’ve heard that it is a “rule” of menswear that a double-breasted jacket should ALWAYS remained buttoned. Unfortunately no one seems to have told some of New York’s most stylish men. Personally I don’t think it is a big deal but some guys get really worked up about it. Does wearing a vest make the rule null and void or is it a worse offense to wear a vest with a DB jacket?


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  1. Anonymous

    November 6, 2005 at 1:29 am

    The DB jacket must remain buttoned because unfastening the buttons completely destroys the line. (Well-fitted single breasted jackets, when unbuttoned, remain pretty much where they were while fastened.)

  2. Anonymous

    November 8, 2005 at 10:32 pm

    Is that Hamish? And if so, shouldn’t he know better?

  3. Anonymous

    November 9, 2005 at 9:31 pm

    In the 1940s this was completly acceptable as the suits were tailored to remain in line and in fact they were called “drape” suits.

  4. Anonymous

    November 12, 2005 at 10:19 am

    His jacket sleeves are an inch too long so other errors are to be expected.

  5. Solomon Animashaun

    November 20, 2005 at 12:04 pm

    Would you ever leave your laces untied?…….A DB jacket should always be buttoned!

  6. Anonymous

    September 18, 2006 at 4:57 pm

    Not only should a DB jacket always be buttoned, but he shouldn’t be wearing a vest with it. The whole point of a DB is that it acts as both vest and jacket.

  7. Anonymous

    November 16, 2006 at 2:25 am

    No vest with a db jacket. And they look sloppy unbuttoned.

  8. Anonymous

    April 16, 2007 at 10:41 pm

    I love this look unbuttoned or buttoned. It reminds me of old-world Italian style.

  9. Anonymous

    September 2, 2008 at 11:54 pm

    I think it’s saucy.

  10. Anonymous

    July 27, 2009 at 3:37 pm

    Rules only exist so people who are not fashionably oriented have an easier time fumbling in the dark. Do you think Hamish Bowles worries about mixing black and brown? Stop nitpicking.

    Rules aside, his sleeve length is perfect. As a fledgling sartorialist and student tailor, I always aim for my sleeves to hit halfway between the "start" of my hand and the base of my thumb, an inch shorter and he would be exposing a gnarley wrist bone and would be mistaken for one of those Thom Browne fools.

  11. Easy and Elegant Life

    November 12, 2009 at 9:36 am

    The three piece DB was once a staple before central heating. And, it will allow Mr. Bowles to remove his jacket in the office and still be somewhat dressed.

    Me? I can always use more pockets. Would I wear it unbuttoned? Probably not. I look slimmer buttoned up and that is a big point of my tailored clothing.

  12. Anonymous

    May 17, 2011 at 7:18 pm

    Vests are absolutely appropriate with a DB. There is no rule against them and the effect can be quite striking. Take Karl Matthews at A&S: he is almost always in a vested DB and is one of the best dressed men on the Row. One might take issue with the lapels on the vest, but not the vest itself.

    It should be worn buttoned, though, but if you look at pictures of Luca de Montezemolo, you'll see him in unbuttoned DBs. He looks incredible.

  13. Robert

    March 15, 2013 at 9:50 pm

    The whole ‘rule’ issue is an interesting one that sure takes a beating these days. To leave maybe ‘temporarily’ unbuttoned makes no difference to me as I’ve found myself doing the same but, I’m in favor of seeing some shirt cuff….his long suit sleeve is a style glich that makes him look more bumpkinish and like he needs a good tailor.

  14. Edward

    August 23, 2016 at 11:13 am

    I agree that sleeve length should touch the wristbone assuming a french cuff and cufflinks. Otherwise, with barrel cuffs only a quarter inch should show. Of course if you are in Mississippi is does not matter because you’re probably wearing a short-sleeved, permanent press shirt from Wal-Mart under there.

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