Monday, March 20, 2006

Helmut Lang Sold To Link-Theory

Helmut Land has been sold to Link Theory which “has ambitious plans to revive the label on the contemporary level” WWD reports today. A designer for the label has not been named.

Helmut Lang at contemporary price points? That is exactly what we don’t need.

Apparently, Link Theory, which owns the Theory business in Japan, bought the trademark from Prada and plans to use the ” incredible heritage” of the brand to reshape the collection for the contemporary market. Rumor has it that Alexandre Plokhov, of Cloak, could be the new designer.

Sorry, but this sounds like such a bait and switch to me. Like Helmut Lang Lite

A big part of Helmut’s genius was mixing incredible luxurious fabrics like cashmere with utilitarian fabrics like denim, moleskin, or corduroy. This simple cannot be done ,in a real way( if for no other reason than price points), in contemporary departments of department stores or in stores that specialize in contemporary collections.

Recent revivals like Rochas, Lanvin, or even Jil Sander ,at least, kept the label at a designer price point. If the Theory guys see an opportunity at contemporary with a designer like Plokhov then just let him do his thing, don’t try to pass it off as Helmut-inspired.

If Helmut ,himself, comes back, can I ever look at the new collection without wondering what could have been included if he were allowed to work at a higher price point?

The only Helmut-ish items that can be reshaped at that price point are very basic, isn’t APC already doing it anyway?


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  1. Anonymous

    March 20, 2006 at 11:29 am

    Not only would it be “Helmut Lite”, but the overall line would probably be influenced in the end by Andrew Rosen and no matter who designs it, it will end up looking like some version of Theory and we all know what a bore that is.
    I’ll keep with my original stash of Helmuts and wear them until I can buy new ones designed by the master himsel!

  2. alexandre

    March 20, 2006 at 3:17 pm

    I agree you always dread you will have your creative spark squashed by your overbearing backer.

  3. sarno

    March 21, 2006 at 9:09 pm

    helmut lang without helmut lang is pointless. so is jil sander without jil. so would prada be without miucca. lang’s style was too quirky to become a signature “look.” and far fewer people, in the price point arena theory presently targets, know who the hell lang is, or was.

  4. Anonymous

    March 21, 2006 at 10:57 pm

    What DO you think of plokhov doing the line?
    Would you buy it, if were good?
    To the previous comment, what point would there be in producing a line for an audience who doesn’t even know who Helmut IS? Do you think it would help if they didn’t know who he was?
    Is it a new audience?
    I think if Plokhov is going to do a contemporary line, he should just do a cheaper vesion of Cloak.
    What do you think of Cloak and how would that translate into Helmut Lang anyawy?

  5. Anonymous

    March 21, 2006 at 11:02 pm

    I wonder if Helmut will actually return to the arena.
    Does link Theory own his name?
    Can you imagine him doing another line under another name?
    What a split in the market that would be: fake Helmut at contemporary prices and the real thing under another name!

  6. Anonymous

    September 22, 2006 at 7:21 pm

    You know, I still have not recovered from the demise of Helmut Lang. Any news as to potential continuation under a different name??

    Woman in Richmond, VA

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