Well, I think these suits are being worn well, so I am ‘getting i,’ now, despite disliking TB’s suits on the man himself (sorry-sorry-sorry!)
This blog has always encompassed discussing opinions, with all their intricacies, which makes it equally fun and fascinating!
I do like the look of the man on the left in the second photo.
“Nerds…these guys used to get beat up in school. Didn’t learn their lesson?” – Yeah that’s mature. Maybe the ‘nerds’ just hadn’t developed their sense of style yet. None of the people I know who dress really well were overtly ‘cool’ people in school.
Thom Browne is like man couture. It gives a particular vision but the execution is beautifully done. The workmanship on Thom Browne is great, your not going to see that at Brooks Brothers boys department.
How will Thom evolve? Only he knows what is next, I do think he has to begin thinking about what his next “statement look” will be but that is part of the fun and dance that is fashion.
The label is so much a part of TB. It’s a part of the charm of the clothes and look. TB hand writes the name of the collection (fall ’06)place of purchase and on occasion the name of the buyer. it’s also a way of conveying that the designer is involved and touches every piece. It does make the statement that the product is about hand craftsmanship.
I also believe think it’s in the TB Man rulebook…never remove the label..I think it’s page 14.
So did this guy twist his scarf so that the camera would catch the label? I’m sorry, but the signature of a Thom Brown piece comes in the cut and scale of the tailoring to the body, not a tag on a scarf. I can see the label being an important part of his suits and other signature pieces, but that scarf is Banana Republic at best. The collegiate stripes sort of speak to the youthful oafishness of the suit, but here it adds absolutely nothing to this guys personal style – It just says “Everything I’m wearing is TB, just check out the tag on my scarf!” I say lose the tag. Shall we all put it to a vote?
Thom Browne’s suits do not make me look good. My personal aesthetic just doesn’t go there… yet. But I can appreciate his vision.
However, his influence is already being felt in men’s fashion – pants are more fitted and getting shorter, waistlines are getting higher. Perhaps jackets will not be cut so extreme as TBs, but slowly, his proportions are already creeping into mainstream fashion. Consider it couture for men, and when it gets reinterpreted for more mainstream tastes as couture often does, people may not know to acknowledge his hand in the innovations. But TB really doesn’t care if everyone gets it – that would make it mass market. And he’s definitely not addressing the hoi polloi who don’t get it.
Not everyone can afford nor pull off a couture gown. Not every man can carry of a Carol Christian Poell outfit. Not every man can carry a full Yohji ensemble. But the people who can and the people who appreciate them are a select few than those particular designers address. The same goes for Thom Browne’s suits. They’re not for everybody.
Hedi Slimane was cool in the beginning when he did YSL. It was an underground thing, with much whispering among the fashionista crowds about the super-fitted, unforgivingly tight suits quietly flying off the racks of the Rive Gauche store in Soho, with that much-missed enormous red rhino sculpture in the middle of all those fabulous clothes. The general public who couldn’t wrap their tastes around that extreme new look scoffed. Cut to a few years later and now, in Dior Homme, Hedi’s as much Mass Luxury as Tom Ford was in his Gucci heyday, a look that most can recognize as “cool.” It’s a signal that ironically spells its death knell for those fashion forward who don’t want to be part of the herd. It’s a cycle of scorn, secret appreciation and eventual fall-from-grace that happens over and over again. It IS Fashion, after all. Thom Browne seems to be at the forefront of a new cycle.