Sunday, January 8, 2006

Thom Browne

Thom Browne was robbed. He definitely should have won the CFDA award.

Whether you like his style or not he is the the most important young menswear designer in New York. Thom is at the fore front of a new retail niche; Sartorial Designer Menswear.
This new niche will offer super high end quality but with a fashion edge that will allow stores to bridge them between ,say, Borrelli/Kiton and Dior/Marc Jacobs.

Tom Ford and Michael Bastian (formerly of Bergdorf) will also soon be in this segment, I hear even Luciano Barbera is retooling their collection to bring a younger hipper edge to their offerings.

I can’t wait to se how he evolves, he has already created a signature look (some designers take years too find theirs) that he can spread across all the new categories he introduces.

I also like that he is an American designer that has based his look in traditional American design without losing its edge or ability to be exported around the world. He is teaching an entire new generation why JFK was so cool.


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  1. Anonymous

    January 8, 2006 at 9:31 pm

    why is he dressed so terribly in that picture?

  2. F.A.

    January 9, 2006 at 12:30 am

    and he’s nice to look at on top of it all.

  3. Homme

    January 9, 2006 at 12:46 am

    Thom Browne Rocks!

  4. Anonymous

    January 9, 2006 at 6:33 am

    I notice that the jacket is tight where the first button closes. Women’s jackets are also being shown (and worn) this way. I am not sure I understand this. The sleeves also look a bit short.

    How are jackets supposed to fit? I remember Kennedy (yes, I am that old)and his jackets did not fit like this.

    I enjoy this blog.

  5. Anonymous

    January 9, 2006 at 7:53 am

    It looks like his suit is to small all around. It looks to tight, and both the jacket and pants look to small. Is this whats in style now?

  6. Anonymous

    January 9, 2006 at 9:13 am

    “Hey pal….floods over!”
    Basically, he looks ridiculous. Like the biggest geek to walk the earth. I’m suprised you think that is stylish at all. That is not style, that is stupidity. Clothes have to fit, be comfortable, and look good. This outfit has none of those qualities. Anybody who wastes his money buying this junk is a fool. Thomas Mahon would cut himself with Mr Sheppard’s shears laughing at this getup.

  7. J Castillo

    January 9, 2006 at 9:57 am

    Thom Browne did Kiefer Sutherland’s clothes in the movie “Stay.” And yes he wore Browne’s distinctive short-short pants.

    Anyway, one of the critics who reviewed the movie wrote that the movie never really explained the reason Suhterland’s character wore such bizarrely short pants.

  8. Enloe 1

    January 9, 2006 at 10:00 am

    I’m surprised Mr. Browne is wearing socks. Oftentimes he and his models sport suits and dress shoes — but no socks.

  9. The Sartorialist

    January 9, 2006 at 10:19 am

    if seen guys in Thom Browne suits with heavy black shoes and discreet ,mostly hidden, footies.

  10. Anonymous

    January 9, 2006 at 11:25 am

    Forrest Gump reincarnated…;-)

  11. Otto

    January 9, 2006 at 11:49 am


    I think this is a wonderful look.
    For other men.
    I hope it gets popular.

    The way I look I need every advantage. The more men dress like that the better for me.

    Imagine all the laughs folks will have ten years on when they look at old pictures of themselves!

    And it’s made from excellent fabric. How about a $100K hand built, carbon-fiber Yugo to drive around in?


  12. Anonymous

    January 9, 2006 at 1:11 pm

    someones been taking the cues from “a history of mens fashion” a little too seriously. all thats missing is the NASA-issue black horn rimmed eyeglasses. ::: the fit on the jacket is really awful, and the line of the suit looks like a woman’s empire-waisted dress. ::: the short pants and the heavy shoes lend a punk or ska-like appeal, very 80s, but because the fit and proportion is so off, he just looks like a bloated pee wee herman.

  13. Anonymous

    January 9, 2006 at 4:53 pm

    He is very smart. He wears his pants short and his suit tight, everyone writes about him because of it (Vogue, GQ, Uomo Vogue to name a few…), and then he becomes well known and is already able to sell a lot of his suits at Bergdorf’s for $3000, most likely in normal sizes, despite being a relative newcomer at the made-to-measure game.

    Quite the brilliant entrepreneur.

  14. Shorty

    January 9, 2006 at 4:55 pm

    I think this is the only designer that will make clothes for shorter men. +5 points for Mr. Browne.

  15. Quigley Brown

    January 9, 2006 at 6:35 pm

    What’s the difference between his suit and a vintage early 60s one? I’m just going by the photo shown here.

    • Simone Fraser

      November 18, 2014 at 5:19 pm

      I get you, however I would say that Mod 60s look you refer to, though cut slim, did not have a shrunk-in-the-wash look. I think Hedi Slimane mastered this kind of silhouette more recently.
      Our Sart admires Thom Browne greatly, so I make myself take a closer, objective look but I honestly don’t think he wears his own look well. Many of the men’s suits worn by attnendees at Pitti Uomo and elsewhere on this blog have a cropped pant or sleeve length and a slimmer cut do not have the squashed or shrunken appearance this does.
      But this is my opinion. The man is selling suits.

  16. Anonymous

    January 9, 2006 at 7:18 pm

    Give us a break, the man is a slob. If he is the “most important young menswear designer in New York” then the crash of ’32 just hit the fashion industry.

  17. Anonymous

    January 10, 2006 at 12:03 am




  18. Anonymous

    January 10, 2006 at 5:43 am

    The previous post may be pointing out that you misspelled “definitely.”

    As I’ve said elsewhere, he looks like a Bowery bum, but he has certainly elicited a rousing response. I doubt a single one of us will ever forget the name Thom Browne, even if we hate this look with a passion.

  19. The Sartorialist

    January 10, 2006 at 7:43 am

    Oh, I thought that that anonymous person was giving 3 cheers for Mr. Browne. I think i will just keep it in my heart that way.

    Next time just point out my mistakes clearly and politely, please.

    Mr. Browne has received a big response, I think only time will tell but if he is in business for over 5 years in this industry I think we must consider it a success.

  20. Anonymous

    January 11, 2006 at 12:23 pm

    To be true to the root of the word “sartorialist”, I can’t seem to appreciate this dress. A tailor would never be so off on proportions by definition. I get the shock value of TB’s style, but sartorial it isn’t. Wrong name for this blog maybe?

  21. Anonymous

    January 12, 2006 at 3:49 am

    Read in GQ that the whole look was based around “the guy who inherited his father’s suit and looks like it maybe doesn’t fit…”

    Correction: it doesn’t fit. period. It amazes me why ppl wouldn’t buy something off the rack which fits badly. Ah, but that’s the beauty of a Thom Browne bespoke… you can hire crap tailors/cutters to replicate that look and charge $3000 for it.

  22. Joe

    January 12, 2006 at 4:32 am

    I’m sure Mr. Browne seeks to invoke a reaction of “wow, how brave!” from those who happen to see him on the street, but unfortunately the first thought in my mind (and in the minds of most others, apparently) is “wow, his suit doesn’t fit!”.

    Mr. Browne should concentrate more on looking good and less on looking “cool”.

  23. The Sartorialist

    January 12, 2006 at 7:33 am

    This blog is a celebration of men’s style in all of its variety.
    My lifestyle as a photographer, freelance writer etc is perfect for a Thom Browne suit, I might not wear it quite as tight or pants quite as short but in my circle of friends it would not raise an eyebrow.

    Thom Browne should concentrate on how to continue evolving his collection, he is already in some of the worlds most important stores, now he just has to stay in them

  24. Anonymous

    January 12, 2006 at 11:28 am

    I’m just an average guy on the “inside” of the luxury and designer clothing industry. That said, being in ‘the most important’ stores is not always “meritocratic”. There are personalities, politics, kickbacks (oops) and other variables which have absolutely nothing to do with the clothes. i.e.: go to Naples and ask around about Kiton and see the reaction you get (not good).. And Cucinelli is about 40%overpriced.. From this blog, TB has mostly been ridiculed -guess the readers don’t shop in those stores. You admit that the only thing in common you’d wear is the number of sleeves… sorry

  25. The Sartorialist

    January 12, 2006 at 1:59 pm

    I agree with the previous post that there are several factors involved in success, that is why the only way to tell if Mr. Browne will be a success is if he is still open for 5 or 10 years.

    Being the next Armani, Zegna, or Polo is not everyones goal. Most designers i know would love to have a happy little business like Dries Van Noten.

  26. Anonymous

    January 12, 2006 at 2:42 pm

    did i miss something?

    i thought this was about how un-sartorial the chap looked.

    as to bridging the gap between classic and fashion… it’s called getting older.

  27. Anonymous

    January 12, 2006 at 6:36 pm

    While obviously most in this forum are geniuses at dashing and sprinkling wit and insult about. Might they try their hand at placing $2500 dollar suits in one of the best men’s stores in the world and then talk. Imay not care for the aesthetics of the proportions myself but Bravo Thom Browne on your success.

  28. Anonymous

    January 12, 2006 at 9:49 pm

    thom browne who??????????
    he should have won the “patetic award” for the most patetic cloths of the year.
    i cannot believe bergdorf sells this crap! actally i am sure they are not selling this crap at all! believe me nobody would buy a suit like that for not even $300

  29. Anonymous

    January 12, 2006 at 9:54 pm

    prediction: Mr. Browne will be out of business very very soon

  30. Anonymous

    January 13, 2006 at 5:09 am

    it’s “pathetic”

  31. Anonymous

    January 13, 2006 at 8:26 am

    FYI. Thom Browne is one of their top selling vendors in designer men’s. So expect to see alot more of him.

  32. Anonymous

    January 13, 2006 at 12:34 pm

    We may have hit a nerve with someone.

    1) $2500 is not a lot of money for a suit (in Bergdorf anyway)

    2) I personally own suits for which I’ve paid even double that amount

    3) I don’t feel like much of a “genius” for the ones in my closet which have become obsolete before I received the credit card statement

    I’m sorry we’re aiming so much critism at Mr. Browne. After all, he’s doing his job at expressing himself and trying to build a business at the same time. I wish him the best.

    However, those people who are drawn to this forum have spoken and the message is clear.

    Now, I’m not familiar with TB, but perhaps the photos on this blog were not a good advertisement after all.

    Now let’s all move on and cure cancer…

  33. Anonymous

    January 13, 2006 at 12:48 pm

    I agree he was robbed. His tailor stole the last six inches off his pants!

  34. Anonymous

    January 13, 2006 at 1:13 pm

    you all convinced me that there’s no match no a pair of levi’s and a crisp white t-shirt, just like we wear here in Naples.

  35. Anonymous

    January 13, 2006 at 2:56 pm

    You mean you don’t all wear Kiton in Naples!?

  36. Anonymous

    January 13, 2006 at 3:08 pm

    actually no, kiton for the true neapolitan “sartorialist” is mass market, commercial, sold best elsewere. more industrial let’s say.

    here we have still true artisans who come from the old naples school of Rubinacci and Attolini.
    many disciples have their own shops. we are still a little too fanatical.

    p.s.: we don’t have spaghetti & meatballs either…!

  37. Anonymous

    January 15, 2006 at 1:24 pm

    so refreshing!
    thank you very much for last blog.
    i am italian and i leave between italy and new york i agree we do not have spaghetti and meat balls and kiton and borrelli are too commercial fo us
    attolini is the way to go (the pieces made by attolini for domenico vacca are increadible i have friends that come from italy to buy at domenico vacca)

  38. Anonymous

    January 27, 2006 at 1:17 am

    He’s a genuis, I love his suits wish I could just get one where I lived. I think most of the people that don’t like his stuff are people who can’t appreciate a fine tailored suit anyways.

  39. EMNH

    May 20, 2006 at 12:14 pm

    Enough about the designer and his clothes. Let’s take a nice deep breath and appreciate the photo. I mean look that the wonderful shades of gray and the texture.

  40. Anonymous

    October 24, 2007 at 9:03 am

    there’s only one thing worse than wearing a Thom Browne suit……

    …Not wearing a Thom Browne suit

  41. dcinDC

    July 6, 2012 at 9:28 am

    “He is teaching an entire new generation why JFK was so cool.” And how, exactly, is he doing that Scott? JFK’s suits fit. He was “cool” because he was young, rich, and brought a bit of class to the highest office in the land – oh, and he brought Jackie too!

    “What’s the difference between his suit and a vintage early 60s one?” I wish I could come up with a catchy punch line, here, but all I can do is answer – a vintage suit FITS!

    Sorry, but I still don’t see it – and hope I never do. Men’s fashion evolves so slowly, but I still don’t see us ever moving away from the current standard of fit for men’s suits.

  42. Dax

    July 15, 2015 at 4:07 pm

    A Big No!

  43. Syed

    June 24, 2018 at 6:51 am

    It’s 2018 now and I love reading these pseudo-intelligent replies on the post from 2006 written by traditional luddites who said Thom Browne would fail. Well he didn’t. You were all wrong. His stuff gave your ordinary style a big fat middle finger. Superficial people get the boot to your generic shoes!

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