Saturday, September 23, 2006

The Sartorialist on Style.com

I am in the airport now – only one and a half days in London. I got some great women’s shots but the mens I have to hold onto for GQ.

I also just received the final list of show i will be attending in Milan and Paris
Wow, it is like my Christmas shopping list!

The good thing is that most of the show are either very early or later afternoon which gives me plenty of time to walk around the streets of both cities. I will also have a driver available sometimes which will make it easier.

I have to say I was so pleased with how many of the people I met in London already knew my blog. It is still crazy and great to be spotted while I’m shooting and have someone say hello or nice work.

I have to get my thoughts together but we have to talk about this whole Savile Row thing and what the future will bring to that famous street. I have to admit I’m not too misty eyed about seeing it evolve. The retail scene surrounding it is so dramatic that there is no excuse for them not to have anticipated rents rising. A few like Kilgour and Gieves have adjusted and new guys like Spencer Hart are making a name but is it too little too late?

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5 comments

  1. positive_negative

    September 23, 2006 at 2:15 pm

    I’m riding the fence on whether or not it was just to raise the rent prices on Saville Row.

    Even if you aren’t into fashion as most of the contributors on this site, you KNOW the name Saville Row. My father even knows what Saville Row is and has never been out of the country and treasures his “Men’s Warehouse” bought suit.

    I don’t understand why this hasn’t be treated as a historical area and therefore protected under certain provisions. I can’t imagine people flocking to Saville Row if the tailors there have been replaced by Evisu and Abercrombie & Fitch (both scheduled to launch shops there).

    On the otherhand, I feel that times change and we must adapt to them, even if that means losing a bit of history in order to move into the future. An example of change without loss would be French couture houses. Even with all of their skill and mastery, they can’t survive alone on the sale of gowns (there’s only a handfull of women who can truly afford them), so they must also sale fragrances, ready-to-wear, etc., in order to fund their operation. I think the tailors of Saville Row must look to do the same or figure out a way to fight for the neighborhood they made.

    New times call for new measures (and alliances it seems):
    http://business.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,9074-2309170,00.html

  2. ben

    September 23, 2006 at 6:17 pm

    I find it dissapointing to see commerce cashing in on the cachet that saville row has built with long standing traditions and craftsmenship. Without this tradition, and the history of the strip would so many companies be rudhing to set up here? It is like other areas where the creative and innovative move in because of cheap rents – only to have big business ride in on the back of their creativity and force rents up and the people who made the area so valuable in the first place out.

  3. Rob M.

    September 23, 2006 at 11:20 pm

    The thing about Saville Row is that bespoke tailoring is a perfect example of a modern business that need not rely on location to thrive. People don’t window-shop for bespoke suits and shirts. Ultimately, the great English bespoke houses can survive in new locations and cheaper rents. The success of Thomas Mahon, who built his presence through his blog and travels regularly to visit clients in the states, is a perfect example of a modern business model for Saville Row.

  4. ken

    September 24, 2006 at 12:10 am

    I feel that they should preserve the integrity and tradition of Saville Row. To hear that Evisu and Abercrombie & Fitch are moving in is just offensive to me. It’s like having a sex shop moving into Downing Street. Just wrong.

  5. DerSenator

    October 25, 2006 at 11:11 am

    I visited my friends at Kilgour just a couple of weeks ago, and they tell me business couldn’t be better. So it would seem it is possible not only to survive, but to thrive, if one has a clearly articulated brand vision.

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