Wednesday, November 15, 2006

The Real Thom Browne Effect

The real effect of Thom Browne’s work is that when I see a guy like this on the street I don’t really notice the length of his jacket.
When I look at the photo for a minute I notice it but now a short jacket (even this short) looks kinda normal to me. I think it helps that all of his items are in black and blend into each other.


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  1. blackbird

    November 15, 2006 at 6:16 pm

    I like Thom Browne’s stuff -
    I do, but methinks he’s beginning to be a wee bit overexposed…

  2. Alessandro

    November 15, 2006 at 7:35 pm

    It’s great that Browne is pushing this look in America but to credit him with it’s popularity is inaccurate; the Europeans and Japanese have been showing shorter lengths for years.

  3. Butch

    November 15, 2006 at 7:53 pm

    I’m always interested in the way the eye adjusts to fashion change–which is to say, the way it sees differently.

    Not sure this guy’s jacket is intentionally
    short(ish), but the effect is, as you say, a la mode.

  4. Anonymous

    November 15, 2006 at 8:27 pm

    I think people are very quick to criticize Thom Browne for some of the more funky things he designs. However I think he has done more for men’s fashion than anyone since Tom Ford in the 90′s(black on black). Everybody and I mean everybody is doing a short jacket now from Prada to Polo.
    Keep up the great work Thom I swear by your stuff…

    • Simone Fraser

      November 24, 2013 at 8:14 pm

      These comment are indicative of my lack of knowing what has been the “correct” way to dress with men’clothing. It may be that there are more variations on permissible sleeve and jacket lengths in women’s clothing because when I saw this fellow I didn’t think anything of the jacket’s length. Is it really unusually short? My thoughts are that variations are necessary in jacket lengths otherwise people – like me- with the unfortunate proportions of a long torso and shorter legs, would appear even more so with a long jacket.
      Regarding the above comments on Thom Brown’s and tom Ford’s contributions to men’s clothing, would not hedi Slimane be worthy of the same position?

  5. Anonymous

    November 15, 2006 at 8:34 pm

    He looks good. really, but nothing out of the ordinary. Of course, that’s not neccessarily a bad thing…

  6. kimber the wolfgrrrl

    November 15, 2006 at 11:44 pm

    I’m especially fond of the narrow scarf… lovely muted colours, as well.

  7. desnswift

    November 15, 2006 at 11:53 pm

    I really like Browne’s work, as well as Slimane’s BUT I don’t get what is so “revolutionary” about them.

    Is this not a progression of the whole early 60′s Mod/Rude Boy or 70′s Two-Tone aesthetic?

    Bum freezer jackets and trousers cut 3″ above ankles.. just look at photos of The Jam or the Specials or to go further back, soulsters of Motown in the early 60s.

    Japanese street brands have been doing this since the early 90s and Brits like Katherine Hammnet’s 91-93 line.

    Having said that, this bloke’s look is more Paris/Japanese influenced than Yankee Thom’s.

  8. Lit

    November 16, 2006 at 1:07 am

    This guy looks great. I have since become a huge fan of the shorter jacket, but do you not find that it is difficult to ascertain when it is done on purpose and when it is just plain small? I think a lot of people out on the streets might look at you and think “Gees dude, let the jacket go already”.And those who say it shouldn’t matter what people think must just pipe down, because it does.

  9. Anonymous

    November 16, 2006 at 2:23 am

    I’m not sure when the Thom Browne effect started, but short suit jackets have been popular here in LA for a few years now. Rose up from the indie hipsters guys re-appropriating/altering women’s jackets. I guess buying women’s jeans wasn’t enough.

  10. Anonymous

    November 16, 2006 at 2:34 am

    His jacket isn’t short at all, its just that his sleeves are an inch and a half too long.

  11. Anonymous

    November 16, 2006 at 4:36 am

    I like the scarf. To me it depends on the proportion between legs and the upper part of the body. Not everybody should wear cropped jackets.

    On him the look would look good too, if the jacket would’t be cropped. Guys, don’t make a too much fuss of it.I t’s not that important, it’s more the overall look.

  12. Anonymous

    November 16, 2006 at 4:40 am

    come on nyc-guys. Be a little more open minded: Sleeves too long, jacket length….
    Break sometimes stubborn rules and then you will develop personal style.

  13. Anonymous

    November 16, 2006 at 11:40 am

    Sure there have been a few designers who have flirted with short jackets and sure Jill Sander has done a few shorter cut pants but Thom Browne has put such an American twist to it. He has made it the focus of his whole look not just a few pieces. I was a scooter boy back in the day but I wore short pants to show off my shoes if for no other reason. Still have scooters and short pants come to think of it.. Once a mod always a mod. Take a look at Paul Weller when you have a chance he is the modfather and quite a Dandy…..

  14. Anonymous

    November 16, 2006 at 2:03 pm

    Isn’t that what it should be about is personal style??? to me Thom is not evident in this gent’s look at all. Yes it is a shorter jacket, but the monochromatic color selection emphazizes the layers rather thatn th e jacket. This site, and it’s contributors are entirely too wrapped up in name dropping when speaking to peoples style. Perhaps it would be nice to hear from some of the subjects as to their inspiration when dressing in the morning. I think you will find that only a small percentage will ever name a designer, but most of them will speak to their identity and personality. As I am sure this dude would. Hello… if you went to Italy or Japan 2 or 3 years ago you all would have seen shorter more fitted jackets, and short pants hello the Italians are infamous for those! The reason Thom seemed so “New,” is that Americans were so used to wearing suits and jackets that fit like potato sacks! Thom isn’t a revolutionary? No one is these days. Visionaries yes but not revolutionary, designers put their twist on trends which were already in existence. That’s why we love them, they don’t alienate, they play off existing themes. Stylish folks, quit name dropping and relying on magazines and pictures to define your style and do it yourself, only then will you be stylish.

  15. Anonymous

    November 16, 2006 at 5:58 pm

    Shorter jacket:


    California leisure suit

  16. masuerte

    November 17, 2006 at 4:12 am

    The shorter overall length+ longish sleeve look of this jacket is the same style that Yoko Devereaux creates. He has a brooklyn store, could this jacket be one of his?

  17. Anonymous

    November 17, 2006 at 10:34 am

    Doubt it’s Yoko Devearaux – he’s just following a trend, and he usually does his jackets in fleece. Besides, the Japanese have tons of brands that have the shorter length and longer sleeves – I myself have several from a couple of years back from a Japanese brand called Lad Musician, but also some from DSquared2 from as far back as 2003. Both Dior Homme & Neil Barrett championed this trend and I believe Comme des Garçons (or was it Junya?) did that Fall collection several years back with severely shrunken tweed blazers that I remember debating with a sales assoiciate whether or not he should buy at Jeffrey or just get vintage. Thom Browne, distinctive though his look is, is just the most visible American designer in this vein.

  18. juni

    November 21, 2006 at 7:44 am

    Wha – creditin this to Thome Browne..?

    You’re KIDDING me, right??

    Come on, this is just a refined Camden Lock look.. any Londoner who’s ever been to camden – and any bloody student for that matter – will be laughing at you for this.

    cmon, its a look that reached the world stage fer chris’s sake – recall the britpop look?
    (even the most insular yank surely recalls jarvis cocker if only for mooning on stage with michael jackson??)

    Hmm.. Sart, I think you should visit London more often. ;p

  19. The Sartorialist

    November 24, 2006 at 8:34 am

    for Anon 7;44am
    Sorry I don’t live in Camden I live in New York so my point of reference is Thom Browne
    I’m sure Camden hasit all over new York when it comes to style but I will just have to suffer.

  20. DerSenator

    December 2, 2006 at 7:54 pm

    This stylish gent has nothing whatever to do with Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a cartoon of “fashion,” created for people with more department store credit than they have sense (of style or otherwise). Very very silly.

  21. rareburgher

    October 30, 2014 at 12:41 pm

    Exactly right, Scott. This works due to the dark shades and the various pieces fitting together in a cohesive way. The clothes and the style seem natural and compliment the man. Too short jackets or trousers can detract from the man when they stand out too much, sometimes making the man look more like a boy. For some, of course, that’s the point, but this just works.

  22. Ritoot

    February 9, 2017 at 5:05 am

    He looks good. really pretty outfit

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