Thursday, August 5, 2010

The Italian Fit? Try A Back Dart

What makes Italians looks so slim?

What helps them look so refined when casually dressed?

The back dart on their shirts is a big factor.

ps. also note how meticulously the sleeves are rolled-up in both examples

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224 comments

  1. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 4:37 pm

    don't really see how that slims them..but they look great anyways!

    • Simone Fraser

      November 2, 2014 at 1:22 am

      I think it is because unstructured fabric can add bulk, where such darts will streamline the shape. Similar to princess seams on a dress, the vertical lines are strengthened.

  2. FASHION SNAG

    August 5, 2010 at 4:39 pm

    I love darts like that. They just look clean and the sleeves rolled up show off strong forearms.

    http://www.FashionSnag.com

  3. Gordon

    August 5, 2010 at 4:40 pm

    How do you roll up sleeves like that??

  4. fashionsdirtylaundry

    August 5, 2010 at 4:41 pm

    One cannot under estimate the presentation of a well tailored garment!

  5. kramer

    August 5, 2010 at 4:42 pm

    That first fellow is wearing cargo shorts. No dart can save this man

  6. Miss Tasha

    August 5, 2010 at 4:43 pm

    Makes total sense and that guy is HOT

  7. Vfriedrich

    August 5, 2010 at 4:43 pm

    Definitely going to have to share this post with my husband; you're going to be his new hero. He loves tips for dressing more like a "mad man." b

    XO Valerie

    http://www.imstarvin.blogspot.com

  8. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 4:44 pm

    You are totally right re: the darts on the back of the shirt. I can't stand how all my shirts have that ridiculous box pleat on the back that makes the shirt poof out so sloppily and makes the wearer look hunchbacked. So unflattering! Why can't all clothes be made like Italian clothes??

  9. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 4:44 pm

    I guess it's best said that the "Italian fit" is for "fit Italians", no? Very nice.

  10. beto

    August 5, 2010 at 4:47 pm

    How do they roll up their sleeves so nicely? I find it especially tougher to keep a clean look because my shirts are fitted.

  11. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 4:48 pm

    Is there a name for this kind of dart? I'd like to have my button downs tailored with this fit

  12. Sam Stephenson

    August 5, 2010 at 4:48 pm

    yo! where is this shirt from?!
    Much love, Sammy

  13. B.

    August 5, 2010 at 4:50 pm

    that's the reason why i have a big crush about italian guys :)

    it seems they have a sense of style amyzing…always looking good.

  14. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 4:51 pm

    It's also the cut of the physique as much as the attention to detail…You can't beat the perfect cut on the perfect body.

  15. CINCHED AT THE WAIST

    August 5, 2010 at 4:51 pm

    Sleeves are rolled to perfection. Of course, Italians. Meticulous way of capturing this, big fan.

  16. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 4:51 pm

    If only it were possible to easily find a shirt with that type of seaming in Canada. Around here, even if you can find a shirt with this fit, you're looking at a couple hundred bucks.

  17. justine a.

    August 5, 2010 at 4:52 pm

    amazing fits, i (am in) love (with the man in) the first photo!!
    ;-)
    justine

  18. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 4:56 pm

    Ok, so excuse my ignorance but what the hell is a "dart" on a shirt? I stared at the photos for a bit but can't make it out.

  19. Kathleen

    August 5, 2010 at 4:57 pm

    Yes, the Italians even in more casual mode of dress, are still "dressed up". Even the children. There is, as you say, a lot more attention to detail. And as always, I just love the mixed accessories. Expensive watches, belts, and messenger bag, with bead and leather bracelets? I like to see the extraordinary mixed in with just a kick of something you are not expecting. The men especially like to do this whether they are dressing casually or in a business suit. There is something extremely sexy about this mix. Love it!

  20. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 5:04 pm

    Wow. So nice to see the bodies of men. I've never understood the allure of over-sized everything in the US. If a shirt is well tailored you can still be comfortable. And exceedingly attractive!

  21. TMR

    August 5, 2010 at 5:05 pm

    It also helps that they are body conscious and not fat…

  22. Jennifer - Stylish Clin d'Oeil

    August 5, 2010 at 5:05 pm

    The detail i prefer is how they rolled-up their sleeves. It gives them a very smart look!

  23. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 5:10 pm

    NICE!
    NICE!
    NICE!
    NICE!

    thxSAR!

  24. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 5:12 pm

    The back dart only works for those fortunate enough to be lean. And to get your sleeves rolled like that, you roll them before you put your shirt on.

  25. Felicity

    August 5, 2010 at 5:14 pm

    His outfit is so simple, yet the cut and fit makes it really stand out.

  26. FindingFashionland

    August 5, 2010 at 5:14 pm

    Just look for a shirt with the right snit! its very Simple just dont buy it to big..

    ffl

  27. Felicity

    August 5, 2010 at 5:15 pm

    Anonymous- See the two seams in the back of the shirt? Those are darts.

  28. dixage

    August 5, 2010 at 5:18 pm

    Nice pictures again! I really like the blue shirt, not so sure about the correct fit of the white one though.

  29. The Sheep in a Box

    August 5, 2010 at 5:19 pm

    very interesting!

  30. Topes

    August 5, 2010 at 5:21 pm

    the guy in the blue shirt looks great. the guy in the white is rocking some serious sartorial overstatement; that's about as close to "skin tight" as a shirt can get, and is simply too small at the top.

  31. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 5:30 pm

    Loved the first one. Very casual and ellegant!

  32. shehstar

    August 5, 2010 at 5:35 pm

    I love darted sleeves!

    Does anyone know what bag the first guy is wearing? It's really nice.

  33. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 5:39 pm

    The darts are not uncommon in North America. I have tried it with many shirts, with an inch per side but the shirt felt weird; back seems to be tighter than the front.

  34. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 5:46 pm

    The clothes on the first gentleman are too tight… it's actually not flattering or chic. It's a common look throughout Europe, but it lacks the ease and self-assuredness of someone who has a true (and not forced) sense of style.

    Furthermore, he looks thin because he's thin, not because of a dart in his shirt.

  35. Nappington

    August 5, 2010 at 5:52 pm

    The first guy is too much, but the second looks so so sharp!

  36. Simon

    August 5, 2010 at 5:57 pm

    Forgive me if I have this completely wrong but aren't these "slim fit" shirts? I'm in the UK and this fit of shirt is quite common to find in both high street and designer stockists.

    If you search the UK branch of a well known on-line auction site (you know the one), and search for slim fit shirts, you'd probably find a wide selection.

    As I say, if I have this all wrong then ignore my previous comments and put it down to excessive alcohol and tea consumption.

  37. balsamfir

    August 5, 2010 at 5:59 pm

    Of course they look slim because they are slim. Our western ideal of male beauty historically is Italian, eg David. But they are also not afraid to pay attention to their clothes.

  38. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 6:01 pm

    even here in the united kingdom this is a fairly standard cut for a mans shirt

  39. Alexandra

    August 5, 2010 at 6:09 pm

    Aside from the fact that he is absolutely gorgeous, I love the way he is dressed. So stylish and yet so masculine.

    http://tovogueorubst.blogspot.com/

  40. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 6:14 pm

    @anonymous 4:56PM A dart is that stitched down fold in a garment that takes it in (there are 2 on the backs of the shirts in the photos).

    Scott's point is that it's not so much about how "fit" the person is, it's the FIT of the clothing on the person. Of course if one is packing a spare tire, no amount of darting will really slim down the wearer…but take the same person and put them in a well-tailored garment (suited to his/her body type), instead of gaining additional visual pounds one can ill-afford, one can actually look smartly dressed.

  41. Ivy Lane

    August 5, 2010 at 6:16 pm

    mmm..the darts are good.. but I think it's the bods in the shirts that make the shirts look so good!!

  42. Valentine

    August 5, 2010 at 6:24 pm

    Perfecto !

    http://valentineavoh.blogspot.com
    -diary of a fashion stylist-

  43. no sé quién

    August 5, 2010 at 6:25 pm

    Wait just a second… those shirts HAVE to be 3/4 sleeve lengths. I don't see a way for rolling normal long sleeves up to above the elbow and not end up with a thick bunch of fabric.

    There's gotta be some trick these sneaky Italians are pulling… and I want to know it :D

  44. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 6:27 pm

    Darts, what darts? hot guy…

  45. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 6:35 pm

    also help they're actually fit to begin with!

  46. Pergolina

    August 5, 2010 at 6:35 pm

    squisito!

  47. Chiara LoCriti

    August 5, 2010 at 6:38 pm

    they look so nice! wonderful photos..
    I admire you!

  48. mara

    August 5, 2010 at 6:39 pm

    i think the cargoes work well with the dude in the first shot.

    italy….what a gorgeous nation :)

    xxx

    http://amaturecouture.com

  49. Jack

    August 5, 2010 at 6:47 pm

    love it! It is so hard to find shirts with back darts in the states unless you do custom or high end. As for people asking about the roll up sleeves those are easy. the fabric of these shirts is quite light weight and so there isn't a a lot of bulk also they probably do as I do and roll them up before putting them on. it's just three fold up to get the right length.

  50. Greg

    August 5, 2010 at 6:56 pm

    I bought myself two shirts with darts in Barcelona and really like the fit. I wish there were more such options here in the US.

  51. elizabeth

    August 5, 2010 at 7:16 pm

    italian men = most stylish in the world, in my opinion.

    thecoffeeexperiment.blogspot.com

  52. Anna

    August 5, 2010 at 7:29 pm

    Those rolled up sleeves look so nice because they're easily cut a good 2 inches narrower than an American man's shirt would be, as is the shirt body. Face it, even an expensive American shirt is baggy, baggy, baggy!

    A well-heeled and fashionable American guy will spend his money on a European cut, which is fundamentally slimmer than an American cut.

    (Of course, we see lots of "fitted" shirts on guys who are so fat the buttons are straining.)

  53. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 7:46 pm

    The look works for HIM. It's amazing. I'd really like to know where the bag in the first pic can be found.

  54. Matthew

    August 5, 2010 at 7:55 pm

    Looking for affordable shirts with back darts (or back seaming, which is a close second)? H&M!

  55. Jonathon Pedrozo

    August 5, 2010 at 7:56 pm

  56. O'shané

    August 5, 2010 at 7:57 pm

    The first gentleman looks very, very sharp.

  57. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 8:03 pm

    Hey, btw what are the man's sunglasses on the first picture?

  58. Richard

    August 5, 2010 at 8:05 pm

    I have shirts by Theory, John Varvatos, Paul Smith and Neiman Marcus with “darts”.

  59. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 8:17 pm

    Wow…darts. I bought an inexpensive fitted shirt without trying it on and was disappointed to find that it had darts in the back. I like the fit in the front, but am self-conscious about the back because you generally those darts on a woman's shirt.

  60. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 8:22 pm

    Darts are triangular lengths removed from the pattern – a little shy of the princess seaming you see in some womens clothing. To have them front and back is excellent. Almost everyone is narrower at the waist than under their arms or across their shoulders. Darts remove that extra fabric from around the waist and keep it from overflowing. I won't buy shirts that don't at least have front darts. With an hourglass figure, darts make 15 pounds of visual difference.

  61. El Wonger

    August 5, 2010 at 8:28 pm

    You want darts and a slimmer fitting shirt?
    Buy a decent-fitting, plain backed shirt, then go to a seamstress and for about $15 or so, you can make a $75 (or less) shirt look like a $200 shirt.

    You also have to be in shape to begin with, but the idea of just going out and buying it says volumes about what constitutes real personal style. It's all in the little details and putting thought into it.

  62. rEVOLVEr

    August 5, 2010 at 8:32 pm

    I would guess that losing some weight also helps to look slim… and not buying stuff three sizes bigger than you, and all that. The first guy is really thin, I'm a lot thicker and I think that would look great on me while standing up and then I'd look like a fool sitting down.

  63. William

    August 5, 2010 at 8:39 pm

    For everyone wondering how to roll your sleeves up like that, simply use the cuff as your guide. Roll the cuff back at the seam,then roll it up again, pulling it back to the end of the cuff, then repeat until your desired height.

  64. SallyO

    August 5, 2010 at 8:45 pm

    The guy in the white shirt has a great physique, but that shirt is way too small! Look where the shoulder seams sit, and the pulling of the fabric all over his perfect muscles. And don't get me started on his nipples…

  65. Lisa Petrarca

    August 5, 2010 at 8:56 pm

    Interesting! We usually only see the darts on womens blouses here in the US.

    Thanks for the post…LOVE Italians, go figure, I'm married to one!

    My blog was featured on a travel website-Check it out!

    http://taxidiaris.blogspot.com/2010/08/huntington-beach-california.html

  66. Cath @ chunkychooky

    August 5, 2010 at 8:59 pm

    Love the darts, love the bag, love that they had to of rolled up those sleeves BEFORE they put the shirt on right?

  67. Anamaria

    August 5, 2010 at 9:03 pm

    Most of the Italians I've known dress badly and the ones who try, they're stuck in the '90s in a bad way…Sart get over it, don't praise them!

  68. Margo

    August 5, 2010 at 9:24 pm

    I must show this to my husband – he will love it. And I will feel clever because I'm going to do some of his shirts on my sewing machine. I'll blog about it then.

    Thanks for the excellent inspiration!

  69. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 9:32 pm

    Thanks for pointing out the darts.

    I just checked my shirts. The ones from Europe have them. The ones from the U.S., the majority, do not.

    Now to find a good tailor who can add them. Should be easy enough …

  70. Meghan Leigh McNally

    August 5, 2010 at 9:41 pm

    Super sexy! Clothes are meant to be fitted.

  71. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 9:44 pm

    That first man is so gorgeous. Yum yum… I just can't stop looking *blushes*

  72. Sophie

    August 5, 2010 at 9:50 pm

    They're also very skinny to begin with!

  73. KC

    August 5, 2010 at 10:27 pm

    the effect of the darts is more visible on the first example. the clothes should fit well too. too small shirts or tight ones might look like women's shirts.

    http://nouveauskin.blogspot.com

  74. Well Done

    August 5, 2010 at 10:54 pm

    quite beautiful.

  75. Anonymous

    August 5, 2010 at 10:59 pm

    I'm loving all the shots of the Italians – They all manage to look so stylish and do so with apparent ease. Swoon swoon.
    Back seams in shirts improve the appearance of anyone's figure – even guys with 'tummies' can wear this if the fabric isn't pulled tight across their fronts. The trick with the sleeve-roll is to roll it up carefully using the width of the cuff as your guide, and doing the entire fold BEFORE it's worn. Allora.
    Ciao, LB

  76. Caitlin

    August 5, 2010 at 11:08 pm

    Agreed, but the first guy could pretty much wear a trashbag and my head would still turn:)

  77. J L Edward

    August 5, 2010 at 11:15 pm

    The back darts help to create a more defined "v-shape" in the male silhouette. Takes out the extra fabric that can be really unflattering. And ill fitting shirt can make you seem like you have love handles if you have none or make yours more pronounced.

  78. BARGAIN BEX

    August 5, 2010 at 11:53 pm

    Hello, Mister Man in the first photos. Nice to meet you. My name is Bex.

  79. Scoob

    August 6, 2010 at 1:02 am

    Italians look slim becvvause of the cut – bottom line.

  80. Miguel Ignacio

    August 6, 2010 at 1:18 am

    Simplemente ESTUPENDO! Its amazing how you can creat a very fresh and causal look with a nice and fit white shirt and cargo pants. Course you have to add some nice accesories as that man did, like the belt and messenger bag.

    take a look!
    http://www.miposteo.blogspot.com

  81. Marlo

    August 6, 2010 at 1:21 am

    i agree 100%…

    american brands do a really bad job of not utilizing this… for that reason, i have to go a size down when buying american brands, just so that i can get that fitted look….

    i wish american utilized the back dart more… i hate when there is extra fabric just hanging behind on the back of me…

  82. Red Red Rose

    August 6, 2010 at 1:30 am

    They definitely look great!

  83. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 1:50 am

    Also the armholes on these shirts are high compared to American shirts so there's not an excess of fabric under the arm – it makes the shirt less bulky and has a better silhouette. Well fitted shirts with high armholes are comfortable when properly tailored.

    Blaumax

  84. EVA

    August 6, 2010 at 2:40 am

    Italian are born elegant!!
    But I think that the first shirt would fit better If it was one size more.

    Shirts and t-shirts too much tigh don´t look good in my opinion, although you have a great body-type

  85. green lantern

    August 6, 2010 at 2:43 am

    Another thing that sets them apart from us "Americans" is that we like big biceps and triceps…this is in direct opposition to high arm holes and trim fit shirts. We tend to be beefy athletic, they tend to be lean athletic. As I get older, I tend to favor the leaner look.

  86. Alex

    August 6, 2010 at 2:57 am

    i really like that leather bag. where can you buy something similar?

  87. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 3:28 am

    Just say yes to darts! My husband has a few old back-darted shirts from Benetton… they're the best-fitting things he owns.

    As for the first guy's look–there are cargo shorts, and then there are _those_ cargo shorts. Dio mio. Sometimes shameless peacockery is a very good thing indeed. :)

  88. Liz S

    August 6, 2010 at 3:31 am

    This shirt is how I remember 70s style was. There was the "body shirt"–mostly this was of a very fine knitted material but could also include those shirts of other material that hugged closely to show off the shape of the man's body. Back then most men were a lot slimmer so they could comfortably wear those shirts.

    They are not such an unusual thing though these days–and certainly not as Italian as being suggested. I know they are easily available if you shop in the right places here and look for young guys fashion rather than traditionalist more mature fashions. Many young men work out and so look great in them. Probably are a bit more buff than in the 70s so even more appealing.

  89. Diana

    August 6, 2010 at 3:32 am

    ooooh, first guy hot. beautiful body.
    The only "problem" with the darts (I love that i always learn new words through this blog), that they show every detail of your body, so if you have even a tiny little "swimbelt" around your belly, forget them very quickly.
    Aaaah can´t stand starring at this hottie, Mr Shumann, you made my day! thanks

  90. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 3:38 am

    T.M. Lewin, the British shirtmaker, has some slim fit shirts with various types of collars on offer. Quality is ok — of course nothing "Italian" in terms of fabrics.

  91. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 3:56 am

    Anamaria said…

    Most of the Italians I've known dress badly and the ones who try, they're stuck in the '90s in a bad way…Sart get over it, don't praise them!

    ———————————-

    Is that why Americans end up copying European styles 5 years after it was fashionable in Europe? Maybe the Italian-Americans you know dress badly but if you think these guys on the blog dress badly, I'm guessing your friends actually are quite stylish people :)

  92. Nolita

    August 6, 2010 at 4:29 am

    I really like how italian men dress!

    http://www.nolitavintage.com

  93. Couture

    August 6, 2010 at 4:32 am

    WONDERFUL! The first man looks SO GOOD, he redeems even the *ugh* *yuk* cargo shorts.

  94. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 4:36 am

    I'm staggered by some of these responses. It may be just a US thing but "italian cut" shirts aren't a new phenom and they are very easy to pick up from the UK high street in most stores.

    To the poster who said "i don't know why it works but it does" – use you imagination!

    and..

    To the poster who wanted his button downs like this, ask a tailor to do it for you, its an easy alteration, because traditionally a button down won't have this type of cut off the peg.

  95. An Ounce of Style

    August 6, 2010 at 4:43 am

    Personally,This is how I always treat sleeves. If you're going to roll up, do it properly. Plus it looks so much nicer than a short sleeve shirt.

  96. F.

    August 6, 2010 at 4:44 am

    The only way to seem slim is no food, gym and no food at all. However, I think is the way we grow up: attention to small thing is all.

  97. Melissa Z.

    August 6, 2010 at 4:49 am

    Love the look of the first guy! Cooooool! <3

    http://www.abitoffashion.com

  98. Nick Kovaleski

    August 6, 2010 at 5:13 am

    Couldn't agree with Kramer more…cargo shorts are never OK. His shades though…perfect fit.

  99. THESTREETFASHION5XPRO

    August 6, 2010 at 5:31 am

    very very nice

  100. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 6:09 am

    Both men looking very round at the shoulders… Italian posture might need some work?

  101. patterson

    August 6, 2010 at 6:30 am

    This is what I usually wear! (i'm italian too!!…sono italiano!!!)

  102. KJ

    August 6, 2010 at 7:22 am

    How unfair!

    Now the Italians get all the credit for, in my opinion, a shirt that acutally fits. Nothing special about darts/fits like these in Europe. (I'm from Holland myself.)

    How to roll up a sleeve like that? Lol. Unbutton the sleeve buttons, especially the one at wrist height and start rolling…easy as…

    Anyway, it's nice to see that many Americans via this site get to see the other way of dressing: buying clothes that fit. Perhaps The Sartorialist can visit some other Euro-countries for a change. Because nowhere in Europe are XXXXL shirts considered cool haha.

    Doei!

  103. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 7:36 am

    Beautiful bodies will always look good in this sort of shirt. Not such a good look with a paunch! The shorts are amazing, what a perfect length for these amazing legs! What lovely pictures to look at first thing in the morning. The sleeves must be rolled before putting on the shirts, surely? Julia

  104. spore

    August 6, 2010 at 7:36 am

    Darts are half of the story, but the look also needs higher armholes and narrower cut sleeves. Won't look natural any other way.

  105. Archibald

    August 6, 2010 at 7:44 am

    Once again, it makes it all so obvious:

    The fact that a well cut fit is alot more flattering than backpleats and vast amounts of unnecessary extra fabric.

    The same goes for trousers, or as another strong style influence once stated: "The devil wears pleated pants".

  106. enrique

    August 6, 2010 at 7:46 am

    Aha!! The secret's out! Thank you for sharing.

  107. ✄ Fabric U ✄

    August 6, 2010 at 8:18 am

    I'll have to try putting in back darts next time I sew a blouse but I also think the print on the fabric makes a difference too. Both of these mens' shirts have thin stripes, which is visually slimming.

    I app-solutely ♥
    my ✄ Fabric U ✄
    iPhone app!
    http://tinyurl.com/242bua9

  108. Lee Oliveira

    August 6, 2010 at 8:34 am

    I love the first photo.. he is very handsome.
    Love the darts. i have in all my shirt.
    LOx

  109. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 9:13 am

    I think the metal watch stands out too much in the first photo…I think if you are looking for that safari look with the brown leather bag and the khaki shorts, a subtler, more military inspired watch would do better. The white shirt should bling the loudest. I can't even look at my metal watches in the summer, I favor my ribbon band OD green Timex (you know–licking, ticking, but not sticking!)

    I thought about getting a sewing machine and a ruler to start darting a few of my balloonly favorite shirts myself. We Americans favor those annoying balloony shirts. Everything does not have to be supersized, people!

  110. Laurent

    August 6, 2010 at 9:21 am

    Yes, standard and available all over Europe and the world, USA as well, you have to look in stores other than Brooks, J.Press,R. Lauren etc, Try Department stores that have European shirtmakers or look for "slim cut" that have narrow profile and fitted waist, sometimes darts. The lack of extra fabric causes suit jacket to be more comfortable, but if this tight, or with a few extra pounds they are very uncomfortable to sit at a desk for hours. The shirt in first photo is just too small, he's trying too hard and believes the photos in L'Uomo Vogue. In my opinion, the sleeves are rolled too high, two turns, that's it, and burn your short-sleeve shirts, throw all cargoes there as well,oh, ok donate them.

  111. Girilim

    August 6, 2010 at 9:58 am

    Lovely!

  112. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 9:59 am

    If they would pull their sholders back, they would look even slimmer/taller.

    Try slim-fit shirts, H&M actually have great ones for only 20-something bucks – not sure about the quality though.

    Frost also have some good ones…

  113. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 10:09 am

    A good tailor can put darts in any shirt. The important thing is not to over-slim a standard shirt so that the shoulders and arms are too generous compared to the back and waist. Many shirtmakers especially in the UK make slim-fit shirts with no darting, which can be more flattering if you have a fuller frame.

  114. Laurent

    August 6, 2010 at 10:12 am

    In addition… As to the bag in first picture: All over Florence and Milano little side-street shops custom -make bags like these and suprisingly (relatively)affordable, and last forever.

  115. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 10:18 am

    I was in Italy in 2008 and to me they keep their body in shape because they don't eat big portions as we do. And they are not scared of calories whatsoever. I had a breakfast with a Italian couple on my first day in Brescia (city one hour from Milan) and they took us to their favorite place. We stood to eat at the bar and we di not spend nearly 20 minutes. The place served pastries and coffee and that is it! They both ate a single pastry and I wanted to try one of each…lol..of course I didn't…that helps a lot to be in shape, and on top of that all over the places I visited (Padova, Florence, Venice, Pisa and a big portion of the country in Tuscany) I saw people with a very sharp sense of fashion, and like somebody said here, they love acessories – gorgeous sunglasses, braceletes(guys in Italy love them), bags and shoes. No other society will ever match the Italians when it comes to style. Men can be hot and handsome and delicious anywhere in the world but Italians do have style and that is innate to their soul.
    I am going back in November and I am rushing on a diet because I don't want to look chubby on the streets of Florence everrrrrrrr.
    As far as the pics and both men…they are gorgeous and inshape so the clothes look stunning. Top notch!
    I love both outfits and would wear both if I had the body for.

  116. kar

    August 6, 2010 at 10:58 am

    Uh huh. Yeah, we're looking at the shirt darts. Every now and then you have a picture that stretches my belief that these are candid street shots.

    The lighting, composition & posturing are typical of professional fashion shots. Combined with the subjects' long legs and startling features, who seem to instinctly know how to pose. Add to that the apparent individual tailoring for the majority of outfits that you don't typically find off the rack.

    You seem to be in a land populated by professional models.

  117. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 11:06 am

    I'm not sure if anyone wrote this in already, but they roll the sleeves up before they put the shirt on. meticulously! so elegant.

  118. SartoriallyAddicted

    August 6, 2010 at 11:20 am

    …the shoulder seams are also cut very high so the armpit has little material, creating a contour along the body.

  119. Bell

    August 6, 2010 at 11:25 am

    Why is it that your photos men are better than you do to women?

  120. JV

    August 6, 2010 at 11:26 am

    Also note the fortunate genetics of the two men pictured here.

  121. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 11:44 am

    Yes, Sart – without the darts in his shirt, the guy in white would look totally flabby.

  122. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 11:48 am

    in love with the first man

  123. Tom Henson

    August 6, 2010 at 12:01 pm

    you have never seen cristian cappozzos way rolling up his shirt sleeves
    that is what you should call
    meticulous

  124. Jean

    August 6, 2010 at 12:02 pm

    Actually I still wonder how you guys in US can still wear standard cuts for shirts (for those of you who are slim ;)).

    Slim Fit cut is everywhere, but actually you can fin from the better to the worse. Italian brands are above all, indeed. Have some great slim shirts from Valentino, Balenciaga or Romeo Gigli. You can find some online.

  125. marc

    August 6, 2010 at 12:14 pm

    also the fact that, unlike yourself, the men in these pictures are rather slim

  126. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 12:16 pm

    The first example is a terrible fit, looks like he's about to burst out of a corset. Darts aren't necessarily needed to achieve a trim fitting shirt, much can be done through skillful pattern manipulation.

  127. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 12:19 pm

    rotfl, nipple

  128. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 12:20 pm

    As a pattern maker and garment fit nerd this post makes me very excited! I love your blog because of the tech details you photograph so beautifully, that is why I love browsing it, I love and appreciate what designers do and I love the fact I can support them with my obsession with patternmaking and fits!

    Thank you!

  129. Taye Hansberry

    August 6, 2010 at 12:46 pm

    can they please make them here like that…I'm talking about the man..ohh and the shirt is nice too!! Phew Lordy!!

  130. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 12:52 pm

    I like slim fitting shirts, even on women, so that they do look slimmer.

  131. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 1:38 pm

    curious about the shoes they were wearing.

  132. Ninjagaiden78

    August 6, 2010 at 1:49 pm

    I have always felt that it is all in the fit. They probably try their shirts on.

    windowshop78.blogspot.com

  133. IS THIS IT? models review

    August 6, 2010 at 2:08 pm

    haha I'm a "meticulous sleeves roller" too! :)
    and yes, these shirts are pure delight – perfect.

    http://www.isthisitmodelsreview.com/

  134. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 2:08 pm

    The scar on the second man is extraordinary! wish we could see his face.

  135. honeybeeandme

    August 6, 2010 at 2:17 pm

    WELL, WELL, WELL, FIRST I MUST SAY THAT I WOULD LOVE TO SMELL THE FIRST GENTELMEN, AS I KNOW HE SMELLS WONDERFUL AND AS FOR FIT I LOVE TO SEE A MORE FITTED LOOK TOO.. I ALSO,LOVE THE LOOSE LOOK, TOO… LET'S FACE IT.. IF YOU LOOK BEAUTIFUL MAN OR WOMEN, YOU CAN OWN THE CLOTHS YOU WEAR, VERY FEW GET THAT PRIVLEDGE….

    XXXOO
    MELISSA

  136. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 2:21 pm

    yeah great fit but totally unpractical for anything approaching everyday wear even for slim guys like myself.

  137. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 2:34 pm

    'Rolled to perfection' is a bit too anal for me…

  138. jimjims

    August 6, 2010 at 3:38 pm

    love the sleeves.

    perfection…

    hah!

    http://www.jimjims.net/

  139. maya

    August 6, 2010 at 5:05 pm

    yes! if only we paid so much attention to detail on this side of the pond…

  140. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 5:42 pm

    Having recently returned from a trip to Italy, I totally agree about the "Italian fit" – the men there are impeccably dressed and their look is always well tailored. Unfortunately, the women are very much overshadowed, style-wise, by the men too!

  141. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 6:36 pm

    Anyone know where these sunglasses are from? Would love to know!

  142. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 10:36 pm

    Great tip! But to wear shirts with back darts you must be in good shape otherwise it does not work.

  143. Anonymous

    August 6, 2010 at 11:19 pm

    yes, I noticed this the entire time that I was in Italy. My only question is does American brands such as Ralph Lauren make camices like this-with the darts, I have yet to see it.

  144. Anonymous

    August 7, 2010 at 1:07 am

    I love your attention on details

  145. ciaociao

    August 7, 2010 at 3:17 am

    Nothing
    wrong
    with
    cargo
    shorts
    (on this pic ! the american version… well, that one i dont like.)

  146. jakarech

    August 7, 2010 at 4:00 am

    WOW, LOVE THESE GUYS!!!

    http://cestclassique.blogspot.com

  147. Anonymous

    August 7, 2010 at 6:45 am

    Think the sunglasses are Persol – maybe 2944s?

  148. Anonymous

    August 7, 2010 at 6:46 am

    Think the sunglasses are Persols – maybe 2944s?

  149. Zaydoun

    August 7, 2010 at 6:51 am

    I have that belt and I've worn similar combinations of this look over time… Compliments every time :-)

  150. Marco A. Calamassi

    August 7, 2010 at 8:03 am

    x shehstar: the bag is ORCIANI. The best for "no-logo" leather stuffs in Italy and worldwide.

    They also make stunning belts, also for women.

    Well, the first guy looks great but it's a very very casual look.

  151. Duke

    August 7, 2010 at 9:00 am

    Of course if you look like him you would look good in anything!!!
    OR nothing…!!!

  152. Pam

    August 7, 2010 at 10:37 am

    Scott, I love how your experience in pattern drafting, sewing and fitting informs your observations. The blue shirt also has a nice yoke on the back which makes it fit very nicely across the back of his shoulders. Well fitting clothes on fit people – perfection!

  153. Cloud of Secrets

    August 7, 2010 at 11:42 am

    It seems so odd to me in the USA to see darts like this in men's shirts. I instantly think, "princess seams! Women's shirts!" In fact, some stylists who suggest classic white men's shirts as a sexy look for women instruct them to avoid the darts of tailored women's shirts, which will spoil the effect.

    I wonder if the shirts come off the rack like that in Italy, or if they all have tailors to fit the darting to the body.

    http://cloudofsecrets.blogspot.com

  154. Anonymous

    August 7, 2010 at 11:44 am

    that white shirt is TOO TIGHT

  155. Anonymous

    August 7, 2010 at 1:49 pm

    Haha, I always buy men's shirts and sew these darts on the back so they fit more like a women's shirt. Men's shirts are just so much more comfortable and don't look as fussy.

  156. Anonymous

    August 7, 2010 at 7:13 pm

    Hi there, I am a young lawyer living in London who is sick of the rather sloppy fitting shirts that are found almost everywhere I go shopping. Is there anywhere in London anyone would suggest for a excellent tailored shirt selection, where you arent restricted to the only variable being french cuffs. Thanks

  157. ashford

    August 8, 2010 at 12:58 am

    Ugh I've had such a problem with button down shirts that hit the point of my shoulder blades and then seem to "tent" out from that point onward. I never knew what the problem was until now.

    Back darts it is!

  158. Anonymous

    August 8, 2010 at 2:14 am

    i'm really astounded by all the comments, not just for this post but for many other posts here on this site, where people would say "NEVER" to certain items of clothing like cargo shorts, flip flops, etc.

    really? NEVER? it's so closeminded for people i imagine to be mostly openminded about clothing. here at the sartorialist, we tend to praise bright green suit pants and loud plaid coats, etc. so i would think they appreciate all sorts of clothing.

    or am i wrong? do you guys only like things that aren't "mainstream" just for the sake of "being different?" do you like arcade fire because you actually like their music or because you just want to be seen as the type of person who would like indie rock?

    let's not be fashion snobs. as long as the clothes are not obnoxious (ie. ed hardy, affliction), i don't see anything wrong with items like cargo shorts and flip flops as long as the overall look is not compromised, as long as it's done tastefully, and with fit/colours/patterns/proportions, etc. in mind.

    my two cents.

  159. Eilish

    August 8, 2010 at 3:17 am

    haha , oh how i love the way those back darts make the men look. beautiful.

  160. mridula

    August 8, 2010 at 4:15 am

    The guy in the white shirt look sleazy. There is such a thing as too fitted. The blue shirt is perfection.

  161. Anonymous

    August 8, 2010 at 5:05 am

    In Italy we use to say that this kind of sleeve "fa sesso" ! Anything is accidental

    Elena

  162. CourdreMode

    August 8, 2010 at 11:47 am

    Women's shirt have this type of vertical dart pretty commonly. However, the blue shirt is not custom made because it does not quite fit him properly. The upward curve of the yoke means he needs more length in the back. The fix is to horizontally slash the yoke pattern piece to add more length. It looks like he needs at least 1/2 inch in the middle tapering to nothing at the armsyce. He probably has a deep chest front to back and this why there is the distortion on the yoke.

  163. The girl of many sorts.

    August 8, 2010 at 12:39 pm

    Were do all the hot men come from?????

    I can`t seem to find them:)

    Lovely blog you have …
    SP

  164. Christin

    August 8, 2010 at 3:00 pm

    A question I turn in my mind for years!
    I think that Italians look just seems to be easy, but is very elaborated (as seen on the sleeves). They always take care to wear perfect cutted items close to their body so the shape of it comes out. And they don´t fear colours. White is absolutely usual, which is unthinkable f.i. for german men. More like this! Its very inspiring, even for women :)

  165. Aasia

    August 8, 2010 at 3:10 pm

    This reminds how I'm always after my boyfriend's life on how to fold his shirt sleeves. Well, I'v already mailed him this post link. :)
    Great post.

  166. Anonymous

    August 8, 2010 at 4:26 pm

    Let me see his face!!!!

  167. Tristan

    August 8, 2010 at 4:30 pm

    KJ is right, most shirts in Europe are cut like so.

    When I was living in America I could only find three places to buy shirts that fit.

    1) Ralph Lauren (try the custom fit cuts, avoid the classic cuts)

    2) Gant

    3) H&M

    Okay, not quite the fancy fashion houses that are mentioned here, but those were the ones I found that worked.

    Tristan

  168. Bigio

    August 8, 2010 at 5:20 pm

    Amazing outfits! They look perfect!

  169. L'Amour et la Paix

    August 8, 2010 at 7:37 pm

    Men in the U.S. need to take style tips from European men!

    http://lamouretlapaix.blogspot.com/

  170. Anonymous

    August 8, 2010 at 11:04 pm

    sprezz'ed nipples

  171. Anonymous

    August 9, 2010 at 3:11 am

    Totally with you on this one. In the case of the first picture, I think it helps that the guy is totally hot!! I think his hotness is 90% making the look work! :)

    J

  172. Becca

    August 9, 2010 at 9:28 am

    I think the fit of these shirts is sheer perfection. Also, the sleeves are crisp yet completely relaxed.

    Becca

  173. Louis Vuitton handbags

    August 9, 2010 at 2:25 pm

    omg!
    his bag is LOVE!
    very manly and it finishes the outfit, what more can you ask?

  174. Anonymous

    August 9, 2010 at 4:56 pm

    these guys also look slim because they are not fat. i don't know that the darted shirt would help any of my softer, fuller coworkers look slimmer… but maybe… i love the look.

  175. Corve DaCosta

    August 9, 2010 at 7:22 pm

    love this

  176. shapman

    August 9, 2010 at 8:58 pm

    An Italian menswear salesman showed me how to roll up your sleaves like this. Pay attention:

    1. The shirt has to be OFF your body (it is impossible to achieve this while wearing it)
    2. Roll each sleave 4 times neatly using the cuff as a guide.
    3. Put the shirt on and slide your palm down inside each roll to flatten it out.

    Simple.

  177. Ed Kavishe

    August 9, 2010 at 9:56 pm

    Great bag, absolutely agree with you on the darts, but i also think the shirts are also very well tailored, and another thing that most guys forget is to just wear the right size shirt, makes a huge difference.

  178. darlene

    August 9, 2010 at 10:18 pm

    I didn't know anyone made men's shirts with back darts–they're a pretty standard feature on women's.

  179. Anonymous

    August 9, 2010 at 10:51 pm

    I wish I could look like that!

    http://www.whatdoesseanthink.com

  180. Shawn

    August 10, 2010 at 2:32 am

    I like his bag! Where does it come from?

  181. waisted blazer

    August 10, 2010 at 12:09 pm

    Back darts – love them. They make the garment closer fitting and look particulalry good on slim men. Great tip shapman on on getting the sleeves like that. Long sleeves rolled up nearly always look better than short sleaves.

  182. Anonymous

    August 10, 2010 at 7:41 pm

    Today while i was in Starbucks there was an Italian guy dressed like the 1 in the 1st photo, i remembered this post and i thought, wow, they really do know how to dress!
    Love from Dubai (which u MUST visit sometime),
    ✩Stella✩

  183. Christian

    August 11, 2010 at 4:49 am

    Italians like wearing slim fit shirts…as you can see.
    So many shirtmakers make slim fit shirts adding back darts (the easiest way) but only good shirts fit slim without back darts.

  184. SP

    August 11, 2010 at 6:14 pm

    Slim shirts. Not everyone fit so well. Great style ! And body …

  185. Anonymous

    August 12, 2010 at 1:51 am

    Of course clothes looks slim/tight if your body is not skinny and you pick too small size.

  186. Yoli

    August 12, 2010 at 3:06 am

    That first picture has me thinking of many a thing besides fashion.

  187. PersonalShopper

    August 12, 2010 at 11:07 am

    PHOAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  188. Anonymous

    August 12, 2010 at 11:51 am

    I think that the shirt in the first two photos is a bit slim for my taste but especially love the nail head fabric and apparent fit of the fourth photo

  189. sue

    August 12, 2010 at 2:27 pm

    MEOW! hot, hot, hot!
    Those Italian Boys of Summer are Sizzlin'!

  190. Bojan

    August 12, 2010 at 6:57 pm

    This is a great tip with the rolled-up sleeves. Since I saw this few days ago, I’ve rolled up my sleeves like this and I felt very chic! I like to wear my shirts again. Thank you!

    the-stylish-citizen.com

  191. Nickk

    August 12, 2010 at 9:31 pm

    i love italian style, i just wish i could carry it off. being british/polish doesnt give me a great start in dressing like i'm an italian stallion.

    mrvideostyle.blogspot.com

  192. Anonymous

    August 12, 2010 at 10:01 pm

    calisthenics can help your shirts fit better especially a wide grip pullup excerise for the V shape look.

  193. Julia

    August 13, 2010 at 8:12 am

    How cool is that!:-) Nice pics, great style! :-)

  194. impression_soleil_levant

    August 13, 2010 at 10:17 am

    the guy on top is the incorporation of pure sexiness. and so classy.

  195. derek nguyen

    August 13, 2010 at 3:56 pm

    so much sleeker! I This would be such a benefit for skinnier people!

  196. ringtales

    August 14, 2010 at 9:30 am

    my Huz is Canadian so he likes his shirts BIG and loose, but when we were in Italy i insisted he get a deep plum Italian cut shirt, he looks like a Roman god in it. It is a very flattering look.

  197. ikanbilis

    August 15, 2010 at 3:58 am

    i get my shares of Back Dart from Topman.com

  198. Anonymous

    August 15, 2010 at 6:08 pm

    Mr. White Shirt is somewhat sausaged into that shirt – the shoulders do not fit him well. Mr. Blue Shirt definitely understands that good fit implies a good body – nothing smushed in and squashed with pulls and wrinkles under the arms. Yes, darts are wonderful things, but cheap garment construction tries to replace them with lycra – which just causes more of those pulls and wrinkles across the chest and under the arms. A true undersanding of draping, bias cut and pattern engineering is in order and has been missing for years. So sez the grumpy old lady who loves fine fit and finishing.

  199. Anonymous

    August 15, 2010 at 6:11 pm

    Very slim look, though it would be even better if the first guy would mind to iron the back of his shirt as well. The wrinkles seem to be -in- his shirt.

  200. Rob

    August 15, 2010 at 7:48 pm

    For the guy in London looking for slim fit shirts:

    Try Jermyn Street – I know both Charles Tyrwhitt & TM Lewin have more tailored styles, and they both have excellent on-line shops with multiple variations in neck-size, sleeve length and style.

  201. Anonymous

    August 15, 2010 at 9:58 pm

    the guy in the white shirt isn't wearing the right size- it makes him look awkward, not slim. the shoulders are way too close in and it's making me uncomfortable looking at him. good sleeve rolling though!

  202. Pete

    August 16, 2010 at 8:01 am

    I love the blue print on his shirt, looks fantastic. Another factor that helps the man in white look slim, is that it is also a very tight fitting top.But hey! If you have the physique. And a factor which helps them both is that they are both well…slim!
    Still love the look, and wouldn't complain if that was how I looked!

    http://www.realityhypothetically.blogspot.com/

  203. Anonymous

    August 16, 2010 at 10:29 am

    I like the look of the first guy, but it should be said that his shirt is so slim because it's several sizes too small. I wear shirts like this too and I like the look, but I'll eat my Sperrys if his sleeves reach his wrists and he can do up his tie-button without choking.

  204. Nina

    August 16, 2010 at 12:14 pm

    I fell in love with the man in white shirt. Help!!!! Who is he?

  205. Anonymous

    August 16, 2010 at 12:27 pm

    My sons are Lebanese and they too only wear shirts with shaping back darts, they refuse to buy shirts in the US because they feel they are too big and loose. Love both of these images Scott, when are you coming to Lebanon??

  206. Anonymous

    August 16, 2010 at 1:04 pm

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but are those fish eye darts? it looks like it from the first image. It would only make sense, right?

  207. tshanita1

    August 17, 2010 at 3:26 pm

    Looks great to me!

  208. livagostino

    August 17, 2010 at 4:32 pm

    That first man is GORGEOUS

  209. Fred_Passos

    August 18, 2010 at 3:05 pm

    Were i can by a bag like that?!

  210. Anonymous

    August 22, 2010 at 5:44 pm

    where can i buy this bag?! who is it from? does anyone know?

    thanks!

  211. Beverly Bohan

    August 23, 2010 at 1:09 am

    I swear that with all that gel, even a tornado wouldn't mess up his hair. XD They all do look dapper, though.

  212. Anonymous

    August 23, 2010 at 7:05 am

    Classically chic. this is great! I will definitely attempt to replicate this look during the Australian summer…love it

  213. Anonymous

    August 23, 2010 at 9:37 pm

    A business shirt should never be worn without these darts unless you want to look like you're 20 kgs heavier. (My brothers both get shirts fitted in Thailand, as well as Australia, thai= $40, oz= $200)That being said, I do think the white shirt is a little tight around the shoulders, you can see the pull of the material around the shoulders. Half size bigger and the style would have been perfect.

  214. Anonymous

    August 25, 2010 at 9:02 am

    The Shirt is Mastai Ferretti

  215. April~Living the Sweet Life

    August 27, 2010 at 1:45 am

    My dad use to have my mom dart his shirts like this. I love the blue and white dot shirt.

  216. Anonymous

    August 29, 2010 at 3:55 pm

    i am sure those cuffs are ironed too…

  217. Janv

    October 11, 2010 at 8:10 pm

    Anyone know where one can get that beautiful bag? Brand? Label? Please?!

  218. shehstar

    April 4, 2011 at 2:01 pm

    @Marco A. Calamassi
    thank-you SO much for letting me know where the bag is from. i forgot to check back on this post till just now. Orciani's collection is just amazing!

  219. Johnny Styles

    September 1, 2011 at 5:32 pm

    Great images! i saw several dart like that at http://www.gabucci.se store in Stockholm. They were from Alessandro Gherrardi, Barba and Borelli.

  220. Moe

    September 23, 2011 at 7:55 am

    Well here in India, these back darts r usually stitched for kurtis that women wear to give a slimming effect.. U should visit India and check out the colorful style that India has to offer!

  221. http://www.howtogetasixpack.me.uk/

    October 13, 2011 at 3:32 pm

    Wonderful post, I take pleasure in working out.

  222. Steve

    December 3, 2012 at 5:28 am

    The shirt in the first picture is too small for that guy… The shoulders need to be wider. It makes the whole shirt look stretched out and wrong. It’s no wonder the top two buttons are undone, it isn’t just because that meathead wants to show off his chest.

  223. TONI BARCA

    May 21, 2013 at 4:08 pm

    I think both guys are immaculately dressed. I love this casual/chic look –it’s timeless and so refreshing. Guys in the US(Unless they have the money and knowledge) can’t seem to replicate this style.

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