Seriously, all the fuss to change the name, and then you show replicas of Gucci looks from 2-3 seasons ago?
And that hat?
I mean, i love hats, but on this particular runway it looked like a gimnick.
Thumbs down for me!
I am actually loving these photos, as well as the collection.
I am not entirely happy that its not SLP instead of YSL.
I think it’s a very silly move to change the name. However, that’s their silly decision.
??!! There are tons and tons of references to Saint Laurent!! Come on!!! You didn’t notice the saharienne, the capes, the hippy clothing and le smoking inspired suits??!! Also the shoes were a tribute to Saint Laurent style!!
By the way Hedi rocks!
I love each individual pieces, but all put together it is slightly costume-like, not that I don’t like that. A very, very wintery feel for a spring-summer collection, again I don’t really mind but still!
Ultra Parisienne! Hedi has got it so right on his first time! Slightly reminisent of something from Gucci’s Tom Ford era. I love the play on day wear and evening peices. Stefano will be sorely missed but this is Supurb!
I was expecting something modern, tough and sexy. This is so nostalgic that it is almost costume. I feel that I’ve seen it many times over. No doubt the cut it superb but I am underwhelmed and disappointed. It is faux sophistication. Along with Dior this is hardly the “tectonic shift of the Paris fashion establishment”. I do like Hedi and Raf though. We’ll see…
I don’t think this is a very original showing or bold direction. A bit heavy handed, over styled and costumey. Also a shame that they dropped the Yves from the name, (YSL!!!!) yes, we all grew up with it and know that it’s very cool/ insider and Parisian to simply say “San Loran”… but let’s not become so impatient with a noble name! … also saw his ‘slick’ new interior proposals for some key stores… ( I wish Hedi would take note/ elements from the original 70′s interiors: the dark, rich marble floors , Barcelona chaise longue etc.) and get away from his overtly affected Dior vibe for the shops.
although i’m a fan of Hedi Slimane, particularly his YSL mens collections from the last decade, his photography, furniture. ( his Dior days where too much channelling of Raf Simons) However, Stefano Pilati was a fabulous designer for this brand, what a shame. How fickle is this business.
Great to see Hedi doing womenswear. He’s got the YSL vibe jus right whilst being Hedi and keeping it current. Being nostalgic but keeping modern. Its a fine balance and he has walked the tightrope to the other end! Bravo Hedi Slimane!
Ugh. I can’t believe Pierre Berge wanted this! Especially if it reminds anyone of Tom Ford’s days at Gucci/YSL (love that karmic slap though). But Stefano’s 1st show got mixed reviews and then turned into a hit, and then he just kept getting better and better. Time will tell. On a positive note, I do like the safari jacket in 1st photo,a good vintage YSL riff, and I’d love the hat….THIS FALL, not for any summer I’ve ever lived through:)
Very true to YSL, this collection is the closest to my heart, slim silhouettes, chifflon blouses with big “lavallieres”, safari jackets and large felt hats. Beautifully feminine with a touch of masculinity.
Looks more like a fall collection…. so I’ll take inspiration from it this season! It gives me a Carmen Sandiego vibe, which I suppose I love, as a kid of the 90s. I’m blown away by the second and last photo–love the sheer, lace, leather accents–but the rest are a bit meh. I’m not as critical as everyone else seems to be!
Hedi derived from Tom Ford doing Gucci derived from YSL himself. Surely there is too much pastiche in fashion already. Let’s hope for better in the future. Pilate made clothes for women, not just skinny girls. I regret his loss to YSL
It’s Hedi Slimane and as such it’s nice/fun/cool enough but to call it Yves St Laurent does both men a gross dis-service. I agree with many of the comments above; be derivative if that’s what you have to do but don’t call it something it isn’t.
It’s a stale collection, and the styling looks forced. I wanted Slimane to succeed so well in this position, but it seems that he just has to grow into the line and find a balance between his designs and the needs of the Saint Laurent Paris house.
disappointment. thumbs down for me. Season is all wrong. taste level is way down. There’s no more sophisticated-ness, no more easy but ultra chic. All I see is a rock star who has done too much drugs in the morning, hiding behind large hats and threw up so to speak with the clothes. Sad… I just hope the quality can keep up.
I have always seen the YSL woman as a woman who exudes confidence and class, not because she dresses in the way others would want her to, but because she dresses up for herself. She is, for me, a woman of character, a woman of power. She knows who she is, and the way she presents herself exudes her mastery of self.
I am not so sure if the SLP woman is on the same page as the YSL woman I used to know. The mishmash of leather, feathers, and shiny fabric registers a confusion that is so not in sync with the YSL aesthetic.
Personally I think Hedi has dug a little too deep into the YSL archives. I know that everything in fashion eventually comes around again and is reinterpreted but we aren’t ready for this silhouette again just yet. I would have to once again agree with the majority of people here and say that the references to GUCCI and TOM FORD are obvious and quite strong. This seems more like a Hedi Slimane collection rather than a YSL (or SLP) collection. If Hedi wanted his own label I am sure LVMH or GUCCI Group would have been all too eager to oblige!
This collection comes from a man who believes Pete Doherty has long term cultural relevance. Really Hedi? I’m sure individual pieces are lovely but taken all together it was a hot mess.
If he wasn’t behaving like such a baby w/ the press, I would almost feel sorry for Hedi – I doubt he has the creative freedoms we believe he does given the visible support & involvement of Pierre Berge. We’ve all seen what happened to the designers who did not “follow the codes” slavishly – they got the boot. Pierre is living in the past, and making sure everyone who works with him does as well.
It is interesting to see all these comments on this show. It was his first womenswear show and it is well done. But, this isn’t new. My first impression was “Oh, that’s what Tom Ford did with YSL, too much black.” Only a few outfits reminds me at Stefano and of course there was some YSL spirit in this. Hedi is a good designer, because he searched through the archives of YSL.
It is well done, but it doesn’t make my cry. I am not a fan of Hedis work in general (too cool) and really don’t like the store concept (all this rock, black, white, metal, bla bla). I was a great admirer of Stefanos work and i am happy, that he decided to “leave” the fashion business to make “real clothes for real people” with a more classical twist. That’s what he alway did best.
Felt like he struggled to leave his comfort zone. True, safari is a YSL theme but it’s one he explored at Dior Homme…a lot here, in fact, felt replicated, particularly the bows. And I don’t know how half those looks were spring/summer – looked a lot more like fall/winter to me. But I think that gets to his limitations as a trained womenswear designer…it’s easier to tailor and layer fall pieces like jackets than drape a spring dress. Not a lot of innovation…even the collection itself didn’t evolve…just iterations of the same idea over and over. And over. Cool hats, though.
The look and feel reminds me of Emmanuelle Alt and Stevie Nicks. It’s not a bad collection thought it’s lacking of a shift in mood which is what we hope for. Maybe the rock and roll appeal is something Hedi would be focusing in the future since he’s fond of rock music. So this is only the initial statement, not something to shock people. Personally I like this collection. Perhaps I have the same notion as Hedi’s.
Peggy said it really: YSL elements with Hedi’s boyish silhouette. There is a hint of Paris Vogue editor-love as well. I can Alt et al…really getting into it. But I could not help felling redux and redone and well I can go to a Thrift shop and pull the same looks together. It also did look more like fall (but so did Ackermann’s collection – which was truly brilliant!)
I also was very very sad to see only one Black model on the runway. When are we going to address the lack of diversity of models for real. Especially for Saint Laurent! That is a YSL code, Hedi, for real. Let’s bring that one back.
This feels, to me, like a lot of different ’70s elements all tossed in a blender–a little Paris, a little Laurel Canyon (*nods to Monsieur M*), a little Velvet Goldmine groove. Not quite working for me. But M. Slimane clearly knows his house’s elements, and things may shake out nicely over the course of a few more collections.
It is hard to style a hat for runway that can also look natural on the street. These hats were very well received by your readers; I look forward to finding out if similar designs make it onto the heads of New Yorkers next year.
with all respect to mr. Slimans previous work for the teenage body at Dior, this presentation, for me lacked of ‘luxury’ and new inspiration. of course it looked YSL, but so do so many collections these days.
It would have been brilliant to take it a step ahead, a step forward and use the heritage of the house for this, as so many other designers who work for heritage brands in Paris do.
Of course Kate Moss had an fashion orgasm in the front row, but this is what she likes and has always wanted to be; rock chick circa Pallenberg/Faithfull stones period.
Me, myself and I didn’t get that orgasm over this old YSL fanatsy.
Thums up Hedi, show us what you got and do stay down to earth….
Si totalmente en muy Gucci. Ha cogido los iconos de la casa (sahariana, etc.) lo ha mezclado con su estilo roquero de Dior Homme et voile!. Genial, muy aÃ±os 70. Lo del nombre de la firma me parece bien, lo ha modernizado, comercializado y actualizado, asÃ le ha quitado el San Benito de Maison Francesa de toda la vida.
This looks absolutely nothing like Rachel Zoe. I have never ever seen her wear anything even vaguely resembling anything here. In fact she never ever wears hats. Much less this half Sam Spade half Marlboro Man shown here. This is far too tough and urban to even be mentioned in the same sentence as Rachel Zoe. This has a lot of originality like it or not.
I like it. Its wearable, its very different then anything I have ever seen before on a runway. Its very urban and tough, but still very flattering. Its very daring in a time when everyone is doing the boxy 60′s bright color and tons of pattern Marc Jacob thing. I think its nice to have an alternative to the rest of the fashion world which is all alike. I absolutely love the Maltese Falcon oversized film noir hats.
I can see people not liking it. But its definitely not like anything that has come before. Not even close.
Love it! This new collection and new leadership by Hedi Slimane is so exciting! The super chic 70â€²s, True Grit-inspired looks were some of my favorites from the collections shown at Paris Fashion Week this year. Canâ€™t wait to see the direction that Slimane takes this timeless brand.
gucci replicas? i think it’s interesting how fashionable it’s become to critique hedi and saint laurent. no the clothes weren’t ground breaking, but they were still beautiful, true to the house and true to its new designer.
The house will not change until Pierre Berge is no longer involved. He wants everyone to literally relive the glory days with him day in & day out. We’ve all seen what happened to designers who wanted to evolve the house – they got the boot.
Pierre please leave & let the talent do what they need to do.
No!! Why? As someone said before, it just seems as if these creations are re-hashed versions of everything that has already happened in the past few seasons! Dammit, I was so excited, I usually love what happens at Saint Laurent, but not now. This is just very same same…. ca c’est tres triste pour cette maison.
i am most intrigued by the comments that this feels more like a fall/winter collection not for the spring summer. is it a total disregard for seasons because his environment (los angeles) has no proper seasons? besides, spring/summer in the northern hemisphere is fall/winter in the southern
Well, it will sell. But really, it’s not anything that a marketing person working with a brand stylist couldn’t do by looking at old YSL collections in magazines (not even going into the archives) and yes, watering down the looks for mass market consumption. Very H&M/Zara/Topshop-ready. Although will the kids buy the knockoffs considering they’ve been wearing this stuff for a while. And it’s pretty drab (unlike Ford’s all-black stuff, which was naughty). A disappointment. Hopefully HS will grow into the role, but it does seem as if he’s stuck in permanent adolescence.
He did a great job after all the confused years at YSL!
This is a great start, he honored the muses, the history, the founders & parisian style.
Slimane is a wonderful catalyst of contemporary culture and he delivered what YSL is today.
NUFF SAID, and all this critique is just becuase its a controversial moment & fashion peeps loooove to have thoes! Long Live SLIMANE @ YSL!
Frankly, this collection is nice, but is just that. I really think there was no real research in this collection, other than practically copy – paste some iconic pieces from vintage YSL.
It’s really sad that Pilati left the house, he really had a sense of edgy – elegance in all he’s pieces. Always refreshing fashion with new, authentic and chic proposals.
This is nice clothes. Nothing more.