I agree with you. I think Yves Saint Laurent is turning in his grave. This collection has nothing to do with YSL. I can buy those checkered shirts for 40 euros, while they probably cost hundreds and hundreds.
Thats exactly right, how on earth can you charge large sums of money for items that one can get at a vintage store or any ordinary sportswear brand store ( i.e. plaid shirt). This isn’t design nor is it innovation, its a waste of an amazing heritage/legacy of womenswear and haute couture. I wish Hedi had started his own label (these clothes are far more suitable to his aesthetic) rather than messing about with YSL, its such a shame, I want Stephano back…
i think the real translation should be:
‘i don’t know why i’m tweeting this, but i can’t say it it was the worse thing i ever saw in my life so i don’t look so stupid for treating stefano so terrible. i’ll wait til next month to tell everyone what i really think. sorry catherine deneuve for wasting the trip!’
Oh, I am not liking this collection at all. Obviously it was inspired by the slew of young girls revisiting the 90′s and have part-time jobs at Urban Outfitters. Not only does it look cheap and uninspiring in general – it does nothing for the Saint Laurent brand.
As a french girl I really dont get it… it looks confused messy and sometimes cheap. The spirit of YSL is not embraced in the collection. It could be zara or any other mass market brand. I’m extremely disappointed and disilluded.
Anne-Sophie, I can totally agree to your impressions I really tried to see the “line” behind it. But I do not see so much. It looks like it’s all made for Girls going out to party. That’s superfine. But it’s easy to do this style with a lot of other brands like you mentioned. Very sad, indeed.
What the fuck is this? Monsieur Saint Laurent would turn in his grave….
Knowing that fashion should be about forward thinking and innovation….;where does this fit in? Any young girl with a thriftstore budget and some imagination could look better.
Plain awful. Over sized flannelettes worn over floral mini dresses with peter pan collars paired with glittery tights & military boots?? This is not YSL it’s Topshop! So disappointed. I really expected him to turn things around after the disappointment of his debut collection. What was the vibe in the audience after the show? I’m looking forward to Cathy’s review xx
My first thoughts: looks immature and inexpensive. Almost like… grunge came back and I am not ready for it. Sorry guys. I do understand the mixing of hard and soft, girly and guyish, but it just does not work here. I’d like to know everyone else’s thoughts.
The collection is grungy, cool and very very youthful… But that is NOT what YSL (saint laurent whatever) stands for! YSL was the one who put us in suits but made us still feel feminine and powerful. Slimane wants to put us in a c-through slip and make us go to a rave party
Oh so disappointing.
The bar was very high after Givenchy, Kenzo, Sacai, I could go on and on really, but “fripperies” as Beatrice said describes perfectly the lack of soul and creativity that schlumped down that runway. Tant pis.
I dont know where you live but here in Paris no one has been dressing like this since Mark jacobs did his grunge take in the early 90 s I believe it was, the look is old and very very tired , people are liking the tights!! How sad is that? I mean the only thing to like in a YSL show are the tights????
Wow. I had to look twice to make sure this was YSL! Dotto on what others have said here. Looks like Roony Mara does Seattle grunge. I love the boots, but they are not a new idea, nothing here is a new idea. It’s “shopped” around from TopShop dresses, surf shop pendleton plaids and lingerie and stockings from Fredericks. The only newish piece I see is the fur cape/coat. I can get way better, more interesting and inspiring combos from The Sartorialist. Thanks for sharing Scott. This makes you look even better! :)
Simply awful…..agree with others that it looks cheap….YSL was about making women look beautiful….it was romantic and aspirational with an edge…..this collection is all about edge only…is it really too much to ask that women not have to look like sluts? Hedi needs to move out of LA ….YSL is not about the cheap LA slutty look…..
Hmm…. while, as a younger person I’d definitely wear a lot of it (especially that outfit with the light blue asymmetric dress in the first shot…absolutely beautiful), I’m not quite sure what connection it has to the older YSL shows. This could be a good or a bad thing, but with YSL being such an established brand, perhaps staying truer to its roots might have been a better choice?
I’d have to agree with a few people previously who’ve said it looks very high-street/topshop/zara, and that’s not necessarily what you’d like your high-end fashion to look like. If it looks like I could have cobbled it together from the high-street, you’re unlikely to want to shell out thousands of dollars for it.
So very, very disappointing. These look like Courtney Love castoffs and are not befitting of the SL name. I don’t expect him to pay homage to YSL and only do the same silhouettes, same fabrications, etc., but I do expect that a certain level of taste and quality be upheld and this collection certainly does not measure up.
This evokes nothing that says London! Or Paris either. Or style. It is not a nod to what has come before, it is a profane showing that lacks imagination or intelligence. As someone who has seen YSL presentations in Paris, I’m thankful I missed this one.
I think you either love it or hate it but its definitely extreme poles we are talking about it. Whilst his previous season was all about the suit and cut, this season seams to be all about the dress and flowiness, not a trouser in sight (at least in the photos I have seen so far).
I get a feeling of a story and a message through this collection which definitely feels young for YSL but for some reason deep inside you just know that women all ages will covet the pieces…
I’m not a fan. Don’t get me wrong, it’s pretty cool and I have no doubt that the craftsmanship and fabrics are on another level but I look to high fashion for something new and unique. Or at least a fresh spin on something taken from the past. Not only is this too literal but its a look that’s achievable with very little difference on the high street. So disappointed.
These pictures are the fashion equivalent of a bad car crash, I know I should not be looking at the aftermath, but not only can I help looking on, i’m starting to get some kind of sick thrill from it. .
I thought it was more Marc Marc Jacobs by Marc Jacobs for Anthropoligie rather than Saint Laurant. Wow, somehow a collection was created and many people looked at it and thought ” wow, this is great”??? How does that happen??? A Saint Laurant client wants to look like Courtney Love from her days in Hole – really???
After all, I’m glad they decided to remove “Yves” from the name of the brand. Because this collection clearly has nothing to do with YVES Saint Laurent… Some things look fun, but oh c’mon!.. I think it’s sad when tights are the highlight of the show…
Wow! I am speechless. I am shock, really. I was a teenager when Marc Jacobs sent grunge down the runway at the Perry Ellis show and I didn’t get the “fuss.” I am older now and seeing this in a Saint Laurent show makes me curious about the “fuss” that’s about to happen. Who is the new Saint Laurent customer? Would Yves design this if he was younger and living in this time?
Very depressing…I was there for Le Grunge and I can say it was a thankfully brief era of unambitious youth, somber music, and hard drugs. Who needs the reminiscence? YSL could be amusing and pretty lively at times. Not one designer who has tried their hand at YSL since his departure has ever gotten that. Does anyone need clothes like these?
I don’t like it and I’m not going to apologize for not liking it. SL used to be the epitome of all things fine fashion, and this is definitely NOT it. If I can put this look together from clothing I can buy at Wal-Mart for under $100 (you can, I checked) then it doesn’t belong on an SL runway. The models look like they need a meal, a shower and quite possibly a tetanus shot. As with many fads, grunge should be left to the ’90s and hopefully be forgotten. YSL is rolling in his grave right now.
UGLYYYYYYYYYYY!!!! Collection, I mean we are talking about a fashion designer who revolutionized the mens wardrobe and aesthetic more than a decade ago, thats was the main reason Karl Lagerfeld lost weight and He (Hedi) present a “street walker” collection. Is CHEAP AND NOTHING AT ALL RELATIVE TO A YVES SAINT LAURENT WOMAN.
I love it.. you are laughing at fashion right now. Right ? I hope . You will be able to buy these looks at Walmart and Hot Topics, or anywhere cheap. Sorry Saint Laurent. Something went wrong when you lost the “Yves”.. Seriously wrong… and now Balenciaga… Has Paris lost its magic?
Are you kidding me – what is this, Top Shop Unique? If this is YSL then poor Yves is turning in his grave.
A masterclass in how to turn a respectable, old world luxury brand that has taken a lifetime to build into nothing in five seconds flat.
How utterly disappointing.
I feel that this collection is very youth at the moment (reimagining a kind of dirty 90′s grunge) but thats part of the problem, it seems to be expressing something that is already passed its peak.(brands like urban outfitters and american apparel have a similar mood)
Its almost like hes showing people what they already wear rather than what they will be wearing. I’m not sure if that was Slimane’s intention, but it doesn’t feel that way, its just not clever enough. It seems as if he is jumping on the end of a trend rather than initiating a new mood.
Well put. I totally second this. There is no harm in being radical, and creative. But this is neither. It’s repetitive and boring, and the only element of shock is that Slimane dares to put it on the YSL runway. Big deal. Sack him and get someone worthy of the job in place.
I live in a country town in Australia. The young girls around town dress like this, seriously. I really don’t get this collection and I don’t think it is in the essence of Monsieur Saint Laurent. It is pretentious to call this cheap and nasty look fashion. It’s just plain depressing.
It feels very youth at the moment ( reinventing a kind of dirty 90′s grunge) but i think that is part of why it doesnt work. the collection seems to be expressing something that is already passing its freshness, (mainstream brands like american apparel and urban outfitters have a similar mood) rather than expressing an under current cultural shift that is yet to be understood.
I’m not sure if that was Slimane’s intention, but somehow the collection seems to be at the tailend of an overated trend rather than the forefront of something genuinely exciting!
That i think was part of the YSL brand appeal, it was youth, it was not trying to imitate it!
It feels very youth at the moment ( reinventing a kind of dirty 90′s grunge) but i think that is part of why it doesnt work. the collection seems to be expressing something that is already passing its freshness, (mainstream brands like american apparel and urban outfitters have a similar mood) rather than expressing an under current cultural shift that is yet to be understood. It’s like showing us an image of something we have already seen that was a copy of an image to begin with…
I’m not sure if that was Slimane’s intention, but somehow the collection seems to be at the tailend of an overated trend rather than the forefront of something genuinely exciting!
That i think was part of the YSL brand appeal, it was youth, it was not trying to imitate it!
Yves Saint Laurent is turning in his grave. This collection lacks finesse and edge. It will take Francois Henri Pinault 4-5 collections to realize his blunder (if he hasn’t already).Even Hayek was reticent in her praise for Hedi Silmane.
Ok maybe I was a bit harsh. There are some beautiful pieces in the collection but overall it was disappointing. YSL conjures the word “impeccable chic” and yet there is something so clearly lacking. It is sort of clear that there is no synergy between Slimane’s vision and the house he represents.
Ok, I’ll admit it, I like the blue dress under the plaid shirt-jacket with the sparkly tights.
*ducks to avoid furious comments*
But the rest… as others have said, it looks like an attempt to redo Marc Jacobs’ grunge work. And while much of early grunge looked pretty cool *ducks again*, this just looks… tacky, frankly.
OMG what an awful depressing show – depressing because we all so so well what HS is capable of !
We have seen all of this before – HELLO MARC JACOBS FOR PERRY ELLIS
Not shocking, not youth-quaking, just lazy, unimaginative and OLD
Go back to the drawing board and please sit down with your extreme talent and channel a different riff on whats happening today ! There is so much more than re-tread LA rock n
roll scenes who’s looks can be found at every H & M and Top Shop in the world.
This is Saint Laurent !! Do this house justice, in your own way, yes, but do something really truly creative and groundbreaking in the SL DNA
Being a grown up is not that bad for god’s sake
This is Hot Topic and Forever 21. California grunge is a fancy term to cover up a lack of creativity. This is street-to-runway with any imagination or elevation. Sure, everyone’s courting the young crowd today. Bailey, Jacobs, Dundas and Philo have all done great work to make an old brand young and fresh again. But this is epic fail, like hiring James Franco and Anne Hathaway to host the Oscars. I’m totally on Team Horyn!
In what world do you live where this collection is considered “Hot”, “Perfect” or “Classy”. I can easily think of three other words that sum it up in a more precise way and they would be “Tacky”, “Cheap” and “Nasty”! It is only now that I think Pierre Berge regrets letting Stefano Pilati go and hiring an extremely clueless and deluded designer who insisted on re-branding a heritage Parisienne fashion house. Where is the respect? This collection is an absolute abortion and looks like something sold out of a cheap and desperate high-street store.
Scott; as you attended the show and obviously spoke to other audience members… were they as shocked and appalled as the readers of this blog???
Wayde, I couldn’t agree more. This is an atrocity; a direct slap in the face to the House. There is absolutely NO reference to Yves’s sensibilities. I’ll bet Pilati is looking pretty good right now. Hell, anyone would have done less damage to the House. Insulting. I can only imagine what the audience was feeling. I’d like to see some of the ‘important’ reviews, hoping they will trash this monstrosity of a collection. But, sigh, they are only interested in advertising. Power to the people!
One must come to terms with with the fact that the change from YSL to SL wasn’t only a change in name.
The collection is clearly lacking Slimane’s subtle finesse, it looks very ordinary.
Pilati understood well how to interprete YSL for today
Not sure exactly what is trying to be achieved…… are they going for the younger Miley Cyrus audience? If so then high fives. it certainly doesn’t look expensive or well made or based on quality materials, which are things YSL had become known for.
Real shame and a bit of a missed opportunity really.
he he UO – cracks me up – still trying to work out the Australian equivalent …..
I’m surprised most of the comments are so negative. Although maybe I shouldn’t be, because I’ve been looking at most runway collections the past couple years and saying “bleh”.
I like it in general, and its one of the few collections that have even inspired me to go beyond a second glance. I couldn’t care less if it “isn’t (Y)SL”, my selfish desire to see something that is more my style prevails. And honestly I don’t care if it looks a bit high street/commercially accessible – I tire of attempts at revolutionary on the runway. I love the boots, and I love flannel, and I like that they are grunging up more feminine items that I usually wouldn’t wear, but can imagine myself wearing in this way.
I feel that Hedi is playing with us, I don’t think he is a stupid guy. To me this collection in many ways show what we actually see on young girls in the streets today, working in Urban Outfitters or not. All though I love what is happening at e.g. Dior right now, I think it might be a bold move for Slimane to step away from the fantasy of almost unachievable elegance, which though often is what we love about fashion, and make something very high street looking, a kind of mirror of what a lot of young women actually wear. Will be interesting to know the price range of those garments.
I want to cry, for the most important French Maisons, how put fhe High Fashion on the Top of the world!!!. SL,CD,Ricci,Balmain Balengiaga,Givenchy ecc…are DEAD. No more glamour, no more dreams, no more art,no more amazing fashion shows, the most important revolution about fashion is lost… Fashion is visual art!!!.
I want to be positive …. i am sure that John Galliano HEAL himself and APOLOGIZE his terrible and insultingly attitude to be back as the last “savior” of Couture and RTW.
Heidi can do better than this unsightly collection for SL.
This is fashion for the few It-girls but not for a Saint Laurent WOMAN!
Who should wear this? The girlies cannot buy this!
Hedi should go back to take his beautiful Rock pictures .. but not destroy the label Saint Laurent!
I am very disappointed but also I find it very disrespectful to the YSL legacy!
I feel that Heidi Slimane did something that only himself would like without taking into consideration the YSL legacy. Awful and egocentrical. Really hope this is his last collection.
The collection is quite good, I’ve always liked the collections where rock music is the main source of inspiration but I’m pretty sure that this is not exactly the YSL’s legacy. The brand has changed so much in one year, the inspirations are so different and there’s really no ties with the roots of the maison neither Yves Saint Laurent’s creations.
I’m not sure that this is the way that the new Saint Laurent has to take looking forward the next seasons. It is completely a new way, new customers, etc.
It simply doesn’t make me dream. It doesn’t build desire, inspiration and is both far from new and the brand’s sophistication. It represents a girl now, rather than a woman and a look I can have for 10 euros.
It makes me think, as much as designers always say, the woman should wear the clothes, and not the other way round, the clothes themselves should inject some sort of personality into the woman.
Take Marni, Prada, Dries van Noten.
This, to me, feels so haphazard, confused, yet so bland at the same time, I can’t decide if it gives too much personality, or too little, too “high street”, as some have said.
I agree with the most people here. This is really a cheap, unhappy and awful collection where the style and attitude of the YSL universe is absent. All these looks you can buy at the end of the street.
If you look back into the Saint Laurent history, he once shocked the clients in the sixties with his “street style” collections. And so did Slimane now. But unfortunately times have changed and here is nothing “new” to it, when Yves did it.
The “Walk of Shame” Collection? It looks like a bunch of girls clattering home in borrowed coats after a crazy night out. And the 18 year old in me loves that. In fact the 37 year old me likes it too. It’s fun. I’ll muse the assault on the YSL legacy another day.
for me it’s sad… there is no hint of Monsieur Saint Laurent in any of this. and grunge in high fashion has been done and done again.
there is no finesse, no femininity, no innovation. Hedi can do a cool leather jacket, but I miss the Yves Saint Laurent in Saint Laurent.
I wished he had kept the legacy, while infusing his own character and making it modern. a mix. like Simons did at Dior. That was superb to say the least.
this is just disappointing….
It’s interesting to see that the public is in a large majority unhappy with this collection while articles in the press do not express such discontent. Probably because they fear to be banned.. Slimane has created a collection that mirrors the streets and does not try to make people dream about glamour, chic cocktail dresses etc. But people disapprove Slimane’s move. They want to dream, they want to see clothes they will neither buy nor wear. People need fashion like they need art: it reminds them of the world’s beauty and helps them transcend reality. Artists and designers are supposed to elevate us, inspire us. But I guess it’s easier to make money selling black glittery clothes (cf. pre-collection) than turning our whole world upside down, like Yves Saint Laurent did when he introduced the smoking for women for example.
Actually, looking at the clothes again, a lot of the effects are caused by styling. Divest the baby blue chiffon gown of the combat boots and plaid jacket and you have a ravishing little dress. Get rid of the red plaid shirt and you have (after you add a lining) a red-carpet worthy gown. The road-kill cape has to go, however.
i loved the fall collection…wow this is St Laurent i don’t think so..Heidi Slimane inspiration is a “singer” and her inspiration appears to be Courtney Love….chew up and spit out…this show is not worthy of the house of St Laurent
I feel that dropping the Yves was entirely appropriate, after seeing this collection, which is lacking the class and elegance of YSL. A true designer creates trends. It seems that Hedi is trying to imitate and follow the younger audiences, from prominently featuring tattoos and piercings in his ad campaigns to recreating high-street looks already worn by the target age group. Or is it possible that he doesnt even care? Ok, their revenues increased since 12 months ago but this was primarily from people panic buying Pilati’s designs, which the company continues to bring out after numerous communications about them being discontinued.
P.S. The dancer stockings can be found here: http://nudebarre.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=56
My thoughts while looking at this collection: wow he really wants to get fired! I don’t think the collection is young, but is certainly trashy and dated. I for one is really disappointed to see what Slimane is putting out there. I must say I was looking forward to see what he does at YSL but now I think he should leave it to a better and more talented designer interested a bit more in the house and its legacy than himself only…..
I think this will sell like candy!!!! The big issue here I feel, is that this collection is way too American… No Paris chic here….I can see the young Hollywood and all the rock/pop starts wearing this!!! I’m sure the shoes will sell out, and it will be one of the most copied collections ( by Zara, etc…)
The truth is that you can’t hint SL in there…
I can’t believe this was designed by the same guy who revolutionized menswear during his tenure at Dior Homme. Slimane’s work used to be all about modernity, but this looks like it was bought at Forever 21 two seasons ago.
This is the most interesting thing to happen in fashion in ages! When was the last time that you had 200 comments on this blog (with more coming, I’m sure) on a review of a show? That tells you that this show has hit at something. Now you may hate it, but does anyone know how Saint Laurentwas doing financially? Could it be that 8 years of Stefano Pilati’s foregettable collections left the house doing less than wonderfully financially? This stuff will sell like hotcakes. I am not suggesting that the only thing that matters are sales, but I am saying that clothes that are covetable to the young are likely to be a commercial success and that is a good thing for the house. Is fashion not meant to be utilitarian, namely worn?
Completely agree with you Wayde. If that denim skirt costs $2000 there may be a problem, because it’s difficult to tell a Saint Laurent denim skirt from a Zara one. @Bridget Yorke, Alexa Chung and a whole bunch of “It-girls” will be all over a lot of this, I think – they already dress like this. I saw Courtney Love tweet raving reviews of the collection at Hedi. And by the way, as trashy as she may be, Courtney Love can probably afford to pay $2000 for a denim skirt (which echoes my earlier point as well, on the importance of sales). Two other mitigating factors for me: 1) watch the show as a video, these pictures are a little deceptive; and 2) linked to that, try separate the items from a styling perspective. Sell like hotcakes, I tell you.
This is just insulting; the 15 year olds who dress like this already would never dream of paying such prices and the grown women who can afford such clothes would never wear such ugly trash. Quite how this makes sense commercially escapes me. It certainly does not say anything new at all
I love bluses and dresses that just look and feel like spring or summer, it’s like having nothing on… really beautiful, and that blue-grey color, one of my favs for every peace of clothing.
Great designer, wondeful work.
Has anyone thought about the fact that the ladies who dress like this (and to be honnest tight little leather dresses feel kind of 4 years ago for me) will not even be able to afford the ÂŁ1000 + price tag?
Also, it’s very incoherent. One second it’s quite girly with bows and and sparkly dresses and then the next sexy black leather?
In order to take an iconoclastic approach to the legacy of a fashion icon like Yves saint Laurent, one needs to be at eye level. Mr. Slimane is not.
The result is a collection that is irrelevant for 2013 and highly embarrasing for the house of Saint Laurent.
I don’t understand why we need a flannel shirt from Saint Laurent? What’s the point? Is that really what THAT brand should communicate? Anyone can do that,
What everyone cannot do, not without skilled artisanship, is push fashion forward and make exceptionally crafted, unique, luxurious clothes. That, to me, is what is SO insulting about this collection. With no budget, no limits, and the best support staff, we get a highly styled but ultimately derivative and boring series of LA vintage looks. It completely misses the point of RTW at this level. And for that reason, I actually found this collection cowardly and a waste of time.
I’m not sure this collection even deserves the debate that will ensue. I was a big fan of Slimane at Dior and I am truly saddened by this abomination of a collection. It’s too literal an interpretation of grunge, there is no design here. It’s styling. Stephani Pilati not having his contract renewed was a big mistake. I was really annoyed with Tim Blanks’ review on Style.com too as he sat on the fence. Looks like it’s up to Cathy Horyn again to be honest and say what we are all thinking. It’s a truly sad day for YSL…. truly sad.
I couldn’t wait to see the collection of Saint Laurent and then I almost cried watching it. That’s not Saint Laurent at all/anymore… Don’t get me wrong – I don’t mind making changes BUT changing the spirit of the brand is disrespectful. YSL was all about characteristic feminine elegance with male self-confidence. YSL was about nonchalant chic. Where is elegance here? Where is chic? There is nonchalance only but in a bad, cheap taste. From high fashion I expect interesting design and sophisticated tailoring. This isn’t high fashion.
I am not amused first of all we take the “Yves” out of “saint Laurent” which is akin to having a bacon butty without the bacon and THEN we produce a pathetic mishmash of trashy nonsense that isn’t even new and is certainly NOT big or clever….Why don’t you just dig YSL up and kick him in the head? This is awful. I could watch the video of Guns n Roses singing “Live and Let Die” and meander through the YSL archive and come up with something better than this in half an hour…utterly appalling and not in a SHOCKING way just BAD!
all this talk of grunge and high fashion, grunge and high fashion in the same sentence seems like a contradiction. if anything grunge was anti-fashion. Kurt Cobain was right when he said rock music was becoming nothing but a fashion statement anymore, I can already picture all the lame rich kids in the big cities wearing hundred to thouasand dollar articles of grunge-y type clothes, trying to seem high fashion and careless at the same time. go to the damn cheap ass thrift store!
also, it’s very telling when an artists is working for the audience and not themselves. either they are not courageous enough, or want easy praise, or both, and it has failed here
Actually the financials under Stefano Pilati were very good with 2012 +40 vs 2011. It will be interesting to see what ends up in the stores from this mess. I’ve been a consistent buyer but can’t see paying hundreds of pounds for something that looks as though it has come from Urban Outfitters. I wouldn’t mind change (though I do think Stefano was hard done by) if it was genuinely new, but I have been seeing this stuff for years, it is not interesting
I hated this collection, see earlier comment, if you care. But really, I thought it was dumb and uninspired.
But guess what. I thought about it more and more and finally, I think I started to be inspired by it. Not that I like grunge and sparkly tights and tiny dresses. No. It just has something super liberating. Something loosening up, going beyond the “stiffness” of high fashion, the super-duper-always-having-to-be-put-togetherness. So there I find myself throwing on the long knit scarf and checked shirt, and biker. but mixing it with more refined pants.
Quite puzzling. Because as a collection it has no aesthetic appeal to me. But there is some element of inspiration that it seems to have, which is surprising. It brings out all those strong reactions, and maybe that’s the whole damn point Slimane is making. Mixing it up. Creating chaos. And taking that as the starting point for what’s next. Maybe?
An admirable try Sascha but this collection just does not seem to carry on the YSL spirit……YSL was subversive but with a true artistic element….think of his Mondrian dress….or his Russian inspired collections from the 70s….he had modern snd ethnic influences but with a true sense of elegance and beauty….YSL also used ethnic and black models…where was that in this show? YSL would never send a woman out looking like trash or a bag lady….maybe it is in the execution of the runway show. If you see the latest collection in the stores many of the pieces are quite beautiful. But the runway show is meant to tell a story and present the aesthetic. In that sense this show was disappointing especially for those of us like me who still have original YSL pieces in their collections or have seen his house in Marrakesh and his influences and were inspired by YSL’s wonderful and glamorous vision for women…..
Didn’t like it always in every collection in every brand not only YSL like i see in many collections during F/W show they always present the black. its very boring and i see what this one tried to mix together but that is not the Winter cloth normal human kind can wear during fall and winter it have to fall in the category of the season. If it’s not the winter cloth nor any other season than it is not a cloth!
The major element that is missing for me in this collection is the display of technical excellence that you revere from a house like Saint Laurent or Chanel et al. The individual pieces that shine and indicate that these are the best cutters in the world…the best embroiderers… the display of artisanship that you can get no where else. If Slimane is saying that all of that is old fashioned and not part of the future of YSL, then why would anyone choose to pay $1000 for a ditsy floral dress that she can get from Urban Outfitters for $29? In fact, the girl that would be attracted to this style is not going to be able to afford $1000 for a dress, irrespective. The ‘Grunge’ revival will be able to be replicated very cheaply from a local thrift shop. Give your customer a reason to shop with you – something new – something amazing – something exciting. Today I saw no reason to shop at Saint Laurent, for which I felt a little bit sad.
Love Slimane taste outside this gig. Aesthetics aside, Hedi is clearly going for a COMPLETE different audience. How did he manage to get that far in market terms, is what seems to be completely ABSURD. I can not picture ANY of his garments on an luxury costumer. Soooo forever 21. Courtney Love is not a fashion ICON even in LA.
The show is following the general trend of darkness, maybe ‘punkness’, for fall and perfectly encapsulates the Cobain style, 90s grunge inspiration that was apparently a huge part of Slimane’s mood. He did what he set out to do.
With that said, the collection is very different from what Pilati did at Saint Laurent and is definitely shocking an audience used to what he has done during the past years. I am personally not crazy about it, but I look forward to seeing what Slimane will do in the future at Saint Laurent. This is was a bold move on his part.
It’s really interesting to read everybody’s reaction to this collection. I don’t know what to think about it… It’s not YSL at all (I hate that they took the Y out of YSL btw!!), no doubt about that and at the same time Slimane breaks the YSL code/image, which is interesting but in the end I think the DNA of a Couture house prevails and in this case the DNA has been slaughtered!! I wonder how this reflects on sales, whether they are stable or dropping? I’m a huge accessories gal and…hum…the new YSL accessories are…hum…super boring!!
Perhaps Hedi was giving the fashion world a big FU? Last collection utterly derivative. This collective utterly nonsensical. This is not the work of a talented designer no matter what his vision. So what gives Hedi??
I think Saint Laurent AW 2013 is one of the best highlight in Paris fashion week recently. While most of the other brands beginning to look pretty much the same with their voluminous shaped jackets or blazers. Hedi Slimane interpretation on posh grunge is unpredictable, definitely separate and underlined SL from the rest of shows. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to unveil what’s underneath those layer of flannel shirts, hidden some luxurious designs. Perfection is overrated and rebel yell! A smart approach to entice the young generation.
We need from the runaways in Paris the creativity and glamour in pieces well executed. This season Saint Laurent not only showed things for young girls but they look affordable clothes people can buy at Zara/H&M/Topshop. That’s exactly what makes us mad. Many of us cannot get items from the big Luxury Brands of Paris Fashion Week but we stay tuned in search for inspiration.