Tuesday, June 26, 2018

On the Street…The Fortezza, Florence

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I love the subtlety of good menswear tailoring and all of the codes and signals that go with it.

 

For instance, I love how subversively this young man is dressed. To the naked eye he’s just dressed in a suit but I see a guy that has buttoned his jacket on the bottom button (shocking) and notice the sleeve of his watch hand is unbuttoned while the other sleeve is buttoned.

 

Don’t think that he didn’t know exactly what he was doing! He totally knew and only the guys at a place like Pitti Uomo would notice.

 

I see you Mr Subversive

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25 comments

  1. RJH de la Haye

    June 26, 2018 at 5:13 pm

    Wouldn’t mind seeing the full-length version!

    • Charikleia

      June 28, 2018 at 9:21 am

      Me neither, I think the shoes are of paramount importance!

  2. enimyou

    June 26, 2018 at 7:20 pm

    And perhaps the subtly makes it feel more subversive. Not an obvious external statement smothering convention, but a sort of internal gesture slicing into it. Well crafted slippage well spotted.

  3. Imani

    June 26, 2018 at 7:38 pm

    I’ve never been so turned on by a tie before.

    (Great commentary, Mr Sartorialist. You bring my attention to details I would not have noticed otherwise. But I know nothing about menswear so this is my contribution.)

  4. countyd

    June 26, 2018 at 10:24 pm

    That’s precision dressing. Love it! The look kicks off with the color of the suit, is bolstered by the fit, (the patch pockets elevates it from the normal business suit) and the subtle color selection is perfect. I actually tried the unbuttoned-watch sleeve a couple weeks ago. I don’t think I gave it a fair shot. re-do coming up. As for the bottom-button thing .. I’m all for it. Know the rules, then break them with aplomb. That’s how you do it.

  5. Fatou

    June 27, 2018 at 12:18 am

    I love this look! Sharp
    xx
    https://closettostreet.com

  6. andreea

    June 27, 2018 at 3:28 am

    the modern math teacher look! :)

    http://littleaesthete.com/

  7. Monica

    June 27, 2018 at 4:28 am

    So stylish!

    xx
    MĂłnica Sors
    MES VOYAGES À PARIS
    NEW POST: SUMMER LOOK

  8. Mireia

    June 27, 2018 at 5:08 am

    That’s true! That buttoned bottom button looks so strange actually!

    Mireia from TGL
    https://thegoldlipstick.com/

  9. Amy

    June 27, 2018 at 11:27 am

    LOL! Love it.

  10. LoveCompassionateLee

    June 27, 2018 at 9:54 pm

    Great insight Scott!

    I’m here for the suit. Olive is my favorite color option in any season.

    Happy Wednesday
    http://www.lovecompassionatelee.com/thinkoutloud/new-and-noteworthy

  11. Grim

    June 28, 2018 at 1:18 am

    I don’t know why more men don’t leave their watch sleeve unbuttoned; I’ve done it for years and it enables ease of movement. The other alternative is of course to go Agnelli and wear the watch over the sleeve…

  12. ASOW

    June 28, 2018 at 1:37 am

    oh, handsome!

  13. John

    June 28, 2018 at 3:01 pm

    What a tie! What a suit! Wonderful!

  14. Ally64

    June 30, 2018 at 1:23 am

    The olive suit is the epitome of cool.
    The sleeve button is good, but I’m afraid the bottom button thing is an affectation too far.
    Silhouette is definitely more important, to me anyway.
    The collar spread on the shirt is just so.
    Can’t help wondering about the trouser cuff shoe combo?

  15. Kern williamson

    July 1, 2018 at 3:57 am

    Wow, looking Dashing
    #Nyc
    #osm
    #Grt

  16. Addison DeWitt

    July 1, 2018 at 4:38 pm

    I agree, Scott, lots of info for the sartorial semiotician to decode in this superbly tailored outfit. Would love to know which house and which cutter was behind this masterpiece of a suit. It may be Neapolitan or (my guess) one of the Japanese apprentices trained in Italy who are now surpassing their masters. So much more going on than just functional (surgeon’s) cuffs: wider 3-roll-2 lapels; higher notch and gorge; con rollino shoulders (the wider, fuller sleevehead gathered so that there is a bit of a puff of fabric rolling up from the shoulder seam (lots of handwork involved); the doppia impuntura at the shoulders which is echoed on the collar, lapels, and around the patch pockets (the handsewn double-backstitch swells the edges of the lapels while giving reinforcement to what is otherwise a very lightly constructed garment); double front darts behind the patch pockets, one of them extended from the chest down to the hem (allows the chest to be fuller while the waist subtly nips in close to the body); the fabric itself, which looks like a tropical weight — a wool, silk, linen mix, perhaps? Please let us know who built this practically perfect specimen of the art, Scott. Oh, and the rest of the look is great, too — cutaway collar, slubby silk tie, the vintage shades, haircut, even the stubble — and gold wedding ring and restrained watch, no other frou-frou to clutter up this elegant presentation. Bravo!

  17. George

    July 3, 2018 at 3:56 am

    I think it’s a perfect look and I love it!.

  18. Topol

    July 3, 2018 at 2:54 pm

    What strikes me is the slim silhouette and excellent fit. Using the bottom jacket button elongates the opening and his height. I seldom button the shirt cuff over my watch because the cuff wouldn’t go over the watch otherwise. I suspect that latter bit is more out of practicality than style.

  19. Pontus

    July 4, 2018 at 7:17 am

    Seeing ties getting wider is a welcome relief to skinny tie austerity. A return of panache.

  20. laracroft-club

    July 5, 2018 at 7:59 am

    The colors are amazing! This suit is making him so neat and manly. And the tie…

    http://laracroft.club

  21. Belle

    July 9, 2018 at 5:34 am

    Very, very chic. The tailoring at the shoulders is nice and loose too, and makes for a more casual, summery look.

    http://www.thislifeisbelle.com/

  22. Kanchipuram silk Sarees

    July 11, 2018 at 11:20 am

    nice post

  23. Riya shah

    July 12, 2018 at 6:08 am

    The leather messenger bag is amazing. It brings out the style statement

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