Friday, August 31, 2007

On The Street……..That Fan, Florence


I see this gentleman often at Pitti and he is always beautifully dressed.

I love the sleeve length, pant length and overall fit of the jacket. The slimness of the jacket and pants actually creates a lengthening effect. I would maybe try a slightly more narrow tie and smaller collar on the shirt but that is personal choice.

Notice the upper sleeve, over biceps, section of his jacket – I always try to get that sleeve section a slight bit more narrow. It really finishes off the overall long, slimming effect of a slim cut suit. Look at Astaire, his sleeves in that section are always very narrow. It is a very small detail but one that always stands out to me when I watch Astaire movies.

To the opposite effect, if you are narrow this is a good spot to create a wider visual.

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31 comments

  1. simplyolive

    August 31, 2007 at 9:43 am

    WOW, i haven’t been on your blog for a few weeks, and you’ve posted some great pics!! (i can’t possibly comment on them all.) site-seeing in italy takes up all of one’s time… :)

  2. WendyB

    August 31, 2007 at 10:06 am

    Fabulous.

  3. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 10:40 am

    Can anyone say “Karl Lagerfeld”?

  4. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 10:55 am

    As opposed to the previous post “On The Street………Those Shoes, Florence ” in this case this gentleman is really very elegant; indeed the restraint is used here and only one smart detail such as the contrast collar shirt is present. The remaining portion of the outfit is very sober( matching cream, blue and brown colours) and the suit has a splendid cut that comes very likely from a neapolitan tailor (see the high notch lapels , the very natural shoulders , the high armholes and the slim fit of the trousers).This gentleman knows how to be elegant but sometimes seems to forget to right way beeing too much overstated.

    Angelo, Genoa – Italyizqynqt

  5. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 11:14 am

    This suit looks better than the previous one,but it the proportions are still a mix.The jacket is too long for him.He simply looks over dressed.

  6. Cleboul the Frenchy

    August 31, 2007 at 11:22 am

    I am like you … I prefer smaller collar tie reverse of pants also ! Nice shoes !

  7. amed studio

    August 31, 2007 at 11:39 am

    Bravo! This is a much more flattering choice for the gentleman than the db, in my opinion. The trousers (and jacket sleeves) are cut just so – maximizing elongation for a figure of short stature.

    I would add that shortening the waist and the length of the jacket about two inches or so would shift the visual centre of gravity upward, another Fred Astaire trick that adds attenuated elegance.

    In Japan, men do not coordinate their fans with their clothing, but rather choose subtle colours and patterns as demonstrated here. But wouldn’t it have been fun to have created some tonal relationship between the shirt/tie combo and that dashing cross-cultured accessory?

  8. carlo

    August 31, 2007 at 12:26 pm

    i agree with the length of the pants, this is how i want my pants! I might actually take this pic with me when i pay a visit at the tailor.
    Thank you!

  9. Butch

    August 31, 2007 at 12:28 pm

    Like the suit, even if the jacket is a mite long for him.

    And I’m liking more and more (do my eyes deceive me here?) the wide pants cuffs–that finishes them/ tells onlookers that the trousers are MEANT to be shorter.

    But it’s the fan that REALLY makes the outfit….

  10. chris berry

    August 31, 2007 at 12:30 pm

    This guy has got it down to a T. Perfect hair and attire. But on the collar and tie, I always go for a high collar stand with a little spread and a longer point and a nice thick and crispy tie (sounds a lot like fried chicken doesn’t it?!!!).

  11. Laguna Beach Trad

    August 31, 2007 at 12:39 pm

    Very nice suit. I agree with you, Sart, the tie is a little wide. Beautiful shirt though, and those suede loafers are wonderful. It’s not often that I see a fan used as a gentleman’s accessory.

  12. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 12:45 pm

    Looks good and better then the DB. However i agree with the sartorialist in that the collar and the tie should be smaller and narrower. That would be a better proprtion since he has a rather large head. Also the jacket hem could be a little shorter and trousers a little looser to balance the upper half. that said, still very well done. keep it up!

  13. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 12:48 pm

    Yup, I knew he was “closet quirky.”

    BTW, the wider tie provides a nice counter-balance to all the slimmed down tailoring.

    mltt

  14. Curious

    August 31, 2007 at 1:52 pm

    Sart, what’s the heritage of this gentleman? In the previous related entry, some of those commenting wrote that this fellow was Japanese. As I recall, though, you haven’t written anything about this gent’s ethnicity. I am curious to know.

  15. Suz

    August 31, 2007 at 2:10 pm

    Nice to read what you’re seeing, Sart. But I still need another half an inch of pants length.

  16. Thomas

    August 31, 2007 at 2:37 pm

    This man has a ridiculous collection of amazing suits. I’ve been looking for a good double-breasted for a while, and of course his is fantastic. This suit isn’t shabby either – but the fan is a little too affected for my taste. Another point for the men of indiscernible origin.

  17. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 2:42 pm

    A more colorful pocket square would set off the outfit a bit. The white one gets lost.

  18. Candid Cool

    August 31, 2007 at 2:55 pm

    He’s an impeccable dresser no doubt. I’ve been thinking about carrying around a fan too, especially for when I’m outside in a stuffy tent. I wish I hadn’t broken the ones I had when I was a little kid.
    -h

  19. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 4:27 pm

    I’m this man’s fan. This fellow knows how to dress, and impress. Fine fabric, perfect cuffs, sleek silhouette. Most important, he clearly enjoys it all. Bravo.

  20. tereneh

    August 31, 2007 at 6:01 pm

    So chic and I love the mix of the well-tailored masculine suit with a ‘feminine’ hint of the fan, a stylish but also practical touch. What I love about European style is that they are often not as narrow in their thinking of what is masculine. More and more it seems American men are learning this as well. Sarto, your comments of the cut of the jacket is wonderful, I love how you notice those details. You are a one-man fashion revolution I hope our lovely American men continue to take note.

  21. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 6:05 pm

    whoa that is a big tie and collar!

  22. Anonymous

    August 31, 2007 at 6:46 pm

    Karl Laerfeld is an ossified mummy compared to this man (or most humans). This gentleman looks happy and super stylish.

  23. Jesse

    September 2, 2007 at 2:39 am

    It’s a good look.

    Although his shoes reminds me of a certain Tod’s loafer I like that is so elusive.

  24. Off The Cuff

    September 2, 2007 at 9:01 am

    Wonderful suit and a great overall outfit; I especially like the shoes, an elegant choice.

    While I think the shirt collar is fine, I agree about the tie. I somewhat overwhelms the shirt and jacket.

  25. Anonymous

    September 2, 2007 at 9:17 am

    Isn’t this guy emulating Valentino? Even the shoes. Elegant anyway!

    Love your website!

  26. lewehrman

    September 2, 2007 at 9:14 pm

    He is like a character out of a Wes Anderson movie.

    The cut of the trousers in the db pinstripe suit is very classic 60′s.

    I love him. He makes me happy.

  27. Anonymous

    September 3, 2007 at 8:07 am

    The dark hair and again the dark shoes and in between the light colored suit plus pants kind of frames him and makes the man look even shorter than he already is.Maybe a shorter haircut would fit this outfit better. If he would wear jeans and some sort of casual shirt the long hair could be ok.

  28. Charmaine

    September 4, 2007 at 12:40 am

    I adore the fan. Like those drawings of samurai gentlemen — a little lethal and quite elegant.

  29. Anonymous

    September 4, 2007 at 5:17 pm

    The tie that ate Milano……

  30. The Great Gatsby

    December 4, 2007 at 11:38 pm

    wow. Must be one picky dresser. He looks real good though. Anyone who says otherwise has no sense of fashion and taste–yes, you euro haters.

  31. Anonymous

    November 13, 2009 at 7:59 am

    YES If you are an asian or amerindian man and you have these gorgeous blueblack straight hair!

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