Friday, October 17, 2008

On the Street…So Simple, Milan


I know what he is wearing is very simple, not remotely directional or even bespoke-ish but I would love to look this cool in a suit someday.

I would love to tell you “well he looks great specifically because of…blah, blah” but there really isn’t one thing that stands out – it all is just so well played – the “unstyled” stylish haircut, the slightly rumpled wool suit, the casual dark navy knit tie, the sporty watch, and I would be willing to bet that he is wearing a Brooks Brothers buttondown (unbuttoned-down notice!) shirt.

As I keep looking at this image the only thing that I can keep coming back to is the fact that his clothes just fit him so perfectly. He could wear exactly all the same items but if they didn’t fit on him as well as they do then this would not be such an inspiring photo.

You can do it guys, you can get this look with a $500 suit -just make sure to spend the extra on having it altered.

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78 comments

  1. mimi(cigalechanta)

    October 17, 2008 at 10:16 am

    I totally agree with you but I must add, the man is very attractive. Like the French women, the Frenchman can buy an inexpensive suit, but have it altered to their bodies. That is one of the secrets of their look.
    I sold men’s suits in Brooks Bros and was amazed how many of my customers boiught off the rack and no alterations which gave them all that baggy look.

  2. Björn

    October 17, 2008 at 10:17 am

    Well, when I click on the picture and view it in full-size it’s somewhat obvious that this is a bit more than $500 suit. (btw, it’s also obvious that the gent “dresses to the left”!)Not necessarily bespoke or mtm but certainly not the cheapest. No cheap suit looks this soft and has this well behaved lapels.

    I think the key items are the knit tie, Italian tone-on-tone look and the fact that he is not shy to use the side pockets. Cool.

  3. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 10:18 am

    The vintage Rolex 1675 GMT on his wrist sets the look off perfectly!

  4. Dan in Richmond

    October 17, 2008 at 10:19 am

    I’m not feeling the inspiration this time. I bet you’ve already looked cooler than this in a suit.

  5. CK Dexter Haven

    October 17, 2008 at 10:24 am

    Hard to tell about the fit from this image, but i’m sure we’ll take your word for it.

    I don’t see anything of interest here, though, aside from his face. He sorta kinda maybe reminds me a little bit of Steve McQueen. Sorta.

  6. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 10:24 am

    paulnewman-esque comfort.

  7. kfromz

    October 17, 2008 at 10:24 am

    Funny that you think he looks so awesomely cool and everything couldn't fit him better. He's definitely a very well-dressed, good-looking man – but hell, stroll over Zurich's Bahnhofstrasse for an afternoon and you'll see tons of men like that looking at least as good! (And don't get me wrong – I don't think all men in any kind of a suit are good looking – of course the fit&feel is crucial!)

  8. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 10:25 am

    Quite a handsome fellow. I agree, a suit does NOT have to be expensive, of the bespoke genre ONLY!!

    I also cannot take my eyes…off that exquisite ring on the hand that appears on the left.

  9. The Sartorialist

    October 17, 2008 at 10:27 am

    Bjorn
    I didnt say that he is wearing a $500 suit but could you really tell the difference if the suit was $500 or $1500 without inspecting it very closely? I don’t think most people could

  10. The Sartorialist

    October 17, 2008 at 10:27 am

    Bjorn
    I didnt say that he is wearing a $500 suit but could you really tell the difference if the suit was $500 or $1500 without inspecting it very closely? I don’t think most people could

  11. The Life and Times of a Southern Foody

    October 17, 2008 at 10:35 am

    You are so right!

    From the AMEN CORNER of the South!

    A real gentleman

    honest

  12. DNA

    October 17, 2008 at 10:36 am

    Well, the man is husband of Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni.

    no wonder!

    He does have a perfect balance of discipline and ease.

  13. Ashley

    October 17, 2008 at 10:59 am

    He’s VERY attractive.

    And I’m 24-year-old.

  14. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 11:05 am

    I completely agree with you sir: I think the gentleman looks absolutely spectacular– and I think “classic” is more appropriate to describe his style.

    He’s so naturally and effortlessly put together, it’s a relaxed elegance, never a caricature of an identity in that when I look at the image, I see a refined and elegant gentleman instead of thinking “Great suit” or “Great jacket”, just a naturally stylish presence that could be from 1967s, 1978, or 2008… Timeless elegance.

    BTW, I think he’s wearing Armani :-)

    –PLO

  15. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 11:20 am

    He reminds of Bill Blass.

  16. L & K

    October 17, 2008 at 11:51 am

    What a handsome man! Sigh. The overall effect is very striking and as you say, not particularly about the brand or cut of the clothes. This is a case where the sum is indeed more than the whole of its parts.

  17. metscan

    October 17, 2008 at 12:13 pm

    I have to disagree Sart with you on this one. I don´t think he looks cool. The blue suit isn´t interesting,it´s crumpled and another color might suit him better. I think his hair is too long and thick in the back. Well,that´s my opinion.

  18. Björn

    October 17, 2008 at 12:18 pm

    Sorry Scott, I did not intend to put words in your mouth. The reason I brought up the dollar amount is that I think that the quality of the suit contributes to the look, in a subtle way.

  19. Karel

    October 17, 2008 at 12:34 pm

    @ Anonymous
    The vintage Rolex 1675 GMT on his wrist sets the look off perfectly

    How can you tell that’s a 1675?
    Might as well be a regular 16750 GMTII pepsi..

  20. The Sartorialist

    October 17, 2008 at 12:51 pm

    bjorn
    yes the quality of his suit is noticeable.

    thanks for your input!

  21. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 1:04 pm

    To me, that suit looks plenty ‘bespoke-ish’. Particularly the sleevehead. It does look rumpled and beat up, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was a quite expensive suit.

  22. Paul Pincus

    October 17, 2008 at 1:31 pm

    you’re so right. perfect.

    he’s great-looking too.

  23. Laurens Turo

    October 17, 2008 at 1:43 pm

    I think that what the sartorialist is pointing out here is very important. You don’t have to spend a lot of money to look great, you can look great with clothes that are less expensive, just make sure that they fit and combine. Anyone can go to a stylist, give him/her $5000 dollar and say ‘make me look stylish, give me an image’, but people that can get that look on sale in department stores or second-hand shops are far more inspiring. For example; the last picture in the September 2008 blog, the asian gentleman with the pink toe-caps. By enlarging the picture I got a strong feeling that he had painted his old shoes himself. Maybe not, but those are the kind of things that inspire me and admire.

  24. Lily London

    October 17, 2008 at 2:10 pm

    Sorry Sart, what am I missing here?! Why would you want ‘to look cool in this suit one day’??? Depends on your defination of cool I guess. Yes he is well dressed, but nothing inspirational, defining or extra-ordinary about it. I saw a photo of you recently wearing a great suit, and you had more ‘cool’ in your pocket hankerchief than this guy.. very Thom Browne meets Fred Astaire I thought..

    • dcinDc

      November 5, 2012 at 5:14 pm

      Thanks, Lily, I too am “missing” it here. He’s a regular guy in a suit. The overall effect is nothing special. He looks like a guy who wears a suit all the time, and doesn’t think about it; it has become his uniform. People use “effortless” a lot on this blog. I think they use it in the wrong way. There’s effortless and then there’s didn’t make any effort. When I put on a suit, it’s a special occasion, and I put mega effort into all the details. There are no details here. It’s blue, blue, and blue. Any male can put all blues on. I don’t see why Scott thinks he looks “great”, and don’t know how he can tell the suit fits him “so perfectly”. I guess I shall remain… mystified.

  25. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 2:14 pm

    Scott, can you recommend couple of clothing alteration shops in NYC? -thanks

  26. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 2:19 pm

    As another poster stated, difficult to judge the fit of the suit with his arms crossed.

    Given the shoulder, lapel, and the gorge height, that suit is not Armani.

    I like the overall softness of the clothes, soft suit, soft shirt collar , knit tie. Not sure how I feel with the contrasting brown buttons with a suit, definitely pushes the suit to the more casual end of the spectrum, so it is in keeping with the softness, at least.

  27. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 2:27 pm

    It doesn’t hurt that he’s stunningly handsome.

  28. Dominica

    October 17, 2008 at 2:36 pm

    Handsome man, I think he was a also a beautiful guy in his younger days … but I prefer him like he is now, just like a good glass of wine…

  29. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 2:58 pm

    the only secret..he knows himself

  30. Angel of Fashion

    October 17, 2008 at 3:53 pm

    Apart from the suit fitting him well he obviously spends some time at the gym. Fashion can help you only as much. So to every guy out there, consider investing into personal trainer, then worry about suits and their alterations.

    • dcinDC

      November 5, 2012 at 5:27 pm

      “…he obviously spends some time at the gym…” Don’t know how you decided that. He’s not noticeably overweight, but that doesn’t mean he’s ever seen the inside of a gym. Europeans aren’t nearly as fanatical about that as we are. I’d be surprised if he works out at all.

  31. Jingoist

    October 17, 2008 at 4:05 pm

    That’s the key (alterations)- I do it to all my suits, pants, etc. And I seldom spend extravagantly for the clothing itself.

  32. -h of candid cool

    October 17, 2008 at 4:46 pm

    he reminds me of tad bit of steve mcqueen.
    a very handsome man. and im with you on the alterations. fit is everything.

  33. Segun Obagbemi

    October 17, 2008 at 5:21 pm

    The gent is rocking what I have come to term the “Italian Mens uniform” i.e. tone-on-tone of blue. He has an easy elegance about him…the clothes are not ‘wearing’ him!

  34. Anonymous

    October 17, 2008 at 6:07 pm

    Suit looks well made, with nice details such as pick stiching on the lapels, probable function buttons on sleeves (surgeons cuffs), and it also looks like he has roped shoulders (see how the jacket sleeves rise slightly above the shoulder).

    Still, I think fit plays more of a role than the cost of the suit.

  35. Eugenio

    October 17, 2008 at 6:19 pm

    I love the brown buttons on the suit, and the navy knitted tie is fantastic.

    Very nice, very Italian.

  36. indigo warrior

    October 17, 2008 at 7:17 pm

    There’s something very George Plimpton about him, isn’t there? Maybe it’s the slept in the suit thing? I don’t know. He looks like he spends time thinking about something other than perfection in a suit. It’s the age, I think, men seem to develop circulation above the waist at a certain age, and *that’s* when they really get interesting.

  37. kendall

    October 17, 2008 at 9:29 pm

    his face is (slightly!) reminiscent of klaus kinski.
    handsome man. he looks excellent.

  38. Carlo

    October 17, 2008 at 9:44 pm

    How do you get those heavy creases on the pants? very thick…I like

  39. andrea.at.the.blue.door

    October 17, 2008 at 10:36 pm

    The visceral reaction is, I think, that he is wearing the suit, not the other way around. It’s a damned good suit, though- it has to be for him to be able to cross his arms like that and not have the suit look like it’s attempting to strangle him. It’s rather endearing that he clearly has a bunch of stuff in that one pocket.

    The hair style, my young chicks, would have been considered a bit fast when he burst upon the world as a responsible adult. I think it has held up well as part of his look.

  40. Zoé

    October 18, 2008 at 12:04 am

    He’s greating looking and stylish too. Very casual Italian look.

  41. farhad

    October 18, 2008 at 3:24 am

    the only thing that I would add is that his pants are a bit too high waisted. but then again, I’m very picky!!! LOL!!!

  42. Sophie

    October 18, 2008 at 9:14 am

    Meh, I just don’t go for the whole rumpled, baggy pocket thing. I’m not sure why, as that’s basically what my husband looks like in.

    I like the fabric though.

  43. Anonymous

    October 18, 2008 at 10:37 am

    Rolex and Mario Caraceni suits that mold to his body bespoke to look off the peg

  44. Mark P-H

    October 18, 2008 at 10:57 am

    i agree with eugenio–the brown buttons are great… just enough contrast without being garish

  45. Anonymous

    October 18, 2008 at 12:03 pm

    You hit the nail on the head. There is not ONE THING that stands out, no intricately looped and knotted scarf, no lavender shoes or man skirt. Just a grown man dressing well. We could use a lot more.

  46. Nicolo'

    October 18, 2008 at 1:24 pm

    Very nice and very good looking. Tipical Milanese. His family are important fur traders (may be for Fendi).

  47. Anonymous

    October 18, 2008 at 1:39 pm

    I don’t know about the suit or tie, and I don’t care for watches but he is certainely a very handsome man with beautiful eyes.

  48. Anonymous

    October 18, 2008 at 4:40 pm

    I always think Consuelo has the best taste – and this is her husband, which just confirms my view!!

  49. Anonymous

    October 19, 2008 at 12:20 am

    People…allow me to point out that this gentlmen OWNS Marni (Gianni Castiglioni ..). His family has been in the fashion industry for generations (they are also manufacturers of fur, not only for Marni but many other famous brands).
    So yes, he looks fab as Italians have a way of doing.. but he’s not just your average Milanese. I know, I lived in Italy 20 years…
    Constance

  50. mohammad

    October 19, 2008 at 8:19 am

    I think there is good match between his hair cut, face, suit, tie and shirt. because all of them have good background but they didn’t take of completely in this photo. I bet when he has fresh hair cut and new suit it’s not going to be good as it is right now. This is beauty of style that sometimes surprise you

  51. Fashion Articles

    October 19, 2008 at 10:12 am

    Hmmm well he do wearing a nice suit but tie?? I think his tie is too dull and very true in his whole attire nothing stands out.

  52. Meander

    October 19, 2008 at 11:35 am

    oh God he is dreamy!!!

  53. Ryan

    October 19, 2008 at 2:03 pm

    Scott- I live in Westport, CT and was wondering if you know of anywhere around where I could get my suits altered to fit like this. Recent grad… not too expensive please!!

  54. Miguel

    October 19, 2008 at 5:50 pm

    Very interesting indeed… I love the Rolex.

  55. Holy Cuteness

    October 19, 2008 at 6:17 pm

    Simple but nice. Less is more.

  56. jessicadrhp

    October 19, 2008 at 7:59 pm

    alterations must have contributed to this look. Depends how ‘cool’ is defined..I think you mean ‘with ease’, and that is something this gentleman has acheived.

  57. Anonymous

    October 19, 2008 at 8:44 pm

    I must agree the man looks very stylish, yet in a sober way. The picture is inspiring by the fact that the suit fits him so surprisingly well when it comes to physical proportions – which is vital for being good-looking in any outfit. The way this man looks is music for the eyes.

  58. Lola Is Beauty

    October 20, 2008 at 6:32 am

    He is Gianni Castiglioni – husband of Marni designer Consuelo. Very cool, definitely expensive, probably got a bit rumpled in the chaos before the Marni show though…

  59. Anonymous

    October 20, 2008 at 9:26 am

    I think Constance needs a couple of more years in Milan. This gentelman looks very “milanese”, his hair cut, his watch, the blue suit and tie, and light blue shirt.

  60. Tomasz

    October 20, 2008 at 10:16 am

    Wearing simple, well-fitted suit is somthing that men in my country don’t understand. Every day I see dozens of men wearing really disgusting, polyester, unfitted suits. I don’t understand why. Buying good suit is, I think, the easiest thing in the world!

  61. monique

    October 20, 2008 at 10:36 pm

    He looks like he stepped out of a La Nouvelle Vague film from the 1960′s. Or perhaps, specifically Un homme et une femme (Claude Lelouch). The hair, the suit, the attitude. The picture looks like a movie still.

    Great shot, Sart.

    I dig it.

  62. nyc/caribbean ragazza

    October 21, 2008 at 5:45 am

    I agree. He is wearing the suit not the other way around.

    Of course it does help that he is molto bello.

  63. Marianna

    October 21, 2008 at 10:16 am

    This is exactly why I am in love with the way (most, or some) Italian men dress. They just exude an incredible sense of style, and like you say it’s not bc of a specific item or detail of their outfit- it’s just a whole, and Italians are the best at creating the sense of elegant “wholeness”. Plus, most of the time those who dress well have a certain way of speaking and behaving which makes it that their body language and voice is even classy. Sometimes I feel they are born with a style gene or sthing.

  64. Anonymous

    October 21, 2008 at 3:36 pm

    Inspirational. I look like that every day. Fitness is the key. Wear the suit. Move like if you’re not wearing one. Follow Cary Grant advice: “Relax. Relax all the time.”

  65. Ann (MobayDP)

    October 22, 2008 at 7:48 pm

    it’s confidence. I suspect this fellow could wear a simple white T-shirt and blue jeans and still manage to look like he just stepped out of a GQ magazine.

  66. Anonymous

    October 22, 2008 at 11:39 pm

    He looks like David from Six Feet Under in 30 years, no?

  67. lil´ german

    October 26, 2008 at 1:42 pm

    Just to enjoy… After walking through a little german town this man gives to me the hope that somewhere outhere in a place far far away there are elegant people.

  68. Anonymous

    October 30, 2008 at 8:25 am

    No way is anything about this man inexpensive but it’s all unselfconsciously stylish and elegant. Like breathing.

  69. katia

    November 2, 2008 at 2:01 pm

    I couldn’t agree more with you! this man has such natural elegance

  70. Kebabette

    November 2, 2008 at 4:16 pm

    Wonderful look, it’s a real art to make a suit look so easy. He reminds me of Jeremy Irons, who has also become more attractive with the patina of age …

  71. Anonymous

    November 3, 2008 at 9:46 pm

    I know what he is wearing is very simple, not remotely directional or even bespoke-ish.
    ————

    But this is what it’s all about, isnit? Simplicity! The blue button down shirt, the dark tie, and by the way I tend to think the suit IS bespoke. The only thing that doesn’t work for me here is the sporty watch(!?). Good for diving maybe but not with a suit.
    xavier

  72. Anonymous

    November 5, 2008 at 4:01 am

    Very ‘milanese’
    ————-
    Quintessentially so. Anyone who knows anything about Milan, the world’s CAPITAL city of men’s elegance and style, should know the fundamentals at work here. Light blue button down shirt. Preferably Brooks Bros. A tailored suit, milenase style, too long to describe the nuances here, and a dark tie. As for the shoes, dark brown suede, often. It’s a uniform.
    xavier
    .

  73. Anonymous

    November 21, 2008 at 5:50 pm

    The suit is bespoke. It has working buttonholes on the sleeves, handf picking on the lapels and distinctive roping on the shouldersd.

    It is a bit rumpled because he is crossing his arms and leaning against something.

    The buttons are fabulous. No $500 OTR suit has those kinds of beautiful horn buttons.

    Having said that, the man needs a much better barber.

  74. Anonymous

    June 17, 2009 at 10:03 am

    I think the key ingredient is the man's cofidence-he knows that the suit fits him. It is not anyone that can pull this look.

  75. Will

    November 15, 2013 at 6:18 am

    I think this chap looks very sharp in this picture. I have always been a fan of the roped shoulder. I love the soft detailing at the top of the sleeve head where it puckers, classic Milanese finishing on a bespoke suit.

    Will

  76. mm

    November 20, 2014 at 4:41 am

    he is Italian 100%, and not French. French men don’t dress and don’t look like him ! I’m Italian and live in Paris, and promise, French men don’t have this look at all.

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