I like the fact that a young man is dressed – but for this outfit to work he needs a more Fall like tie and pocket square to complement the sweater. Or keep the square and tie and go with a different sweater.
My first thought was also old-time Shanghai. I’d love to see a sleeker-toed shoe, but overall I really like this look. He looks very dapper. This is something I would step out in (with a different sweater more my color).
The look is perfect. His expression compliments the whole look. I think the proportions and color palate are fantastic. The pants and shoes are a bit wider and more rounded, but that is the look his is going for.
He looks devastating, really fabulous. There are suits and there are SUITS. This is one of the latter. Quibble about ties or hankerchief if you must but this guy rules – check out the tilt of that hat!
the suit is genius, all of it. his jack fits him beautifully,it’s refreshing to see the classic fit executed so well. the tie seals it, giving just enough vibrancy to keep the aesthetics from turning to mush. without it, the sweater could potentially break the composition, but as is, it provides the perfect amount of bill cosbyesque and modernist flare. i also love that he has connected the coat, hat, and sweater with the recurrence of the camel-hair/tan.
and the pants, they are the anchor. they provide such stability, rigidity, they serve him in accentuating his, and the suits, masculinity. i love the skinny-cuts, but they would detract from the look here.
his shoes take him from looking like a dapper dan man, and place him in league with the gangsters. i am enthralled. they command respect, and reinforce the unspoken threat, ‘you mess with me, you get my foot up your ass.’
a very authoritative, very badass, look. i just wish his pocket square wasn’t so large.
This kid is one of the regulars over at the Fedora Lounge. Those people don’t care about fashion, they care about *vintage fashion.* I think this explains some of ever-so-slightly off styling cues; the odd choice of pocket square, the “clownesque” shoes as another poster pointed out, and so forth; they were (I guess) perfectly stylish “back in the day.”
He looks extremely sharp, if not a little overdone. However, in context of what anon 3:27 said, some of his extreme choices make more sense. I would definitely do a huge double-take if I passed by him on the street.
Come on….some guys who claimed to be “italian said, he could not get the pants cut?!” Are you that absurd? It was never the norm that tight Dolce Gabbana-ish trousers was the template of the art of male TROUSERS!
Honey, go get some traveling done….maybe ENGLAND and then you will see some amazing trouser CUTS!
This guy was very deliberate….that’s what made it sooo SEXY!
What I like best is that his look is thoughtful, but not overwrought. Also like the camel overcoat and how it plays off the sweater. Sure his pocket square looks like a regular handkerchief… but if it were silk color-coordinated with a higher-end tie, he’d look like he was trying too hard. To me, the best looks have a special something that’s a little off-kilter.
Sad how many of the men here hide behind the curtain of anonymity while firing their barbed comments at this sharp dressed man who is in tune with his style what looks good on ‘him.’ The ladies are much more intuitive with their constructive feedback and see his style for what it is, a ‘satorial cut’ above the usual street garb of baseball caps, tee shirts and badly fitted denim jeans. I’m sure I’m not the only one to find this fellow totally inspirational and motivational and to echo the upbeat comments of one of our earlier feedbacks, “I’d give him a second look in the street!” (meant in a very positive way). Style and fashion don’t always make very easy bed partners but Ray’s ‘look, cut and dash’ is very classic and stylish and he carries it off impeccably whether on the streets of Manhattan or St.James. Well done Ray for flying the satorial flag with fervour! I must check my wardrobe now, as you’ve set a benchmark there! Paddy Middleton. (Fedora Lounge)
long-time lurker on this blog who just had to comment on this picture: this is such a classy, vintage look, it’s lovely! I agree with a commenter above: it illustrates the difference between style and fashion and it’s quite evident that this man has embraced a style that evokes a bygone era–but makes it work for today. If I were a man (and didn’t live in the tropics!), I’d dress like him, I think. :)
oh my god, LOVE it! the color palette, the cuts, his attitude… HOT.
like some who have commented, i also really like that the cut of his pants is a little wider – it’s different and VERY refreshing to the eye. sometimes seeing something different and new is good. same with the toe of his shoe – that is a detail that, when i first saw the pic, i thought, awesome! love it! it just gives the whole look that little twist of originality. i’m personally sick to death of pointy-toed shoes.
to whomever questioned the references to shanghai – you’re suggesting that it might be racist, but that doesn’t seem at all racist to me. shanghai in the 1930s was super-cosmopolitan, with people from all over. yes, people might be saying it because this guy is asian… but there is something wrong with looking like you’re from 1930s shanghai? i don’t think so… i think it’s a big compliment. (and i say this being asian myself.)
and on a final note, if his outfit is at all corny it’s in a 1930s gangster/pachucho way, not a young republican way…. no offense, but the style cues are totally different! :-)
yeah, i was curious about the old shanghai comments. i might be looking too much into it, but it’s almost alike his ethnicity is an accessory…that being said, i was immediately wowed by this pic. his youthfulness contrasts the maturity of the outfit, but comes out with the rebelliousness angle of his hat.
I have looked at this pic quite a few times. On first “blush” it looks cool. Old school made new and current in its souvenir of Shanghai. But there is a “Bugsy Malone” aspect that I find troubling.
Not a tall man and that is a rather big hat. The light colour also tends to give the hat more emphasis and perhaps too much weight at the top.
I think the sweater peeking out from under the coat is a mistake. It draws my eye to his lower stomach. Kind of inelegant to be compelled to look there. I want to look at his face, eyes, tie, shoulders, waist, legs and shoes.
The pants seem to be cut like those worn by sailors traditionally. The shoes as well seem to be naval in origin. OK I guess, but does kind of make me scratch my head and wince, just a little.
I do like his confidence and sense of himself. He has pushed the envelope in a few directions and has been pretty successful overall.
i love this look. i would have done a different tie, but overall, this is magic. i don’t think enough people have commented on the beautiful color of his overcoat. i love the camel. also, i love that his pocket square is so bright. i think it ties in with the fedora nicely. overall, he looks so sharp and i love the elegant air about him, in his clothing, his smile, and the backdrop you chose to frame him in.
The shanghai comments make sense because of the hat and the cut of the pants. Also if he’s Chinese there’s a pretty good chance he at least thought about old shanghai fashion. Don’t get all worked up, people, it’s not a big deal.
A big round of applause for Ray. Great effort. He still looks like a boy and so he’s not quite there yet – his outfit makes me wince a little too – but in a few more years and a few more dollars in his pocket, he’ll be quite the charmer.
Just a few hints for my friend Ray – Those shoes look great with jeans, not with a suit. Go and buy a nice pair of English welts. While you’re at it, get some fitted trousers (the same goes for the jeans) – we Asians are thin – flaunt it. We can’t be wearing boot cut or wide-legged anything. That’s FOB style not new style. Finally, nix the vest – it looks like a handmedown from gramps, or a bad choice at a vintage store. Tuck that square in a little bit and lick those brows. Now you’re on your way.
Fabulous. I’d be honored to have him amongst my circle of interesting people.
I’m amazed by people who are nitpicking this outfit as if it were a selection that he’d pulled together – from garments he’d purchased retail – as a stylish, well-dressed man off to his office.
No, this is a costume, meant to be performative. Meant to evoke, yes, 1920s/1930s Shanghai (or Wong Kar wai’s leading men, at the least), but with a twist. That is why someone above mused about precisely where he’d be going in this outfit. There is no “real” place but rather whatever places, situations, encounters a mind imaginative enough can construct in response to his performance.
It’s an experiment that ought not be perfect. The proportions shouldn’t appear right to our eyes. Something about this outfit should seem off in a way that works to make him stand out. He shouldn’t be wearing slim, pointier toed shoes nor slimmer trousers. That would be an outfit you’d actually buy and wear in real life. The performativity of this outfit reminds me of my college days when I had no choice financially but to assemble the most creative, interesting, (and yes) slightly off looks from thrift store finds. And given that lack of financial resources is what drove me to the thrift stores, alterations would have been out of the question.
Collective opinion so far is positive for this young man, but its just “too vintage” in my opinion! This look could have worked more in the late 80′s and early nineties maybe but who could remember that far back…… LOL. The origin is of course even earlier in time but todays menswear is really ALL about proportion. slimmer & narrower is much better & newer looking I think. When it comes to suits the shoulder, the lapel and trouser cut reveals modernity. this is just too old skool in my perspective. Gangster/Mafiosa on a little boy’s frame. ???? I do however like the sweater and tie choice. Adore the hat & camel coat & tie pin! The trouser’s width is just too wide for my taste. It killed it for me. A narrower leg & a better shoe would have done wonders. Props to the wide cuff though. Fit is key!
I live in the same dormitory as this fellow and have seen his wardrobe from time to time and am glad to say that he is most consistent with this style. He is most natural with a pipe and I am very pleased to see this image gracing the Sartorialist, for he is representing an Old World mentality which deserves a resurgence within youth culture.
I am such a stickler for a top coat, car coat to match what you have under it. For me a blue suite needs a blue, gray or black coat, a camel or brown coat should be used with earthtones. I think the young man is on to something though, he will be truly wonderful as he matures and really knows his style. Trying at a young age is such a nice thing to see.
Someone mentioned, not a big man but a big hat. Well we need to get over this big/tall man thing. The other thing is that this is not a big hat, the brim is small but the crown is high. My preference is for a lower crown but when the brim is smaller the crown will always appear to be taller. The hat is fine, I applaud the young man for having the guts to wear a hat, not everyone can pull one off, he does just fine on this count.
Pardon me for using this comment space for a more general purpose: I Just wanted to say Merry Christmas and a Happy new year and to thank you for your great Blog which although I personally discovered relatively late, has been inspiring in many ways (far beyond the way I dress and look at other peopleâ€™s clothing). I admire your eye for details, your passion for fashion, the space you give to diversity which in contrast to the common fashion dictatorships, brings freshness and warmth. Keep on the great work and more important keep on having fun with it!!!
There’s not enough focus on minutia here. How important, for example, is the tie collar bar? And the pocket square, aggressively exposed? The lack of a feather in the hat pushes it into the middle distance: is this necessary? Also, it’s difficult to tell the length of the jacket’s sleeve. It would be dispiriting to find it too long. The collar and pocket square demand the showing of cuff.
Against the naysayers, the trousers and shoes are perfect. Anything else would be banal. The gentleman is not tall, and his features are round. The shoes reflect that appropriately.
Very well-done. I wouldn’t mind it if he loosened his collar, dropped the tie a quarter inch, and lost the collar bar. Currently, the tightness up there is a bit out of sorts with the softness of the rest of things. Finally, I understand the peaks in the pocket square (picking up the diagonals in the vest), but it wouldn’t hurt to have just a bit of a silk square the color of garnet just peeking above that pocket.
Love the pants, the shoes, the fair isle vest, the “too-big, too-light” hat, and the plain handkerchief. Modern perfection (sharp suited, pointed shoes, slim pants) can be intimidating; this guy has style and it’s all his own. He’s so cool, and it looks like he’s barely trying. Count me as someone who doesn’t mind the costume-y aspect. He looks great, and he looks like an individual. I’d strike up a conversation with him any time. Awesome find, S!
Yes, slimmer fitting pants and pointy toed shoes would look more modern. Who says he WANTS to look modern? So many anonymous bloggers out there have nitpicked his outfit and how it “fails” because it’s not conforming to some fly-by-night dress code the fashionistas have made up for the week. I’m so sick of tight pants and pointy toes, I could choke. Would you naysayers all prefer he have a shag hair cut and a heroin addiction too?
He’s chosen a classic style with a classic cut and fit. This isn’t a costume–it’s the way he dresses regularly. People are asking where he’s going? Does it matter? He looks fabulous. If you don’t like his pants cut, then don’t buy a pair for yourself, but don’t bash his taste.
If you’ll notice most of the women are drooling over him, while the metrosexual fashion nazis are giving him the once over. If I had to choose between Ray and another carbon copy clone of indie rock fall-out, I know who I’d pick in a second. You can sweep me off my feet anytime, Ray.
The comments here often freak me out with the level of nitpicking and criticism for any outfit that doesn’t exactly match what is often an elitist view (and I mean “elitism” in terms of both financial but also cultural capital) of what fashion looks like. (And often, not so incidentally, this often turns out to reinforce certain notions of masculinity and femininity — my girlfriend dresses like a bit like this, and I’m sure I wouldn’t want to read the terrible things commenters would have to say about her clothes, though she looks completely at ease and totally hot in them, and about her choice to wear menswear. Yeah, I’ve seen the gender policing that happens in here.) This kid’s look is innovative, personal (and apparently familial), and stylish — and we should all be so lucky to wear the clothes that fit the movies we’d like to find ourselves living in.
Grats to the Sart for being able to see what makes this kid awesome.
wow, ray. You look sharp! Watch out ladies! Kudos on brining such impeccable style. (I twitched at the shoes a bit though…they are a little bulbous, and don’t seem quite as stream-lined as the rest of the ensemble.)
This is a nice look of another era…and that’s all there is. That’s all I would have said. But comments implying that this is “a ‘satorial cut’ above the usual” and the Right way of dressing mercifully shown here to us mere mortals make me want to comment further.
I’m sure there are men dressing like this who could be taken seriously but this just isn’t the case. I’m sorry, but on this face and body frame this just looks costumy. Members of the subculture that love to ridicule fashion slaves aren’t aware that they themselves are slaves to fashion that is old. They even wear it from head-to-toe like all fashion slaves do.
I’m happy to see a fellow london lounge member. The look is great as everyone who knows him personally or who is a member of the londonlounge will know from his photojournal.
There is no problem with the cut of the trousers, its just his style, nor with the style of the shoes. As others have commented, its either the tie and the handkerchief with another sweater or the sweater with another tie and handkerchief. I also think the hole between the collar and the notch lapels is somehow too wide and looks awfull.
I also wear hats very often, and I just bought myself a borsalino black fedora that looks fantastic.
hat: great, but could be a bit shorter and the band width a little less. It is not proportionate to the close fit of the coat. coat: I absolutely love. I agree with some others, he pulls off the classic suit so well. pants: I like the cut, the width. I think the skinny pant style is meant for Eastern Europeans. To pull off the skinny pant you should be both slender and above average height. sweater: beautiful! It is not so much different, but a nice use of an old friend. tie: it doesn’t fit well. Next to the sweater it just looks out of place and does nothing for the pocket square. pocket square: I agree with others, it is a little too large. Complements his shirt, but no relation to the tie which detracts from the unity of the outfit. shoes: the bulb toe is not proportionate like the hat. A finer pointed toe would look splendid.
Overall, a nice ensemble. I’d say it is “Old Hong Kong meets Old Shanghai.” The suit fit and style is Hong Kong while the sweater adds a nice touch of Shanghai.
You can go out in any large city in China and find men on the buses and subways dressed liked this today. It’s a style that fits Chinese men well.