Monday, May 14, 2007

On the Street…Conservative w/ Flair, Milan

In menswear the little details make all the difference.

When I first saw this gentleman’s look I thought it was nice, that is, until I noticed the little pleating detail on the shoulder of his jacket.

Now I think it is totally cool.

I love it when a detail that is done to make a garment fit better also makes for more interesting design.


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  1. ojhofer

    May 14, 2007 at 7:15 am

    Yes, nice detail. The pleats will allow more forward movement of the arms. The pleats are both clever detail on an otherwise boring, regular suit and device for ease.

  2. Butch

    May 14, 2007 at 7:42 am

    Not to mention the color of the trousers!

  3. Gouljan

    May 14, 2007 at 7:54 am

    Personally, I would have never even thought of noticing this detail. Wow, what an eye!!

  4. Anonymous

    May 14, 2007 at 7:55 am

    That picture of the pleats is a classic!
    I love his suit nonetheless because of the different threads in it (horrible fashion language, sorry). He can pair so many things with it.

  5. william d. anderson

    May 14, 2007 at 8:54 am

    this guy has some great things going for him…the jacket and pocket square are great. and the glasses are wonderful for him. i’m impressed…but i’m also wondering…if he knew enough to get all of those things to come together so well, why did he choose to let his tie fail so badly. its the right color, pattern, scale…its all fine, but its tied soooo short, and that knot…good god. if he had gotten that right, he would have really made an impact…no?

  6. Anonymous

    May 14, 2007 at 10:00 am

    What is the name of such an item? (the coat)

  7. Anonymous

    May 14, 2007 at 1:06 pm

    The tie is way too short. But nice detail.

  8. E.H.R

    May 14, 2007 at 3:56 pm

    I’m curious here about the reason for the pleats? from reading thomas mahon did a post once on how the shape of the shoulder requires more fabric on the back side then the front, and a good tailor carefully eases the fabric into the seem so that they end at the same point. This was his explanation on why a pinstripe suit would never have the stripes matching up. It seems to me like these pleats accomplish the same thing, but in a less sophisticated way. Or maybe its a design statement? can anyone fill me in?

  9. Look

    May 14, 2007 at 8:57 pm

    Looks like a herringbone pattern with plaid underneath…? Cool stuff.

  10. Chris Berry

    May 14, 2007 at 10:43 pm

    William D. Anderson wanted to know why this man had tied his tie that way. It is a very specific knot which italian men in particular (also European men) tie which creates “la sorchetta” (referring to a man’s dimples when he smiles or to the folds of a woman’s intimite area). This knot is also called a Pratt knot and it is difficult to keep it from becoming asymetrical whihle maintaining the integrity of the two dimples. If you look closely at the dimple on the viewer’s right on his tie, you will see what I mean. It is a knot which has been fashionable for as long as men have been tying ties.

  11. CK

    May 15, 2007 at 12:56 am

    hm.. wonder if the tie is from Princeton.

  12. Anonymous

    May 15, 2007 at 8:03 am

    call that knot whatever you want, but it is still badly tied and too short. I wish everyone would stop justifying bad clothes, looks, by claiming it is Italian or European.

  13. Alice Olive

    May 15, 2007 at 10:08 am

    I just love this photo. The depth of field is superb. Beautiful.

  14. Anonymous

    May 15, 2007 at 1:33 pm

    When it comes to tie, i personally prefer my tie worn just like this. It may not be acceptable, but i feel so comfortable wearing my tie this short.

  15. stefano g.

    May 15, 2007 at 10:52 pm

    I get the feeling this man knew precisely how he wanted to evince that tie.

  16. Vee S

    May 16, 2007 at 2:44 pm

    Sorry to move the discussion back to jackets, but the pleats on the jacket are common seen in traditional English hunting jackets.

  17. savvylondon

    May 18, 2007 at 7:41 am

    exquisite detail. LOVE the wide tie. too many skinny ones lately.

  18. Vee S

    May 18, 2007 at 9:46 am

    I finally remembered! Its called a “sportback”!

  19. Anonymous

    July 15, 2008 at 1:41 pm

    In response to his tie being tied poorly or too short, I would have to disagree. Both the asymmetric tie knot and the back blade of the tie extending longer are prime examples of sprezzatura. He has an air of nonchalance, but still well composed.

    Look at the the cut of the jacket and the double dimple as evidence of his sartorial competency.

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