I dont know what to think about this collection. It was smart and unexpected, I have not doubt about it. But I wont call it beautiful. Actually this collection was Ăşnique and it took Nina RicciÂ´s “style” into a new terretory.
Everyone was waiting for this and I’m so pleased he received such warm applause.
Basically, I thought it was promising, but not as exciting as last year. I think he overdid the spiral a bit, although it is a lovely effect. There were a few skinny suits that reminded me way too much of Ghesquire’s brocade ones from several seasons back, which I thought was a big misstep.
On the upside, I really liked the overall look he achieved with the slouchy, big tops with skinny pants or a long skirt. It was a wonderful combination of informal/formal, tough/tender. And a Long Skirt! I love wearing them and no one else showed any for daytime. And, of course, that dreamy palette of his is luscious.
In the future, I hope he reaches back for some of the edgier Belgian stuff he did early on. There was a hint in this show that he might be able to blend that with the tender romanticism that he has been doing the last few seasons. And that would really be interesting.
Great show! His cut and color sense is so unique, so Theyskens. But maybe that is too strong for Nina Ricci. I think he needs to take the house in a different direction and have his own label to showcase his unique Theyskens view. Love him. And Scott, yo ucannot be grounbreaking with each collection, especially when in a transit phase from one house to the other. To me, just keeping it so good is enough at the moment-let him find his stride. Too much too soon will lead to burnout.
Without a doubt, I think the smartest move the house made was Reese Witherspoon wearing Olivier’s collection at the recent awards’ ceremonies. She got so much attention especially because of her recently-single status and looked fabulous. I was all the more curious to then see the full collection. No, it’s not as romantically beautiful as some of those dresses at Rochas, but still quite feminine. Mind you I remember reading a Vogue article (good old Plum Sykes) debating the wearability of some of the Rochas dresses (the Monet-inspired designs) and I did wonder if his new designs for Nina Ricci would be as stark and dramatic or would he be asked to make a ‘safer’ collection etc. It will be interesting to see what he does next!
He was maybe a little bit too shy but how were the opportunities leaved by financial tenants !? I appreciated very much ROCHAS but I thought that in Nina Ricci’s house he can put a new energy like he made the revival of Rochas.
I thought it was great. You never know how much pressure the designer is under to do more or less of this or that by the people who own the label (who can have their own very firm ideas about the direction of their label). Olivier is one of the best and look forward to seeing more from him.
I’m still reeling from the shutdown of Rochas. Olivier designed some of the most moving–not just fashionable–pieces I’ve ever seen. It’s sad that even in a creative and idealistic industry like fashion, money comes before quality.