Friday, September 14, 2007

New York’s Best Collection….Rodarte








So, I knew Rodarte was good but I didn’t realize they were THIS good.

They hit the mark on almost every element I look for in good design – color, pattern, texture, construction and design details. It was easily the most sophisticated and refined collection I saw all season. I was talking to Sarah from Colette afterwards and she also seemed equally thrilled.

I have even more respect for this collection because I personally know how difficult it is for a young designer to actually physically create such an intricate collection on a limited budget.

Often young designers can conceive great work on paper or in their heads but to find a workroom (an outside contract workroom at that) to physically create those designs (on a usually limited budget) can be the most challenging aspect of the entire design process.

So which collection did you enjoy most?

Of course, the images above are borrowed from the fine and handsome photographers at Style.com

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  1. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 9:18 am

    Hands down -Zero Maria Cornejo. Beautiful, unfussy, a strong point of view.

  2. T.D.

    September 14, 2007 at 10:09 am

    I thought Jill Sander was very good. Very Wang did a very refined and wearable collection, as always. And then we almost always can depend on Marc Jacobs to pull something cool out of the bag. His collection, the backward presentation presentation and the cool shoes are pretty awesome.

    As for the men’s, Thom Browne was interesting but John Varvatos and Costume National are what I would like to wear comes next spring.

  3. Candid Cool

    September 14, 2007 at 10:24 am

    Interesting designs no doubt, but maybe it’s just me but it reminds me of food wrappers.
    Like the 2nd dress reminds me of the foil of gum wrappers and the skirt the plastic that Ritz crackers come in and the 3rd looks like the paper that holds muffins.
    Bizarre & interesting…
    -h

  4. sk

    September 14, 2007 at 10:52 am

    well as a sixteen year-old, I don’t know much about high fashion but I’ve been going on style.com religiously for the past two years and this season I really enjoyed Bill Blass’s collection (the dresses were so light and airy) as well as Narcisco Rodriguez (I love the cut of his clothes).

  5. Carolina Lange

    September 14, 2007 at 10:58 am

    Beautiful! I also liked Preen and my favourite was Luca Luca!

  6. sugarxnspice

    September 14, 2007 at 11:14 am

    I really like Marc Jacobs this season! the use of colours and the cuttings.. it’s just so unique and quirky and a good surprise!

    Oh yes Rodarte looks pretty amazing here, definitely very eye-opening and imaginative.

  7. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 11:21 am

    Let us not forget the amazing Isabel Toledo for Anne Klein. A real triumph.

    Zero and Preen for sure!

  8. Leigh

    September 14, 2007 at 11:21 am

    this was hands down one of my total favorites of this season in terms of inventiveness and originality.

    i also really enjoyed anna sui’s use of color and marc jacobs’ use of crazy. i still love him in spite of it all.

  9. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 11:27 am

    I like those… Those sisters are good!
    I loved Zac Posen

  10. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 12:10 pm

    I’m so happy you said that- I thought I was the only one so I believably excited by Rodarte collection. It was just fantastic, certainly the best.
    I liked the Narciso Rodriguez and calvin klein collections- very simple, very much what I imagine to be american chic.

  11. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 12:21 pm

    Am I the only ONE that doesnt GET Rodarte? I find their clothes to be so ugly and unwearable, it looks like a Project Runway challenge gone wrong…

  12. Iheartfashion

    September 14, 2007 at 12:35 pm

    Proenza Schouler and Isabel Toledo for Anne Klein! And Phillip Lim for great wearable basics, if not tremendous innovation.

  13. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 1:15 pm

    i’m not a girly girl but monique lhuillier made me covet almost every piece in her collection. it was so flirty and feminine but had elements of texture and cut…sigh. so pretty.

  14. avec

    September 14, 2007 at 1:18 pm

    I looove DKNY. those colors, taht freshness

  15. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 1:26 pm

    For me, its Lanvin. Brilliant.

  16. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 1:27 pm

    anon, you’re not the only one, i have always found their work hideous and unwearable! the construction must be exquisite but the design is haphazard.

  17. Aubrey L

    September 14, 2007 at 1:38 pm

    Was anyone else completely and utterly dissapointed with new york this year?? I can honestly say that not a single collection was inspiring to me. Some were decent (narciso, phillip lim, proenza) but still completely disappointing!! And don’t even get me started on marc jacobs. ahhhh. Just wondering if anyone else feels this way.

  18. Marnee

    September 14, 2007 at 1:40 pm

    Interesting use of color, but… lamp shade? Only on the runway. Or Project Runway. Rock it out sister.

  19. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 1:47 pm

    at “project runway gone wrong”:

    From what I’ve seen, our lovely Sartorialist LOVES construction.. and Rodarte incorporates a lot of very labour intensive and complex techniques into the construction of their pieces.

    I really liked them for the last couple seasons but they’ve gone a little too far for my liking.. I don’t get this collection either.. but I’m no fashion expert.

  20. Modediktator

    September 14, 2007 at 1:52 pm

    Again I’m admiring the show of Monique L’Huillier…. Her style is timeless.
    On the other hand I agree with your comment to Rodarte – they’re breaking up the fashion scene and showing us some very interesting and creative designs.

  21. David Hart

    September 14, 2007 at 1:56 pm

    Oscar de la Renta was my favorite show.

  22. editor

    September 14, 2007 at 2:22 pm

    this is fashion, but i’m not sure that it’s clothing. when i look at an object of beauty and think, “how could you sit in that, and what would it look like after you stood up again?” then it ceases to be clothing. it’s art, it’s design, it’s a lot of things, and hopefully it will inspire something else – i assume these girls will eventually translate their brilliance in to clothing – but i can’t compare it to other collections that i liked, because the ones i liked are ones i would buy/wear, because they are clothes.
    oh, and candid cool – LOL

  23. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 4:52 pm

    The Rodarte girls have a great eye for detail, but they overlook the most important one: how their clothes will look on a woman’s body.

    Super-unflattering!

  24. Anonymous

    September 14, 2007 at 8:48 pm

    I can’t help but see some similarities between Rodarte and Balenciaga last season. The metallic skinny blue pants paired with a white shirt and the metallic blue dress look alot like looks sent down the runway by Nicholas. And the rest of the clothes I just felt were unflattering very art school, maybe I just don’t get it.

  25. caramimi

    September 15, 2007 at 2:47 am

    Rodarte is my current fave American designer(s). After viewing the details on Style’s podcast, I’m blown away at the light, airy-ness mixed with those wicked shoes. Dare I say a touch of Balenciaga’s Spring 2007, but with their personal stamp. I love these girls, and like how they clearly articulate their vision each season. American next wave fashion.

  26. Anonymous

    September 15, 2007 at 3:51 am

    Oscar de la Renta, Diane von Furstenberg, Vera Wang and Preen were all favourites although Mark Jacobs was a disaster…the reverse order thing has been done and many designs were just weak versions of pioneering designs from years ago. I’m afraid nothing was “pulled out of the bag” here!

  27. funny face

    September 15, 2007 at 6:15 am

    that is so true, about the limits a new designer has!

  28. Anonymous

    September 15, 2007 at 2:24 pm

    For some reason, I find their collection Balenciaga inspired, not too original:(

  29. Love Marks The Spot

    September 15, 2007 at 2:25 pm

    beautiful! thanks for sharing your thoughts, i truly appreciate your perspective.

  30. melody

    September 15, 2007 at 2:57 pm

    Narciso Rodriguez–his clean, architectural styling gets me every time.

  31. Anonymous

    September 15, 2007 at 6:47 pm

    Inventive, yes. Wearable – no.

    And shiny just looks bad on most regular people in real life.

  32. art kids

    September 15, 2007 at 7:10 pm

    love those rodarte skirts!

  33. riz

    September 16, 2007 at 12:43 am

    ha this is what i said about rodarte. they are brilliantly moody, in a Heideggerian sense.we selected some of the same pix: http://modeutopie.blogspot.com/2007/09/rodarte-spring-08.html

  34. janejane

    September 16, 2007 at 7:12 pm

    I thought the Rodarte collection was particularly awful. As was Marc Jacobs. The designs are too contrived, the references too forced, the shows scattered. I did not think either collection was innovative or wearable. New York was overall disappointing, but I liked Proenza and Phillip Lim, if forced to choose. I can’t wait for London! Then Milan, then Paris… Best for last…

  35. janejane

    September 16, 2007 at 7:18 pm

    A friend said of a majority of the New York collections (part. MJ)- they are trying to shock people, but the results are like reckless vomit, spewed everywhere, just about as coherent and inspiring as a D&G ad campaign.

  36. Anonymous

    September 16, 2007 at 11:27 pm

    mary ping’s my fave

  37. Anonymous

    September 17, 2007 at 8:49 pm

    those women look like mannequins (perhaps it’s the lighting)–just saying

  38. Anonymous

    September 20, 2007 at 1:07 am

    My gosh, I fell in love with Rodarte this season. Their fall ’07 was the first time I noticed the Mulleavy sisters and I was turned off. There are many great PIECES in this collection. The knitwear was just darling, colorful, and don’t tell me you can’t see the sweaters on the average girl with jeans and chucks.

    Oh, and the dresses… some were quite body conscious!

    One wears Rodarte for the construction and to stand out. With such a boring week in New York… I really have to agree that Rodarte was the best and most exciting.

  39. K

    September 20, 2007 at 10:59 am

    I thought Costello Tagliapietra was excellent, mostly because they were able to make jersey look luxurious. Derek Lam–great as well (no surprise there, though).

  40. baklang_baliw

    October 31, 2007 at 5:10 pm

    i thought doo.ri made advancements in her aesthetic; only comme des garcons could pull off “that” collection; haider ackerman is love; ann demuelemeester was gorgeous; prada was also great; tao kurihara delivered; chloe- i loved chloe’s new creative direction; jil sander; marni; missoni; rick owens; roksanda ilincic;

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