Wednesday, January 18, 2006
In college I majored in costume construction, I made tutus, sketched costumes for opera, drafted patterns, made pleated skirts and measured and hand tailored an entire suit for myself.
Hand sewn button holes, hand rolled and pad-stitched lapels, chest padding ( which I didn’t really need as a 20 year old male), hand stitched twill taping, that suit had the works. By the time I finished it, it looked like hell but I was so proud. By the end of the class I received the top grade, calloused fore fingers and extremely strained vision.
After I graduated and moved to New York my mom (like moms do) cleaned out my room and accidentally threw out my suit.
I still have all my Johnny Bench, Rod Carew, Joe Morgan, Dr. J, and Earl Campbell cards but I sure miss that suit.
All I have left is a 1/4 scale size practice undercollar with full hand stitching. Notice the extreme evenness and consistency of the stitches, that ruined me for future sewing. I still only know one extremely involved way to sew, so to this day, I still don’t hem my own pants. I just don’t have the extra time it takes (about 72 hours!) to do the job.
Anonymous
January 19, 2006 at 7:26 am
That is some pad stitching O_o
if you were a tailor by trade, you really wouldnt make any money…that would take you half a day!! And then there the chest, lapels….oh dear…2 days work :P
The Sartorialist
January 19, 2006 at 7:55 am
Right!
My teacher insisted in 1/4 inch stitches
Thats why I’m a photographer now.
I must admit that after all this time that undercollar still rolls perfectly.
sarno
January 19, 2006 at 10:35 am
mr. sartorialist, i was wondering if you could recommend a book and/or source for patterns for the construction of suit jackets?
The Sartorialist
January 19, 2006 at 2:25 pm
We had a book but I don’t ever remember using it, we learned everything from our great teacher, Mrs. Karla Kunoff
an english girl in new york
October 5, 2007 at 8:21 am
I’m so pedantic about sitches it’s not true. My mother better not throw out my dresses when I leave home.
*sP
October 20, 2011 at 8:31 pm
almost too bad that this is not what is seen in suits, the foundation, the construction. it is where the true beauty is. i had a garment construction course and the professor demanded that a garment should look beautiful on the inside as well.