What a gorgeous collection of fantastical, magical, lovely clothing. I remember I read a lengthy feature on Vuitton’s original creations and venture into design and I gained so much respect for him and his company. I wonder if part of this display was inspired by the movie ‘Hugo’ in a French train station? Love a great story to accompany great design.
This is the Downton Abbey effect; nostalgic reimaginings of a lost age. These are beautiful clothes, fabulous design and a wonderful eye for color and print and yet do they veer on fancy-dress costume?
The layers! The gems! The prints and brocade. This was a great couture show with so many inspiring pieces and outfits.
And the porters are adorable; I love that they didn’t hire male models, just normal men!
Very ‘Downtown Abbey’ 1910-1918 look. I love the shoes, which, apart from the height of the sole are also redolent of that time with square toe and foot shaping. The patterns are astounding and have taken real skill to balance it seems to me – with splashes of block colours in the hats (also true to time) and bags – specially like the yellow. I also like the almost Asian idea (French Vietnamese?) of pants beneath the calf length skirts.
Oh man, I feel like I just died and went to “Funny Girl” heaven. This is like the scene where Barbara Streisand gets off the train and runs into Nick Arnstein EXPLODED all over “Hugo”. I’m in love. I’m going to be dreaming about this coat silhouette (the ones with the curving hi-low hemlines) for days.
Like the show concept in terms of the train station feel…not too crazy about the actual designs though. Feel like the proportions are a little off, and the hats are giving me “mad hatter” vibes – and not in a good way.
Oh well. Can’t win over them all, no? :3
– Miz L.
The inspiration seems to come from children’s literature: Dr. Suess(Cat in the Hat hats) and Ernest Shepard’s illustrations of A.A. Milne’s “When We Were Very Young.” Numbers 8 & 9 remind me of James James Morrison Morrisons’ mother.
While many of the clothes are certainly beautiful, it’s hard for me personally to get past how distasteful I find the presentation concept. The fetishising of excessive consumption, played out literally by having so many bags you need a subservient man to carry them all, is revolting. I thought we were over the whole It bag thing. This show is about spending and spending and still not having enough, aimed at women who have more than most would dream of in a lifetime. For shame. And for those who would defend it as fantasy and a work of the imagination, this is a business. And they know their clients.
I agree with M, the whole collection reminds me of the Marc Jacobs collection only a little more streamlined. I think even a couple of the fabrics are the same…
I did love the concept of the train and the porters to pay homage to the famous Louis Vuitton luggage line.
I see some continuity with the Marc Jacobs collection/show (though the hats definitely work better here), and once again, I can see key elements of the collection translating beautifully. The third and next-to-last coats, however, are pretty darn sublime just as they are!
hm. this show is clever product placement indeed. as far as the clothes and the fabrics are concerned: marc jacobs is a talented magpie and i really like a lot of what he’s done, but these last f/w collections are a bit much and just don’t do it for me. they lack sensitivity, or poetry.
i onestly think LV show was the worst show of paris fashion week. it was a mess. a complete disaster.
all the clothes look so unatractive, the silhouette was old, as the concept, wich before the “abbey thing” is actually more “the hours” virgina’s wolf 2002 movie. those velvet puffy hats were the most ugluy thing that came out from paris fashion week. those coat shapes were just wrong. the collar was old and heavy, the prints were messy, the embroideries and the buttons looks cheap. and the pump edgy shoes were horrible. too big, too sharped.
i want to know if there just one woman in the world who look sexy and fresh with that garments on her.
OK, so I would never wear any of these clothes or derivatives of them – they look so heavy and bulky (makes me feel hot, itchy and, I dunno, 19th-century-imprisoned-by-my-wardrobe just looking at them) – but what a beautiful/striking show.
I LOVE the train and the idea of the lovely helpers carrying their lovely bags ;) so creative and the clothes are to die for. A bit of a world away it seems, Stockholm Street Style is all about simplicity, yet big bold statement pieces at the same time ! Take a look at my Stockholm Street Style blog: http://www.johannasthlm.blogspot.com
everything feels so labored in this collection. i agree with rebecca on this collection as well, i heard backstage some of the fabrics cost over thousands per yard and the fact that marc jacobs uses them in such an appeasing way is just embarrassing and insensitive. he has an abundance of resources but still refuses to push fashion forward only offering predictable looks through the silhouettes, cuts and styling. it doesn’t help that all his collections recently have come across as complete knocks offs of prada and marni pieces, how can no one else see this? and yet people still compliment him on his “revolutionary concepts and presentation skills”. his designs are not up to par with likes of forward designers such as balenciaga, chalayan or prada.
finally it annoys me that he has taken the editorial approach to designing as well. the clothes are so unflattering with hideous proportions but photograph well. but once you see them on a hanger it’s a different story.
No, Sandra, you’re not alone. This collection looks like the clothes for the witches in the Harry Potter movies. I don’t think the lines are flattering and the hats look like old, limp balloons. Colors and textures are cool, but design is too costume-y for me.
Huge hats… again! How is it possible that designers come up with similar ideas (oversized hats, similar colours, patterns, silhouettes, fur) within the same season? I homestly don’t understand how that works. Sartorialist, please explain! Is there some kind of secret annual meeting for fashion designers??
i have to say, i saw the shots vogue.com posted for this and for miumiu, and i outright rejected them in my head – simply disliked them. but something about your photos… I automatically saw the very same outfits as dramatic, artistic, and creative. i dont know what it is, but you just seem to capture them in just the right way; it makes them so much more fashion-y than just seeing the clothes.
Gee, Rebecca, I wish I could find a porter (whom I would tip) to carry my bags, as I am only a little person and have difficulty. In any case, porters have a respectable job and a nice uniform. What’s wrong with that? Should we go to the kitchen and get our own lunch next time we dine out?
This collection is beautiful, but there is something very costumy about it. I think fashion should draw a real line between itself and the theatre and I find more and more it does not. Marc should design for the ballet sometime. I could picture “Cinderella” (Prokoviev) designed like this.
Love your photography! I am also in photograpy and and have a love for fashion. (My fashion blog launches 3.25.12). The L.V. line is amazing. Very inspiring. It’s great to see patterns, texture and bold hues. People should not be afraid to define their style and wear those platforms!
a theatrical spectacle, gorgeous bags yes, but for me, those clothes are ‘emperors new clothes’ hideous. The collars, the buttons, the shapes, those shoes! -awful. Fantastical narrative, my fair lady on acid, (with some Carol Brady, Shirley Partidge thrown in) but unwearable. Or if I saw someone wearing any of these looks I’d feel they’d drunk the koolaid and were desperate victims of ‘fashion’. Maybe its just me…I can tell the experience of the show was transporting but the clothes the clothes the clothes are too contrived and just ugly.
Again, I agree with Rebecca, Ludo, Dominic,Sandra, Sarah, the clothes are desparately unflattering. Period. “the emperors new clothes” syndrome. Also no one seems to be talking about the pink polo dress with Louis xiv pumps and purse outfit Marc wore to his celebration? Besides looking foolish, i saw: Warning Signs -potential train wreck in the train station/Gare Galiano. I hope not. I don’t say those things to be catty or mean, just an observation…
To have someone just walking after you carrying your bags…is at least funny… I liked the way the brand focus in its ideal customer, but maybe there are some clients who don’t sympathize with this “madame” thing…
The show really updated the idea of defilÃ¨. Smoke at the end of the catwalk, the clock beating the hour and … a real size train enter the hall.. and then you are sent somewhere back in the past waiting for your lady arriving at the train station from the Orient, maybe in the ’30..that was amazing. I was there. Believe I felt guilty I didn’t have my hat, my wooden stick and my gloves, ready to welcome her..
I want to take issue with the objections to fabrics that cost hundreds of dollars a yard. What is wrong with that? These gorgeous fabrics are handmade by real artisans. I cannot afford them but I’m glad that a few can. And because a few can, the talent and skill of these artisans is not lost.
Thank goodness that not everything is manufactured cheaply by poor drudges in factories. And I don’t just mean clothing.
I adore it all, the clothes, the hats, the train, clock and porters, like stepping into Hugo. For those who are upset about the expense–think of all the people employed in creating this show, from the artisans–fabric makers and designers, seamstresses, shoe makers, milliners, to the men and women who constructed the sets, hung the lights, set up the chairs. Isn’t there something to be said for keeping alive admirable vanishing skills, and for wild beauty?