Monday, January 16, 2006

Jil Sander Fall 2006

I know Raf Simons is widely considered one of the most important young menswear designers in the world but…could he give us a little design in his debut Jil Sander collection? I’m sure “they” will describe the show with sound bites like “wipe the slate clean”, a “new beginning”, “stripped to the bone” blah, blah-really, do we need 44 looks to express this vision. I’m sure the fabrics are superb and the cut is amazing but doesn’t jil Sander need a more dramatic reintroduction than this?


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  1. Milan Fashion Whore

    January 16, 2006 at 8:58 pm

    I like the different collar in pic. # 2.

  2. Anonymous

    January 17, 2006 at 2:46 am

    you’re right sart, this almost made me fall asleep, so….blah

  3. British Vogue has something else to say

    January 17, 2006 at 10:47 am

    MILAN kicked off its autumn/winter 2006-7 menswear season with Raf Simons’ breathtaking debut for Jil Sander. As the first outfit hit the catwalk, purveyors of the Sander aesthetic knew they were in for a treat, and what a treat they got! The clothes were simply stunning. No belts, no bags, and no hats, just clothes. Simons took the plunge, working on and re-defining the silhouette. Pants were perfectly mean and shirts blindingly white, while jackets and coats catapulted the male form to new heights. Shoulders dropped as oversized de-constructed jackets, in fine wool serge or silk/wool tonic, cocooned the body whereas coats in the most exquisite of cashmeres, with knitted inserts and the finest horn buttons displayed the new wider shoulder. Even silk nylon or oiled leather bomber jackets were cut with such precision that the knitted ribbing seemed to belong to another garment, making it look boxy and fresh. Sleeves at times seemed circular-cut and reminiscent of an early Cristobal Balenciaga, but let’s make no mistake, this was pure Simons’ with a nod to the future. The palette was minimal – grey, black and mushroom – and the knitwear equally so: sweaters displayed a slight keyhole neckline and caressed the form, while cardigans with no need of a fastening stayed in place as if they did have. The finale played out to a re-working of Animotion’s Obsession, and I’m sure for many, this collection willprove to be exactly that. (January 15 2006, PM)
    By Antonio Berardi

  4. Caballero

    January 17, 2006 at 12:44 pm

    this looks like a Mormon convention.

  5. for milan fashion whore

    January 17, 2006 at 12:48 pm

    The collar in pic #2 would probably flop open if worn by someone who didn’t fit it properly (mainly in the chest area).

  6. The Sartorialist

    January 17, 2006 at 7:25 pm

    The British Vogue review was written by Antonio Beradi.
    Do you think he would really rip another designer?
    What would he get out of it?
    I look forward to reading the rest of his reviews to see if they are all perfumed roses.

  7. Anonymous

    January 17, 2006 at 10:00 pm

    good point.

  8. LA Guy

    January 18, 2006 at 10:09 am

    Actually, the silhouette is quite different from Jil’s own – much more masculine – and much less adolescent than the silhouette from past Jil Sander collections. Also, Raf Simons seems to have gottene rid of the pastel accents Jil loved in knitwear.

  9. The Sartorialist

    January 18, 2006 at 11:33 am

    Silhouette – exactly, that is all that is going on. No color, print, and very little texture of any kind. Jil was always one of the most anticipated shows and this one was highly anticipated but I’m under-whelmed

  10. Anonymous

    January 21, 2006 at 3:41 pm

    I agree, it may not be the most obviously impactful show. But why do you necessarily have to have color, print, and texture to make a statement? Isn’t it harder to do so without? The collection was very focused. The tension generated from the over-sized jacket and the skinnier trouser feels new, though there is NOTHING new about the concept. I feel it is very true to Jil and her aesthetic.
    From a show perspective, it makes a statement.
    From a clothing perspective, I could mix any of those pieces into my wardrobe, adding some color, print, and texture (if I desire), and it would immediately become “mine.” No one would know I’m wearing a designer, they’d think I’m wearing a beautiful, tasteful sweater. But, that’s just my humble opinion.

  11. The Sartorialist

    January 22, 2006 at 8:08 pm

    The genius that was Jil was that she was always coming up with something new (in fabric detail or shape detail) but it always felt new. You’re right that he doesn’t have to use color or print or anything but it felt like a step back instead of forward.

    That is always the trick with taking over a famous house, how much to keep and how much to move forward. Raf is so well respected that i guess I was expecting to see a little more of him in the collection. Everyone that buys Jil’s mens collection knows of Raf so he shouldn’t be afraid to shake it up a bit.

    Basically I think Raf is following too literally the look of Jil and not enough the spirit of Jil.

  12. Anonymous

    January 23, 2006 at 7:05 pm

    I can see that. I also think you need to consider that this is his first show with Jil. I think I’d be conscious of straying too far from what the fashion “flock” may consider to be trying to reinvent the collection and her image. I hope, and expect, to see some exciting things from him, but time will tell…

  13. opredeleno

    October 25, 2010 at 4:20 am

    Utterly useless. I wouldn't use those for anything, they don't do even for "basic" or "plain", they are just the epitome of deadly boring.
    Would you personally shoot a guy dressed like this if you see him on the street, and post here on your blog. I think you wouldn't notice him at all, what about giving him a shot with the camera. I think not.

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