Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Jil Sander – Fall 2006 Standing Still

The Jil Sander apologist keep saying that Prada shouldn’t change the brand too much; they should be faithful to Jil’s vision, make sure not to alienate her customer. Prada listened and now they are slowing killing the brand.

Is what we are seeing from Raf, below, what got us all excited about Jil in the first place? What made Jil’s work in the 90′s so exciting was not just her minimalistic design, but the fact that it looked so good against what else was out there. The most important designers at that time were minimalist (Jil, Helmut, and don’t forget Marc Jacobs was one of the best at the look) but fashion has moved on, Marc has moved on and up, but Helmut is gone and Jil (or at least the people running the business) just stands still.

Raf is a great talent and I know this is his first women’s collection but will these looks put Jil back on the map (or, even more importantly, back on the rack) as one of the most directional houses?

I want my Jil back!




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8 comments

  1. Anonymous

    February 21, 2006 at 11:19 am

    Yes, Jil was a true master of minimalism, as were Helmut, Prada and even Gucci in the begnning.
    Fashion has indeed moved on, but do you think Raf is on to something? I mean, Narciso was one of the strongest collections in New york, espescially for women, but his is a sexy minimalism.
    After all the girly frou-frou, perhaps what we need is a bit of cleaned-up sophistication.

  2. The Sartorialist

    February 21, 2006 at 11:37 am

    Absolutely Raf is on to something, did you see how good his signature mens collection looked? All that outerwear was fantastic but where is all that design detail in this Jil collection? Raf may end up being the perfect person to revive Jil but he or they(the managers) have to take a few more chances.
    The original Jil customer has moved on to other “hotter” designers if they want her back they better let Raf do his thing.

  3. Anonymous

    February 21, 2006 at 1:33 pm

    I totally agree with you that he should take more risks..Who do you think Jil”s customer has moved on to? Balenciaga, Rochas, lanvin? They are all fabulous, but do you think that is where she is headed?

  4. Anonymous

    February 21, 2006 at 3:15 pm

    What distinguished Jil to me was an absolute unwillingness to compromise with regards to the timelessness of her designs in all aspects – lines, curves, color, fabric – No other RTW designers come close (even at their “top of the line”). Who knows how Raf’s mind works? We only know that Jil won’t have what Patrizio Bertelli wants of her name . . .

  5. The Sartorialist

    February 21, 2006 at 3:43 pm

    I always thought Jil did a great job with fabrics and fabric manipulation. I also thought she did an excellent job at creating real new design details but was still able to make the item wearable – Yohji for the working girl.

    I just feel like Raf now has all these great resources available to him through working with Prada so he should exploit them to the fullest.

    I would love to be a fly on the wall of the Bertelli/Raf meetings in about one year.

  6. slowspin

    February 21, 2006 at 4:51 pm

    You’re right, this isn’t particularly relevant. I do, however, like the silhouettes of the men’s line – especially the boxy oversized jackets/coats coupled with the slim pants. Kind of like your subject in the “Back On The Street” post…

  7. Anonymous

    February 23, 2006 at 8:30 pm

    ehhh…. i didnt really like this collection.
    i love minimalism, but i feel like all of the beautiful models were dressed like men.
    i love the masculine twist to women’s clothing, but in my opinion, this was too much librarian and not enough _______. (i cant think of a good word)

  8. Anonymous

    April 17, 2010 at 9:23 pm

    I think the outfits were very well put together.Not a lot of color but if you look hard enough you can find it.Its hidden but when you find it it just bring a lot to the outfit!

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