yes modern – but fresh? i get the references but the pieces look “weighted” and uneasy. even the models look a little sad wearing them. there must be massive pressure for a designer to come up with something new but for me this just doesn’t feel good.
“Uneasy” was exactly the word that came to mind, however; this is possibly JWA most wearable collection to date. It still doesn’t convince me though, I can’t remove from my memory his previous collection which were nothing but meaningless art pieces verging on total trollop. I’m happy to see that not the entire fashion industry are doggedly trying to convince themselves that JWA produces visually pleasing and commercially viable collections; I salute Maya Singer of style.com for being honest in almost brutally bagging the crap out of this collection: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2014RTW-JWANDERSON/
Perhaps LVMH group want their funding used in a more profitable way rather than sending models down the runway with ragged sheer fabric covering their breasts because, as I mentioned before, the majority of this collection seems to be wearable. Can’t wait to see what everyone else thinks of this collection, it seems a departure from previous JWA shows.
As I said earlier: it’s a beautifully sculpted collection, and people can argue it’s too artistic, or like the style.com review, too detached from the female form. It’s very Comme. But I agree that the models look borderline to starvation and the neck crests somehow aid the impression that it’s a ward of sick folks running down the catwalk.
JWA has such a sense for sculpture and structure, fabric and texture. It’s always artistic, what he does. Really not in the over the top way, but in a minimalistic, but not boring way. Could be mistaken for some Comme collections by Rei K though.
All of these oversized, angular shapes going on for autumn/winter. I dunno how I feel about them because it’s best left served by certain designers only. That said, this feels like a conservative line for JW Anderson. http://lordashbury.com
I find these pieces conceptually intriguing–the way he’s used gathering, pleating, and the like to create structure is very cool, particularly in the last 2 skirts. I don’t find the finished products all that aesthetically pleasing, but I can definitely see the techniques filtering out into more “accessible” lines to good effect!
I love the shoe designs (though not the colours), but the clothes look like someone grabbed some cloth (that first one looks like terry cloth/cheap towel cloth) pinned it almost randomly on a mannequin and waved it away as a finished design to be made up by the sewing department. When clothes make models look fat and ugly…you know it’s going to be bad for the average fashionista.
Great color and shapes. Although I love the shoes from the third and fourth pictures, I’m not sure if this collection is about clothes or women anymore. The models don’t wear clothes but sculpture and architecture pieces.
Would love to own the grey skirt. Would wear with the Addidas worn by the third blonde of London with mobile phone and light, comfy sweater. But on second thought, my legs are not long enough for the skirt. Another lifetime.
These clothes don’t look like the product of a knowledgeable craftsperson but maybe that is the point. It looks like an artist deliberately taking the wrong fabrics and folding and twisting them and then sewing them down until a vaguely recognizable, wearable form occurs.