It looks great, though I have to say it’s possible he doesn’t quite have those shoulders. An impressive fit through the waist. Here in Calgary it is much more typical to see blown out size 46 jackets that have been butchered to provide more room through the gut…
Wow, this really is a perfect suit!!! Usually they look great just from the front, in stores I mean, and then you take a look from the back and all you can see is an army of safety pins and careful pleates, planted by studious shop personnel… Always such a deception when trying to find a perfect fit and being attracted a well-fitted model on a mannequin in the window….
really? i am fairly new to the sartorial world, but that tightly tailored jacket makes him look more like a woman from behind…no? the shoulders…yes. the shoulder blades..yep. but that waist is a bit much. although in light of the glut of boxy suits available, i can see where you would point out a fella who went the other way. maybe some where in between? that’s just my $.02.
I think it fits the shoulders really nicely. What I’m not sure about is the flared-out almost pepulumish effect of the bottom part of the jacket. It’s probably just the–whatchamacallems–venty things at the back catching wind.
Would be interesting to see a shot from the front to compare.
I think that there is a lack of proportion with regard to the shape at the bottom of the jacket- it should flair out more. The pant fit also looks odd- but this may just be a result of shooting him mid-stride. The smooth line through his waist though is ideal, no belt line or love handles, etc breaking up the smooth tight drape of the jacket.
if you do two things to a suit, 1. waist suppression 2. adjust the shoulders *3. with a jacket tailored like the aforementioned, skinny pants are a perfect match!
i went to my boyfriend’s office party (on wall street) in a suit like this. among all of the other boxy, cookie-cutter suits, mine really stood out. everyone liked it, but walking around down there, i looked like i was some way-out flouncy fashionista. odd how you can be in manhattan, yet feel like you’re in the some backwater town.
i can see what he was trying to achieve, i personally think the shoulders are slightly off as well, which makes the amount of drop seem out of proportion or feminine.
visit http://www.kilgour.eu and you should see a pic of the back of a model in a dark blue pinstripe suit, which i believe looks SUPERB and is how a suit should look from the back. i also think it’s the sort of look that this man is trying to achieve.
This post is a good example of why I tune in to this blog. As a female who takes a liking to traditional masculine styles (not just “modern”, feminine interpretations of such details as pinstripes or shirting fabrics), you are an invaluable resource.
Ditto butch at 11:22 – Any build may use a variety of cuts, but a good fit is not negotiable.
You don’t think that the fit makes his waist look, well, a little *feminine*?
The way he seams and pattern fit together is wonderful, it’s just that the tight fit through the waist with the double vents gives him a bit of an hourglass from behind. A single vent might not have, perhaps?
I’m afraid some of the commenters who find this nipped waist on a man’s jacket ‘effeminate’ or ‘feminine’ would be shocked to see how closely cut European and English men wear their suit jackets. The tight, hourglass jacket shape is considered very traditional and very masculine everywhere except America, where menswear has taken on the character of shapeless boxes for the body. I have found it nearly impossible to persuade American tailors to shape a jacket this close to the body. So bravo to this chap and his tailor, as clearly this is an altered off-the-peg suit and not tailor-made.
Agreed. I love this suit’s dimensions. Only in America do men seem terrified or ashamed of a suit that shapes and follows a fit body line. I’m sure they’d be equally ashamed to see the tight fitting waist and crotch from the front.
I think this is a great fit – and yes, it does give more shape (whether that’s “womanly” or not is debatable) through the waist.
That’s why I like it! Why should men be blocks? Quite a few of them have wider shoulders with nipped-in waists. It’s a body type on a man that I am quite partial to. Give me that over the rectangular man any day. Love this fit.
Astounding to me that many posters feel that a closely nipped jacket waist is feminine. I once had a tailor who refused to nip a jacket to my liking for this very reason. Alas, I capitulated and never really enjoyed the jacket thereafter for that reason.
The question is not nipped closely versus not, but whether the wearer looks COMFORTABLE in his jacket, no matter the waist.
The comment about the fit are interesting. This is obviously a young guy with big shoulders and a slim waist. The fit on the shoulders is fine, if the suit was too big the extremities of the shoulders would be slipping down his arms. They are not. The degree of waist nipping is a matter of personal taste, but surely we all want some shaping, why else do we fight the onset of the big gut. This doesn’t seem particularly excessive, just a young fit guy revelling in his physique. A couple of posters have also commented on the smoothness of the back. This again is something of a matter of taste and comfort. Many people like a little bit of fullness in the back, not the Appalachians, so they can move their arms comfortably. There doesn’t appear to much with this suit, but it’s hard to tell. Overall a great looking back.
This is the way a suit should look. Very nice Silhouette. Though his shoulder area is a tad bit baggy, however men should not fear to take in their suits. One should always wear his suit, not let his suit wear him.
This suit is no doubt a very expensive and well-made one (a la Paul Stuart). However, the fit of the back is a bit to suppressed for my tastes. The jacket should not hug the entire upper body and torso so much. It makes the wearer look like the jacket has a built-in corset.
I thought you only saw such an exaggerated look in drawings. Yes, the suit fits the contours of the body. When a man has such prominent hips, however, he would do well to engage in a little sartorial trickery.
Have your finger touch the spot where the butt and thigh meet. Then add one or one half more inche(s) to make it look balanced. I have over 1500 suits and I have it done this way. I am 5'9" and 46R. 31.5 is the minimal and 32 is the max. Anything below or above that is not going to look balanced on me. It took me 5 years to do it right.
Tight in the waist – looks feminine??? What’s wrong with you people!!! Without seeing the front it appears to be a fairly perfect fit. Yes, np, this is what many of us are working hard at the gym to achieve – the male v-shaped torso. “Women, on average, tend to be more attracted to men who have a relatively narrow waist, a V-shaped torso, and broad shoulders…” I’ll stop now, no need to rant on about other people’s opinions…
He might want to consider closing the vents. I have done that on most of my suit and sport coats. It gives a more youthful, European look. And while you’re young and trim enough to do it, why not? Thanks.