Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Here Comes The Storm!!! Hello From Florence



This is one of those simple but directional looks that can change the way you look at menswear.

Take careful notice of

- double pleated pants – when was the last time you saw pleats look so cool

-Printed tie – it has been ages since I have even considered a printed tie (only woven for me) but this “unconstructed, loosely folded tie looks incredible

-modified spread-collar shirt – again, ages since i liked a shirt that didn’t have a more dramatic cut-away collar.

This is why designers and buyers travel the world to find inspiration that will shift the look of fashion

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89 comments

  1. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 3:42 pm

    Simone Righi, Director of Tie Your Tie. Always dashing in a waistcoat and with a cigar. The lighting is so dramatic, and the color of the backing wall and the suit are absolutely stunning. Excellent photo!

  2. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 3:45 pm

    Classic, taken out of a history book.

  3. Poppet

    January 8, 2008 at 3:49 pm

    The printed tie adds such an effortlessly beautiful and elegant accent–love it!

  4. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 3:57 pm

    He looks great. I love an expensive looking 3-pice suit. Looking to get one myself. Nice shirt too.

  5. MensFlair

    January 8, 2008 at 4:02 pm

    My opinion always was that anything can work if done a certain(right) way, on a certain person, at the certain time.

  6. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 4:02 pm

    the colors in this shot or spectacular–bravo

  7. fad tony

    January 8, 2008 at 4:03 pm

    you’re right, the tie! the suit!
    the whole shot!
    incredibile!

  8. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 4:03 pm

    Well, my, my; a grownup — a rare sighting, and such a welcome one. Handsome, dignified, confident, interesting, comfortable, to say nothing of the sartorial perfection of it all.

    Sart, one of the things I love about your work is that you are willing to be surprised and to recognize something as worthy of attention that is outside your own, stated, bless you, set of assumptions and sensibilities.

    Bravo to him for his retro daring, and to you for giving us this picture and your comments.

  9. Stephanie

    January 8, 2008 at 4:32 pm

    Please keep commenting in that kind of detail, Sart, sir! Please! So much of fashion comment is pure and unconsidered reaction – yours is artistic thought. Keep it coming.

  10. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 4:45 pm

    i’ve never been a fan of facial hair but maybe this is how you make it work: wear an ever so slightly, barely perceptibly unstructured formal suit (oh my god! even the cigar matches!) and go and live in Florence?

  11. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 4:51 pm

    Indy! Throw me the idol and I’ll throw you the whip!!!

  12. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 4:54 pm

    This ensemble dangerously approaches perfection. If I had the money I would take his sense of style as a guide. Thank you, Sartorialist, another beautiful man posted for our edification.

  13. jonnieboy

    January 8, 2008 at 4:55 pm

    i always learn something new from you sart. you’re my hero.

  14. Quise

    January 8, 2008 at 4:56 pm

    Classic fit and look! No matter the look, nothing can beat great tailoring.

  15. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 5:05 pm

    beautiful

  16. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 5:17 pm

    …That’s all true Sart, AND what really makes it work is the proportions! the fit of that vest is perfect, and if that was not exactly as it is, the whole outfit would not work… in my humble opinion.

  17. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 5:29 pm

    Seems to me you have omitted the most important cues–a brown suit and a vest.

  18. blogazar

    January 8, 2008 at 5:49 pm

    wow (currently rethinking pleats). smart, elegant and uber masculine.

  19. Verdiales

    January 8, 2008 at 6:01 pm

    An Italian Robert, er, Browning.

    Superb.

    Was the shirt white, Sart? It looks like there’s some brown in it.

  20. Lara

    January 8, 2008 at 6:24 pm

    I wish I had your eye, you make his suit sound like a beautiful poem or something! All I can see is an awesome pic I would pay a lot of money to put on my wall :) Do you sell? (Well i get you don’t sell the pictures of people, but you have great photography skills)

  21. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 7:13 pm

    wow. gorgeous.

    is it just me or do you imagine he must be very pithy?

    amazing how the way someone looks can lead people to form opinions.

  22. Cathy

    January 8, 2008 at 7:13 pm

    This picture should be printed on a postcard & handed out to men on the street as an example of how to dress. Imagine if all men dressed like this, instead of cheap sportswear or scary shorts???

  23. cautiondriverknitting

    January 8, 2008 at 7:42 pm

    Satisfies my Sherlock Holmes/ Watson aesthetic fascinations!

  24. Amelia

    January 8, 2008 at 7:48 pm

    He uses the avant garde/absurdist trick of mixing periods to make something timeless. The suit and shirt suggest something from the interwar period, but he’s got a nineties goatee and a totally nondescript haircut. It creates a unique silhouette.

    The subject’s own color sense is flawless — think how different this would look on your “typical” olive-skinned Italian with brown hair and eyes. But you’ve captured THE color of Florence in that ochre wall behind him.

  25. Peter

    January 8, 2008 at 8:19 pm

    Why don’t (or didn’t) you like print ties, Scott?

  26. concupiscence

    January 8, 2008 at 8:29 pm

    every now and then, an image will hit a sweet spot with me, and this is it. as below with simba, gorgeous lighting. and even though in the back of my mind i can hear my father say ‘hard light’, i can’t help but love it all. hard light, warm colours and gentle, gentle edges. a formidable bloke there.

  27. lintmag

    January 8, 2008 at 8:32 pm

    Very fab vintage-y! Love the golden light too. I was also impressed by the great clothing I just saw on Daniel Day-Lewis in There will be blood. The jodhpurs, high boots, jackets…. some things are always stylish.

  28. Alice Olive

    January 8, 2008 at 8:34 pm

    Agreed, he is a distinguished gentleman who has attired himself meticulously.

    More than that, this is also a wonderful photograph – look at that light!

  29. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 8:46 pm

    That fantastic drape in the shoulders is a result of VERY light padding. For this to not look sloppy require tremendous skill in cutting and stitching a suit. This suit is a great example of excellent tailoring.

  30. Butch

    January 8, 2008 at 8:53 pm

    Superb–a brown suit can be a toughie but he’s done brilliantly by the color.

    Especially like the way the collar bends a bit–it lives, unlike the usual over-stiffened examples.

    Vest is just the right length, too.

    Pleats never go out of style–and they’re absolutely required here.

    A billiant ensemble, both casual and dressy: just right for this gent!

  31. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 8:56 pm

    Love the softness of his outfit despite the formality. And what a handsome face!

    Also, beautiful sharp Baroque lighting. ;)

  32. McTickle

    January 8, 2008 at 8:58 pm

    Thom Browne would hate this. Do it again!

  33. Anonymous

    January 8, 2008 at 9:13 pm

    I really enjoy your commentary on this image. Like so many others you have posted before, the points made are clear, poetic and human all at once. It is inspiring to see fashion through your eyes. Your vision and traveled perspective carry me to wonderfully freeing vantage points. Thank you!

  34. Stacy

    January 8, 2008 at 9:31 pm

    Love it all.

    I think my favourite part is the brown and white stripped shirt.

    Nice shadows too.

  35. km

    January 8, 2008 at 10:37 pm

    Anonymous, I’m pretty sure that’s the Canadian comedian Norm MacDonald.

  36. Bricology

    January 8, 2008 at 10:50 pm

    The ensemble looks very good.

    Now then, sir: please take your hand out of your pocket. If your hands are cold, wear gloves. There is no reason for a gentleman to ever stow his hands in his pants pockets. It ruins the lines of his pants, and it makes him look onanistic.

  37. Candid Cool

    January 8, 2008 at 11:26 pm

    Magnificent! And distinguished indeed.

  38. The Pilgrim

    January 8, 2008 at 11:37 pm

    He looks so elegant!
    I’ve been dying for pleated pants (double or single) since last year and can’t find any that are not just the plain old kind, I guess I’ll have to buy those and alter them to make them look fashionable!

  39. morty

    January 8, 2008 at 11:37 pm

    The thing that bothers me is that the man has not paid attention to his facial hair.The beard looks quite awful and he could have his hair cut too.

  40. Ruth

    January 9, 2008 at 12:34 am

    The pleats work because the pants sit high on the waist, they don’t have an inseam that hangs halfway down to the knees, they have only ONE pleat that is prominently and very precisely creased and because they are tapered to the leg. Look–his hand is shoved in his pocket and the pant still doesn’t bulk out. And the collar looks fantastic because its spread is echoed by the top of the lapel which is proportioned and sits high on the shoulder instead of widening in mid-chest. What gorgeous material-it looks like very high quality wool.

  41. aLwAySz

    January 9, 2008 at 1:04 am

    Today is the 1st time i checked out your blog and i think it’s really good. The pictures are awesome and the topics you talk about are interesting. Keep up the good work.

  42. gunsandsmoke

    January 9, 2008 at 1:58 am

    and that beard! that is one badass beard. it commands respect.

    facial hair = A GREAT ACCESSORY FOR ALL :>

  43. lovely lady lessy.

    January 9, 2008 at 2:01 am

    Mmm. FANTASTIC fabrics, only made better by the gorgeous tailoring.

    You have found a winner.

  44. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 4:37 am

    as a woman, i love the way you look at men’s clothing and style….it gives me a completely new in depth perspective….i have recently just realised that the past year has seen me buy a number of ties, braces and pocket squares, have really started enjoying reading the GQ (which is really a great mag)….you really made a difference…i have to say….but i think looking into your archives, my favourite month has to be January 06 with interviews from Boyer and Derrik Miller…the quirky personal tales about your torn shirt and self made(and lost) jacket…i guess its not just your pictures and the people in them…its what you thought of them that counts….i feel like i need to hear more from you…and what YOU think…
    love and luck!!!
    K

  45. Vistiendo a Candela

    January 9, 2008 at 5:03 am

    You´re right

  46. Doron

    January 9, 2008 at 5:50 am

    Minus the vest, this is pretty much how men dress for work in Europe. Change the collar to something like, say, button down, and change the color and you’ve got the standard American work suit. Pleated trousers, sack jacket, print tie. There’s no question that the material is luxurious and the fit perfect, there’s no question this guy has a sharp eye for color and pattern, but this is pretty much what you wear when you’ve got a regular (though well paying) job.

  47. Gabriela

    January 9, 2008 at 6:30 am

    Wellcome to Europe Sart!

  48. Diana

    January 9, 2008 at 7:00 am

    What i would like to know, if you already saw this gent in front of this background, or at least nearby, or you saw him in the crowd, picked him out, run around to find a suitable background for him (+ light) and took this fantastic pic?

  49. Carolina Lange

    January 9, 2008 at 7:15 am

    Perfect!

  50. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 7:17 am

    Like Lappo Elkann he has the shirt collar starched and the rest not. Is the shirt silk or cotton?
    I’ve always thought that starch was invented to disguise bad cheap fabric.

  51. bro brummell

    January 9, 2008 at 7:36 am

    The pleats look better than most, but nobody seems to be noticing that they’re REVERSE. EW.

    Otherwise, bravo. The cigarillo is a must-have accessory for that kind of suit, even if you don’t smoke.

  52. Raquel

    January 9, 2008 at 8:02 am

    He looks like Captain Alatriste!!

  53. perfect bound

    January 9, 2008 at 8:47 am

    You also captured the light perfectly. I love the color of that building. I can close my eyes and almost guess where he is standing. Florence is like no other.

  54. I. Filcovich

    January 9, 2008 at 9:57 am

    So Henry James!! I love it. Wish all young men would wear these kind of clothes out on the streets.

  55. S.

    January 9, 2008 at 10:01 am

    So handsome, love him!

  56. Mitchell

    January 9, 2008 at 10:46 am

    The whole look is impeccable. I wish I were back in Firenze right now to see all the inspiration.

  57. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 11:50 am

    Great suit and great picture.

    Regarding the collar, I was speaking recently with a top Italian custom shirtmaker, and he mentioned that well dressed Italians absolutely avoid the overly spread collars. He questioned why Americans liked them so much and referred to them as the French rather than Italian style. His preference, and that of his clientèle is very much like the one that the fellow in your picture here is wearing.

  58. Thomas

    January 9, 2008 at 11:54 am

    If I tried to wear this I would look like a rumpled sack, but he looks fantastic. Must make more money to hire a tailor.

  59. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 12:12 pm

    I agree with BAZ SAID….I love when men pull off these PERIOD looks …I would like to say that for me it is a never ending pursuit of findng the perfect balance between a PERIOD look and making it work TODAY!

    Italian men especially do this very well…. i’m sure it has sooo much to do with a certain mindset and mentality ….and therefore it looks so EFFORTLESS!!

    THX SAR!
    from DALLAS

  60. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 12:15 pm

    P.S.

    I am on big kick this year to start wearing alot of CLUB collars with suits and MANDARIN/BAND collars for casual wear…in an effort to add that OLD WORLD charm!

    THX SAR!

  61. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 12:32 pm

    I have always believed that “style” is not necessarily based only on the clothes u wear but unltimately its the right attitude, the confidence, the personal flair and of course the way u look( thats what separates the good from the amazing ).

  62. Patri

    January 9, 2008 at 2:43 pm

    I am a young woman and I’ve just fallen in love with him! I wish I knew men of my age with his elegance ;)

  63. Démonée

    January 9, 2008 at 3:06 pm

    I love it!!!
    Is he taken?

  64. The Urban Naturalist

    January 9, 2008 at 3:17 pm

    Well done, sir. The short but messy hair. The clean cut cheeks and out out-of-control chin. The slightly out of kilter tie. This is the look of a gentleman that is thoughtfully unique.

  65. Lynne Rutter

    January 9, 2008 at 4:11 pm

    the man is wearing the suit, not the other way around.

    gorgeous study in color- i love the brown with the ochre wall, strong shadow… very nice photo.

  66. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 4:24 pm

    Wonderful photo, great light!!
    What’ s wrong with printed ties, Sart?

  67. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 4:25 pm

    Not trying to be mean but I feel like the look is “self important” and that makes me dislike it.

  68. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 4:56 pm

    This guy IS the suit. You cant buy that.

  69. John Van Rijn

    January 9, 2008 at 5:37 pm

    The point Ruth makes is important. The pleats work because the trousers sit high on the waist and are tailored to the wearer, tapered to the leg. You cannot do this with a ready-to-wear suit because the trousers blouse out making even a well-proportioned man look fat and stumpy. However the overall look is very individual and very manly. Great beard.

  70. miss cavendish

    January 9, 2008 at 6:27 pm

    Definitely not Norm MacDonald! As a fellow Canadian, I appreciate Norm, but he’s not one I’d look to for fashion inspiration–while in Florence. If I were looking for something to wear on the town with Bob and Doug MacKenzie, perhaps!

  71. squajo

    January 9, 2008 at 6:52 pm

    I love the texture of the shirt. I often take the backing out of my neckties but this one looks great!

  72. Kelly

    January 9, 2008 at 7:44 pm

    Wow, such an AMAZING picture. The lighting and setting are simply beautiful and perfectly set off his look.

  73. Easy and Elegant Life

    January 9, 2008 at 8:03 pm

    Anon(s) 4:03 and 8:46, well said.

    For me, this is a classic example of sprezzatura. It takes a man comfortable in his own skin. Nicely done.

  74. Phyllis

    January 9, 2008 at 9:27 pm

    How did you get this exposure???Sunset is such tough light to shoot in!

    Wonderful.

  75. Anonymous

    January 9, 2008 at 11:15 pm

    Before i enlarged the picture I thought it was Pierce Brosnan! This man has the same suave quality.

  76. tintin

    January 10, 2008 at 11:40 am

    Damn those Europeans. That is beautiful. The browns and the mustard wall and the dark wrapper of the cigar all come together for a remarkable portrait. One of your best.

  77. pearlescent

    January 10, 2008 at 12:04 pm

    This photo deserves an award: the lighting, shadows, colors, and the content himself! He looks unreal. Love how the fitted waistcoat’s cut at the bottom highlights the pleats, and most of all, I love that the jacket doesn’t have a wide flat collar. This collar is much more elegant, I like how it curves..

  78. fawn

    January 10, 2008 at 1:02 pm

    the beard! lovely.

  79. Paul Pincus

    January 10, 2008 at 4:24 pm

    He looks incredible.

    This is a really terrific portrait…that face!

    Cheers!

  80. Anonymous

    January 10, 2008 at 11:26 pm

    Amen Anonymous 12:32! When one possesses Style, one not need pay attention to “fashion”.

  81. amelie

    January 11, 2008 at 12:44 pm

    my boyfriend has been informed that this is how he is to dress in the not so distant future. xx

  82. Catherine

    January 11, 2008 at 2:52 pm

    Fabulous photo – both the subject, his style and the image itself! Beautiful! I’d forgotten just how much I love your visits to Florence… all these divinely dressed men to fall in love with!

  83. Catherine

    January 11, 2008 at 2:56 pm

    “…it makes him look onanistic”. Hilarious! And possibly the best line on this blog…

  84. Jenava

    January 11, 2008 at 8:05 pm

    Normally I detest pleats, but these work. My theory is the vest, which has long points, helps smooth the line between the shirt and waist, making the pleats less blouse-y. Plus, his pants fit properly and HE is fit, which makes it easier to pull off the pleats.

  85. Anonymous

    January 12, 2008 at 4:42 am

    The chic informality of the tie is due to the four-in-hand knot, which is more slender and asymmetric than the Windsor. Too bad this guy forgot to put some silk in his breast pocket.

  86. Lee

    January 12, 2008 at 11:19 pm

    first of all
    this is an amazing photograph:
    the tones of the background, the shadows, the angle of the light.. just perfect!
    second, this man just looks amazing, though i almost wish wish he was holding a cig or pipe in his right hand. His face and beard, his hairstyle and demeanor all work together with his outfit to just emanate masculine elegance.

  87. starsying

    January 15, 2008 at 6:01 am

    he looks straight out of the 19th century. very refined and classy

  88. Oscar

    January 17, 2008 at 3:55 pm

    This is why men should grow beards. It makes your suits look like you’re wearing them instead of the opposite.
    That is why Norm McDonald here, looks better than ever ;)

  89. buczyna60

    August 16, 2011 at 12:20 pm

    men love suit and tie

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