Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Giorgio Armani, Fall 2006

There is a whole new generation that will never see Giorgio Armani the way I saw him when I was growing up. When I was in college Armani was the hot youngish designer, easily the most important and directional designer in the world (for both men’s and women’s, no one currently can say that) but still a small business. At the same time Yves Saint Laurent was an aging design superstar who was reaping the rewards of having built an empire but now held little allure to the younger fashion-sensitive generation. At the time I couldn’t imagine any girl I knew wearing anything from the YSL runway, I also couldn’t imagine not wanting every single item from the Armani shows.

With his Fall 2006 collection Armani has officially accepted the torch of “grand old designer.” I cannot imagine any recent Parsons graduate panting over the uptight/uptown ladylike looks that dominated Armani’s runway this season. Don’t get me wrong, Armani is still a master but it just doesn’t speak to that young customer the way Marc or Prada do currently (actually it has been slowly happening for years, but this season Armani has now officially “jumped the shark”).

Armani’s biggest challenge is not lack of or waning talent but the lack of motivation to change. He is so hooked-up in China and other emerging markets that the bottomline will keep bouncing along nicely regardless of what is happening in the press reviews. The only thing that these shows will effect is his legacy but it is not easy to walk away, just ask Brett Favre (did I stump you?). I have a crazy idea, Helmut Lang designs Emporio Armani and when Giorgio is ready to retire Helmut takes the lead, could you think of any recent de-companied designer that could potentially do a better job?

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12 comments

  1. Pere Sauvage

    February 21, 2006 at 8:21 pm

    Helmut Lang designs Emporio and then takes over when Giorgio retires?!?

    That’s the best idea ever.

  2. Anonymous

    February 21, 2006 at 10:00 pm

    I really miss Helmut Lang.

  3. kokuou

    February 21, 2006 at 11:01 pm

    its funny that you were able to understand my generation so much, but i don’t think that all of the collection was that foreign to us. some of it looks quite nice………..

  4. acidboy

    February 21, 2006 at 11:05 pm

    giorgio should retire a/x, its killing the armani name.

  5. Purism

    February 22, 2006 at 7:48 am

    Great to see that I am not the only one who is missing Helmut Lang these days. :)

  6. Anonymous

    February 22, 2006 at 7:01 pm

    I have alot of Helmut Lang and I and still wear it now, it has never gone out of style, not one piece!
    I also got a great peacoat from his last collection and I love it!
    I can coast for a while, but not too long…
    come back, Helmut, come back!

  7. Anonymous

    February 23, 2006 at 8:26 pm

    i agree- i think that this collection was directed more towards an older woman than someone around my own age. i loved the evening dresses, but the initial reaction that i had to this collection was that it belonged on a member of the royal family (think strange hats) as opposed to someone in their early twenties.

  8. Hilde

    April 18, 2006 at 2:38 pm

    I LOVE the forties thing! Finally a trend us curvacious women can wear, and (dare I say it?) look better in than stick-figure girls! *sigh*

  9. SunshineCityLassie

    January 2, 2008 at 10:32 pm

    Prints rule – I love the blue skirt with black polka dots.

  10. Rita

    July 8, 2009 at 4:57 pm

    god, I love that color. Does anyone know it's name?

  11. Ljerka-Susanna-Lukic

    August 17, 2009 at 2:29 pm

    PERFECT!!!
    Susan,Designer&Writer,
    Toronto

  12. Lisa

    May 12, 2012 at 11:20 pm

    I totally agree. Armani lost his edge a long time ago. But again, I think the same of Chanel and the critics of Karl are too afraid to say anything contrary.

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