The Sartorialist

What was your favorite collection this season?

I have a hard time choosing just one collection.

I found the morning-after, lazy mood at Dries Van Noten very welcoming and reassuring. There was that just-rolled-out-of-the-bed, carefree and haphazardly put together quality to most outfits that I find exhilarating. It’s like when you get the perfect outfit choosing at random: it happens once in a while, but when it does it’s a bang, and I love it.

I appreciated the militaristic sexiness of Rick Owens, too. The collection, with those tuft of fur on jackets and mittens had a wild mountain flavor to me, or better, a primal feel: real cavemen living in snowy woods covering themselves with what nature has to offer. Fast, furious and effective: it does not get any better, when you’re put in front of the fury of the elements.

What was your favorite look?

I liked the 70s-gone-abstract broken suit from Raf Simons: the layering and the colors are gorgeous, and that band that crosses the chest like a scalpel-point marker stroke is just insane. All the elements are classic, but totally out of place, and this gets my mind going.