Tell me about the images that influenced you the most when designing your Fall collection…


Images from Richard Prince, such as the Cowboy ‘rephotograph’ (above), as well as images from artist Gabriel Orozco.  I’m always referencing film stills– most recently from The Last Movie, El Topo, Holy Mountain, Solaris, and Sergio Leone’s Dollars Trilogy.

 

Last August I went on a trip to Casa Barragan and ever since have been looking to the images I captured on the streets of Mexico City for inspiration.

 

Which cultures or sub-cultures do you find yourself referencing the most? 

 

I’m always trying to look at the masculine ideal as it might be expressed in cinema or otherwise in culture during different eras– the idea of the cowboy as one of those masculine ideals really intrigued me this past season.  It was less about a specific sub-culture of cowboys but more about exploring an antiquated image of men and masculinity that is at once totally irrelevant to our daily lives, yet still a constant reference in media and fashion.

 

Is it challenging to maintain feminity when designing a menswear inspired women’s collection?  

 

Indeed. The Boy collection has really expanded my vocabulary as a designer, pushing me to look beyond menswear inspiration and make way for dresses, draping, and more feminine silhouettes in general to enhance the core elements (shirting and tailoring) that the line was originally comprised of.

 

Women’s is a real trick because the field is wide open in terms of shape and function of the pieces, yet there is that same expectation of repetition as men’s.

 

It’s as much about a system of dressing that takes cues from menswear (a particular jacket with a great pant, a certain way of layering) as it is about the literal elements. Once a structure is formed, the way you play and have fun with it is what makes a difference.


Do you find yourself taking greater risks when designing the women’s collections since you’re unable to wear the pieces?

 

Well, I have been known to try on a skirt in a fitting…

 

Seriously though, there’s creative freedom and risk in both, just in different ways.

Designing men’s is a completely personal process that’s directly tied to my own taste and personal style—it reflects my curiosity with culture, history and cinema, but the trick with men’s is injecting something fresh into a pretty small set of wardrobe staples, with a pretty limited variation in shape.


After working in the film industry, are there certain themes that you find yourself looking to translate through clothing?

 

I think overall with the brand – the clothes, the imagery around them, our way of communicating with our customers – the tenets or messages that we try to stick to are honesty, purity, classicism, levity, and humor.

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18 comments

  1. FashionUm

    February 16, 2012 at 3:08 pm

    Great interview Scott (with Scott ;) ). Thanks for that! Always liked these kind of posts!
    ——-
    http://www.FashionUm.com
    Show Your Outfit !

  2. Natasha Fatah

    February 16, 2012 at 3:33 pm

    Wonderful interview, really inspired stuff. But who wouldn’t be inspired by Mexico City? I lived there for a year, and it changed my life completely. Looks like he might have picked a bit of ‘naco’ culture. ;) Don’t know what ‘naco’ is? I explain here: http://natashafatah.blogspot.com/2012/02/ser-naco-es-chido.html

    xoxo
    http://www.natashafatah.blogspot.com

  3. xxl

    February 16, 2012 at 3:39 pm

    That photograph is not by Richard Prince. The original photographer was Sam Abell. Prince photographed a billboard showing the ad that it was shot for (a cigarette company) and then resold the image as his own artwork. If an image is going to be appreciated and utilized as inspiration it would be nice if the original artist was recognized for his talent.

  4. dominique

    February 16, 2012 at 3:46 pm

    Really interesting what he has to say :)

    http://www.artichaut.me

  5. bambi

    February 16, 2012 at 3:48 pm

  6. serena

    February 16, 2012 at 4:02 pm

    like this interview!

    watch my blog a byte of fashion

  7. Stephanie

    February 16, 2012 at 4:22 pm

    It’s always interesting to have a view in a creative mind…helps to understand the work of the artist and to approach to the work that at the end is the result of the way of seeing the world and the environment.
    Congratulations…really interesting!!!

    stephaniehadrath.blogspot.com
    shbyhadrath.blogspot.com

  8. Mike

    February 16, 2012 at 4:25 pm

    Band of Outsiders is probably one of my fav as of today. Also, I love this guy attitude.
    Great interview, thanks for sharing with us!

  9. Stylosophism

    February 16, 2012 at 4:34 pm

    very interesting interview

    http://www.stylosophism.com

  10. Aga's suitcase

    February 16, 2012 at 5:04 pm

    Interesting interiew. Good to know.
    Kisses
    Aga

    http://www.agasuitcase.com

  11. Marcel Da Chump

    February 16, 2012 at 5:09 pm

    Marcel Duchamp’s READY MADES made the Richard Prince rephotographs possible. Conceptual art is influencing fashion. Imagine a designer inspired by Damien Hirst.

  12. Lydia Arnold

    February 16, 2012 at 5:10 pm

    Love this! Such a great collection, inspiring!

  13. Boxer's Adventures

    February 16, 2012 at 5:39 pm

    Thanks for the fabulous take.

    http://blog.boxersadventures.com
    International Blog and Shop

  14. Courtenay Nearburg

    February 16, 2012 at 10:15 pm

    Interesting to see the Abell/Prince dialogue/debate continue, thanks to Sartorialist and Sternberg. Conceptual artist Sherrie Berger also ‘rephotographed’ Walker Evans’ iconic works from the FSA archives. I have to say, I’m not a fan of either, as a photographer.

    I was sad to see that Sternberg did not mention Abell at all, as has happened so much over the years since Prince chose to immortalize his Marlboro campaign in the art world.

    Isn’t it arguable that Abell’s commercial campaign was “iconic” already? It was poignant to me that it was described here by Sternberg as Prince’s “iconic” work. Maybe Sternberg’s point of reference being masculine iconography for his collection led him to align himself with Prince’s point of view, the ‘irrelevance’ or irresponsibility of that masculine image, despite it’s continued media stardom.

    But I hope he does know who actually created the iconic Marlboro cowboy. That is relevant.

  15. Innes Welbourne

    February 17, 2012 at 2:50 am

    I truly enjoy these insights into the creative process. Your photos speak for themselves, but it’s also really motivating to get these glimpses of style-makers’ thinking as well. Thank you.

  16. koolphoto

    February 17, 2012 at 11:04 am

    Very interesting interwiev. Thanks!!

  17. Stylefootprints

    February 18, 2012 at 6:00 am

    Very much enjoyed reading that interview. Thanks.

    http://Www.stylefootprints.blogspot.com

  18. Ruby Roberts

    February 20, 2012 at 8:41 am

    Cant believe iv never found this blog before its brilliant!

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