Tell me about the images that influenced you the most when designing your Fall collectionâ€¦
Images from Richard Prince, such as the Cowboy ‘rephotograph’ (above), as well as images from artist Gabriel Orozco. Â I’m always referencing film stills– most recently from The Last Movie, El Topo, Holy Mountain, Solaris, and Sergio Leone’s Dollars Trilogy.
Last August I went on a trip to Casa Barragan and ever since have been looking to the images I captured on the streets of Mexico City for inspiration.
Which cultures or sub-cultures do you find yourself referencing the most?Â
I’m always trying to look at the masculine ideal as it might be expressed in cinema or otherwise in culture during different eras– the idea of the cowboy as one of those masculine ideals really intrigued me this past season. Â It was less about a specific sub-culture of cowboys but more about exploring an antiquated image of men and masculinity that is at once totally irrelevant to our daily lives, yet still a constant reference in media and fashion.
Is it challenging to maintain feminity when designing a menswear inspired women’s collection? Â
Indeed. TheÂ BoyÂ collection has really expanded my vocabulary as a designer, pushing me to look beyond menswear inspiration and make way for dresses, draping, and more feminine silhouettes in general to enhance the core elements (shirting and tailoring) that the line was originally comprised of.
Womenâ€™s is a real trick because the field is wide open in terms of shape and function of the pieces, yet there is that same expectation of repetition as men’s.
It’s as much about a system of dressing that takes cues from menswear (a particular jacket with a great pant, a certain way of layering) as it is about the literal elements. Once a structure is formed, the way you play and have fun with it is what makes a difference.
Do you find yourself taking greater risks when designing the women’s collections since you’re unable to wear the pieces?
Well, I have been known to try on a skirt in a fittingâ€¦
Seriously though, there’s creative freedom and risk in both, just in different ways.
Designing men’s is a completely personal process that’s directly tied to my own taste and personal styleâ€”it reflects my curiosity with culture, history and cinema, but the trick with menâ€™s is injecting something fresh into a pretty small set of wardrobe staples, with a pretty limited variation in shape.
After working in the film industry, are there certain themes that you find yourself looking to translate through clothing?
I think overall with the brand – the clothes, the imagery around them, our way of communicating with our customers – the tenets or messages that we try to stick to are honesty, purity, classicism, levity, and humor.