Today in Cathy Horyn’s reviews for NYT covering the women’s collections from Milan, she hails Raf Simons work for Jil Sander as “A Man Who Gets Women”.
She writes “he must have spent a lot of time contemplating women” – What?
To prove her point the Times runs the three pictures below from the Jil Sander show, What?
Sorry, but these looks do nothing to capture the diversity of sexiness, gentleness and strength of the modern women I know.
The collection looks just exactly like what it is – a very talented menswear designer trying to figure out how to translate his aesthetic to women’s while still honoring the reputation of a major design house.
The real kicker , though, is that in the very next paragraph she condemns Consuelo Castiglioni work at Marni’ (and “female designers” in general) by writing “Why can’t female designers create fashion commensurate with the largeness and complexity of their lives?”. What?
Raf is the star with that collection and Marni and Prada get thrown under the bus?
Cathy sums up Prada by saying “the murky layers, and the metropolis backdrop, came too close to Marc Jacob’s recent show”. What?
That is Miuccia’s fault?
Did Cathy see these looks from the Marni show?
Not only is this a new more sophisticated, sober, less BoHo-ish look for Marni but it speaks much more to the masculine/ feminine, sweet/sinister. refined/raw lives of modern women.