Wednesday, May 21, 2008

A Closer Look


I am currently in full-on Spring shopping mode.

Whenever that happens I usually start the process by looking at my photos from the previous year and seeing what ideas I want to pull forward.

This time ,while I was reviewing old images, I found this side view of one of my favorite Summer shots.

Even though this is a simple look it’s brilliantly executed and actually brings up several interesting issues regarding menswear.

First, the half-tuck shirt.
Very difficult to execute

Do you just tuck a tiny bit above the belt buckle?

Do you go for a full-frontal tuck as Mr. Cortina as done here?

I think that how the back of the shirt hangs in more important than the method of front tuckage. The length of the shirt has to be short enough so you dont have a ton of fabric folded up back there.
Polos are usually a safe option for the half-tuck.
In the Summer I will usually only do a half-tuck if I am wearing a jacket so only the front can be seen.
The half-tuck is undeniably comfortable and casual but loaded with so many obstacles.

Second, waistband rolling.
Apparently designers and manufactures think all men huge enormous butts.
I always have so much extra room in the back leg panel of my pants that it is really hard to make khakis look even remotely sexy.
I guess it is true that you never hear I guy asking “Do these Dockers make my butt look hot?”

When I have pants altered, the tailor will often bring up the back panels a little bit at the waistband in a similar way that he will remove a roll on the back of a sportcoat.

On a jacket it is called “dropping the collar” or ,in this situation, I guess it is called “dropping the waistband”

Again rolling the waistband is something i do often but only in the back half of the waistband and only when i am wearing a jacket or coat. (often the inner waistband fabric doesn’t blend with the fashion fabric, so you would only want to roll the back half anyway)

Third, two inch pant cuff
Dramatic, formal and yet sporty.
The wider cuff just feels more sturdy than a standard cuff width.

Fourth, Italian pant length
I am sure it will change someday (thats fashion) but right at or slightly above the ankle still looks good to me, especially for casual Summer pants.

Fifth, those half-sock/footie things to wear with dress shoes in the Summer for a “no sock” look.
Personally most of the ones I have tried have been very flimsy and never work well.
This Summer I am going with Nike “no show” running socks or soft suede loafers that are much more comfortable to wear in the heat than hard leather shoes.

I bet you didn’t think I could get five issues out of this look.

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109 comments

  1. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 8:46 am

    banana republic has some pretty decent loafer socks.

    s.

  2. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 8:59 am

    Agree with 8:46 on BR socks, mine work well and come in black and white. Well, my butt is rather on the huge side and so no waistband rolling for me. Plus these gentleman’s khakis are of better construction than most of us wear, and so they are better finished and the inside of the waist looks well. The half tuck? Does not look natural on me, looks like I am trying too hard- I pass but I like it on young guys. I like the sockless dress shoes, but I usually go with soft loafers- Tods are always favorites!!! This is the second instance where you post sockless dress shoes, maybe I shoulg give it a shot. Love the pictures! Jorge from West Palm Beach

  3. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 9:02 am

    I love his shirt and think he has the tuckage just right. i love his shoes (without socks). But the pants. i’ve looked,considered, thought about it and it’s a real dichotomy. The picture of Mr Cortina stood still the pants are almost the right length, but when he walks they are way too short. i wanted to shout ‘let down your cuffs!’ i like the shorter cut, i feel stylistically it’s a necessity as is the lighter fabric, but the way to do it is not to deepen the cuff and i think the length should be skimming the ankle bone, taking into account the movement of the fabric as you walk.

  4. tobias

    May 21, 2008 at 9:03 am

    Sart,please edit,edit edit.

    I love the blog for the photographs and how we all comment in our own way,so many different views on a look,please don’t give us all these well meant tips,do we really need them.

    Are you testing the waters so to speak to see which direction you want to take your blog in?

    Give us more photographs instead of more words.

    PS Please post this comment,sometimes when things get a little personal,you don’t post the comment!

  5. Polly

    May 21, 2008 at 9:09 am

    Love the shirt sleeves rolled up on the bicep.

  6. The Sartorialist

    May 21, 2008 at 9:11 am

    so Tobias
    are you saying you want everyone to comment BUT me?

    This is my personal blog and I try to keep it as real as possible and right now these are the things I am thinking about.

    I look forward to hearing what other men (and women) think about the issues I brought up today.

    and if you think I dont post criticism of myself then just check the “makeover” post

  7. Sterling-haired Lady

    May 21, 2008 at 9:13 am

    See your quandary re: (1) the half-tuck, but for me, it very much relates to (2)–there are those of us who do notice if the Dockers make your butt look hot, so I prefer the shirt tucked : )

  8. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 9:15 am

    Sart,
    Regarding pant cuff, you may want to try a 1 7/8″ cuff. Something my tailor in London and I have discussed at length-pardon the pun. I’m 5’11″, 165lbs. It just looks correct for my size. 2″ is too fashiony and 1 1/2″ is a joke.

    Thanks for the terrific site.

    William

  9. Sterling-haired Lady

    May 21, 2008 at 9:25 am

    PS re the woman in this photo—love her shoes! Especially like the way that the straps mimic the neckline of her dress

  10. Sean

    May 21, 2008 at 9:28 am

    I don’t know why you keep featuring this guy – I don’t even think he dresses particularly well – sure, he has a couple of *key* looks going on (loafers without socks, shirt tucked in but out) that seem to be de rigeur at the minute but I don’t see anything particularly distinguishing about him or his look – is this a case of the Emperor’s New Clothes?

    On a more positive note, am very much looking forward to seeing the results of the trip to London.

  11. Erica

    May 21, 2008 at 9:29 am

    Oh, I live for the half-tuck. With the perfect belt, it’s like an over-the-counter cure to an awkward shirt/pant situation (maybe it’s different for men, though).

    Thanks for the post…

  12. fashionaddict

    May 21, 2008 at 9:32 am

    I was just thinking “how is he managing to find all these things to discuss out of one look” and then I got to your last comment, which made me laugh.

    Nice to know that you don’t take things over-seriously, even though many seem to. From time to time, it’s always nice for me to know what the photographer thinks.

    By the way, the full frontal tuck is better, kind of makes the back billow like coattails.

  13. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 9:46 am

    I’m sure I’m not the only one who will disagree with Tobias. I wish Sart would comment even more, on both the men’s and women’s posts! This is a man who spends his days observing style, and the pictures are the proof: he has exceptional judgment. Sart, please keep helping us see what you see.

  14. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 9:49 am

    Tobias, I for one, really appreciate when Sart writes. It’s not all that often, but it can be really good. You can always just skim over it if you’re not interested. I’ve followed this blog for well over a year and my impression is that his written comments, including the longer ones, are much appreciated.

    Some wonderful posts on Cary Grant and Fred Astaire from a while back come to mind. Remember the discussions there? Classic!

    Blog on, Sart!

  15. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 9:52 am

    I hope and pray that some design team who reads your blog will sit up and take heed regarding the size of men’s pants.

    Even Humpty Dumpty has skinny legs so while the waistband might be huge on even the stoutest of men’s pants, the legs and butt must remain small. But again, this must be a manufacturing shortcut, like all cheap women’s stuff has its signature flaws that people mistake for trend.

    Men’s pants must be made leaner in the butt and thigh. I hope someone really hears that.

  16. Adam

    May 21, 2008 at 9:54 am

    This coordination is really all about the execution, and if your personality/character can pull it off, rather than trying too hard. I think this is a fairly easy look to do.
    As far as the shortened pants, it’s a casual, cool look. A touch of sartorial-ness with the cuff (like the same thing as shorts with a cuff).
    In terms of rolling the waistband: I haven’t really seen it on men, but usually women in awful sweat pants and Uggs… (barf).
    However, this is well executed.
    Sart, might I suggest Etro pants, or Maralunga trousers? They have great details in the waistband, if you were to roll them.

  17. Idia'Dega

    May 21, 2008 at 9:58 am

    Sarto

    This is why I love your blog. Comments and details + great images. Looking and discussing the issues that make a look wonderful or challenging or stylish, is the the whole point.

    These spring/summer details are great. Both the post of the lady in the dress above (perfect fit as you say) and the discussion here. Love it.

    One reason is that I studied fashion in grad school, I spent hours, days, weeks on such details – designing them in the garment and display,photographing the final piece. Fashion in not just a 2 sec “like” “dislike” thing. It is intellectual, aesthetic, social, cultural, fun…important.

  18. jeff

    May 21, 2008 at 10:18 am

    the BR socks are okay, although i would like a bit more heft to the sock.

    does anyone else have any experience with the nike “no show”?

    they look as if the sock might stick out above the shoe at the ankle and would definitely show on the top of the foot when wearing driving mocs.

  19. froggy_grow

    May 21, 2008 at 10:25 am

    I love how his seemingly simple style upstages the woman with him in the first picture. Her look is screaming for attention, but his approach is SO much better!

  20. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 10:27 am

    I also disagree with Tobias. I feel the personal comments from someone so suited to share the knowledge is what sets the sartorialist apart from the “streetpeepers” and what have you.
    P.S. This post legitimized the half-tuck for me! I have legs for miles and no torso. This will change everything.

  21. tj

    May 21, 2008 at 10:28 am

    Half tuck = Silly. This is the very sort of thing that people will look at in 5 years and say, “What was I thinking?”. Tuck or don’t tuck. Half tuck is a trendy joke.
    Waistband rolling = Silly. As you mentioned, any good tailor can alter the pants to fit, so you won’t need to fool around with the wasitband.
    Pant Cuff and Pant Length = Personal preference. 2 inch cuffs make a statement, but 2 inches is right on the border between the statement, “I am on the cutting edge of fashion.” and the statement, “I am a clown.” Same thing applies to going too short with pant length. You are walking on a tightrope. If you have a tailor who can get it just right, it can look cutting edge-chic, but missing by half an inch can push you over that edge.
    For summer shoes, I like the look of woven leather uppers. With traditional socks or with half-socks, the woven leather allows for some air flow making feet more comfortable.

  22. Duchesse

    May 21, 2008 at 10:30 am

    The half tuck is the popped collar of 2008.

  23. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 10:34 am

    Can you post the gentlemans full name?

  24. Pamcasso

    May 21, 2008 at 10:36 am

    I’m starting to really fall in love with this pant length… I think I’ll have to try it out on myself:)Anyway, gorgeous inspiration, and you are totally right about the seat in men’s pants. I really enjoy the direction you’ve been taking with your blog with the interviews and more commentary. I know you probably don’t visit a lot of newer blogs, but I wanted to tell you that I’m doing a project on mine about the classic white shirt and jeans combination, and how individuals make this look their own, and I’m hoping for people to submit photos of themselves/people they know in their version of it. I have posted a few of your pictures as inspiration!

  25. bubba

    May 21, 2008 at 11:00 am

    Keep up the comments !!

    Any photos of the women, her outfit looks stunning !

  26. Elizabeth

    May 21, 2008 at 11:02 am

    I’m sorry, but the half tucked shirt reminds me of grade school. It was the cool thing to do with your oversized t-shirt, you know. All he would need to be my 11 year-old self would be a pair of sophie shorts and some (slightly scrunched) tube socks.

  27. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 11:06 am

    Hi Sart
    Two words: SmartWool socks. SmartWool makes fantastic no show socks. Technically they are women’s (as in the sizing) but really, I think, they are uni-sex.

    Also, to paraphrase the song, “It’s your blog, and you can post what you want to.” Personally, I have been loving the past few days. But I’m easy – I always love it. Many thanks for a super terrific, always insightful and entertaining blog.

  28. Tooluser

    May 21, 2008 at 11:14 am

    I love the way you sneak jokes in every once in a while to make sure people are paying attention!

  29. tobias

    May 21, 2008 at 11:27 am

    Sart,

    If this is the way you choose to respond to my comment,I will refrain from commenting in future but,I will keep on enjoying the Sartorialist,which is one of my favorite blogs!

    Best,Tobias

  30. Nina

    May 21, 2008 at 11:33 am

    love her shoes, looks just great =)

  31. Thomas

    May 21, 2008 at 11:44 am

    I give the half-tucked shirt a 7 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. And I must have a huge butt, because lately pants have not fit me in the slightest…damn skinny jeans trend.

  32. Sabrina

    May 21, 2008 at 11:45 am

    Good eye for details. I love this pant length but most men seem to be frightened by it. It must be all the times they’ve seen someone imitate the stereotyped nerd look by hiking up their pants and rolling the bottom up.

  33. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 11:51 am

    Sart,

    Though I love your blog for its photos, I love it EVEN MORE for your comments like these, as well as the style profiles BECAUSE it teaches me about fashion. PLEASE continue to do this, as the average layperson like me does not catch all of these things on our own when we look at your photos.

  34. J.D.

    May 21, 2008 at 11:53 am

    Love the comments, Sart. Love your take on things. Love that you still consider this your personal blog.

    Keep it up!

  35. Carolina Lange

    May 21, 2008 at 12:14 pm

    I just love Italian pant length! It looks great!
    His look is perfect! Great colors!

  36. zerzanfan

    May 21, 2008 at 12:27 pm

    Europeans in button-down collars! There’s your fifth issue for discussion. When did this happen? it really is an ‘American moment’ in fashion right now, I guess.

  37. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 12:35 pm

    Sart: the pant length here is terrific: I don’t know why, but he avoids drifitng into TB territory (which often looks too costumey and clown-like for my liking). The bottom photo remains one of the best, and even with the semi-tuck (which I personally don’t like, unless the shirt is very short, sort of just below waistline length), the dude just always looks great.

    But let’s not forget Ms Della Rossa’s ever phenomenal legs and shoes-she also seldom misses.

    Energie

  38. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 12:45 pm

    It’s a matter of “fierce”. I am a half tucker. It’s almost unconscious at this point. I find it works better with leaner clothing. I like the freedom of un-tucked and the perception of tucked in front, especially to show the relationship of shirt, belt, pant, etc. I just center the front and tuck, then taper off to the sides. Kind of my signature. I like the spirit of luxury gone a little awry. You have to be the type and own it. This gentleman in the shot certainly achieves that. Find your “Sartorial Rascal”. Thank You.

  39. XYZ

    May 21, 2008 at 12:55 pm

    i like this white simple pants and “no show” socks.
    you look nice in this style.

    my opinion is that there will be many pants of different length including ones you wear, someday.
    and,,,of course, new shape too.

    some of my friends like to wear “no show” socks in the dress shoes.
    truely, they also seem to care about the combination of shoes and socks.

  40. boo

    May 21, 2008 at 12:59 pm

    Sart, my husband solved the half-sock footie thing by buying them in the women’s department! He saw them when he was with me one day and they worked much better than the men’s version…they really can’t be seen and are comfortable for him.

  41. fashionfatwa

    May 21, 2008 at 1:04 pm

    This is certified halal. I love his whole look and his shoes are simply fantastic. This is the best execution of casual fab I’ve ever seen.

    Her shoes though — ayy haram!! There’s some kind of bondage-gone-wrong going on there.

  42. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 1:19 pm

    A quick note on pants with a leaner butt and thigh: I find Uniqlo does a good job of this and I have no butt to speak of. I wouldn’t buy a pair of jeans from anyone else.

  43. Donna

    May 21, 2008 at 1:30 pm

    Sart, your comments always make me “see” the photo in detail, and I appreciate that. I normally would take in the whole look and move on but you are teaching me to see the fine points. I even bought a book on men’s clothing and have learned much about fabric, color, and style from it. Thanks for the awakening and please keep up the comments !!!

  44. Simon Crompton

    May 21, 2008 at 1:57 pm

    One more vote for more comments on images from Sart. I think these are just as invaluable as the photos, and given the dearth of good menswear journalism out there, they are really needed.

    No offence to any commenters here, but I pretty much always find Sart’s comments more interesting than anyone else’s.

  45. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 2:03 pm

    You can try terry cloth insoles in dress shoes and get the “no sock look” with no socks. Most can be washed. I bought a couple for my husband and now he is hooked.

  46. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 2:09 pm

    Completely agree with 9:46 and 9:49. I like it when Sart gives feedback. I often find myself thinking ‘I wonder how Sart would respond to that comment?’
    ps – Style Profile on Mr Cortina??

  47. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 2:23 pm

    I was perusing the older pics before the new ones were posted, and guess who I was looking at? Yes, that’s right– Mr. Cortina! Your portrait of him in his vintage Fred Perry polo and chino with his beat-up Guccis was perfection. And here he is again– with his razor-sharp sense of proportion and killer but effortless style.

    –PLO

  48. Laurence John

    May 21, 2008 at 2:51 pm

    oh the effort it takes to look as if you haven’t tried.

  49. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 3:00 pm

    I love dress shirts from Zara (the ones that come in S, M, L etc) but they are too long to leave untucked and as a resut, I have been doing the half tuck – fully tucked in in the front and starting to come out at my hip bones – for years now. Never saw it before so thanks. Damn, now my style is gone.

  50. donna AND navaz

    May 21, 2008 at 3:13 pm

    Wow, fantastic critique! I tend to do the side-tuck which is more side-front but can be high maintenance, esp every time you go to the bathroom and have to spend ages re-doing the tuck. Loving the term ‘Italian length’ for trousers. Such a wealth of sartorialist info here…love it!
    PS, sorry Tobias, I disagree!
    Also, the guy featured is a stylist called George Cortina…

  51. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 3:31 pm

    i have been trying since last summer to find the perfect “soft suede loafer”… any help out there? thanks!

  52. Torben

    May 21, 2008 at 3:37 pm

    It’s funny, cause you partly made me think (more) like this…

    Btw. I’m gonna try to buy a similar “outfit” and try to make it work…brilliant.

  53. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 3:41 pm

    One more thing. I know this is gonna sound like a copy cat, but so what hehe….but do you, or other readers know what brands this guy is wearing/where to get these items?

  54. Jingoist

    May 21, 2008 at 4:41 pm

    It’s funny, but I have the same problem with the excess material in my pants as well. It’s why I buy slim-fit jeans- as much for a slightly more fitted leg as it is for the better fit through the seat than regular/traditional fit denim which I find gives no definition to a man’s derriere (and not meant in a “hey check out my butt way”, but rather just proper fit).

    As for socks, I wear an Addidas cut sock that works pretty well with shoes. Although, you do have to test them out depending on the cut of the shoe.

  55. kessie

    May 21, 2008 at 4:49 pm

    I looove the shoes with no socks look, especially in warm weather climates. It’s an “I take care of my appearance, but not enough to follow the you have to wear socks with shoes” rule. I heard a couple of men on a golf course last summer in LA talking about this same subject and were discussing how it was just as attractive to women as cleavage is to men. They called this look “manclage.” (pronounced main-cla-j)

  56. Ann (MobayDP)

    May 21, 2008 at 4:54 pm

    Oh my! Do men really have this many issues when deciding what to wear? LOL!

    I love it when you comment on the pictures, Sart. I, for one, wouldn’t have been able to find five issues with his outfit. I would have given him a brief glance and then would have tried desperately to get a better look at those shoes his companion is wearing. :~)

    I have seen this pant length and even though I have tried desperately to like it, I must admit that I do not. Nor do I like the sockless dress shoes.

  57. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 5:00 pm

    I don’t think Tobias is SO off the mark, I have had experience of comments not being posted simply because I was (politely) critical of the outfit pictured.

    This guys look is perfect simply because it’s imperfect. He has a really natural, carefree feel about the way he’s put this together. I think the intention, the beauty of this outfit is lost when we start deconstructing every little detail. It’s great to pick on these things but the reason why most guys can’t achieve this look is because they over think each piece and consequently it looks forced. That kind of intense analysis works with a formal outfit-a suit, a complicated avant-garde look etc but here it kind of defeats the purpose to turn it into a paint-by-numbers exercise. You have a great eye and took a great shot of an incredibly stylish man. Sometimes that’s enough.

  58. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 5:07 pm

    I’ve actually had a lot of trouble with BR loafer socks, they ride up while I’m wearing them and never stay put. If anyone has any other reccommedations…

  59. David

    May 21, 2008 at 5:12 pm

    the fact that you have to debate with yourself about how to properly execute the half-tuck reveals what a phony gesture it is. i thought this seemed played out last year. when it doesn’t end up looking like an affectation, it looks like a mistake.

  60. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 5:22 pm

    Sart, please ignore the gentleman who said you need to “edit” your comments. Some of us who are still trying to understand style find them incredibly helpful…..and besides, your insights and personality are 80% of what this blog is about, anyway.

  61. Armilyn & David

    May 21, 2008 at 5:45 pm

    My gay bosses used to do the half-tuck back in 2006. Aside from them, I’ve only seen it in fashion ads/editorials. Frankly I’ve always thought it was a very forced look. Why not start the reverse-tuck, tucking in the back and leaving out the front? That way you could show off your rolled waistband.

  62. plum

    May 21, 2008 at 5:51 pm

    I can’t believe I’m the first to mention this but I’m guessing the truly stylish almongst us don’t navel-gaze about things like pant cuffs and rolled-waistbands. Reminds me of my grade 9 and girls with their perfectly folded “neckerchiefs” Come on.

  63. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 6:23 pm

    First off Tobias…shut-it, please.

    Second…

    Brooks Brothers makes the best chino in the world. they have roomy and straight. I have a small butt and the straight fits (Clark for Flat and Thompson for Pleats) look great.

    I rarely use the half tuck…when I do i pull the right half front tuck and the left hanging out. The right shirt panel with the buttons makes this very easy and natural. You are right. The half tuck must be used on shirts that are short. otherwise it looks ridiculous. I guess that makes it a 1/4 tuck :-)

  64. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 6:53 pm

    Sart,
    You are such a NERD!!! :-) I mean this in the absolutely best possible way! (I have been reading you daily since Dec. 05).
    No, I didn’t think you’d get five issues out of that look… I underestimated you!

  65. Madalena

    May 21, 2008 at 7:45 pm

    Hi Sart!
    Lisbon needs you… Why not???

    Love the lady shoes…

  66. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 8:03 pm

    Why wear loafer socks when you can enjoy the freedom and pleasure of actually going sockless?

  67. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 8:12 pm

    oh my goodness, does anyone know who makes the lady’s shoes?

  68. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 8:22 pm

    Tobias – carry on commenting to your heart’s content because Sart approves the comments and he’ll publish what he likes. Remember people, it’s Sart’s own blog, this is Sart World and that’s why we love it!

  69. Jessica

    May 21, 2008 at 8:36 pm

    buy geox shoes!! then you never have to wear socks!!

  70. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 9:52 pm

    Funny, it seems the guys who take the biggest risks, probably with out even knowing it , seem to get slammed. And the guy who wears the “standard issue”, and he probably DOES think about it, gets showered with praise. (overly) There really is no point here. To each his own. My experience is just that, experience. Knowing the feel & energy of all types of clothes. For me, getting dressed is everything & anything. A hassle as much as an exciting journey. Different doesn’t have to be a bad thing if you’re not really sure.

  71. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 10:18 pm

    I just have to admire the bravery of the lady sporting four inch heels on cobblestone streets, I don’t think I would have the guts.
    As to Mr. Cortina, I don’t know him, nor do I care who he is but he is just sloppily dressed and trying to pass it as a fashion statement.
    Rolled waists, half tucked shirts, too short pants?, sloppiness is slopinness, no matter who wears it.

  72. -h of candid cool

    May 21, 2008 at 10:35 pm

    im still drooling over her shoes

  73. kjinXhedi

    May 21, 2008 at 10:55 pm

    Calvin Klein has a GREAT set of no show socks/liners that work like no other. Check them out: http://www.freshpair.com/Calvin-Klein-3-Pack-No-Show-Liner-ACE171.html
    They have elastic all around and a silicone grippy panel in the back so it stays on no matter what. LOVE them.
    The BR ones didn’t work for me, as they would slip off in the heel.

  74. Anonymous

    May 21, 2008 at 11:14 pm

    I do enjoy this blog… the pictures, the locations, the commentary, the reader comments – I usually feel no need to add my opinion. In fact, after several years of reading, I have only ever commented on one previous occasion re Anna Piaggi’s look requiring more consideration than might be apparent.

    Today, I feel compelled to speak up. Since blogs generally belong to and represent the personality, interests, journal, diary, musings of the author and only by the host’s choice allows readers to post comments … it is — at the very least — rude for a guest to ask the host to remain silent in his own home. Honestly, I was gobsmacked by the nerve and entitlement taken by Tobias. Re the poster that agreed and felt he had not been posted on previous occassion — Perhaps if a comment doesn’t get published, it is because the tone of the post was mean-spirited without being helpful on any level. If that is the case, Bravo! There is plenty of negativity and meanness in the world.

    Scott, I really enjoy reading your thoughtful reflections; the civilized essence of your blog is enviable. You entertain, educate, and contribute to a better dressed planet. Keep up the good work!

    D.

    ilohcf

  75. Anonymous

    May 22, 2008 at 12:05 am

    The half tuck is like a mullet: all business up front and party time in the back. It’s possibly even more contrived than the faux-tuck, which just reveals the belt buckle. It’s very fratboy and should be avoided.

  76. Anonymous

    May 22, 2008 at 1:03 am

    Half-tuck shirt difficult to execute ???
    Maybe if You want it to be half-tuck. Otherwise it sort of happens
    by itself – especially when You don´t want it !

  77. bdiglett2

    May 22, 2008 at 2:13 am

    tobias- the reason why 99 percent ( you being the 1 percent) of us love Sart is because of his wisdom in style and sharing it….this being a prime example..

    Sart- you keep on kicking ass

    Anyone- do you think short men can pull off this pant length….

  78. Tina

    May 22, 2008 at 4:55 am

    First of all thank you for your blog. I have discovered it last week and since that moment, I review it every day. Sorry for my horrible English. I am Spanish and I can see the different ways people dress in differents countrys!
    Thank you sartorialist!!!

  79. iluwfashion

    May 22, 2008 at 7:42 am

    Very stylish but yet casual. Very cool trousers, haven’t seen any similar ones before.

  80. Anonymous

    May 22, 2008 at 9:33 am

    what shoesthat woman have ! awesome<3

    mut maybe little booring outfit wothout those shoes!

  81. jeff

    May 22, 2008 at 9:47 am

    i have been doing the tuck just above the belt and front tuck for years. all of my friends love it and many ask how to execute it properly. fully tucked just seems so dorky and untucked so sloppy.

  82. Anonymous

    May 22, 2008 at 12:17 pm

    I agree with 12:05am. Like the mullet, the tukket (i.e. the half-tuck) is trying to achieve two looks at once: business in front, party in back. The only look it achieves: abysmal.

  83. Anonymous

    May 22, 2008 at 1:13 pm

    great post, Sart.

    my only problem is with the half-tuck, or “Tennessee Tuck” as i’ve heard it called. i think it’s just hard to pull it off and look put-together at the same time. even the most casual looks should be put-together, i think.

    thanks for your work.

  84. sandra

    May 22, 2008 at 1:45 pm

    but(t) I KNEW that you could.
    Love those trousers!

  85. Asian Models Blogger

    May 22, 2008 at 2:29 pm

    Although Mr. Cortina looks great in the photos, I personally feel that the style is too trendy, youthful and Euro-centric for NYC. It would probably work better in Rome or Capri.

    And to tuck or to half-tuck, that is the question! :-)

  86. miteka

    May 22, 2008 at 3:18 pm

    Have I ever told you that I click on to your blog for inspiration???…

    looooooove her shoes!!!

    Sartorialist, you rock!!

  87. Anonymous

    May 22, 2008 at 4:28 pm

    Just a heads up on the no sock sock front.
    Paul Smith Japan does a good one as does Falke.

  88. soren

    May 22, 2008 at 5:08 pm

    Try though ye may, I am not wearing floods. Period. I’m not trying to hear that.

  89. Anonymous

    May 22, 2008 at 10:14 pm

    Anybody know what those glasses are?

  90. Anonymous

    May 23, 2008 at 11:27 am

    Hi Sart
    Just a follow up from my earlier post (anon 11:06) – I was at the sock store today and SmartWool does make a men’s no show sock – If I remember correctly, called “Deception.” If you’ve never tried their socks, they will rock your sock world.

    PS. I have no stake in SmartWool – nor do I expect you to post this comment (unless you want, of course.) It is mostly just a friendly PSA.

  91. Anonymous

    May 23, 2008 at 10:33 pm

    just wanted to say that i tried the half tuck and i really like it. did not have to worry about tucking my shirt back in when i move around.

  92. travis

    May 23, 2008 at 10:46 pm

    About no show socks, I actually buy kids no show socks. They work great for me.

  93. Anonymous

    May 24, 2008 at 9:47 am

    Hey is anyone paying attention to her shoes.

  94. Anonymous

    May 25, 2008 at 11:30 am

    I agree, her shoes look lethal!

    The weather their looks really miserable and I keep wondering whether his bare ankles must be cold – it’s really distracting.

    I love your comments! Although I am interested in it I don’t know anything much about style-in- detail sort of things so I really find it fascinating when you do post, please keep posting!

  95. Nick Couch

    May 26, 2008 at 8:40 am

    Is he a shirt half in, or shirt half out kind of guy? Suppose it depends on your outlook on life…

  96. Anonymous

    May 26, 2008 at 10:45 am

    If it’s warm enough to go sans socks, then it’s warm enough to wear close-toed sandals.

    This whole devil-may-care look is not real, it’s obviously been obsessed over in minute detail. Depressing.

  97. amy

    May 27, 2008 at 10:12 am

    he’s hot hot hot.

  98. ina

    May 27, 2008 at 1:56 pm

    This is amazing I love the fun and funky proportions.

  99. ina

    May 27, 2008 at 1:57 pm

    This sounds a bit like trying to hard…

  100. Anonymous

    May 27, 2008 at 10:27 pm

    Does anyone have more links or nyc store names on where to get good no-show socks? I like the CK ones but they only come in black. Also can not find the Smart Wool.

  101. Anonymous

    May 28, 2008 at 7:22 am

    i always thought wearing trouser lengths at ankle length was unflattering….
    i wonder if that guy would look taller if he had longer/shorter trouser legs

  102. Ange

    May 29, 2008 at 9:41 pm

    Above the ankle pant length is damn sexy.

  103. jana

    May 31, 2008 at 12:34 pm

    a month or so ago, i bought the nike sport ones too and they are ok!

  104. Anonymous

    May 31, 2008 at 7:44 pm

    I have to comment on that woman’s shoes! Good gosh! She can really work it!

  105. Hallie

    June 1, 2008 at 8:17 pm

    I am not usually fond of this pant length, but this man’s pulling it off. I love how effortless and clean cut he looks. He looks very French or at least European. Though the combo of the tucking technique and cuffed waistband are making it a bit sloppy.

  106. Anonymous

    June 2, 2008 at 3:25 pm

    For “no show” socks that are comfortable, durable, and which will prevent blisters, you might try a Vans shoe store…they make wonderfully comfortable skateboarding shoes (e.g., the notorious “checkered slipper” favored by ska bands…very punk).

    The Vans house brand no-show socks are designed for skating (= savage abuse) and are slick enough to prevent blisters.

    Their black slip-on skate slippers are quite nice, too; simple, stylish, and tough as hell. The soles last really, really well (they have to, because the top of a skateboard is covered with industrial sandpaper so you don’t fall off at 30 mph, or while flying through the air).

    Good stuff. I’d totally wear their black skate slippers with a blazer, because unlike loafers, they absorb shock rather well.

  107. Anonymous

    July 12, 2008 at 8:02 am

    Good god! Please! Nooo!
    Black(!!!!)double buckle Lobbs with no socks!!
    That does it for me. I need a rest now. Bye.
    Xavier Benoit

  108. Anonymous

    July 12, 2008 at 8:06 am

    And the pants!! Maybe 4 inches too short.
    What’s wrong with the world? Why? I really don’t deserve this punishment.
    Xavier Benoit

  109. Ilovesocks!

    February 6, 2012 at 9:45 pm

    Looking for no show socks? Try Ninja Sox (www.ninjasox.com). They have a no-slip feature so you won’t have to worry about slipage.

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