Thursday, June 5, 2008

On the Street…..American Beauty, Greenwich Village


To me, this is a perfect “inspiration” shot.

I think she looks great just her way she is (very American, healthy, full of life, it just feels like Summer) but if i was a designer I would immediately start thinking “this would also look great if it had a pintuck detail right here…. or a braiding detail on the strap…or this color/print/pattern might….”

I guess what I’m saying is that the dress here is important and yet complete irrelevant. The value is it makes me start thinking of a thousand different variations. I could totally imagine a designer printing out a shot like this, taking white-out to all the specific design details, keeping the overall silhouette and begin designing Resort 09.

To be honest, I think the more perfect “a look” is, the harder it is to be inspired by because it is difficult to imagine it any other way and on any other person. The ability to look at this shot and not see the dress (I know it sounds weird) is very valuable here.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

On the Street…..Shorts & Cardigan, Here and Abroad



I love wearing shorts in the Summer but it is often hard to feel “dressed” wearing shorts while maintaining the casual feel that you want from shorts.

Working shorts (especially the dressier wool shorts I’ve been seeing a lot lately) back to a cardigan seems like a great solution. At least everytime time i see it done it usually looks really good.

For me this Summer I’m wearing a lot of shorts with super-lightweight, unlined jackets.
They work even better for me because they fit a little looser and when I am out shooting all day I have more to carry (extra battery , CF cards etc) than I can carry in a cardigan.

I have recently bought jackets from Engineered Garments, Junya Watanabe, and 45 RPM. I find I’m having an Italian Winter and a Japanese Summer.

I will have to do a separate post on these jackets soon, maybe during Pitti when I am really putting them to the test.

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

On the Street…..Best Use of Vintage, Soho

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

On the Street…..Black & White, West Soho

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

On the Street…..Ian Hylton, Soho

I used to work with Ian when I had a showroom and he was designing for one of the companies I represented.

He is an original Sartorialist – he really love the act of dressing-up.

Think a male Diana Vreeland.

Ian lives in China now and we just happened to bump into each other in Soho yesterday.

Like everytime I see him, I was completely blown away by the perfection of his suit (MTM, of course).

Heavy cotton, unlined and must have been perfect for yesterdays early Spring weather in NYC.

While he is in town I am going to shoot Ian a few more times because he is one of those guys that I can’t wait to see what he comes up with each day.

Of, course I asked about the manbag (I hope it doesn’t distract this post from the perfection of the suit).

Apparently it takes so much paper money to buy anything in Hong Kong dollars that he started carrying the bag just to tote around the cash.

Sounds like a perfectly Vreeland-ish response to me.

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

On the Street…..Mercer St, Soho



Yesterday I shot two people wearing great items from Uniqlo.

I have only been in the store once or twice but I will have to start taking a closer look.

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Top 5 Post-Couture Designers

My Top 5 Post-Couture Designers

1. Armani -first designer to create something revolutionary in both mens and womens – he is the 80′s

2. CDG , Yohji – Proved that true artists can also create a viable business. They are wildcards that always seem timeless and of-the-moment simultaneously

3. Halston – I have never been a huge fan but Halston and YSL define the 70′s

4. Prada – this story is still being told but , for me, she defines the 90′s

5. Marc Jacobs – I think he will prove to be America’s most important designer yet. He can deliver $5 bangles in his Marc by Marc store on Bleecker to the most refined items at LV/MJ with the same level of integrity. I think that is totally modern.

5A Ralph Lauren – Few designers have ever created such a complete world of style so successfully and across so many various categories. His ability to do that is remarkable.

Where does McQueen fit in?
I have often asked my friends in the business what was their all-time favorite fashion show and a McQueen show (there have been too many blockbusters to name just one) has been the most consistent answer.

Does size matter?
How can you fit in Dries Van Noten or Margiela or Westwood. Should there be a Top 5 Independent List? but 4 of my top 5/5a are still independents.

And your Top 5 Post-Couture All-Time Greatest designers?
(I think it would be more interesting if we it based on who had the “biggest impact” on thier time period.)

Monday, June 2, 2008

On the Street…..In Black & Red, London

Monday, June 2, 2008

Yves Saint Laurent Dead at 71

Yves Saint Laurent died yesterday in Paris.

I was too young to live the original YSL experience but from what I know of fashion history it must have seemed very exciting, sexy, dangerous, innovative, and beautifully crafted – everything that fashion (at it’s very best) is suppose to be about

YSL is generally considered one of the top five designers of all-time.
1. Dior (extra points for having discovered YSL )
2. Chanel
3. Yves Saint Laurent
4. Armani (created a revolution in both womens and mens, no other designer has ever had as much influence in both categories)
5. ?????

Who is number #5?
Lagerfeld?
Balenciaga?
Yohji or Rei? (it seems difficult to have a discussion about design without them but does the size of their business exclude them from the the top echelon?)

Like in sports, I think when we discuss fashion designers we will have to create a line between High Couture (pre-70′s) and post-Couture (70′s – forward)

Today, I would love to hear your Top 5 All-Time Greatest Designers.

Tomorrow I would love to hear your list of Top 5 All-Time Greatest Modern Designers (post 70′s)

Monday, June 2, 2008

On the Street…The DB Vest Suit, London