Monday, May 4, 2015
The new Costume Institute exhibit,Â China: Through The Looking Glass, explores the impact of Chinese aesthetics on Western fashion.
The Exhibit kicked off this morning with a press preview which will be followed by the Annual Met Gala tonight. Officially, the exhibit opens to the public this Thursday, May 7th and will continue on through the summer, closing on August 16th.
The scale of the exhibit is fantastic at two and half times the size of previous costume Institute exhibitions at the MET.Â China: Through the Looking Glass, incorporates the work of over 150 designs by 40 designers (with the work of such designers as Paul Poiret, Alexander McQueen, Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent on prominent display).Â Besides from the gorgeous clothes themselves, the beauty of the exhibit comes through in the combination of elements at play. Curator Andrew Bolton spoke during the opening remarks this morning, commenting on how the set design took cues from Alice In Wonderland: Through the Looking Glass. There are mirrors and reflective surfaces throughout, creating a dreamlike world that when paired with music and film clips (keep your eyes open for video of the enchanting actress Anna May Wong), creates an enchanted experience as you wander from room to room.
Friday, May 1, 2015
1.Â This article in Vogue magazine back in the early 80s was the first to open my eyes to Giorgio Armani. It was the first time I had seen a designer/design portrayed in a serious way. I thought he looked so cool and I loved that he had a bicycle on the runway. Actually that bike added a lighthearted and sporty touch that made the Armani persona so intriguing to me.
2.Â The party begins! The opening of Armani Silos with a retrospective of Giorgio Armani’s forty year career!
3. Â One of the 160 looks at tonight’s Armani retrospective show! Just over her shoulder is Leonardo DiCaperio, Cate Blanchett, Sophia Loren and just a bit further down was Tina Turner and Glenn Close. Seriously glamorous night in Milan.
4.Â This is Giorgio Armani modeling his own clothes in Italian Vogue November 1974. This is the text that accompanied it translated into English in the back of that issue “No doubt, this is the year of his debut, even if, strange as it may sound, when thinking of him that for years now is going full swing. Until yesterday, after all, he never showed his collections with his name. He kept away from the show-window. He allowed his collections to be shown with the labels of the firms with which he collaborated. But he could not miss a date with Milan, the new center of men’s fashion. Finally he decided: he joined all his collections and introduced himself personally in the halls of the extremely old Carminati restaurant in the Piazza del Duomo for the Spring dress rehearsal.”
5.Â Giorgio Armani’s first ad in Italian Vogue September 1974 announcing his first runway show on October 10th at 5:30 Ristorante Carminati. In the ad he explains that he will present his work for Hilton, Gibo, Montedoro, Sicons and Gabrielli for the first time under his own label. I can’t think of another designer that had entered the fashion world in quite this manner. I imagine the negotiations between all those Italian brands must have been very delicate. I’ve never heard him discuss this part of his early career which is too bad because it really speaks to his business as well as his creative genius.
6.Â How can Renata Molho keep getting more beautiful every year?
*Articles and Images from my personal Armani Archive & photos from last nights event.
Thursday, April 30, 2015
We are entering into a period of rapid change.
In this week alone what has been theÂ industry’s daily newspaper for as long as most of us can remember, has morphed into a weekly edition. Lucky magazine is being rumored to reduce to an online shop only, and Style.com will be absorbed under the umbrella of Vogue.com as a newly established VogueRunway.com (article from WWD here).
The domain Style.com will continue to exist, but as an e-commerce site only.
WWD seems to be taking the right step for their publication. They maintain their importance online by offering quick of the minute news as it occurs onÂ WWD.com, and by condensing the once daily paper into a weekly edition, their presence within print still remains.
Even though this makes sense for now, there is no denying print is steadily on its way out. The question magazines are now facing is how to make that money back through their online platforms. It will be interesting to see if these magazines online shops (LuckyShops, ShopBazaar, and the soon to be revamped Style.com) will really be where people go to buy.
Thursday, April 30, 2015
This is the first real great collection of Irving Penn’s work in one book. I’ve always wanted to own it and I finally found a copy in good condition at a good price at my favorite bookstore in Paris,Â Comptoir de lâ€™Image (post on the bookstore here).
Moments Preserved: Eight Essays In Photographs And Words
Published byÂ Simon & Schuster; 1st edition (1960)