Wednesday, March 14, 2012

On the Street… Lino, Milan

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

On the Street…..Window Shopping, Paris

For me, these photographs highlight the under-appreciated relationship of outerwear to shoes (and bags).  For several months a year, except for the people we work and live with, this is how most people see us.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

On the Street… Jenna, New York

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

On the Street…. The Shape Of Modern Menswear

This gentleman captures what I find to be most interesting in menswear right now: quilted nylon, shorts over leggings, full volume outerwear, layering and dark yet rich color palettes.

 

This look scares me but inspires me, which is the best you can ask for in a look. I’ve gone back to this picture several times trying to figure out which elements would work best for me, and the answer that keeps coming up is: basically all of them.

I don’t know if I’m brave enough to wear shorts over tights in a ‘day wear’ setting, though I already do when I’m exercising…so maybe this picture will make me re-examine what I wear to the gym.

 

Today’s photograph and the photograph from yesterday will, I think, be the two images this season that will have the most long-lasting influence over (at least) my style for the next year or so.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Style Profile…. Sam Lambert

What led to your design career ? 

 

I never thought I would work in fashion. I took my first job as a carpenter’s assistant in Portugal. I was into electronics and moved to Spain to study; I loved fixing radios and things like that.

 

My father was a tailor, so I had my first bespoke suit at the age of 5 like most African kids did; this was Sunday attire. He would ask me to thread a needle in the machine, pass him scissors and chalk or hold fabric, but all I wanted to do was play futbal!

 

How did this lead to design?

 

I fell in love with vintage pieces and altered them to fit me. I bought a pattern cutting book, created a few collections and opened my own shop in Sweden called Solo y Unico (spanish for One and only) that I ran for 5 years.  Then I went to Savile Row and learned all the rules I had been breaking.

I’m currently the Head of Design for Spencer Hart, but aside from this I consider my primary project to be Art Comes First, I’m one-half of the creative team.

 

Was it difficult to gain the trust of those old school tailors?

 

Savile Row is like a secret society; they’re very proud of their tradition and old mindset– just like my old folks back home. I have a lot of respect for the history of tailoring. It takes time for traditional men to understand what’s going on in our young and disturbed minds. My old boss Ozwald Boateng was the peacock of Savile Row. When I joined the brand I added color and a slight design twist to their classic fabrics; the fabric was familiar to them, the twist was not. You have to learn the rules so you can learn how to break them.

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Tuesday, March 13, 2012

On the Street…..21st Street, New York

It’s great to be back in New York!

Fashion month is fun, but it’s so demanding that it’s hard to really analyze and understand what you’re seeing, because you’re seeing so much so fast. The next several weeks will be really fun on the blog because we will be able to have a deeper discussion about what’s happening on the streets of New York, Paris, London and Milan.

Monday, March 12, 2012

On the Street…15th Street, New York

Monday, March 12, 2012

On the Street…. 15th Street, New York

Monday, March 12, 2012

The Reading List….Marianne Breslauer: Photographs

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Monday, March 12, 2012

On the Street…. Piazza Castello, Milan