Do your homework…the pick-stitching is done by hand to achieve this effect and these jackets/suits are made to look creased and wrinkled which might upset those that like the sharp and neat look,but it’s essential in getting that relaxed look….sartorial quirks…sprezzatura baby!
Forgive me, but the use of the term “sprezzatura” out of context is starting to get on my nerves: this man is neither disheveled on purpose, nor did he sleep in his clothes by design. I don’t think he is anywhere near what Castiglione had in mind when he wrote “Il Cortegiano”. To me, there was no “master plan” behind this look: his suit simply needed a press and he couldn’t find a dry-cleaner in time. Sometimes the rush to get to work on time in the morning is such that it’s a miracle a person is able to get dressed period!
As in “Keep Cool and Carry On”, perhaps: no one is ultimately affected by a wrinkled suit, there are decidedly much worse things in life.
But the nonchalance described by Castiglione is more of a natural attitude that one learns to grow into, rather than a pose that is dissected, studied and then artificially portrayed for others.
I simply suggest that this man purchase a travel iron: it might come in handy!
Phil…you’re so right…way too many artificial fops around,captured in their most modern dandyish clothes and held together by pins…add a dash of fashion snobbism…and what do you have…a most boring individual…there are few true chaps with great style and loads of sprezzatura…once in a while,they pass us by…here on the sartorialist or in real life!
Please get in touch with my tailor Carmelo and my dry cleaner Ondina! Thanks @RJH de la Haye
Nice look. Have done similar many times. Also, can’t help wondering if there’s a code on Sart’s photos that I’m missing: we have no idea what time of day these wonderful images Sart gives us are shot; nor do we know what our unsuspecting subjects (in most cases) do for a living, or what their day entailed. Thank Heaven all are not walking around camera ready, perfectly groomed and pressed. These are “street shots”, and not runway presentations. I’m good with the errant wrinkle and rumple. Catch me at the end of my day and I’d present the same way. Cheers to the Real People. G’nite, M’Lovelies.
I guess this looks creased on purpose not only because of the stitching but also because of the fabric and the lining. Given the fabric, to me this is a spring/summer look. I like the high collar, this is a gorgeous man. But… creased jackets (save for in linen suits) would make me feel uncomfortable and sloppy. He is not, you can tell, but still…
Sprezzatura? No. What we have here is simply an overcoat tossed over a dress shirt and tie. The handkerchief for a square indicates this man is absent the suitcoat stained from spillage. The chill in the air required the hasty wardrobe alternative.