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January 28, 2006 at 10:56 pm
I like the pop collar. I’d wear that.
January 29, 2006 at 9:21 am
In the bottom photo Michael pointed out that he took great care to fit the knits and vests to hit right at the waist.
And that perfectly illustrates the problem with OTR clothing. Those small details may work on Mr. Bastian or whoever the model is that he designed it for but are likely to miss by an inch or two in either direction on someone who buys it off of Bergdorf’s rack.
January 29, 2006 at 9:46 am
Are you getting a lot of your knits done on Savile Row these days ?
January 29, 2006 at 10:28 pm
HA! Nice come back. I see we are warming up the snappy repartee here. In all seriousness Mr. Anonymous makes a valid point. When you buy into a designer you buy into his or her idea of fit. In fact, in order to be successful a designer must advocate or propose an idea of fit and image that is in some way unique. If it doesn’t fit you then too bad for both of you.
I have a proclivity for Luciano Barbera RTW suits, where I wear a 40R. Paul Smith, a designer I admire greatly cuts with such waist suppression that I need a 44 in order to be able to button the middle button. Consequently he is not for me.
Fit in America is tricky. Given how homogenous the population of most European countries, the fit of many lines that originate there is quite consistent. When you consider the American melting pot it’s no surprise how many fit issues we have.
January 30, 2006 at 9:30 am
All a designer can try and do is be consistent with fit. They can’t be everything to everyone. I cannot wear Paul Smith suits because they don’t cut a 40short, at least in the NYC shop, so I’m left with only about 5,000 other companies to buy from.
Regarding my snappy repartee I hate to snap back but I hate more the snobbery of some Savile Row customers. If we all could afford custom for everything than that would be great but most people cannot, I would never look down on them for that. I have been very lucky to do just fine without a closet full of custom suits. I was lucky enough to get a few Valentino MTM cashmere jackets when I worked there and they look great – just ask my butler or my chamber maid or my driver, no…not my driver – he drinks.
January 30, 2006 at 8:21 pm
In all honesty, I have never had anything made bespoke. Some MTM shirts are the closest I have come. Obviously, if I could afford it I would. However, if one can afford to pay list price for Mr. Bastian’s goods at Bergdorf, buying bespoke is not likely to be much of a stretch.
My comments are not meant to be an attack on Mr. Bastian at all. I think the clothing looks marvelous. I am just lamenting the broader problem of fit in the OTR clothing world.
February 1, 2006 at 2:31 pm
You guys crack me up.
Barbera vs. Smith: what happened to DROP? Look? Target?
Barbera = old, classicSmith = young, fashion
Just because ‘classic’ looks are in, you can’t lump them together.
Plus, should we say ‘designers’ or ‘stylists’? (some even creative directors)
Does Mr Bastian have the formal training to cut patterns, modify or “design”?
So why do you expect all this thought behind universal fit? He likes the way it looks and thats the end of that!
Besides, he probably copied it from others (sorry, inspired..) likes everyone else does. As you all pretty much pointed out.
Not to mentioned the small likelyhood of [I'm gonna say it] private labelling from another’s pool…
You either by into the perception or you don’t!
Come on, look at the infamous Prada nylon bag!!!! What are we talking in cost to make?? How many sold?! At how much?!
What’s sad is that the market’s turned upside down and luxury get’s inspired by main stream (i.e. all your examples: H&M, A&F, RL, Tommy, and who knows Gap, Banana, and so on..)
That’s why the ratio is1 BG : 300,000,000 People
February 1, 2006 at 7:11 pm
Previous postsorry, i don’t really understand the point your making?
I don’t think luxury is inspired by mainstream I think it is inspired by real life- as in peacoats, chunky knits, and how high end and low end are mixed together – like in real life.
February 2, 2006 at 4:38 pm
“While Michael was doing previews in Europe a reporter ask him if he had Walt Whitman’s phone number because she would like to call him for a comment on the scarf.”
No, but I do have his fax number — the witty reply delivered in Three Weddings and a Funeral to a question from a gauche American whether one of the characters actually knew Oscar Wilde. Could’ve been used there.
March 20, 2013 at 7:56 am
The Neapolitan sleevecap is called: “Manica a mappina” in English “rag sleeve” and it is hand made. Also the suits have this kind of shoulder and more it’s like that and more the suit is beautiful.
I love it