Loved the Jil show – i think Raf has been an excellent choice there. The collection had the hallmarks of what made Jil Jil – Clean lines, beautiful details, serious attention to fabrication whilts making it something new – Very well done in my opinion
oh and your pic from the show is stunning – cant wait to see more – much better than the ones on style.com from the show you have a much more intersting angle and really show how the clothes live
By the way, your photos are getting really good. Much different than the S/S 06 collections-they are more intimate-the Editors have embraced you…and it shows.
sorry for my english, I just wanted to say hi from Paris ! I just love your snapshots, they have this flavor of originality that we don’t get to see very often in our streets – girls love fashion but it’s basically an army of clones that we have here.
I have a stupid question though (sorry…) : after admiring so many of your photos, I’m starting to wonder if it is fashionable to have your feet turned towards the inside like a 4 year-old… ?
that shot from the Jil show is fabulous. Especially love the shoes, they kind of remind me of this season’s Vuitton D’Orsay pumps. they’re not for everybody but thank God for that. every now and then it’s great to see a complicated shoe for those shoe fetishists in all of us. saw heels like these from my recent trade show in Milan but passed on it. It’s a good thing because it’s already so done. especially after everybody sees this photo from your blog. :-)
love the first woman’s antique metallic big bag. It’s a nice relief from an otherwise basic outfit of black and white. we did antique metallic this fall as well for bags and shoes and our customers are loving them. they’re not as in your face gold or silver and they wear beautifully, like you’ve had them for years. plus I love anything that has a slight patina to it.
that shot from the Jil show is fabulous. Especially love the shoes, they kind of remind me of this season’s Vuitton D’Orsay pumps. they’re not for everybody but thank God for that. every now and then it’s great to see a complicated shoe for those shoe fetishists in all of us. saw heels like these from my recent trade show in Milan but passed on it. It’s a good thing because it’s already so done. especially after everybody sees this photo from your blog. :-)
It’s all about the triangles: the shoes are a triangle, the dress is a triangle, the body is a triangle at this angle. The shoes are strange and wonderful and do something really strange – the upper part of the photo with the dress and the rest of the model’s body is floating and smooth and serene and the bar across the bottom of the shoes ‘grounds’ everything. Parallel and grounded and floating triangles…..
Yeah, you did something special with that last photo.
I thought it was beautiful. Very clean, very elegant and very classy. The colours were wonderful, but more than that, it was the way Raf placed the colours and complemented them with dark hues that really brought something intelligent to the collection. This is minimalism at its most relevant. Very Jil, but also very Donna Karan (from the early 1990s) and Calvin Klein (from the late 1990s), updated to the present day. I also liked the fact that he did something very different from everyone else. This is one of the few collections in Milan that didn’t seem to reference Prada or Marni at all, so, for that alone, it stands apart, I think.
In response to “ge” – I wonder if the toes are turned in from shyness. It doesn’t seem to be a fashion trend but more about unplanned attention from a fabulous photographer – check out the confident footwork of the Comme de Garcon ladies!
I’ve never really thought about Jil Sander because it always seemed kind of basic but the ethereal picture is causing me to take a closer look. The drape of the blue dress and the shoes are gorgeous. The women attending the show (here and on your style.com site) are, to borrow from anonymous #1, “bangin”.
The sidewalks of the Via Montenapoleone were so crowded with handsome-looking Italians that it encouraged a kind of theater, and later Scott Schuman, creator of the Sartorialist blog, reported that he had seen the photographer Mario Testino striding down the center of the street. You can catch Mr. Schuman’s video of Mr. Testino soon on Style.com.
Mr. Schuman, who was wearing the collar of his blue oxford-cloth shirt unbuttoned like an Italian, was standing outside the Alberta Ferretti show in the public gardens when Emmanuelle Alt, the fashion director of French Vogue, arrived…
The first is fantastic. I love this dress, I think it’s ok for work or go out to take a drink. The third it’s fantastic. I really love this dresses, and the colour is … Wonderful ( The blue is one of my favourite colours ).
But the second … I don’t know. Simply don’t like me.
Your photo of the Jil Sander blue dress is exquisite. The dress itself, her hair, posture, stride, bare skin and killer shoes are perfection. Sartorialist, You must get a rush when you first see your shot. I certainly do!
The boldness of the color in contrast to the rather rational structure is just a very relaxed and elegant. No cutsy excess here, all very measured in favor of function: very German design.
your jil sander runway shot is gorgeous. as to the show itself? i am not a fashion professional so maybe my eye simply isn’t as sharp as that of one who is, but was it really that different from what has come before from calviin klein, armani, and others? i thought that the clothes were all wearable (with the exception of the tapered pants — please, no!) and that the sheaths were actually quite lovely, and of course the use of color was new, but i swear i’ve already worn this stuff and actually have at least one of those dresses still hanging in my closet, but with a calvin klein label on it. maybe you had to be there or, as i said, possess a trained eye to see the subtle details that make this the new and improved version of a terribly familiar look, but i much preferred the prada show.
On the turned-in toes, I’m with Kelli in thinking it’s shyness, maybe unconscious shyness. Especially when I picture the Sartorialist—whom I imagine as a very well-dressed man wearing a radiant smile because he is in his element—I think it must be a bit like having a celebrity ask to take your picture. I can imagine that people respond in different ways. Maybe some are not as comfortable in their skins (or their clothes) as others. To me, these details are part of the fun of looking at the photos.
P.S. I thought the Jil Sander show was clean and bright. I can’t imagine wearing my shirt buttoned up so high, but I loved the colors and coats and tiny collars. I would rather see Jil’s own collection, but R.S. is working in similar territory, thank goodness.
I love the ladies in black dresses -but I really have a problem with ladies standing with pigeon toes. Girls I knew in high school copped that pose and it bugged me then too. I’m sure I could come up with a psychological explanation for it, but I simply find it annoying and affected. It makes me think the woman is lacking confidence which makes me sad. These are people who are being singled-out for their taste and beauty, and who are often well-known and respected in their industry. I think that if these women were standing straighter and confidently their beauty would be magnified. I would see them and not their posturing.
i loved the jil sander show! i want to wear everything raf sent out! the colors were great, the high buttoned collars were great, it was all just fantastic!
when in contrast to American fashion (Calvin Klein or other sport style stuff), Jil Sander (Raf Simons) is very austhere, less inclusive. I really liked the contrast of masculine and femenine in the collection, but the whole style is definetly “safe”. Does not take more adventures than the color.
loved the jil sander show. the attention to detail absolutely set it apart. and the color choices, tho bright, just looked so much more right for summer as compared to those in the prada show. and refreshing as well. as for ptsd’s question above – “was it really that different from what has come before from calviin klein, armani, and others?” – i think that for this show, it *is* in the details. there is just something so subtle and elegant about the shapes and ideas that raf simons is tweaking. he’s the perfect designer to take over the jil sander name.
The last photo is absolutely stunning. I hope we can see more of that set. I also think the Jil Sander show was quite amazing and even maturer in its new-found youthfulness. Block colors, clean lines and vivid tones make up a great trinity here.
thank you to maria, “a”, and all those who have responded so thoughtfully to my public ruminations on the jil sander show. i do see that it is in the honing and refining, the whittling away, and actually a sense that there is a bit of a tightrope being walked quite nimbly (nimbly? deftly?) that defines this collection, and most of the time that is exactly the kind of thing that i find exciting in a designer’s work. perhaps at another time in history i might have embraced these clothes with great enthusiasm, and been able to appreciate them without reservation. i think that on some gut level i crave the flamboyance and slightly giddy, damn the torpedoes quality of miuccia’s recent work — it is such a serious time i must be longing for escape…or optimism…or the appearance of optimism. given the choice right now between two colorful, wearable collections, i must just be in the mood to let my heart lead instead of my head. another illustration of this “something’s coming” spell i am under is that i am firmly convinced that this year the yankees are going to win the world series despite their enormous payroll.
the second woman is Jessica Kerwin who has written for Fairchild (W and WWD) for many years. very talented and sweet person. i like her dress. i do prefer it when she had longer hair.
i’m not too crazy about the jil sander shoes with the bar on the bottom. it would seem uncomfortable with that high of an arch that there is no flexibility with the heel. and judging from the style.com photos many of the model’s toes were spilling out in the front. too low of a vamp on the side.
raf is doing a great job so far considering it’s only his second runway presentation for jil women’s. i hope someday he can bring a lot more of the intricate seaming and draping that she also did. as someone who wears both men’s and women’s pieces from when jil was designing i can say his pants tailoring fit like a glove for the men’s and women’s collections. the coats need a little bit more work for both. but i am positive that he will get there.
Thanks everyone for the various explanations ! I’ve seen so many very fashionable girls sitting in the subway with that pose, I was starting to wonder if that was part of the look…
Happy I’ve learned some new words like the famous pidgeon toes pose ;)
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 3:02 am
that sweater vest dress up top is bangin! so chic for work. She’s also rockin’ her Carine pidgeon toed demure hotness pose.
I’m kinda over big ugly purses though…they weigh things down too much…essp. as hers isn’t full she prob. doesn’t need it so why carry it.
MYRIADE
September 29, 2006 at 3:04 am
The second womans dress is awesome – I like her haircut, bag – the total look..
Per Aage/Myriade
anonymous jones
September 29, 2006 at 3:05 am
Hi! Love the pigeon toes on the second shot!
ben
September 29, 2006 at 3:54 am
Loved the Jil show – i think Raf has been an excellent choice there. The collection had the hallmarks of what made Jil Jil – Clean lines, beautiful details, serious attention to fabrication whilts making it something new – Very well done in my opinion
ben
September 29, 2006 at 3:56 am
oh and your pic from the show is stunning – cant wait to see more – much better than the ones on style.com from the show you have a much more intersting angle and really show how the clothes live
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 4:20 am
Those are some crazy shoes at Jil Sander.
By the way, your photos are getting really good. Much different than the S/S 06 collections-they are more intimate-the Editors have embraced you…and it shows.
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 4:22 am
Hi Sart,
Great shot! Your new camera and your shape eye are good partners.
I often think about the fact, that many models (in my oppinion) are much too thin, not only regarding Jil Sander.
What do you guys think?
Don’t you think it’s time for more curves…
A sart fan
Mischa
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 5:56 am
The shot from the runway is *beautiful*, but the shoes Raf has on that girl are directly from this year’s F/W Louis Vuitton collection…
gé
September 29, 2006 at 7:58 am
sorry for my english, I just wanted to say hi from Paris !
I just love your snapshots, they have this flavor of originality that we don’t get to see very often in our streets – girls love fashion but it’s basically an army of clones that we have here.
I have a stupid question though (sorry…) : after admiring so many of your photos, I’m starting to wonder if it is fashionable to have your feet turned towards the inside like a 4 year-old… ?
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 8:04 am
I love the girl in the first picture. so cute.
Chad Moore
September 29, 2006 at 9:16 am
I really liked the collection and I also love this photo!
-Chad
Tamberk
September 29, 2006 at 9:34 am
I liked the men’s version better.
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 10:19 am
in my opinion, the first photo is the best, the rest also but…
Rafe
September 29, 2006 at 10:33 am
that shot from the Jil show is fabulous. Especially love the shoes, they kind of remind me of this season’s Vuitton D’Orsay pumps. they’re not for everybody but thank God for that. every now and then it’s great to see a complicated shoe for those shoe fetishists in all of us. saw heels like these from my recent trade show in Milan but passed on it. It’s a good thing because it’s already so done. especially after everybody sees this photo from your blog. :-)
Rafe
September 29, 2006 at 10:36 am
love the first woman’s antique metallic big bag. It’s a nice relief from an otherwise basic outfit of black and white. we did antique metallic this fall as well for bags and shoes and our customers are loving them. they’re not as in your face gold or silver and they wear beautifully, like you’ve had them for years. plus I love anything that has a slight patina to it.
Rafe
September 29, 2006 at 10:37 am
that shot from the Jil show is fabulous. Especially love the shoes, they kind of remind me of this season’s Vuitton D’Orsay pumps. they’re not for everybody but thank God for that. every now and then it’s great to see a complicated shoe for those shoe fetishists in all of us. saw heels like these from my recent trade show in Milan but passed on it. It’s a good thing because it’s already so done. especially after everybody sees this photo from your blog. :-)
MD
September 29, 2006 at 11:03 am
The last photo:
It’s all about the triangles: the shoes are a triangle, the dress is a triangle, the body is a triangle at this angle. The shoes are strange and wonderful and do something really strange – the upper part of the photo with the dress and the rest of the model’s body is floating and smooth and serene and the bar across the bottom of the shoes ‘grounds’ everything. Parallel and grounded and floating triangles…..
Yeah, you did something special with that last photo.
ken
September 29, 2006 at 11:10 am
I thought it was beautiful. Very clean, very elegant and very classy. The colours were wonderful, but more than that, it was the way Raf placed the colours and complemented them with dark hues that really brought something intelligent to the collection. This is minimalism at its most relevant. Very Jil, but also very Donna Karan (from the early 1990s) and Calvin Klein (from the late 1990s), updated to the present day. I also liked the fact that he did something very different from everyone else. This is one of the few collections in Milan that didn’t seem to reference Prada or Marni at all, so, for that alone, it stands apart, I think.
herringbonekid
September 29, 2006 at 11:21 am
what’s with the floppy body language on the first two ?
jkrnyc
September 29, 2006 at 11:27 am
Pic from the show is a-mazing. Wow.
Raf is certainly channeling Jil pretty well, I think.
I moonlight as a dresser for the New York shows, and the girls are waaaay too thin. Doesn’t look good, imho.
Phoebe
September 29, 2006 at 11:30 am
the photo runway photo is amazing. i love it.
Kelli
September 29, 2006 at 11:38 am
In response to “ge” – I wonder if the toes are turned in from shyness. It doesn’t seem to be a fashion trend but more about unplanned attention from a fabulous photographer – check out the confident footwork of the Comme de Garcon ladies!
I’ve never really thought about Jil Sander because it always seemed kind of basic but the ethereal picture is causing me to take a closer look. The drape of the blue dress and the shoes are gorgeous. The women attending the show (here and on your style.com site) are, to borrow from anonymous #1, “bangin”.
comtedamour
September 29, 2006 at 11:54 am
with regard to the pigeon toe issue, it seems the side of the body with the bag gets turned in. voila.
makiii
September 29, 2006 at 11:55 am
A A A H !
you must post
more of your pics from the
Jil Sander show!
Thebodytalk
September 29, 2006 at 11:59 am
I love that color. I need that shoes. The picture is awesome.
atticus_finch
September 29, 2006 at 12:00 pm
loving the outfit in the middle picture…the top and shoes are wonderful.
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 12:43 pm
can I just say, your pics on style.com are gor-ge-o-us! Magnificent! Truly, pleasure for eyes! Thank you :)
F.A.
September 29, 2006 at 1:23 pm
cathy horyn LOVES you!
from today’s times:
The sidewalks of the Via Montenapoleone were so crowded with handsome-looking Italians that it encouraged a kind of theater, and later Scott Schuman, creator of the Sartorialist blog, reported that he had seen the photographer Mario Testino striding down the center of the street. You can catch Mr. Schuman’s video of Mr. Testino soon on Style.com.
Mr. Schuman, who was wearing the collar of his blue oxford-cloth shirt unbuttoned like an Italian, was standing outside the Alberta Ferretti show in the public gardens when Emmanuelle Alt, the fashion director of French Vogue, arrived…
What did you do to her?!?!?!
cervera
September 29, 2006 at 2:00 pm
The first is fantastic. I love this dress, I think it’s ok for work or go out to take a drink.
The third it’s fantastic. I really love this dresses, and the colour is … Wonderful ( The blue is one of my favourite colours ).
But the second … I don’t know. Simply don’t like me.
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 3:10 pm
beautiful photos! I love the jil sander especially.
what kind of shoes is the girl wearing in the second photo – anyone? I would love to find a pair like that
The-E-Babes
September 29, 2006 at 3:24 pm
Your photo of the Jil Sander blue dress is exquisite. The dress itself, her hair, posture, stride, bare skin and killer shoes are perfection. Sartorialist, You must get a rush when you first see your shot. I certainly do!
Maria
September 29, 2006 at 3:40 pm
About JIL SANDER:
What a nice splurge of color!
The boldness of the color in contrast to the rather rational structure is just a very relaxed and elegant. No cutsy excess here, all very measured in favor of function: very German design.
She is one of the best in my opinion.
positively the same dame
September 29, 2006 at 4:30 pm
your jil sander runway shot is gorgeous. as to the show itself? i am not a fashion professional so maybe my eye simply isn’t as sharp as that of one who is, but was it really that different from what has come before from calviin klein, armani, and others? i thought that the clothes were all wearable (with the exception of the tapered pants — please, no!) and that the sheaths were actually quite lovely, and of course the use of color was new, but i swear i’ve already worn this stuff and actually have at least one of those dresses still hanging in my closet, but with a calvin klein label on it. maybe you had to be there or, as i said, possess a trained eye to see the subtle details that make this the new and improved version of a terribly familiar look, but i much preferred the prada show.
EMNH
September 29, 2006 at 6:40 pm
Yay…pidgeon toes are back.
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 7:21 pm
On the turned-in toes, I’m with Kelli in thinking it’s shyness, maybe unconscious shyness. Especially when I picture the Sartorialist—whom I imagine as a very well-dressed man wearing a radiant smile because he is in his element—I think it must be a bit like having a celebrity ask to take your picture. I can imagine that people respond in different ways. Maybe some are not as comfortable in their skins (or their clothes) as others. To me, these details are part of the fun of looking at the photos.
P.S. I thought the Jil Sander show was clean and bright. I can’t imagine wearing my shirt buttoned up so high, but I loved the colors and coats and tiny collars. I would rather see Jil’s own collection, but R.S. is working in similar territory, thank goodness.
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 7:30 pm
Most designer could do with much tighter editing for the shows. So many designers’ ideas overlap each other.
Yet it refreshing to see Prada’s new brilliant collection. Effortlessly chic and most of all….wearable.
Iris Nobile
September 29, 2006 at 7:41 pm
I love the ladies in black dresses -but I really have a problem with ladies standing with pigeon toes. Girls I knew in high school copped that pose and it bugged me then too. I’m sure I could come up with a psychological explanation for it, but I simply find it annoying and affected. It makes me think the woman is lacking confidence which makes me sad. These are people who are being singled-out for their taste and beauty, and who are often well-known and respected in their industry. I think that if these women were standing straighter and confidently their beauty would be magnified. I would see them and not their posturing.
Jessica
September 29, 2006 at 9:06 pm
love the shoes on the last girl! awesome!
Anonymous
September 29, 2006 at 9:19 pm
Your photos are luminous.
Carissa
September 29, 2006 at 10:17 pm
The shoes (the last pic) are so interesting, I love them.
Anonymous
September 30, 2006 at 12:32 am
i loved the jil sander show! i want to wear everything raf sent out! the colors were great, the high buttoned collars were great, it was all just fantastic!
Maria
September 30, 2006 at 12:34 am
when in contrast to American fashion (Calvin Klein or other sport style stuff), Jil Sander (Raf Simons) is very austhere, less inclusive. I really liked the contrast of masculine and femenine in the collection, but the whole style is definetly “safe”. Does not take more adventures than the color.
eurobrat
September 30, 2006 at 12:36 am
Oh wow. That last image is extraordinary.
a.
September 30, 2006 at 3:33 am
loved the jil sander show. the attention to detail absolutely set it apart. and the color choices, tho bright, just looked so much more right for summer as compared to those in the prada show. and refreshing as well. as for ptsd’s question above – “was it really that different from what has come before from calviin klein, armani, and others?” – i think that for this show, it *is* in the details. there is just something so subtle and elegant about the shapes and ideas that raf simons is tweaking. he’s the perfect designer to take over the jil sander name.
concupiscence
September 30, 2006 at 4:25 am
The last photo is absolutely stunning. I hope we can see more of that set. I also think the Jil Sander show was quite amazing and even maturer in its new-found youthfulness. Block colors, clean lines and vivid tones make up a great trinity here.
Anonymous
September 30, 2006 at 7:16 am
i agree with rafe. this bag from first photo is so fabulous!!!
positively the same dame
September 30, 2006 at 5:49 pm
thank you to maria, “a”, and all those who have responded so thoughtfully to my public ruminations on the jil sander show. i do see that it is in the honing and refining, the whittling away, and actually a sense that there is a bit of a tightrope being walked quite nimbly (nimbly? deftly?) that defines this collection, and most of the time that is exactly the kind of thing that i find exciting in a designer’s work. perhaps at another time in history i might have embraced these clothes with great enthusiasm, and been able to appreciate them without reservation. i think that on some gut level i crave the flamboyance and slightly giddy, damn the torpedoes quality of miuccia’s recent work — it is such a serious time i must be longing for escape…or optimism…or the appearance of optimism. given the choice right now between two colorful, wearable collections, i must just be in the mood to let my heart lead instead of my head. another illustration of this “something’s coming” spell i am under is that i am firmly convinced that this year the yankees are going to win the world series despite their enormous payroll.
Anonymous
September 30, 2006 at 10:09 pm
I love the shoes!
Anonymous
October 1, 2006 at 5:56 am
just want you to know that you have a fan in manila, philippines.
Anonymous
October 1, 2006 at 12:48 pm
i like the haircolor and cut on the first woman.
the second woman is Jessica Kerwin who has written for Fairchild (W and WWD) for many years. very talented and sweet person. i like her dress. i do prefer it when she had longer hair.
i’m not too crazy about the jil sander shoes with the bar on the bottom. it would seem uncomfortable with that high of an arch that there is no flexibility with the heel. and judging from the style.com photos many of the model’s toes were spilling out in the front. too low of a vamp on the side.
raf is doing a great job so far considering it’s only his second runway presentation for jil women’s. i hope someday he can bring a lot more of the intricate seaming and draping that she also did. as someone who wears both men’s and women’s pieces from when jil was designing i can say his pants tailoring fit like a glove for the men’s and women’s collections. the coats need a little bit more work for both. but i am positive that he will get there.
gé
October 1, 2006 at 7:27 pm
Thanks everyone for the various explanations !
I’ve seen so many very fashionable girls sitting in the subway with that pose, I was starting to wonder if that was part of the look…
Happy I’ve learned some new words like the famous pidgeon toes pose ;)
Anonymous
March 9, 2009 at 10:31 am
I am simply in love with those shoes!