The Sartorialist

Our eyes play tricks on us.

This young lady looks almost provocative with her tailored jacket and long, summer legs. However, under that jacket, she was wearing the same jean shorts that all the other young ladies are wearing this time of year. From the front she would seem unremarkable, but from the back it’s a whole different story.

I think if I ever did a men’s style guide, I would have to call it “What Would Beppe Do?”

I was more than a little surprised during my last trip to Italy to see espresso “to go”.

The French fell to Starbucks a few years ago and they have never looked back. I have always heard the excuse that Italian coffee culture is so strong that they would never offer coffee “to go” but these new shops are the beginning of the end for that dream.

The flip side of the debate is that coffee is different from espresso, just like linguine is different from spaghetti. I would think the two could coexist.

UPDATE- already in the comments, people are commenting that one should sit and casually enjoy a coffee. However, in Italy, no one sits to have an espresso, they stand at the bar. I think people are confusing the French coffee experience with the reality of Italian coffee culture.

This is a great little cafe down the street from the hotel we stay at in Milan.

They are trying to offer a slice of American coffee culture to Italians but without serving actual American coffee. It’s a fun idea but the tiny espresso cups only last about one city block before it’s empty.

So, how do we feel about Starbucks in Italy?

If you are ever in Italy during the Summer you’ve got to try the Augustus Hotel in Forte di Marmi. As beautiful as this place looks, it smells even better.

I love couples that dresses in the same spirit. It seems to show a bond or a personal secret they have together.

Finally, a belted cardigan that is cozy but still slim and chic.

I’ve talked alot about the proper amount of shirtcuff to show with a suit.

Well, I think there’s a similar proportion to consider with the relation of a shirtcuff to a knit.

I’m using the above image as a good standard.

ps. note how much better this gentleman looks with a fitted knit. Oversized knits aren’t hiding anything.

Summer in New York is full of young women in long print dresses. Too often though the dresses are bland, overly basic and usually carrying a cheap looking print. Sometimes they seem like the modern version of the thoughtless housedress.

I think it is so fresh to see a long dress done with a little flair. The fullness of this young lady’s dress doesn’t dwarf her size but does create a beautifully dramatic silhouette when she walks.

Polo with a suit?

That’s tricky.

Too often it comes off as Master Champ. I think the real key is to wear polo as sleek as the suit.

The next critical question would then be, collar in or out?

Rugged and refined, think Steve McQueen or Gene Kelly.

While I was working on this image Garance mentioned that it was the perfect way to end the week that started with the young Mennonite girl from last Monday’s post.

What makes Italians looks so slim?

What helps them look so refined when casually dressed?

The back dart on their shirts is a big factor.

ps. also note how meticulously the sleeves are rolled-up in both examples

I love the fit and proportion of the suit but ,for me, this shot is really about the super sophisticated tie-to-suit combination.