Archives

Friday, August 31, 2007

Long Hair With Suits?



I would love to hear what women think about long hair with suits and contrast that with what the men think about the same issue.

I wore long hair with suits until about thirty but after that does it get a bit tricky?

I don’t think I will grow my hair long again until it is mostly to all white.

Friday, August 31, 2007

On The Street……..That Fan, Florence


I see this gentleman often at Pitti and he is always beautifully dressed.

I love the sleeve length, pant length and overall fit of the jacket. The slimness of the jacket and pants actually creates a lengthening effect. I would maybe try a slightly more narrow tie and smaller collar on the shirt but that is personal choice.

Notice the upper sleeve, over biceps, section of his jacket – I always try to get that sleeve section a slight bit more narrow. It really finishes off the overall long, slimming effect of a slim cut suit. Look at Astaire, his sleeves in that section are always very narrow. It is a very small detail but one that always stands out to me when I watch Astaire movies.

To the opposite effect, if you are narrow this is a good spot to create a wider visual.

Friday, August 31, 2007

On The Street………Sodermalm, Stockholm

Friday, August 31, 2007

On The Street……..Olof., Stockholm

Thursday, August 30, 2007

On The Street………Paris, France

Thursday, August 30, 2007

On The Street………Vintage Dress, Stockholm

Thursday, August 30, 2007

On The Street………Those Shoes, Florence

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

On The Street………Martin, NYC

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

On The Street………Matte, Flat & Shiny, Stockholm

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

After One Year In New York – Kelly

Spring 2006

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Save For Next Summer…..Brown & White


While in Florence last time, I saw several guys looking great with the brown/white color combo.
I’m torn though as to whether I should try this look next summer or wait till my hair turns their shade of silvery white (which ,come to think of it, might also be next summer!)

Monday, August 27, 2007

On The Street………Mid-Afternoon Sparkle, NYC

Monday, August 27, 2007

On The Street………Bold Check, Paris

Monday, August 27, 2007

September GQ from Paris

Monday, August 27, 2007

Metalworks Plant, Milan







When I was in Milan for the Salone last April I stumbled across this metalworks plant.

It seemed like everywhere I turned was another fantastic creation. They must make these for store displays and the stage.

I really loved the little newspaper hat that the sweeper had made for himself – creative is as creative does.

Sunday, August 26, 2007

European Shorts, Milan & Paris

Friday, August 24, 2007

Guess Who I Ran Into….Nacho

Today Style.com posted more photos from my weekend trip to the polo match in Bridgehampton.

Friday, August 24, 2007

At the Polo Grounds….Bridgehampton

Thursday, August 23, 2007

On The Street………Mad Plaider, Stockholm

Thursday, August 23, 2007

On The Street………One More Time, Stockholm

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

On The Street……….Good Hair, Good Style Bastard, Stockholm

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

on The Street………Urbane & Graffittied, Sodermalm, Stockholm

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

On The Street..Swedish Navy, Ostermalm Stockholm

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

On The Street……….Ostermalm, Stockholm

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

On The Street..Industrial Zip, Stockholm

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

On The Street..Another Successfully Shrunken Jacket, Stockholm

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

On The Street……Sequin Cardigan Homme, Sodermalm, Stockholm

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

On The Street…..Black, White & Green, Stockholm

Monday, August 20, 2007

On The Steps……Print Dress & Strappy Shoes, Stockholm

Monday, August 20, 2007

On The Street……Tied Tee, Sodermalm, Stockholm

Monday, August 20, 2007

On The Street……So Well Done, Ostermalm, Stockholm

Monday, August 20, 2007

On The Street……Sweet-ish, Sodermalm, Stockholm

Monday, August 20, 2007

On The Street……Fur Collar, Stockholm

Sunday, August 19, 2007

On The Street……Hi-Waisted Jeans, Sodermalm, Stockholm

Sunday, August 19, 2007

On The Street……Not Half Plaid, Sodermalm, Stockholm

Friday, August 17, 2007

on the Street….Graceful, Stockholm

Friday, August 17, 2007

On the Street…..More Great Hair, Stockholm


I think he looks like an old-time movie star on vaction

Thursday, August 16, 2007

On the Street…..Slussen Subway Stop, Stockholm

Thursday, August 16, 2007

On the Street…..Shirt as Skirt, Stockholm

This young lady is wearing her fathers shirt as a skirt.

She was very proud that she was able to do this with no additional stitches just folding and tucks.

This is why I come to Stockholm.

ps I usually like to shoot people in empty-ish spaces but the was really happy with her calm, stillness in the center of a bustling crowd.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

On the Street…..That Hair, Stockholm


Stockholm fashion is great but the variety of hairstyles and the quality of the cuts available here to everyday people really outshines Paris, New York, and Milan.

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

On the Street…..Pale Beauty, Stockholm

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

On the Street……Vintage Cardigan, Stockholm

Apparently he bought this vintage cardigan in Williamsburg……Go Brooklyn!

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

On the Street……Full & Rolled, Stockholm

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

On the Street…..Leather Dress, Stockholm

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

On the Street……Homme, Stockholm

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

On the Street……Femme, Stockholm!!

Monday, August 13, 2007

On The Street……Summer Bold, East Hampton

Monday, August 13, 2007

At The Polo Grounds….Long, Light & Lovely

Monday, August 13, 2007

On The Street……Print Dress, East Hampton

Friday, August 10, 2007

On The Street……42nd St., New York

I particularly like the rolled short-sleeves working back to the vest.

Friday, August 10, 2007

On The Street…….Morning on 14th St, New York

Friday, August 10, 2007

Wrapping Up Astaire vs Grant

Thanks to everyone who participated!

I love the passion everyone brought to the discussion.

Special thanks the Richard Torregrossa and G. Bruce Boyer for their contributions. I highly recommend both of their books.

Just to clarify Richard was being completely tongue-in-cheek, if you read it again I think it is pretty obvious (and he told he wanted to play a little devils advocate even before he wrote it)

It’s funny you guys mentioned Gene Kelly.
When I was in Paris last time I met Mr Assouline of Assouline Books and he said to me “I saw you walking on the the street today! I thought you looked like Gene Kelly!” (I guess I was dressed like an American in Paris)

If I was going to do an actress version of this exercise I would do Louise Brooks vs…..

Who would you compare/contrast Louise Brooks to?

She seems so unique to her time in many ways.

Thursday, August 9, 2007

On The Street…….Stop Motion, New York City



I love how she keeps the proportions but changes the color and pattern.

Thursday, August 9, 2007

On The Street…….Via Gesu, Milan

Thursday, August 9, 2007

Astaire vs. Grant By G. Bruce Boyer


Astaire vs. Grant

By

G. Bruce Boyer

Funnily enough, my guess would be that Astaire is more a model for most men than Cary Grant. Most men would of course say they?d like to look like Cary Grant. But that?s not really achievable for most of us, which brings me to Astaire. He did in fact create a model for those of us in need of some perfecting.

Unlike Cary Grant, who was tall, dark, and handsome, Fred Astaire had few of the attributes we associate with a romantic hero, on or off the screen. He was almost emaciatingly slight of build (with a 35? chest, and 29? waist on a 5?8? frame), balding, with pronounced ears and a reedy voice. The writer Graham Greene compared him to Mickey Mouse, and another contemporary critic thought his face looked like an inverted Bartlett pear.

But Astaire?s was the triumph of pure style. And more than symbolize an ideal of physical handsomeness and sophisticated charm, he came to embody the idea of the New Democratic Man of the Twentieth Century, the American Century. Simply put, Astaire had the talent to construct a new model for men based on the democratic ideal of the classless aristocrat. He was a hero whose weapon was style, and that style was a distinctive casualness.

Astaire and Grant are, in a sense, at opposite ends of the style spectrum when it comes to dress. Grant came more and more to simplify his approach, to de-accesorize and remove color and pattern from his wardrobe. He came to rely on pristine cut, with no exaggeration to achieve his effect: simple grey suits, white shirts with straight-point collars, silvery neckwear, black plain oxfords. It was a performance of deconstruction in which all the elements blended together in a seamless whole. Nothing was emphasized, everything faded into a consistently harmonized column meant to move the eye quickly to the real focal point: Grant?s incredibly handsome face.

For Astaire, it was something of the opposite: the blending of the formal and the casual, and the studied use of accessories are meant to draw attention, not to the face, but to the nature of the assemblage itself, and thus the personality behind it: the soft button-down shirt (often worn purposefully but unself-consciously with a more formal d-b suit), the repp-striped tie and tie bar set at a jaunty angle, paisley silk pocket square, the bright hosiery and suede shoes, the porkpie felt fedora, the easy-fitting tweed jackets, the gray flannels and scarf worn as a belt. All of this bespeaks a man who knows that style is the endeavor to adjust nature. The trick is to make that adjustment seem effortless. That was Astaire?s gift.

Around 1947, shortly after The Bachelor and the Bobby Soxer , Grant arrived at a sartorially monochromatic conclusion about his wardrobe. Although he would still occasionally don a tweed jacket (in Crisis and Monkey Business, for instance), more and more his outfit of choice was a business suit in a neutral shade of grey. Astaire, on the other hand, was fond of yellow cashmere sweater vests, bright blue socks, bold glen plaid tweed sports jackets, red silk handkerchiefs. His style was an idiosyncratic blend of Savile Row and Princeton circa 1938, the first Mid-Atlantic approach to dress. Even when he wore a formal suit, it was liable to be a chalk-striped d-b flannel in navy blue or dove gray. His style was light, comfortable, and nonchalant.

There is more a sense of studied nonchalance about Astaire. Grant looked elegant in white tie and tails, but Astaire looked elegant and comfortable. He wore them like they were pajamas and a tux as though it were a part of his everyday routine, rather than borrowed from some Prussian general. It wasn?t supposed to look perfect, it was supposed to look thrown together in a perfectly natural way. Of course, it wasn?t anything of the sort. It?s what Castiglione in The Book of the Courtier defined as ?sprezzatura?, a studied casualness that hides itself in purposeful eccentricity. Astaire knew perfectly well what he was about in his dress and his music. And speaking of music, critic and novelist Stanley Crouch once defined jazz as an intensified feeling of nonchalance. It?s a good way to sum up Astaire. The intensity comes from both a sense of perfection, and from a sheer love of clothes as a medium of expression, the way a writer loves wit and the medium of words, as the 18th Century poet Alexander Pope noted:

True wit is nature to advantage dressed,
What oft was thought, but ne?er so well expressed.

Astaire Style on Amazon.com

Thursday, August 9, 2007

UPDATE to The SartoriaList



Jefferson Hack
Barber: The Refinery, 60 Brook Street, London, W1K 5DU

Tailor: Mr Mandalia, 22 South Molton St, London, W1K 5RB

Dry Cleaner: White Rose Laundries, 16 Hinde St, London,
W1U 2BB

Shoes: Mister Cobbler, 168 Whitecross Street, London, EC1Y 8QN

Sarah of Colette

Hair Salon : Massato (21 rue Tournon, 6e) and for colors, Christophe Robin (Colorist 9 rue Guénégaud, 6e)

Tailor or alterations : Charvet (28 place VendĂ´me, 1er)

Dry cleaner : Teinturie Monceau, 50 rue Jouffroy d’Abbans, 17e

Nail Salon : Manucurist (42 pl du Marché St-Honoré, 1er) for the hands , and Sonia (coming home) for feet : +0675068695

Spa treatments : Payot (62 rue Pierre Charron, 8e), Joya (6 rue Renaissance, 8e) & Appartement 217 (217 rue Saint-Honoré, 1er).

These will have a permenent home on the SartoriaList by next week

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

On The Street…….Greenwich Village, New York City


This is what I always thought Greenwich Village would look like – quirky intellectuals sitting around playing chess all day.

You might recognize these two guys from one of my first posts back on Oct 30th 2005

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

The Real Secret of Cary Grant’s Style



The Real Secret of Cary Grant?s Style
By Richard Torregrossa

Cary Grant was 6?1? and 180 lbs, a tall and at times a muscular man, especially in the early part of his career when he was an acrobat tumbling across vaudeville stages or stilt walking for pin money in Coney Island, all of which required extraordinary physical skill.
These experiences gave him a superior edge over most other movie actors?athletic grace, a feature that has been overlooked by some fans, many critics, and every biographer.
When Cary Grant walked into a room it was taken for granted that ?men wanted to be him and women wanted to be with him? because he was handsome and impeccably dressed.
To be sure, this was a large part of his appeal; he looked so crisp you could practically smell his after shave lotion, but it was the way he moved that was really the key to Cary Grant?s style.
He performed comic stunts without losing one iota of style. In ?The Awful Truth? he falls backwards off a chair in full evening attire and in ?Holiday? he launches into a cartwheel, a back flip, and a forward roll with Katherine Hepburn standing on his shoulders?all in the clothes of his character, whether it was a bumpkin?s three-piece suit in ?Holiday? or full evening attire in ?The Awful Truth.?
He didn?t cheat like Fred Astaire who created all kinds of innovations in his legendary collaboration with his Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard or Kilgour, French & Stanbury to facilitate his incomparable movements on the dance floor.
Some of Astaire?s innovations were ridiculously pretentious like the time he tied a scarf instead of a belt around his pants, a substitution that was supposed to make his clothes less constricting. Cary Grant just wore clothes that fit.
Fred Astaire was a one-dimensional talent, a dandy dancer, a leggy technician with a lot of skill, and even more discipline. His girlishly lithe figure made it easier for him to defy gravity than a man of Grant?s more manly size.
You can see Astaire straining for precision and a kind of choreographed perfection. We appreciate his hard work, but with Grant he gives us a calming joy, lightly uplifts us, all without effort?or rather with an effort that appears effortless, the epitome of genuine and not arduous grace.
And Grant made better movies. Nothing Astaire did can compare to ?North by Northwest,? Notorious,? or ?To Catch a Thief.?
Astaire made corny musicals in which he danced brilliantly. Grant made iconic movies in which he acted brilliantly and at the same time created the gold standard for style.

?Richard Torregrossa is the author of Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style, Foreword by Giorgio Armani.
www.richardtorregrossa.com

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

On The Street…….Ludlow St., New York City

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

Fred Astaire vs Cary Grant




When I began really getting into fashion I easily fell for the cliche that Cary Grant was the most dashing, elegant, stylish and well-dressed man of the Old Hollywood generation.

Since we have so much more visual evidence to support Cary Grant’s Sartorialism ,than say Gianni Agnelli or the Duke of Windsor, I would guess most people would say he was THE most stylish man ever.

Recently ,however, my sartorial beliefs have been shaken to their very foundations.

I have been watching every Fred Astaire movie I can get my hands and I have to say that Mr. Astaire is easily the most stylish, most graceful, most inspiring, and most athletic man I have ever seen in a suit.

Fred Astaire had many more enduring style quirks ( tie as belt, slanted tie clip, slim cut sleeves on his suits, etc) but I can’t really think of any specific quirks for Cary Grant. Astaire was more like ,but pre-dated, Agnelli in that department.

The outfits that Fred Astaire wore in movies and in photos are consistently more complicated and interesting to me than Cary Grant’s. Cary was like the original minimalist – very sleek, very modern- but Fred’s outfits were a magical mix of pattern, texture, and color (ok, I am completely guessing on color because his best style movies were in black & white)

Cary Grant was a perfect hanger for his clothes but he made sure that his clothes did not overshadow is natural beauty.
Fred Astaire ,on the other hand, was more the “everyman” he really needed his clothes to work for him if he was going to compete as a “leading man” in Hollywood against and alongside guys like Randolph Scott and Cary Grant. I could totally imagine a guy in the Thirties taking a photo of Astaire into his local store haberdasher and saying “I want to look like this guy” and not being laughed out of the shop. With Cary Grant, it would like me taking in a picture of Brad Pitt to Saks and the sales guy telling me no amount of money is going to get me to Pitt-level but I might hit a Rick Moranis high. That is why Astaire is so inspiring.

Finally, Astaire was soooo physical in his clothes and yet always, always looked perfect. I know….I know…Cary Grant was an acrobat and he was also very physical in some of his movies but to compare the athleticism of the two is like comparing the beauty of Valerie Bertinelli to Erin Moran (ok, that’s too close, Valerie Bertinelli to Schneider). Just watch the Astaire movie “Carefree” in which he dances while actually hitting golf balls all while dressed in perfect 30′s golf attire I could rest my case on that scene alone but we know Astaire has four scenes like that for ever Grant North by Northwest chase scene.

Secondly Finally, Astaire has ,what I consider, the ultimate Sartorialist moment of throw-away casual cool. In “Flying Down To Rio” Fred and Ginger are about to attempt their version of the Latin dance “The Carioca”. Just as Fred is about to embrace Ginger he pushes up his left shirt and jacket sleeve the you or i would push up the sleeve of a sweater. He doesn’t push it up very far (not Don Johnson-ish) and it doesn’t stay up for long but it is the idea that he is getting ready to really get down to some serous dancing but that he is so comfortable in his perfectly cut suit that he has no need to remove the jacket just push the sleeves up a bit. As a photographer (Funny Face) I dream of one day have a wardrobe that I would feel so comfortable wearing while working that i would never need to “dress-down” to go shoot.
Really, that moment is so small, so throw-away and yet speaks so loudly about “HOW” one would like to feel wearing any clothes that it is inspiration absolute.

Don’t get me wrong Cary Grant is everything that everyone says he is but ,to me, Fred Astaire is all that AND a bag of chips ( I can’t believe I just described Fred Astaire that way – I have no class!!……and yet, I do have a delete button and spellcheck that I never seem to use)

So, am I crazy?

Grant vs Astaire – what say ye?

This week we will also hear from Bruce G. Boyer (Fred Astaire Style, Assouline) and Richard Torregrossa ( Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style, Bulfinch) – the two men that literally “wrote the book” on the style of Astaire and Grant.

For the readers that offers up the most compelling defense of Astaire and Grant the authors have offered to send that reader an autographed copy of their book.

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

On The Street…….Ulla, New York City



Ulla said that her Grandma made that dress – i don’t usually shoot models but Ulla really does have great personal style.

Monday, August 6, 2007

What To Do About Lapo?


Lapo was just named to Vanity Fair’s International Best-Dressed List
Now that we have a few years of seeing Lapo’s personal style develop, do we think he will become one of the fashion icons of our generation?
You would think inheriting Gianni Agnelli’s wardrobe would assure a certain level of style but Lapo still seems very hit and miss to me.

While were at it what do we think of Vanity Fairs Best-Dressed List?

Apparently one needs to make at least 7 figures annually to be considered for that list – I mean, Tiki Barber? really???

Instead of complaining, I have to get off my ass and make my own The Sartorialist Best-Dressed List.

If your name includes Duke of…. or Countess….. or Academy Award Nominee…. then you are automatically dismissed.

Maybe in December I can pull a few nominees and we can do a poll on the blog. The top men’s and women’s vote-getters are named The Sartorialist Best- Dressed.

Monday, August 6, 2007

Stockholm Next Week!!

I have been invited to cover Stockholm Fashion Week so next week I will posting shots from the shows and streets of Stockholm.
The last trip was so successful – I can’t wait to return.

Also, this weekend, I will be shooting in The Hamptons for Style.com and The Sartorialist

Monday, August 6, 2007

On The Street…….Summer Short, Here and There

Williamsburg, Brooklyn
I actually really like her knit bloomers

Sunday, August 5, 2007

On The Street…….Being There, Paris



Sometimes getting a good shot is just being in the right place, at the right time, and actually realizing that you are in that moment.

Marina (above) and I were waiting for a show in Paris and I saw this incredible light and told her “quick, jump into the street, the light is perfect!”

It could have been with almost anyone and the photo still would have turned out this way – luckily, Marina always looks very cool.

Recently, I have been reviewing my photos from the last two years for a few projects and as much as I love Milan I get so many great shots in Paris.

I think it must have been a photographer that first called Paris “The City of Light”

Oh wait, isn’t Paris also called “Big Sky Country”, I never got that one.

I also don’t understand why New York is called “The Buckeye State”.

Sunday, August 5, 2007

On The Street…….Old-School Braces, New York



Sometimes you see a guy and think that he must be pretty conservative and yet ,literally, just under the surface he has just enough humor to keep you guessing.

Apparently these are very old-school braces but they are soooo old-school that they look completely modern again.

Here is a link to the website of the company that makes them.
Albert Thurston Braces

Friday, August 3, 2007

On The Street……..Dressed Shorts, Milano



I think it is hard to make shorts look anything but casual but ,wow, this guy really shows how to dress up them up in a very real world way.
I also think this is a super sophisticated summer color combo – almost pre-dates Prada Summer 2008
This is the kind of shot I will revisit next March/April when I am starting to really shape up my summer wardrobe.

Friday, August 3, 2007

On The Street…….Williamsburg, New York

Friday, August 3, 2007

On The Street…….Graphic Floral, Milan

Thursday, August 2, 2007

Old Buddy!, Milan



When I was at the Calvin show in Milan last time, just as a goof, I went to see if my painter friend was still around the neighborhood. I was surprised to see that he was in almost the same spot as last time having lunch with his co-workers.
I walked over and I didn’t need to say a single word – it was like he had been waiting all day for his turn. We don’t speak each others language, I don’t know his name and yet it is like we are old buddies.

What could he possibly be telling his wife that morning? ” Yes, I have to have my portrait taken today by a crazy American soooooo I will choose my navy vest and Orange nylon fannypack!”

He will definitely be getting a few prints next summer in Milan.

Ciao, Buddy!

Thursday, August 2, 2007

On The Street……..21st Print, New York City

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Wonderfully Harmless Bravado, Milan



Not to get into the whole “rules” thing again but a guy standing-up always looks best with his jacket buttoned, don’t you think?

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Black & Right (I have to think up some new captions!)

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

On The Street……..Via Tortona, Milan

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

They Came From Kiton, Milan