The Sartorialist

Wow, very, very well done -exactly what a New York summer should look like.

For the last few seasons designers have been pushing cotton suits for Summer.
Though cotton suits have a certain appeal they are almost always heavier and warmer to wear in Summer than a high-twist wool like this gentleman is wearing.

I really like the patch pockets on the DB suit – it gives a usually stuffy DB a slightly more sporty, Spring-ish flair.

(I guess I should clarify – Summer is not this young woman’s name, I meant the season)

Did you ever see that movie Funny Face?

This young lady reminds me of that movie.

Audrey Hepburn was pretty chic as the (before) bookish shop clerk and very chic in the (after) fashion muse.

I would like to thank everyone for all your support and kind comments over the weekend.

Your comments were so beautiful and kind that I feel a little self-conscious sharing them but ,again, thanks.

When I started the blog I never really thought about the relationship I would have with the audience but it is definitely one of the most pleasant surprises to come out of this whole crazy experience.

Everyone is doing great and everything is back to normal so on with the show!!

June will be a big month at The Sartorialist!

Right now I am schedule to visit the follwoing cities.

Venice – for the Biennale

Basel – for Art Basel

Rome – because it is Rome (plus ,maybe, some beach shots)

Florence – for Pitti Uomo (menswear trade show)

Milan – Mens collections

Paris – Mens collections

Signing Patrick Robinson is the best move Gap has made in years.
I loved his work at Perry Ellis and he has a track record working for large companies like Armani.

H&M and Zara have left Gap spitting their dust but I still have an affection for Gap plus it will keep J. Crew on their toes.

This will be fun to watch.

Some recent family health issues have cut back on my shooting the last week.

Everything is working out fine and I will be shooting and posting again on a regular schedule by Tuesday.

Thanks for your patience

S

I think that there is a misperception that all fashion editors are pampered, over-privileged divas that earn a ton of money and get all their clothes for free.

I can hear it in some of the comments on my blog and from some people I meet on the street – they are inspired by fashion editors but they also feel a little disconnected from them.

Well, you shouldn’t.

By far the majority of editors I have met over the last year are very much real women, just like you – they come in a whole range of sizes, ages, races, and ,depending on their management level, they make a very wide ranging scale of money.

What they all seem to have in common is a great style – thats why they are fashion editors.

I bring this up because yesterday I ran into Kristin Rawson, a fashion editor at Teen Vogue, ( disclaimer: you all know I’m a big Teen Vogue fan) and she looked so great – as you can see.

She was very happy and confident in telling me her dress was from Zara.

I thought that was really cool.

I’m sure (no, I know) many young editors or stylists ,trying to make a name for themselves, feel the potential pressure to always wear designer labels to prove they “fit in” with the fashion crowd. Thats why when I see someone like Kristen , looking great in Zara, I feel doubly inspired because she not only looks so cool but because she is doing it on her terms and in a way that works for her.

She seems to care about the result not the label.

I think that is one of the reasons Teen Vogue looks so good right now because the editors are not just dictating something to you but they are really living it – that’s them on those pages.
Their style and attitudes are so clearly reflected on the pages.

Same with Paris Vogue, that’s them, the editors, on those pages.

That is a major reason I like shooting the editors (and not the models) at the shows , they are the Derek Jeters of fashion.

Bravo Kristin.

He makes two style elements look very cool here
- The tie tuck
- Pants with side-tabs that can be worn without a belt.

(ok, the charming smile helps a little too)

I saved this shot for GQ but it didn’t fit the page.
I love how this gentleman is really working the working buttonholes on his jacket.

ps this is also for all the requests for men on bikes!!

Everything just about perfect
Sleeve length, fit of the jacket, complementary color combination for his skin, slightly funky hair for such a refined suit.
It took me about an hour after I took this photo to finally remember who this young man reminded me of…..a modern Thelonious Monk(below).

With that 50′s hair, short jacket, white tee, and jeans this young man reminds me of a Swede Fonzie

She is one of the most sophisticated 15 year olds I have ever met…..actually I should say she looks like a very sophisticated young lady, I have no idea if she really is but to pull off that look she has to be basing it on some internal elegance .

This young lady would only agree to let me take her photo if she could wear the lampshade she just bought as a hat.

She bought it to wear to a party later that night.

Fashion should be fun.

Giovanna was in town after shooting in LA.

I love the level of sophistication that the teenagers in Stockholm possess.

Recently I did a post about Luciano Barbera and his watch over his shirt cuff.

Several of the commenters thought it was just silly and affected but this is an example of why wearing a big watch over your cuff can be very practical.

I’m sure this gentleman’s shirt sleeve length is perfect (this is the same gentleman, a tailor, that I posted recently looking supercool wearing a cream vest with his suit) but he will always look a little off when is sleeve is caught on watch.

Now, I’m not trying to get guys to start wearing their watches differently but I’m just saying it might not be as affected and maybe even more practical than not doing it.

Love the just-eccentric- enough DIY hat

In menswear the little details make all the difference.

When I first saw this gentleman’s look I thought it was nice, that is, until I noticed the little pleating detail on the shoulder of his jacket.

Now I think it is totally cool.

I love it when a detail that is done to make a garment fit better also makes for more interesting design.

I have no idea why they do it or the historical significance but I do know it looked pretty cool.

What he is wearing is basically Gap khakis, polo, and sneakers but the extra slim cut make it look so much better than what i can buy at Cherry Vail Mall.

Click here for more images Cookiemag.com

The wonderful folks at Style.com sponsored my trip to Stockholm

More photos from that trip just went up on both their women’s and men’s page.

Here is the link Style.com & Men.Style.com

With the short jacket. crazy hair and boots this guy looks like he just stepped off the Comme Des Gar

Most young men in the US are heavily influenced by Italian style (like me). We buy a lot of Armani, Borrelli – whatever the label as long as it is (or sounds) Italian.

In Stockholm I was pleasantly surprised to see how influenced the young men are by Savile Row.

I mean look at this gentleman, London personified – even his posture says “stiff upper-lip”

It is great to see a young woman looking so cool and casual in Armani.

The women in Stockholm looked so great because ,as you can see in these last few posts, there is such a range of styles in the that city right now.

It is that range that makes Stockholm so fascinating to me. I think it is now my second favorite city in Europe to shoot in after Milan – and that is saying a lot.

Ok, he is a model but I’m not going to hold it againist him but I do give him credit for a very good color combo of the blue/teal jkt with the green tee and a slice of red watch.

Dont forget you can click on an image to enlarge the photo

To me this is a perfect blend of classic italian tailoring with a modern , almost Jil Sanderesque, treatment. Bravo! Very Well Done!

The Swedes are so proud of H&M that they make it look really great.
It reminds me of how Americans felt about Gap/Banana Republic back in the Nineties.

I have said before i am conflicted about H&M here in NYC because the shops are so big and messy but I think I will give them a second chance.

The stores in the US seem so much larger than the European units which make them much harder to maintain. Maybe as they expand here they will make smaller units that they can control; better.

I would love if the coolness factor that they have in Sweden could translate a little better here – we need it because I don’t see Gap turning it around any time soon.

I guess I will always have J.Crew.

Anyway this young lady makes her V&R H&M trench look great and she had grey gloves that matched her grey shoes ( matchy in a good way)

Since I began posting images from Stockholm I have received a lot of comments like this

“Hm, in stureplan/

What a perfect combination of hi-waisted pants and short waisted jacket!

Bold, Graphic & Classic – that is a good mix

I think this is an unusually high level of sophistication for such a young lady AND she did it without spending a lot on designer labels.
- Plush textured coat with an interesting collar and it is not a trench which is the coat of the moment here.
- great dress that is short and has a young feel but still very good design details
- brilliant choice of dark plum tights
- a shoe with just enough height
- great hair

Young ladies like this, with this level of style, make hipsters seem a bit tired to me.

You’re on notice East Village and Nolita – it’s time to raise your game!

Speechless!

Stockholm is awesome

You know when you keeping hearing about a movie is so good that you start thinking that there is no way it can be that good – well Stockholm was kinda like that great movie EXCEPT this city really delivered.

Yesterday I think i took more photos in one day than I ever taken in any city except Milan. I am so happy with the level of sophistication and variety of style here in Stockholm.

Tailored, sexy, punky, hipster, funky (was that a Haiku?) are all done here and done very well. I will stop typing now and concentrate on getting more images.

I can’t wait to share these shots!.

I like how he has taken a pretty basic look and made it pop with a little color from the scarf.

I want to send a big thank you to German Vanity Fair for commissioning this tour of Germany.
It has been a real adventure and hopefully the first of many!

Also big, big thanks to Clark Parkin, who effortlessly guided me through the high/low of each city and helped me be in the right place at the right time.

here is a link to the German Vanity Fair website German Vanity Fair

I just arrived in Stockholm late last night and I’m ready to rock!
I took the train all the way from Berlin – long ride but so beautiful.
Actually beautiful and cold are my first reactions of Stockholm.
Luckily I bought the scarf I’m wearing in Hamburg (only 15 Euro) and the jacket at Aspesi n Milan (more than 15 Euro).

I will start working in a few images from here Friday or Saturday to go along with a lot more images from all over Germany.

Again, not something I would wear but it is great to see him wear it so well.

I love how well everything works together – the smaller collar with that knot, the fold of the pocket square (again rare) and the notch-lapel instead of the more traditional peak-lapel.

This reminds me of Morris Day and The Time.

I just noticed how nicely she would match up with the Hamburg gentelman one post below her.

This falls under the category – I wouldn’t do it but it works very well for him.

I do think the importance of his hair to complete this look cannot be overstated.

This is how thery dress at the mall in Berlin – ok. not everyone but at least one person

McQueen would see something like this and make the most incredible skirt or dress from the inspiration.