The Sartorialist

What a great job this young man has done with color

The Keds
I saw these a lot in London but it is the first time I have seen them in New York.

In every way just as lovely as part 1

My video is now up on Style.com

Monday ,on the spur of the moment, I decided to take a train down to Philadelphia.
I thought it would be fun to shake things up a bit and shoot in a different city.

What a bust!
I didn’t shoot anything all day.

I know Philly has style – they have several really good stores like Adresse, Joan Shepp and Boyd’s so someone there is buying great clothes but I guess they weren’t out Monday afternoon.

Funny enough the next day back in New York I see this woman ( who I think looks really great) and she is from Philadelphia!. She came to New York on a shopping trip ( wait, maybe I’m projecting, I’m guessing it was for a shopping trip).
Anyway I will give Philly another chance soon.
I don’t pay a lot of attention to “my color palette” stuff but Wow – when someone really understands their coloring and how to use makeup to highlight it, it is so noticeable and inspiring.

Personally my skin tone is a kind of pale blue, any ideas?

I’m so excited for tomorrows premiere of the video I produced for Style.com.

It is called Intersections and will be on the new StyleStudio section of Style.com.

What you will see is basically a video version of The Sartorialist. Above are a few stills that I shot for the video which are intercut between three short interviews of ladies I found that day. We were at the “intersection” of 57th & 5th so ,trust me, the ladies are pretty fab.

I will post the exact link tomorrow.

Ok, as you can see the street was pretty busy and I only saw glimpses of this gentleman as he made his way down Madison Ave.
At first I couldn’t decide what I thought but ,like a picture coming into focus, the closer he got the more intrigued I became by his look and swagger.

Once I got a full view I could immediately tell everything was too perfect to have been “just thrown together”. Just as much as a Savile Row suit this look is all about fit. The cardigan and shirt are the perfect length, the pants are perfectly personalized, the shoes well-aged, and the hat! – don’t get me started at how perfect his pose must reflect his personality.
This man has style in his bones.

We really didn’t talk much after I took the shot but I could just tell he must be a “somebody”, but who?

I imagined he was an artist stopping by his Madison Ave. art dealers gallery to discuss an overdue masterpiece or a modern day Ernest Hemingway. (Wow, I just googled Hemingway and found a fantastic photo of him that I will post tomorrow!)

Later that day I asked someone I thought might know who he was and he said “that’s the guy that heads Ralph Lauren’s vintage department.”

Apparently this gentlemen travels the world buying all the great vintage items (frames,books,fixtures etc) that you find decorating Ralph’s stores. (pardon me if I don’t have the job description perfectly correct)

To me, that is almost as romantic a job as being a famous artist.

I shot this young lady a few days after the “modern Hemingway” shot above – I thought she would make such a perfect companion to his look and maybe it could illustrate how a young lady might interpret that look.

I love the plaid shirt working back to the zip sweater and the overall slouchiness. I think this might be the first time I have been jealous of a girls outfit (not that there is anything wrong with that)

I am proud to announce that The Sartorialist has been nominated for the Absolut 100 (in the blog section)

Apparently Absolut is creating a top 100 list covering all types of fields like designers, chef, bar or band etc

The other blogs are big-time like The Huffington Post or Engadget or Boing Boing – I am just happy to be included (but I really want to win!!)

if you want to vote for The Sartorialist just click the link below (but do it quick because voting ends soon)

Absolut 100

Barbour Coats are just about the best value in menswear.

The quilted jacket above is the Liddesdale model and sells in the US for about $145. I love mine, it is lightweight and keeps me perfectly warm and works well with both business or casual wear.

I also have the Bedale waxed jacket in original green. I bought mine almost 10 years ago and wore it until it was literally in shreds.
I simply took it to the Barbour store in New York and they sent it to be repaired. Unfortunately, now it looks just like new – crap! I should have had them only fix half of the rips. Now it will take me another 5 years to get it back into bad shape!

I love how well the subtle textures of her dress, tights and socks all work together.
Her look could almost be called Minimalist but there is actually so much going on here – Jil would be proud.

Oh how I love that suit – cotton corduroy if I remember correctly.
Great fit and color combination and notice the ever so slight break in the pants.
He mentioned that he had the jacket taken in at the waist and had the pants narrowed in the leg. This is how a suit should fit and if it needs a bit of work, well, you can see it is worth it.
ps If you think the Bergdorf catalogs have looked great lately (like i do) then this is one of the guys to thank

Easily one of my favorite shots i have ever taken. I ran it originally on Style.com but I wanted to have it here on my blog also.

This gentleman is living that look.

I love the clean, understated grey underneath that puts the focus on the shoes and trench,
What is great is that even though the base items (grey) are neutral they still stand on their own – the pants have a great cut and the turtleneck is so classic.

In case you were wondering it is a YSL jacket (not that there is anything wrong with that)

I love those exaggerated slant of the pockets on the jacket and look at him showing that cuff!

Griege, black, brown – it is often difficult to get those colors to work together well but this young lady does a great job
Vintage Ferragamo shoes. She said the main attraction to the shoes was that they were brown/black spectators.
I love the scarf detail – it is two scarves tied together making one large circle scarf
The secret to her scarf detail is that she buys several of the $5 street pashmina scarves. I guess when they are $5 you can affor to buy in bulk.

I took this photo a year ago (the weekend before Thanksgiving) and it is one of my all time favorites.

You can tell there is something purposefully a little off about the suit – how British

Look at the guy I posted a few days ago with the DB suit and wearing a hat – his sleeves were also a bit short with no cuff( maybe short sleeve?).

I’m asking any UK readers if this look has a name or what the concept behind it is.

The real effect of Thom Browne’s work is that when I see a guy like this on the street I don’t really notice the length of his jacket.
When I look at the photo for a minute I notice it but now a short jacket (even this short) looks kinda normal to me. I think it helps that all of his items are in black and blend into each other.

There is a great photo of Italian Sartorialist icon Gianni Agnelli in the December Town & Country.

As all Sartorialists know, Gianni was well known for his for his quirky but very refined taste.
His watch-outside-the-shirt-cuff is well documented but what struck me about this photo was the watch itself. It’s not a Rolex or some other big name watch but a digital watch! I would love to think it is a Casio.

The photo is from 1980 so maybe a digital watch had a little more allure then but I love and Gianni is remembered for not being afraid to mix high-end/low-end or craft/tech.

So ,with this as evidence, don’t you think Gianni ,if he were 50 years old today, would be using a cellphone as his watch? I just hope he wouldn’t be wearing it on his belt!

I love this mix.

Before you go chopping your hair off because of the last two “Best of Season…”

ok , I don’t smoke and I’m not trying to promote smoking – so lets all agree to just look at the hair.

I only saw this girl at one show but she really stoodout (for all the right reasons)

When I showed Beppe’s safety-pin tie clasp in two separate looks before it was always with a knit tie. Several people asked if it could be done only with a knit tie – well, I found another photo I hadn’t published and he is wearing his safety-pin with a wool (cashmere?) tie.

p.s. I bought a safety-pin tie clasp like this at Ralph Lauren for $10 – I also saw a silver version in Paris for $149 Euros.

A lot of actresses are called the next Audrey Hepburn but I think this young lady is the closest thing I’ve ever seen.

Some people like to peep alone.
Some peoiple like to peep with a friend.
Some people like to peep with a lover.
Some people like to take a picture when they peep.
Some people like to peep quick.
And some people like to peep before their time.

I love this mix of plaid tie, striped shirt and pinstriped suit.
This is one of my favorite stores to shop at in Milan.

For more shots from London checkout December GQ

For the next week or so I will be running some of my favorite shots from my recent European trip here on The Sartorialist.

Of course I will continue to run new shots everyday but I just wanted to have some of my favorites here.

Thanks

Yasmin is the director of women’s buying for Browns of London.

As you can see she really has great style. One thing that I noticed while reviewing these shots is that Yasmin doesn’t rely on big time accessories or “must-have” designer pieces but she she really rocks a great haircut and brilliant smile.

White shoes for winter are all the rage in London……for more London shots check out the Dec. GQ

I just bought the new GQ with my page of photos from London – I love it and love the whole issue.

It is the Men of the Year issue so ,of course, I bought the one with Will Ferrell on the cover – sorry Jay-Z.

I don’t want to sound like a kiss-ass but you have to checkout the new videos on GQ.com

The “How to Buy a Suit” video is great and the roundtable discussion on the recent men’s shows in Milan is also really fun.

Here is the link GQ.com

So what do you think?
I like the overall look – the hair, the scarf, the ease of how he wears the suit but I admit the trainers throw me a little.

I like trainers with a suit but maybe the New Balance grey runners or Jack Purcells ( to me, it is always Jack Purcells first).

I don’t think Style.com posted these shots when I was in Milan but I love that this women has so focused her look and only changes the color each day.

How many colors do you think she has in this? Grey flannel , tan cotton in the summer.

I can’t wait to go back to Milan in January to see how she does this look for Winter.

Does she wear the jacket and have her overcoat on her shoulders?

Wow, I’m really getting too into my blog!

I must go do something manly now – chop wood or something

I love the color of the puffer vest but the best part is the shorter length – often puffer coats or vest can overwhelm a person but the shorter length makes for a much better proportion.

On Tuesday I was being photographed for an article on The Sartorialist that will appear in the Japanese mens fashion magazine Brutus.
Mr. Kinoshita is the fashion editor and he really looked great – I love the overall fit of his suit and how he wore his cardigan draped across his shoulders – when I first met him the cardigan was more draped over his left shoulder in a very cool way but not too forced.

I love talking men’s fashion with David. He has a classic yet slightly subversive view on style – how British!

One vent or two?
Two vents always really it’s a mod hang up

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist?s outfit (Jacket Shoulder, overall fit, shoes)
If I had to say, I tend to look to see if they have hand stitched button holes, (bit snobby though)

I skimp when buying
I don’t skimp on anything

I splurge when buying
(see above) consistency is a good thing and I think you should have good taste in everything doesn’t have to be expensive necessarily though just good

I always break this fashion rule.
If it is a rule Black Patent shoes in the day I like the glamour and the clean obsidian look of them

I never break this fashion rule.
Bottom button done up on a jacket (or coat) I shout abuse at the T.V. when I see that

Must have item for Fall 2005
Puppy tooth jacket especially black trousers or even primary red if one is being daring

Favorite store
Duncan Quinn of course -! If I had to say another one it would be Douglas hayward London

Style icon
So many I used to like Brian ferry and David Bowie but now I don’t try to emulate

Most cherished item
Silver handled umbrella

Favorite item of clothing
My three piece Bespoke Dinner suit – I am getting a white cashmere waistcoat made up at the moment (the cloth is Loro Piana) I am really looking forward to seeing it finished

Favorite ?fashiony? movie
Godfather although I don’t know if it’s “fashiony” like Bladerunner for example

Guilty pleasure
Worlds wildest police chases on TV I love the commentary from Sheriff John Brunnel? ‘This chase ended up with a broken van and a broken man!’ and so on.

Describe your personal style
I am very influenced by the mod aesthetic which is very clean and almost boring but I also like a bit of glamour and I also like very classic clothes so bit of a mix there I don’t like to pin myself down to a look that’s quite boring and a bit closed minded I think.

You feel best wearing?
A good suit, calf length socks, good shoes a White silk Bespoke shirt a simple solid tie (probably gun metal) Cufflinks, 1920s Omega watch and a nicely starched white linen Handkerchief.

Personal Style quirk
I have at least 12 plain white shirts all the same when the cuff wears out even slightly I give them to my Girlfriend

Most overrated item in menswear
Watch

Most underrated item in menswear
Cravat or Ascot

Most stylish city
New York

Never caught wearing?
Ozwald boateng suit

When I was high school I wore?
Being English, I wore a uniform – I wore a blazer which wasn’t compulsory, I think I was the only person in a school of a thousand that wore a blazer. I got head butted on my first day because of it but I continued to wear it for three years. I thought it made me look really smart.

Shine your own shoes?
when I have time, I do a better job

Favorite fashion magazine?
ID

Favorite other magazine?
Viz
Cologne, skincare?
No

I always dress my best for?.?
My Bespoke appointments.
My Job is really hands on and I can be on my hands and knees doing a window display or flying around literally or metaphorically so it’s not always practical to wear a three piece suit with all the trimmings at work which is a shame but I still think I look rather presentable anyway what I am wearing in the picture is typical. but when I am purely customer focused I like to amp it up a bit.

Old Man Style!

This is the author of the new book Chic in Paris – now you know what she is caring in that wonderful bag.

Gentle Giant , Fort Greene
Outside Williamsburg
For Alicia
Hipsters of Fort Greene
Cheerleaders of Brooklyn

I just want to come clean now before this gets out in the newspapers.

I admit I was not wearing a pocket square with my track suit!!!!!

The shame!

People who have read The Sartorialist for a while will recognize FBM as one of my favorite subjects , he always looks great even for a casual Friday.

Could anything be more modern than sequins for day – this is how to do it.

Here the sequins both lighten the overall color palette and add texture to the look.

A navy skirt instead of black is also very important for keeping the look from being too dressy or evening-ish.

The tailored overcoat gives just a touch of menswear and the metallic gold color of the shoes is a perfectly unexpected way to finish off an outfit.

This is exactly the type of inspirational look that I hope people visit The Sartorialist for – it is not about the designers of the individual pieces or the price of any of her pieces but the abstract idea of how she has mixed color, texture, day/evening. masculine/femme.

Leopard gloves and scarf , Harlem

Long cardigan and dress layered, Williamsburg
Dad & Daughter , Fort Greene
Almost to Willamsburg
Love the raw edge jacket detail and the fact that he paired it back to sweatpants for a casual Sunday look

I don’t know quite how it happened but I ended up running about 6 to 8 miles of the Marathon yesterday through Brooklyn and then Harlem.

I wanted to be extra comfortable while I was trying to keep up with the runners so I wore my running gear Sunday. Since I had gotten a late start I was a little behind my planned schedule so I decided it would be easier to run along with them than try and walk. If you notice all the shots are from the street out to the sidewalk. I have run two Marathons before in ’95 and ’96 so it wasn’t too taxing but it really made me want to start preparing for next year.

On a related note I was stopped twice on Saturday by people thinking I was Lance Armstrong – odd.

I rarely notice makeup (maybe that is the point) but this young lady had the most subtle smokey eyes. Just at the crease and corners of her eyes – just dramatic enough for day.

Domenico always does a great job using strong color and doing it a way that is still very masculine

I shot this gentleman near 57th street the other day and as i reviewed the photo I kept finding all these well done little details that when combined are the secret to the success of his look.
First of all, I love the aggressive yet subtle (weird way to describe – I know) mix of pattern for his shirt, tie, and suit.
This is the type of thing that people who don’t understand menswear miss about how a guy can look edgy and completely classic at the same time. I find this level of creativity in mixing patterns and color in every way equal to another slim-cut black Dior Homme suit with a tricked-up white shirt. I’m not saying i don’t appreciate Dior but those type of designers don’t own the market on true design creativity
He is wearing an Etro suit.
Etro is better know for being one of the more colorful and sometimes over-the-top menswear houses ( the Italian Paul Smith) but this photo detail shows they can also deliver high-quality. Notice how the plaid matches at the sleeve seam and how well the plaids match at the breast-pocket.
Maybe Gianni Agnelli was right about wearing his watch on top of his cuff.
It is almost unavoidable that your cuff will get caught on your watch which is too bad because he is showing the perfect amount of cuff but the watch is throwing it off balance.
Personally I avoid this by using the clock on my cell phone – sorry watch industry

I saw this girl from a block away – she looked so great.
Like a little bit of Paris on Madison Ave.

I love that three-quarters length sleeve with the long, fingerless gloves.
I have seen so many giant bags lately but as soon as I saw that one I knew she was a dancer.