Archives

Wednesday, May 31, 2006

On The Street…. Michael Macko, VP Fashion Director, Saks Fifth Avenue

I’d like to send a big shout out to Michael – he was just promoted to VP-Fashion Director at Saks. Bravo Michael!

Wednesday, May 31, 2006

On The Street…. & The Short Of It, New York

Wednesday, May 31, 2006

The Story Behind The Style – Harlem


I had been in Harlem for a few hours and just hadn’t found anything to shoot. I finally gave up and decided to head back to Soho. After walking a few blocks down Madison Ave ,around 120th street, I see this gentleman – I literally stop in my tracks. I introduce myself and ask to photograph him. He says yes in a voice that sounds exactly like Ray Charles speaking voice. As I’m shooting he is telling me proudly about his community work and an upcoming Harlem bike race he is helping to organize. As I finish shooting I ask him about the suit he is wearing. I guess I was expecting to hear something about how he bought the suit back in the 70′s and has been wearing it every Sunday since then. That is definitely not the story I got.

“I got this suit in 1990, I was dealing drugs then and one of the girls I sold drugs to threw this suit at me as payment. She would usually steal $20 or $30 bucks and give me that but this time she just threw this suit at me”

I can’t make this stuff up, I can only hope to remember it until I can write it down. His story was not hard to remember.

Wednesday, May 31, 2006

On The Street…. The Long Of It…, New York

This young lady’s dress was the most beautiful soft shade of lilac. The color is what caught my eye from about a block away.

Tuesday, May 30, 2006

On The Street…. Black Summer, New York

This is a great example of how to wear black in summer. The fabric weights were spot on but more important was the overall fit – shorter, slimmer and more athletic makes black seem less oppressive in the warm months.

Tuesday, May 30, 2006

On The Street…. Daisy Of A Dress, New York

Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Adam Kimmel

Last week I saw Adam Kimmel’s collection for the first time. He really has hit the trifecta of accounts with Colette in Paris, Dover Street Market in London and Bergdorf’s in NYC. If he gets 10 Corso Como he should just quit because it is all downhill from there.

Adam’s collection is based on real workwear fabrics (the kind the super in my building wears), and he has played those against super luxe fabrics like cashmere or fur. One of Adam’s smartest moves was knowing that if you are going to use very basic fabrics then production has to be very good, so the manufacturing is done in Italy. The outerwear is particularly good – think stylized Carhartt (the heavy cotton coat with a squirrel fur lining was very interesting), and the jackets and suiting have a deliberate quirkiness to the cut. I can see why his collection appeals to the more advanced stores.

I asked Adam about the prices and he said, in a mater-of-fact way, that they were “all over the board”. He felt no need to overprice the workwear fabrics just so they fell in line with the cashmere groups. As long as he stays mostly with speciality stores this strategy should work. Only when he begins to court the more price structured department stores will he begin to have to deal with the questions of where do they place him. With such a wide price range he could be placed in designer in some stores, or contemporary in others, all depending on which part of the collection they buy into more. He could even have to move by season within an existing account depending on the buyer’s presentation, but that would really be a pain for everyone so it will be a challenge for him.

With that said, Adam has set himself up in a really great position for future growth. He has been able to charm some of the worlds most discriminating stores with a collection of very proletarian fabrics and the most luxe fabrics. Going forward he has the whole world of fabric (at all price points) to begin layering into his collection. If he continues to build a reputation as a “quirky fabric guy” he can add everything from denim to super 120′s and still have it fit his aesthetic without seeming like he is selling out or stretching to get a lower price point. A designer like Thom Browne, for instance, has set such a premium on luxe and tailoring that he has given himself very little room for expanding into new fabrications or price points. If he begins to add layers to his collection that are anything less than the original, won’t it seem a little like “Thom Browne Lite”?
To me Adam has really set himself up with an almost perfect business model. Sure, anyone could think of it but to actually do it is so, so difficult.

This is another one of those dance-of-the-young-designer that I think is so fun to watch. It will be really interesting to see what choices Adam makes and if he can turn this early success into a “big time” or at least “long time” business. After all who am I to say that “big time” business should be his goal? Maybe Mr. Alaia has had it right all along.

Not to put more pressure on you Adam but we will be watching.

Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Memorial Day White Dress, NYC

I don’t know who this is but she just looks famous.

Monday, May 29, 2006

On The Street….Happy Memorial Day, New York

Monday, May 29, 2006

Old Man Style….Washington Square Park

Monday, May 29, 2006

On The Street…..Nolita, New York

Sunday, May 28, 2006

On The Street…..Midtown, New York


Notice no crease in the pants

Sunday, May 28, 2006

On The Street…..Uptown, New York

Saturday, May 27, 2006

On The Street…..West Village, New York

Saturday, May 27, 2006

On The Street…..Soho, New York

Friday, May 26, 2006

On The Street…..The Navy Blazer And Layer, New York

Friday, May 26, 2006

On The Street…..Bleeker Street, New York

Friday, May 26, 2006

On The Street…..Fat Bald Man Always Looks Great, New York


The key to the entire look is the perfect lenght of the suit jacket

Friday, May 26, 2006

On The Street…..Retro In Shorts, New York

Thursday, May 25, 2006

Style Profile…..Simon Kneen, VP & Creative Design Director, Brooks Brothers

One of the first posts I did on The Sartorialist was about how surprisingly good the Brooks Brothers Fall 2005 advertising campaign was.

The store is also looking really good lately – they seem to be finding and good balance between classics and modern fashion. I guess it helps that so many of the classics Brooks Brothers has introduced through the years are so fashionable right now. I sat down with one of the main men behind the Brooks Brothers revival Simon Kneen ,VP & Creative Design Director, to find out a little more about his personal style.

Best Sartorial advice from your Dad?
Be Smart!

I only buy ____slim pants_____ in Europe.

I only buy ____button down shirts______ in America.

You build your daily look around your?
Color palette ? coordinated and never matched

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist?s outfit.
Overall togetherness

I skimp when buying.
My rule is to always buy the best you can afford

I splurge when buying.
Socks – as I only recently discovered cashmere ones

I always break this fashion rule.
There are no rules in fashion and if I felt there were I would certainly break them.
Now good taste is another question?..

Must have item for Fall 2006
Something in natural camelhair ? sweater or sportcoat

Favorite store
New York ? Brooks Brothers Madison
London ? Purdey
Paris ? Old England (sadly closing)
Milan ? Biffi Uomo
Hong Kong ? Dries Van Noten

Style icon
Anyone in Milan

Worst fashion mistake
Too many to mention

Most cherished item
Denims that have aged with me.

Favorite item of clothing
Brooks Brothers Made to Measure suits and My button down oxford shirts.

Favorite ?fashiony? movie
Funny Face

Guilty pleasure
I never feel guilty about any pleasure.

Personal Style quirk
At the moment no socks with shoes and pocket squares

Most overrated item in menswear
I?m not a tie person

Most underrated item in menswear
Having things tailored to your body.

Most stylish city?
Milan by far ?though London is catching up .

Never caught wearing?
Flip ?flops and headwear indoors.

When I was high school I wore?
School uniform of grey flannel and the most horrendous shade of Royal Blue for blazers and sweaters.

Shine your own shoes?
Sometimes yes. It is good therapy in making me appreciate the good things I can afford.

Hobby?
Music

Sports?
Tennis when I visit my family in England

Favorite fashion magazine?
American Vogue

Favorite other magazine?
Vanity Fair

Cologne, skincare?
Creed Eurofla ? been wearing it forever and I always moisturize with anything available after shaving

Thursday, May 25, 2006

Human Game – A Sartorialist Take On Sports & Style

Two of New Yorks top Sartorialists , Nick Sullivan of Esquire and Stefano Tonchi of New York Times have contributed on a new book called Human Game.

The book explores the relationship between Sports and Style. If you read the recent article about Thom Browne by Sandra Nygaard in DNR it is easy to see how dramatically sports can inspire even the highest echelons of fashion.

The book will premiere at Pitti Uomo in Florence so as I figure it the book will cost about $9,000 – once I pay for the plane ticket, hotel, and food.

I guess I could check B&N.com before I go through all that but that wouldn’t be nearly as much fun.

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

On The Street……Karim Rashid In All White

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

On The Street……Brown Dress #2, New York

So Simple, So Sexy!

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

On The Street…..Madras Pants, New York

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

On The Street……Brown Dress #1, New York


So fresh, so simple, so sweet.

Tuesday, May 23, 2006

On The Street…Blue Moleskin Jacket, New York


This makes the second time in a week that I have seen a blue moleskin jacket look really good.
Here he has paired it with tonal cords.

Tuesday, May 23, 2006

On The Street…Scalloped-Edge Coat, New York

The cold snap we have had in New York the last two days has fed my need for scarves!

Tuesday, May 23, 2006

On The Street….Madison Ave, New York

This look falls under the “not something I would wear ” but it is a perfectly executed expression of personal style.
So many great elements – the loafers, the club collar, the DB jacket w/ only the inside button buttoned. Bravo

Tuesday, May 23, 2006

On The Street….That Hair, That Smile, New York

Ok, I have come to realize that women with great hair usually have a great smile.

Is it the hair that is giving them such a joyful smile?

Here is a hint to the gentleman – try giving your wife/girlfriend a gift certificate to a top notch hair salon for her next birthday/anniversary/getting-out-of-the-doghouse gift and see if you don’t end up with the biggest smile by the next day.

Monday, May 22, 2006

On The Street…..For Hedi, New York

Monday, May 22, 2006

On The Street…..Spring Street, New York

Monday, May 22, 2006

On The Street…..Seersucker Sunday, New York

Could there be a better example of the two ways to wear a seersucker suit than these two gentleman? I love the shoes on both guys – I would probably wear Jack Purcells but thats just me.

Actually, the gentleman in the top photo is the creative director for J.Press, the gentleman in the lower photo is wearing a J. Press seersucker suit and probably has been wearing them since before Mark was born.

Sunday, May 21, 2006

On The Street…..Westside, New York


So what would we call this style? It is not American or Italian or even modern Jil Sander or Dior-ish, I’m leaning towards a Retro French late 50′s thing – I think it is the shape of the coat that is giving me that vibe

Saturday, May 20, 2006

On The Street…..Headphones, New York


Both the pants and jacket are moleskin – I love that fabric for clothing. You really have to make sure the fit is just perfect because it is not very forgiving and the stiffness can look very bad on a shorter man but if tailored correctly it can look great – like in this example (notice it is a tall guy)

I also love that I shot him in his old=school headphones right outside the brand new Apple store on Fifth Ave.

Saturday, May 20, 2006

On The Street…..3/4 Sleeve Princess, New York


I’m a complete sucker for a 3/4 sleeve. Whether it is done as “straight-up princess” like this or even when is is vintage and layered over a hoodie.

Friday, May 19, 2006

Style Cue – Part 2 “Scusi”


I saw the young guy I posted earlier and this fine young gentleman only a few blocks apart the other day. They both share the very Italian style of wearing the back of the tie slightly longer than the front. So Italian ,in fact, that I find it easier when approaching these guys to say “scusi” first, in my very limited but decent Italian accent. I find that this gives the subtle clue that i completely recognize they are Italian by their style alone – it has worked everytime so far. The down side is that they start speaking to me in Italian and I have to quickly explain that “scusi” is one of the few Italian words I know.

This gentleman happens to be an executive at Saint Andrews. Besides the tie, I also wanted to point out that he is wearing a buttondown shirt with his suit. I see buttondowns on Italians much more than Americans even though the buttondown is so essentially American. Thom Browne has done a great job working the buttondown back into our suited wardrobe but I would love to see versions done by some other houses like ,maybe, Hickey. Fred Astaire wore a lot of buttondowns, I would love to see that look modernized.

Friday, May 19, 2006

On The Street…..Prince Street, New York

Friday, May 19, 2006

Style Cue

When I approach someone to shoot ,especially if they don’t seem like New Yorkers, I often look for some type of style cue that may help break the ice.

Can anyone tell the style cue with this gentleman and how that might help me approach him?

Friday, May 19, 2006

On The Street…..Red,White & Blue, New York

Thursday, May 18, 2006

On The Street….Jay Kos, UES, New York

Thursday, May 18, 2006

On The Street…..Ninth Ave, New York

Sorry but the leggings completely take this look to a higher level of style.
I love how they dip under the ankle strap of the shoe.

Thursday, May 18, 2006

On The Street…….West Village, New York

Thursday, May 18, 2006

On The Street….A Feel Of Vintage, LES, New York

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

On The Street…….Carrot Man, New York


I was so surprised to this this guy (that I have shot before) in a big article in a recent Vanity Fair. i think most of his suits are A&S

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Mary Ellen Mark

Only in New York does a kids birthday party turn into a full-on fashion shoot by Mary Ellen Mark. It was fascinating to watch her work with her giant Polaroid camera and process the prints right on the scene.

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Gone In A Second

I see this guy across the street on Madison Avenue – hat, serious pocket square, gold watch-chain – smashing( I bet he will only get better with age). Before I could get another shot he was on the bus and gone.
That is one of the best things about New York, I don’t think you would see this guy on a public bus in Kansas City or Phoenix.

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

It Pays To Have A Past


So I see these two beautiful, young ladies in these great trenchcoats and I have to shoot them. When I ask, understandably, they are a bit hesitant. I try ,feebly, to explain my blog before they turn and go, I mention the press, the mood, my background but none of it is working. Finally I turn to their friend ,superstar stylist Phillip Bloch, and mentioned that we had met at my showroom a while back. Surprisingly he remembered and gave the ladies the “he’s ok ” kinda look. I never would have imagined that I would be in a position for Phillip Bloch to stand up for me but I guess it proves that you gotta be nice every day because people do remember.

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

On The Street…….Upper East Side Gent, NYC

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

On The Street…….Yellow Dress, New York

Monday, May 15, 2006

On The Street….Refined Casual #2, Lower East Side

Monday, May 15, 2006

The Sartorialist In DNR

I could not be more thrilled by the article in this weeks DNR written by the lovely Sandra Nygaard.
DNR is the bible of the menswear industry, I have been reading it since high school so this is a big deal to me.

Making Waves
As Gawker is the guilty pleasure of the New York media industry, ask any local fashion insider what?s bookmarked on their computer and it?s likely to be The Sartorialist (Thesartorialist.blogspot.com). Scott Schuman, 38, is the man behind the camera of this photo-driven blog site that focuses on the style of well-dressed New Yorkers from all walks of life. A former industry player who owned a showroom representing young designers, Schuman has no formal background in photography, new media or journalism, but his sharp photos, incisive interviews and clever commentary have created an outlet that?s savvy without being snobby. The animated and energetic blogger met with DNR to discuss how his site has grown into a mini-phenomenon. ?SANDRA NYGAARD

DNR: What made you want to launch your blog?
SCOTT SCHUMAN: When I first started it, I thought it would be all photos with not a lot of writing. I had been taking photos for a while in Chinatown, Harlem and Fulton Fish Market and I started realizing I had an interesting collection. They were style-driven but didn?t have anything do with fashion. I added new shots of people I?m inspired by with these older
shots and thought it might make a kind of cool site.

Tell me about your audience and how it?s grown since you started nine months ago.
The first month it was about 10,000 visits, and now I get about 6,000 visits and about 13,000 page views a day. My slowest month has been only 30 percent growth. I?d estimate that 20 to 30 percent of my readers are international. I did a survey and found out that my audience is 56 percent men, and age-wise 50 percent are in their twenties.

What about your site appeals to them?
An important part is that it?s a fashion site that?s not bitchy. It?s about style, not about how expensive things are. One photo could be of someone wearing Kiton, the next photo can be of an old guy in a really old suit or a skater.

How do you pick your photo subjects?
Something has to strike me about them. I don?t go out with any preconceived notions. Sometimes it?s seeing something quickly and deciding if I can find something interesting about it. Sometimes it?s not the whole outfit, sometimes it?s just the shoes.

What is the next level in terms of growth?
Robert Burke may become sort of a partner with me. We?re still trying to figure out how it will work. I think it?ll be something like using his consultancy to get an investor to help take me to the next level. There?s advertising potential for something like this. A lot of high-end men?s wear firms don?t really have a lot of places to advertise?certainly not on the Web. There will be more interviews. If we get an investor it?ll be more visual, with photos side by side or pop-up windows. Right now it?s very New York?driven, but I?ll start going to the shows in Europe and Pitti Uomo. I can shoot backstage and capture the excitement in a different way. I?m also thinking of starting events with retailers, where I sit down with a designer. I?ll ask my own questions, people in the audience can ask questions and I?ll also ask questions that people have written in to my site.

What role do you ultimately envision for yourself?
I could see me being the Anthony Bourdain of the fashion world. In his book he says something like, ?I?m not going to rip the veil off the cooking industry. I?m not trying to change it. I don?t hate it. I?m part of it. I?m just going to talk about it in the way that other cooks might be interested in hearing about it.? That?s what I?d like to do.

Monday, May 15, 2006

On The Street…….Black Shorts, New York

I can’t remember if she said this was Dries or Comme or a little of both. What really made this look work was that the hose were thigh-highs so when she walked it showed just the slightest bit of skin. It is almost impossible to bring sexiness to the austere Japanese aesthetic but this young lady did it.

Monday, May 15, 2006

On The Street…….About Color, New York

Sunday, May 14, 2006

Compare & Contrast

Lower East Side

Upper East Side

Sunday, May 14, 2006

On The Street….Avenue A, New York

Sunday, May 14, 2006

On The Street……..Tompkins Square Park, New York

Saturday, May 13, 2006

The Sartorialist Archives

Just a reminder, all posts of The Sartorialist are available in the archives located in the righthand column.

Friday, May 12, 2006

On The Street……..Old Man Mory, New York

Friday, May 12, 2006

On The Street……..Black Soho, New York


Wow, girls can even sit pigeon-toed. Love the hair

Friday, May 12, 2006

Handball….Chinatown, New York

Friday, May 12, 2006

On The Street……..Color #3, New York

I love that the first thing you notice about this lady is the beautiful color combination of her look or her accessories but it takes a while to recognize that she is a big woman. I had a conversation about this the other day with a woman who was very frustrated about her lack of choices in designer clothing for a woman over a size 12.

She is absolutely right but until the stores catchup with the demand(if they ever do) then don’t make it about the clothes, make it about the accessories. If you can’t buy a Dries Van Noten top in a size 14 then buy the Dries Van Noten scarf and keep the clothing as the backdrop. To me, that is what the woman in this photo is doing (although the dress is very beautiful) -she is making her look about print, color, accessories and exotic drama.

I used to live in Murry Hill , the Indian section of Manhattan, the woman there use a very similar method of color, wrapping and accessories and they often look amazing.

Thursday, May 11, 2006

Rebel Style by G. Bruce Boyer


So I just got my copy of Rebel Style by The Sartorialist contributor G. Bruce Boyer.

I’m a more image-driven person so these little books are just perfect for me-just enough text to inform me without putting me to sleep. I think Bruce does a great job setting the social context for the emergence of Rebel Style in the fifties.

I’m not sure it will stick but I think I learned something today.

Thursday, May 11, 2006

On The Street…….. White Top, New York

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

At The Pier – 3

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

On The Street…….. Buffy Birrittella, New York


This is for all the emails I get requesting images of women over “a certain age” that have mastered the concept of “personal style”.

Ok. it may help this this lady is Buffy Birrittella, Executive Vice President, Women?s Design and Advertising, Polo Ralph Lauren. She is an absolute icon within that company. My wife use to be a designer at Ralph and I always got a chuckle when she would say ,with true fear, that she was preparing for a “Buffy walk-through”. If you ever wonder why Ralph seems to always be so strong and consistently at the top of his game it is because he has made an art of surrounding himself with Style Masters like Buffy.

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

On The Street……..Mr. Wooster, New York

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

On The Street……..Black & Blue, New York

Tuesday, May 9, 2006

On The Street……..The Scot, New York

Tuesday, May 9, 2006

Richard Chai – In Studio

This question was submitted by Vicky Yang

VY: As one of several rising Asian-American designers in the industry today, how do you feel that your heritage has inspired you in your creative intellect?

RC: The influence my heritage has on my collection is in the pure/ minimal approach to design. It is also in the way I cut clothes in an unconventional way. At first glance, the clothes appear quite simple, but upon closer inspection one can see all the intricate details and construction lines.

Thanks Vicky, great question

Tuesday, May 9, 2006

At The Pier – 2

Tuesday, May 9, 2006

On The Street……..Sportswear Refined, New York

So my job of finding well dressed gentlemen will definitely become more challenging as men move into their summer wardrobe of tee shirts, shorts and flip flops.

Luckily some guys can do the look in a chic way. What really caught my eye was the subdued color combo of taupe colored knit against the pale blue shorts.

Tuesday, May 9, 2006

On The Street……..CDG & The Bike, New York

I guess it is bike day.

I have said before that finding a woman over a certain age that looks super stylish and will let you take her photograph is great but this lady was a goldmine.

CDG jacket, serious bike, and fashion-y pants she had tailormade for her, this lady knows how to put a look together and ,apparently, she can help you too. She is sending me information about her styling seminars she gives at locations around the city. When I get more info I will update.

Monday, May 8, 2006

On The Street……..Fat Bald Man, NYC

Shooting on the street means having to think fast on your feet.

So I see this guy racing down Fifth Ave and he turns the corner at Abercrombie, I get his attention and ask to take his photo for my fashion blog. Without a seconds hesitation his says to me in very serious Ital-English “Not me, I’m a bald fat man!!” I’m a very positive person, so the first thing out of my mouth was “No, your not…..uhm……so?

We stand there looking at each other for a moment and finally I say “But you look so Italian!” That got him.

What a perfect example of Neapolitan style – the right shoes, the right shirt, a great tie and a very nice Spring-ish shade of blue sportcoat. I asked where he got the jacket and with a mix of pride and nonchalance he says “I have my tailor in Naples do it for me.”

These are the kind of guys that inspire me and that I wanted to capture when I started The Sartorialist.

Monday, May 8, 2006

On The Street….Summer Blue Suit, New York

Monday, May 8, 2006

At The Pier – 1

Monday, May 8, 2006

On The Street……..Balenciaga Jeans, New York

Sunday, May 7, 2006

On The Street….Orchard Street, New York

Sunday, May 7, 2006

On The Street….Color Lesson #2, New York

Sunday, May 7, 2006

On The Street….Modern Kid, New York


Really, should a modern kid look any other way?

Saturday, May 6, 2006

On The Street…..8th Avenue, New York


You know New York is cool when even the background people look great.

Saturday, May 6, 2006

On The Street…..That Hair, New York

Friday, May 5, 2006

On The Street…..57th St, New York

Friday, May 5, 2006

School Fundraiser At A Brooklyn Park

Friday, May 5, 2006

On The Street…..Madison Ave, NYC

I love the 4-button DB suit with a ticket pocket but I love the small blue flower ,chosen to match his shirt and worn so dashingly in his lapel, even more.

I didn’t get the sense he was a head-of-state or even that he was rushing off to any place in particular but he was going to look his best wherever he went – if only for his own sense of pride and amusement.

Friday, May 5, 2006

On The Street…..Chelsea, NYC


I love the mix of references in this look
-Tiny, English School Boy navy blazer and crisp white shirt
-Exotic print high-waisted skirt
-All-American Converses with bare legs

This makes me think of what a Dries Van Noten secondary collection would like. With that hair, studious glasses and messenger bag draped across her shoulder can’t you just see her walking down Dries runway.

Thursday, May 4, 2006

On The Street…..Midtown, NYC

I love the super lean cut of the pants

Thursday, May 4, 2006

On The Street…..Williamsburg, Brooklyn


Listen, I’m not making these girls wear leggings – I can hear it now, I have given up my scarf fetish for a leggings fetish!

Thursday, May 4, 2006

On The Street…..Uptown, NYC


The shirt is great and the suit is nice (needs some cuff showing – ha! I beat you too it!) but to me this is all about the grooming.

The hair is perfect, teeth are perfect and I’m sure he has a killer wash/shave/moisturize regime.

This is why people say men age gracefully.

Thursday, May 4, 2006

How Do I Reconcile H&M?

A lot of the items I have really liked lately have been from H&M – like the puff-sleeve knit this young lady is wearing.

H&M is really on a roll but shopping in an H&M store is such a difficult experience. The few times I have braved my way in, I have had no sales help, the store is a mess and the music was way too loud. Maybe the store is messy because it is sooo busy and that is good for H&M but Old Navy (which I feel is a direct competitor based on price and store size) is almost always a joy to shop, very easy to get help and to find a size.

Is this just me? Maybe I’m too big on the shopping experience but I also don’t shop all the time. For those people that treat shopping like a sport, maybe H&M is the biggest playing-field with the toughest shopping competitors all looking for “the greatest deal.”

Is the shopping experience important to you or just the end result of what you buy?
Is the “experience” directly related to how much your spending?

Wednesday, May 3, 2006

On The Street…..Dots & Stripes & Circles, NYC

It is all about the graphic mix – dot scarf, stripe tank and circle necklace all in shades of blue and white.

Sorry guys – i like to start with a mens shot but I have had a tough time this week I’m shooting tomorrow morning so hopefully my luck will turn.

Wednesday, May 3, 2006

Odin


So I thought I would just make it Chai family week on The Sartorialist.

I didn’t realize that ,designer, Richard Chai and Odin co-owner Eddy Chai were brothers until Richard mentioned it during our conversation. I guess it makes sense, both have a great but unpretentious aesthetic and both are becoming very important figures in their respective fields.
If you haven’t yet checked out the new Odin store down at 199 Lafayette try to do it this weekend. The mix is great and they have a lot of great options for how to wear shorts and tees this summer and still look cool.

Wednesday, May 3, 2006

On The Street…..Grate Girl, NYC


I never get off the subway to shoot someone’s photo but for this girl I did.

I love how polished this look is, the only thing that was slightly better when I first saw her was that her jacket was buttoned which gave slightly more shape at the waist – actually I first thought she was wearing a skirt -how the sturdy wool jacket balanced the fluid movement of the skirt was just brilliant.

As polished as this look is, the best part is that the dress is H&M and the jacket is vintage. As much as I love “designer quality” I don’t think any amount of French seaming or high-twist wool or $30 per yard fabric could have made this look seem any more refined than it already is. Sure you could change a design detail (nip in the jacket, add a pocket or take away a pocket) but you wouldn’t have to change the price point to do that.

Often magazines do “The Look for Less” stories which ,to me, has the effect of saying – if you can’t afford Marni then settle for this H&M knockoff but I know a lot of women that would love to look this well put-together at any price.

Tuesday, May 2, 2006

On The Street…..American Classic, NYC

I’m always inspired (read – jealous) of how Michael Bastian can do that front-tuck without his shirts or sweaters getting too bloused out or it looking too studied. I’ve watched him do it and it takes him ,like, one second and it is always perfect.
I do take solace in my superior tie knots, though.

Tuesday, May 2, 2006

On The Street…..Summer Dress/Cover-up #3, NYC

If the last white dress/legging/white bra controversy got you -then this look is really going to send you over the edge.

Obviously she is wearing this (vintage?) dress as a cover-up, she was on her way into the park on a Sunday afternoon. What really throws this look into overdrive ,and not being just a typical sunbathing throw-on, is that the shoes match the onepiece(?) underneath.

Tuesday, May 2, 2006

Updating The Navy Blazer

Tuesday, May 2, 2006

On The Street…..Summer Dress #2, NYC

Monday, May 1, 2006

On The Street…..Midtown, NYC


Of course, I love the look but this photo is all about the crazy lighting in that spot, at that moment.

Monday, May 1, 2006

On The Street…..Summer Dress #1, NYC

Monday, May 1, 2006

Richard Chai – In Studio

I met Richard Chai the other day. He really pissed me off that he wasn’t doing his own collection when I had my showroom. He is just the type of designer that I love to work with – smart, talented, and able (and willing) to talk about subjects other than fashion. Actually, one of the first things we talked about is why he has never really been grouped with the Behnaz/Som/Lam clique, even though they all started about the same time and would hang next to each other in stores. We agreed that it is his very refined aesthetic smashed up against a strong downtown attitude that gives him a unique position in the New York young designer hierarchy. I thought the bike in the corner that he rides to work each day was so representative of the lack of preciousness about his work.

I described him as smart earlier, why do I say smart? He knew that I was there to talk about is work with the new Onward Kashiyama store/brand Nave. Well ,of course, I kept getting off-subject as we compared notes on similar experiences working with Kashiyama (I was there in the 90′s), the challenges of beginning a company, and growing up in New York but somehow he kept working Nave into his answers – smart.

Richard had to leave for Korea the morning after we met so I gave him an edited list of the questions that you ,the readers, emailed to me. As soon as he returns I will be posting his responses.

Monday, May 1, 2006

On The Street…..Brooklyn, NYC