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Sunday, April 30, 2006

Cesar Padilla of Cherry Boutique


What I really like about how Cesar Padilla of Cherry Boutique buys vintage, is that he does it with an eye to making the items relevant again. No 40′s music, no wishing for a bygone era to return, Cesar treats his treasures with a healthy amount of disrespect than strips away the preciousness and makes them feel like that could be an important part of your wardrobe again instead of “my gimmicky vintage top.”

Sunday, April 30, 2006

Visiting Neighbors Seniors Talent Show

Visiting Neighbors sponsored a Seniors Talent Show yesterday. The gentleman above sang a love song so heartfelt it was almost painful to watch.

Saturday, April 29, 2006

Jim Shay, Sales Director for Z Zegna

Saturday, April 29, 2006

On The Street…..Pink Shoes, West Village , NYC

Friday, April 28, 2006

The Benefit Of A Strong Shoulder


What struck me about the suit on this very nice gentleman ,visiting from New Orleans, was how well the roped shoulder on his jacket worked to give the impression of a more narrow waist. This gentleman really was as round as a ball but by buying a good suit (Isaia) in a sturdy fabric and spending the money to have it expertly altered he has succeeded in cutting a dashing figure.

Friday, April 28, 2006

On The Street……Ninth Ave , NYC

Friday, April 28, 2006

On The Street……..57th & 5th, NYC


When I go out shooting I never really know where I will end up, that is part of the fun.

Because of that I don’t “dress-up”, I think I look stylish but I might walk seven miles, in all kinds of weather, in all kinds of neighborhoods so blending in is more my game plan.

So I see this guy, ask to take his photo, he agrees, I shoot, we talk briefly, he walks away – then he comes back, shakes a finger at me and says “You should dress better.”, then walks away again

Friday, April 28, 2006

On The Street…..West Village , NYC

Friday, April 28, 2006

Novelist Jonathan Carroll Writes About The Sartorialist

The novelist Jonathan Carroll wrote a very kind and thoughtful post about The Sartorialist on his blog today

CarrollBlog 4.28

A fan of Simon Haden (maybe it was even Haden himself in disguise) sent a link to a website that made me smile. It’s called “The Sartorialist” and run by a guy who loves men’s, and to a lesser degree, women’s fashion. He goes around the streets of New York taking photos of well dressed people and posting them with short comments on his site. Besides being witty and insightful, what I like best is his obsession/passion for the subject. Whether it is postage stamps, armadillos, meerschaum pipes, or fashion, it’s always a happy moment to meet up with someone who’s obsessive in an original way about something. That’s one of the reasons why I chose to write about the very real Josef Kyselak in GLASS SOUP: I just loved the idea that someone could be obsessed with the usually mundane act of writing your name. What’s enjoyable too about The Sartorialist are the expressions on the faces of his subjects. They’re almost all smiling in happy, unposed ways. It’s obvious they’re delighted to have been stopped for this picture. Flattered that someone in the know, a stranger, said to them out of the blue you’re dressed wonderfully today. Can I take your picture to post on my website? There isn’t an ounce of smug in any of their expressions. In fact many, no matter how old or sophisticated they are, are smiling with real delight. They’re thrilled by this nice surprise and the expressions on their faces are an inch or two away from the joy of children.

Thursday, April 27, 2006

Barry Miguel of Z Zegna

Thursday, April 27, 2006

On The Street…..That Smile , NYC


This young lady has done a great job at creating a clean and feminine silhouette without pulling any attention away from that million dollar smile. Sometimes clothes should just be background.

Thursday, April 27, 2006

On The Street……Yes! The Skirts Of Spring , NYC

This is a vintage skirt worn high on the waist with a wide leather belt – she looked so great

Thursday, April 27, 2006

On The Street……The Modern Bogart, NYC


I can’t decide which I love more

- the pale yellow turtleneck with a DB suit
or
- the gloves
or
-the hat.

Wednesday, April 26, 2006

On The Street……True Elegance, NYC

Talk about Elegant.
What I really loved about this look was the mix of a very classic Chanel-ish core ( the jacket/blouse had a great peplum detail in the back) mixed with an almost edgy Comme/Yohji shawl.
The women I have seen “of a certain age” that dabble in Comme often go a bit overboard and the Chanels get a bit dowdy but this lady has done a great job adding a little edgy to her couture. Of course, I have no idea if these items are Chanel or Yohji or Zara but you get the idea.

Wednesday, April 26, 2006

On The Street……Polo Back, NYC

Don’t look for this in a Polo store near you. I shot this down the street from the Ralph Lauren design studio – I assume it is a tech sample. I use to know someone that had ,as part of their job, to come up with new pony/shirt color combos for RL polo shirts.

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

On The Street……Greyt, NYC


This is the second time on The Sartorialist for this young gentleman. You guys (guys being a non-gender-specific term) might remember this Sartorialist from the Ralph Lauren show photos. As this photo can attest he has transitioned to Spring beautifully.

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

On The Street……..Hickey Freeman Casual, NYC

Jay Morales of Hickey Freeman is making his second apperance on The Sartorialist. He reminded me that I shot him during The Collective, it must be nice to be so well put together so often.

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

On The Street…….Chloe Shoes, NYC

The shoes make her legs look great & visa versa?

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

On The Street……..Uptown Sartorialist

Ok, now I get it
Uptown – cool old guys in suits
Downtown – cool young guys in suits

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

Graduate Of The Carine Roitfeld School Of Sexy

I know so many girls that would kill to be able to pull off a Roitfelsesque type of sexy glamour

Monday, April 24, 2006

On The Street……..Domenico Vacca – Donna


I already knew that Domenico Vacca did a great job with men’s so I should not have been surprised when this Sartorialiste said she was wearing all Domenico Vacca.

Sunday, April 23, 2006

Trad or Thom Browne?

I knew I would capture an image like this sooner or later.

Ok Trads, you’re really closer to the Thom Browne aesthetic than you may want to admit.

Let review the elements
- Slim, shorter jacket
- At or above the ankle pant hem
- Plenty of shirt cuff showing
- Buttondown Oxford shirt
- Classic wingtips

Sunday, April 23, 2006

On The Street……..Fashion Insider?, NYC


So is this young lady a fashion insider?

Caffeine – check
Cigarette – check
Fabulous chunky knit layered over well-worn jean jacket – check and check

Saturday, April 22, 2006

On The Street……..A Sartorialist On Madison Ave.

Ok, now it is getting really cool when I stop someone on the street and they already know all about The Sartorialist! – It is just icing on the cake when they also look really stylish.

As the giant 650 in the background will tell most fashion insiders, Mike works at Ralph Lauren. I think it is such a testament to Ralph’s work that on the same day I shot Mike, I also shot a retired gentleman (I will post later in the week) in a twenty year old Ralph Lauren suit and both looked perfectly rigged for their age group.

Saturday, April 22, 2006

On The Street……..Looooong Jeans, NYC

It is hard to describe why some things are sexy. This long jeans over shoes look has a bondage-y, Japanese footwrapped kinda thing going on.

Friday, April 21, 2006

On The Street……..Outside Domenico Vacca


Notice the Spring-inspired flair of the pale green belt.

Friday, April 21, 2006

On The Street……..57th Street Girl. NYC

Thursday, April 20, 2006

Fantastic Man-gazine

I finally got my first issue of Fantastic Man,

At $20 a pop I just couldn’t pull the trigger on buying one myself but a friend , Cesar Padilla (owner of Cherry Vintage) who wrote a piece for the latest issue gave me a copy.

I have not made it all the way through but I just finished the cover story on Stefano Pilati of YSL and it was really great!

Written by the multi-talented Tim Blanks with photos by superstar photo team Inez and Vinoodh (I’m not going to try the last names!) i now have a new appreciation for Mr Pilati. I have always liked his work, especially men’s, but he always seemed a little stiff to me but the photos make him seem so much younger and more modern than I have ever seen him. I emailed Tim the tell him how much I liked the piece and he confided how intense the interview was – Tim has one of those happy faces that i guess people feel comfortable opening up to.

I hope as distribution increases, the price comes down but the more I pick up the magazine and find something new to love I think I will feel less hesitant to buy the next issue.

Thursday, April 20, 2006

Ask Richard Chai- Update

I’m getting a lot of great questions – thanks !!
Keep them coming


I’m still finalizing a date to interview one of New York’s most important designers but in the meantime ,this Friday, I am meeting with one of tomorrow’s most important designers – Richard Chai.

Along with the Proenza boys, Richard is one of the few young womenswear designers I’m really pulling for. He has a great background, an evolving aesthetic and has experienced the ups-and-downs that make a designers business stronger if it doesn’t kill it first.

Richard’s recent work with Onward Kashiyama has spawned a new store in Soho called Nave. The work and the store look really good. I use to work at Kashiyama years ago so I know to achieve this result must have been an epic struggle in its own right – I can’t wait to ask him about it – and tell him a few of my crazy Kashiyama stories! Remind me to tell you guys some of my crazy Kashiyama stories sometime!

Since I have such a tapped-in, style-savvy readership I wanted to give you guys a chance to ask Richard a few questions. Just email me your questions for him with “Richard Chai” in the subject line of the email and let me know how to credit you if I post your question.

Thanks, I think this could be fun.

Here is Richard Chai’s bio

Richard Chai, a New York native, began his career in fashion at an early age with an internship at Geoffrey Beene while still an undergraduate at Parsons School of Design. Upon his graduation from Parsons, Chai moved to Paris to continue his education at the Lissa School, during which he worked as a sketcher at Lanvin.

Immediately following his return to New York a year later, he became an assistant designer at Armani Exchange. He then joined the design team at Donna Karan as a designer for the DKNY and D collections. From 1998 to 2001, Chai held the position of Design Director for the Marc Jacobs? men?s and women?s collections as well as launching the Marc by Marc men?s collection. In September 2001, Chai was appointed Creative Design Director of all TSE brands, including TSE men?s, TSE women?s, and TSE Say. As a designer with a strong background in luxury goods, he was an invaluable asset to the continued growth of TSE worldwide. His appointment marked the first time in the company?s history that one person oversaw every line under the company name.

Through these experiences Richard has built a foundation of knowledge crucial to launching his own collection and after two years working at TSE, Chai decided he was ready to found his own company, which was established in the summer of 2004.

During New York Fashion in September of 2004, Chai launched his collection of women?s wear for spring 2005 in a formal runway presentation. His debut collection, which was sophisticated yet elegantly understated, reflects his aesthetic sensibility with clean structured lines and touches of classic craftsmanship, truly setting him apart from his contemporaries. Chai?s collections reflect the emphasis he places on the craft of making clothes, creating modern clothing by utilizing truly old world techniques such as hand stitching, bias tapes, and French seams. Chai prides himself on the fine detailed finishes he gives his clothing, creating precious yet wearable garments.

His debut collection for spring 2005 as well as his second collection for fall 2005, received an overwhelmingly positive response from both the press as well as major retailers. His collection is available exclusively at Barney?s New York as well as Lotte in Korea and Villa Moda in Kuwait.

Earlier this year, Richard Chai was a finalist for the Rising Star Award from the Fashion Group International which recognizes new fashion designers in a variety of categories, including women?s ready to wear. In addition, he was the recipient of the annual Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award 2005, which honors emerging new talent in fashion design.

Thursday, April 20, 2006

On The Street……..University Place, NYC

I love the pink knit when mixed with a tie and cargo pants.

Thursday, April 20, 2006

Sempre Napoli – Travel & Leisure – May

Guy Trebay did a great piece in the new Travel & Leisure titled Sempre Napoli . In addition to insightful descriptions of the duality of modern Naples, large sections of the text are devoted to the Sartorialists of Naples.

Thursday, April 20, 2006

Easter Parade, The Gentleman, New York 2006

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

120th Street Style, Harlem, NY

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Easter Parade, The Tin Man, New York 2006

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Easter Parade, The Perfect Cut, New York 2006

What a beautfully cut suit.

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Easter Parade, New York, 2006

As we have seen in the previous posts, the Easter Parade can be a great place for the “dramatic gesture” but there are also a few understated looks that are just as lovely.

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Sartorialist Of The Year 2006 – 2nd Nominee

Are we still making men to take this gentleman’s sartorial position twenty years from now?

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Easter In Harlem, New York 2006


So I see this lovely couple walking home from church on 128th St. and Fifth Ave. in Harlem. Mr. Gant is the Deacon Emeritus of his church, a title he proudly displays on his jacket.

I asked how long they lived in the neighborhood – like any long married couple they answered simultaneously – him “52 years!”, her “51 years!”. They spent the next few moments arguing the dates. He then turned to me and said that the neighborhood had always been nice, “People watch out for each other in our building-it’s a family building. When one of us gets sick, we do the best we can to care for that person.” Of everything he could have told me about living in Harlem for over fifty years, the first thing he mentioned was taking care of others.
Friends and family back in Indiana sometimes ask me how I can live in New York with so many people piled on top of each other. My answer? Neighbors like Mr. Gant.

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Easter Parade, Retro Modern, New York, 2006

If this is all vintage then it is done with the most modern take I have seen in a long time.

It love the textured sleeves peeking out from under the jacket.

I love the skirt and don’t get me going on the hat!

This was my favorite look of the day. Bravo!

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Easter Parade, The Boss, New York 2006

Can anyone spot the famous face in this picture?

Monday, April 17, 2006

Easter Parade, Top Hat

Monday, April 17, 2006

On The Street……..The Cardigans, NYC

The just-long-enough cardigan with the just-long-enough summer top.

Monday, April 17, 2006

Under The Radar – Lawrence Covell Turns 39!

Some stores seem to always fly just under the radar of the fashion press.

Everyone knows Louis Boston, Wilkes Bashford or Stanley Korshak – they are always tagged in “where to buy” sections of magazines and listed in ads by designers etc.

One store that I hardly ever see mentioned but ,in my opinion, is one of the most elegant shops in the country is Lawrence Covell – the Bergdorf Goodman of Denver Colorado. (I bet they get tired of hearing that)

Talk about a sophisticated and well balanced line-up

Mens: Borrelli, Lobb, Kiton, Barbera, Oxxford, Avon Celli – and for the more adventuresome Etro, Paul Smith and Margiela

Womens: Cucinelli, Dries Van Noten, Etro, Barbera, Paul Smith, Yohji, and Viktor&Rolf

When I was doing sales for different designers, Lawrence Covell was always the first shop I would call in Denver. They are the kind of store that doesn’t just “buy the big name designers”, they manage to keep the integrity of the designers vision while still merchandising their buy in a way that makes sense for the lifestyle of their customers. That truly is the art of buying.

A few years ago, after returning from a trip to Denver I was meeting with a Saks buyer who mentioned business had never been good in Denver because there just wasn’t a designer customer there. I gently corrected him by saying that there was a designer customer in Denver but they were are all shopping at Lawrence Covell. I he didn’t like that answer very much.

I just found out the store will celebrate its 39th anniversary at the end of the month!

Congratulations, Cathy and Lawrence

Thanks for giving designers a place to ship to other than New York, Texas and California.

Sunday, April 16, 2006

Easter Parade, New York 2006 – 1

So the Easter Parade was really great and I got a lot of great pictures both on Fifth Ave. and a few great shots in Harlem. I will be posting them over the next two days.

Sunday, April 16, 2006

Easter Parade, New York 2006 -2

Saturday, April 15, 2006

The Sartorialist “Must Have” List For Summer 2006


It is much more difficult to be a Sartorialist in the melting heat of summer than any other season of the year.

To beat the heat, I asked one of the coolest guys I know , Tommy Fazio – the new Fashion Director of Bergdorf Goodman Men’s, to put together a list of what I should be looking to buy for this summer.

1. The perfect 2-button cotton suit in tan. When well tailored, all men look Professional, Stylish and most of all handsome. This suit can take you thru all occasions in the spring/summer season.

2. The perfect wing-tip brown shoe. Nothing says style more than a well-polished wing tip. Worn with your suit pant just the right length, with or without socks, it looks stylish and modern.

3. Aviator sunglasses. All guys looks great in an aviator sunglasses. Oliver Peoples has the best new shape. Smaller in size and so chic.

4. Charvet custom-made shirt. Fits like a dream and shows a sense of style and confidence.

5. The Bergdorf Goodman rice stitch v-neck sweater in navy. The perfect weight for all seasons. The new basic for men.

Friday, April 14, 2006

On The Street……..Brooks Thomas of Bergdorf Goodman

Brooks Thomas is the -

V.P., Divisional Merchandise Manager, Mens Tailored Clothing, Sportswear, Furnishings, and Accessories, Bergdorf Goodman Men’s

- with a title like that his business card must be printed on 8 x 10 sheets of paper.

As a requirement for the position (I’m only slightly joking) Brooks has developed a great personal style. He has a way of wearing really traditional Italian tailored clothing in a sleek, almost New Yorkish way. Maybe it is the color palette? Anyway, I think he has done a great job at Bergdorf’s making old-school cool.

Friday, April 14, 2006

The Sartorialist in Playboy

I always promised my parents that if I was ever in Playboy I would make sure it was done with artistic merit!

My day has finally come.

The May issue of Playboy says about The Sartorialist -

“This amusing site written by a fashion-obsessed New Yorker is full of entertaining menswear arcana. While the Sartorialist is very serious about style, he is also playful in his posts”

I was actually going to post this a couple of days ago but every time I picked up the magazine to copy down the text I got distracted….uhm?

Thursday, April 13, 2006

On The Street……..Mixed Prints, NYC

Thursday, April 13, 2006

On The Street……Nolita, NYC

Thursday, April 13, 2006

Feeling Like Spring


I took this photo around this time of year, a few years ago. It always reminds me of Spring and the promise of carefree Summer fun.

With the bike in the background and the vintagey dress, it actually reminds me more of Paris than New York.

Thursday, April 13, 2006

On The Subway……..Spring Coat, NYC

Wednesday, April 12, 2006

On The Street…Last Scarves Of Spring 2006, NYC

Maybe I spoke to soon last time – the weather in NYC has been really up and down. I truly hope this is the last scarf shot of the Spring.

Wednesday, April 12, 2006

On The Street…Comme Des Flea Market, NYC

Wednesday, April 12, 2006

On The Street……..The New Preppy

Worn with equal amounts of irony and admiration – The 80′s Preppy will be big for Summer.

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

On The Street……..The Painter

I love the look – he looks like every “Soho Loft” mannequin Ralph Lauren has ever done. To me the entire key is the undersized Barbour jacket, very short on the hip and very slim in the arms. The cuff ,alone, on the pants is good but the leather binding makes the cuff outstanding.

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

On The Street……..Print Top

You gotta give Thom Browne credit for hiring some very attractive (and ,I’m sure, wildly brilliant!) people to help him build his brand.

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

On The Street…Me, Just Older

So I asked this guy if I could take his photo.

With a slightly confused look and a deep French accent this young gentleman offered me a cigarette.

I explained again that I thought his outfit looked great and that I would like to take his photo. This time he got it.

He looked at me, then looked at his own outfit and said “you like my outfit because we are dressed the same.”

I hadn’t noticed but he was right!

We both had on jeans, blue cardigan, white shirt, and old-school sneakers.

I only hope I can carry it off as well as he does when I’m his age – please, anyone that knows me don’t write in and say I’m already his age!!

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

My New Favorite Book – Henri Cartier-Bresson


I just bought the new book about Henri Cartier-Bresson portraits “An Inner Silence.”
Beautiful!
There are simply too any shots to list my favorites but the shot of Paul Leautaud is fantastic on so many levels.

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

On The Street…..Sleeve Detail, NYC


I love the sleeve detail on this coat and the wide silk ribbon of her bag that ,in this instance, works almost like a decorative sash.

Monday, April 10, 2006

On The Street…..Mario Testino’s Nephew?, NYC

What stopped me about this look ( besides my guess that he is some how related to Mario Testino) was not the velvet jacket, or the cowboy boots ( definitely not the boots) or even the neat neck scarf, it was the giant leather Michelob gym bag!

Monday, April 10, 2006

On The Street…..Riding Jeans?, Chelsea, NYC

I love the full thigh on the jeans, almost like denim riding pants.

Monday, April 10, 2006

In The Cafe


Monday, April 10, 2006

On The Street…..Vintage Biker


I was a little surprised by how many of the survey responders mentioned that they shop a lot on Ebay.
For a guy like this, Ebay has been a dream – he told me that the original ’20′s golf pants with original paper tags still attached were from Ebay. Tall socks (hard to find?, apparently) are also a treasured find on Ebay. I knew this guy was really living the dream when, as we spoke, he took out paper and rolled his own cigarette (cigarette?, yeah , pretty sure).
New York magazine is doing a piece on people who are really into vintage and this gentleman is in it – I can’t wait to read it. The only thing that is unsettling about the “vintage lovers” is that they are so often overboard – The music, the furniture, the clothes. For me, what would have made this outfit better, would be if he was listening to Kayne West on his tweed covered iPod.

Monday, April 10, 2006

On The Street……..Shawl? Soho, NYC

It is not really a poncho or a prayer shawl but it is pretty cool how she brings color and pattern into her monotone look by wearing this over her coat.

Monday, April 10, 2006

On The Street…..Chelsea, NYC

Sunday, April 9, 2006

Bergdorf Goodman Walk Through – 4

Brunello Cucinelli

Thom Browne

Sunday, April 9, 2006

On The Street…..26th Street, NYC

Sunday, April 9, 2006

On The Street…..Longboard?, NYC

Sunday, April 9, 2006

On The Street…Outside Industria Superstudio

Saturday, April 8, 2006

On The Street…..Tokyo To West Broadway, NYC

Saturday, April 8, 2006

Bergdorf Goodman Walk Through – 3

Friday, April 7, 2006

On The Street…..Domenico Vacca, NYC

Friday, April 7, 2006

Face Hunter – Paris


I don’t usually do link exchanges because I see so few blogs I like but Face Hunter I love! This guy is super tapped into the Paris party scene and captures the beautifully stylish people in a very Terry Richardson (PG version) kinda way.

Friday, April 7, 2006

Survey Results -Men’s

Thanks again to all who responded, and for all of your kind words of support.
Doing this exercise has made the blog and the people reading it seem so real.
It has also given me some great ideas for future stories.

Here are the mens results

56% of the total responders were men

A few observations – by age.

14 – 19 years old -14 % of total men responding
Favorite Brands:
Ralph Lauren! Marc Jacobs, Dior, a lot of the “fashion forward” designers like Van Noten and Simons

Favorite Magazine:
GQ, internet & blogs, Vogue Homme, smaller niche fashion magazines

Favorite Stores:
independent speciality stores, vintage, some department stores, no fashion chain stores

20-24 years old – 29% of total men responding
Favorite Brands:
Ralph Lauren, APC, various jeans labels- Nudie, and still a lot of Helmut Lang?
Fashion tribes, these guys seem to relate to a certain look and only that look i.e. fashion forward (Simons, Dior, Cloak), traditional ( J. Press, Brooks), Italian ( Borrelli, Kiton)

Favorite Magazine:
GQ, L’Uomo Vogue, V Man
Lifestyle mags – Rolling Stone, Artforum, Economist, Business magazines

Favorite Stores:
Independent speciality stores (Opening Ceremony, Odin), Bergdorf, Barney’s, fashion chain stores

25-29 years old – 18% of total men responding
Favorite Brands:
Beginning to mix trad with fashion forward more. A lot of Etro with J. Press with Nike with Marc Jacobs type of mix.

Favorite Magazine:
British GQ, GQ, V Man for fashion, a lot of niche small mags

Favorite Stores:
Again, independent speciality stores ,far and away, most important.
J. Crew mentioned a lot as the only fashion chain store.
Bergdorf, Barney’s and Holt Renfrew ( I guess I’m big in Canada) for larger stores.

30-39 years old – 25% of total men responding
Favorite Brands:
The appearance of tailored clothing – Borrelli, Kiton, Attolini Isaia and less fashion forward labels.
Again fashion tribes – if they like Neapolitan all the labels listed are Neapolitan, or if Savile Row, all Savile Row

Favorite Magazine:
Hardly any fashion magazines listed, some GQ, British GQ, Esquire, more magazines mentioned that relate to the responders personal interests.

Personally I won’t think men’s fashion magazines are doing a great job covering tailored clothing or giving good direction on how to make tailored clothing look fresh (yes, it can be done). Is that why guys in this age bracket and older are less interested in the fashion mags?

Favorite Stores:
The appearance of the department stores – Bergdorf, Barney’s, Neimans, Holt Renfrew.
I guess it makes sense because department stores can carry a much larger selection of tailored clothing.
Also a lot of designer-owned boutiques like Kiton and Borrelli and Ralph Lauren mentioned.

40-49+ years old – 14% of total men responding
Favorite Brands:
By this age it seems they have become a “suit guy” or a “fashion guy” or a “casual guy” and the brands they love follow their style sensibility. If they like Kiton suits they buy Kiton sportswear.

Favorite Magazine:
Cooking, travel, business, and interior design magazines, hardly any fashion (GQ, British GQ) but the passion for clothing seems to be growing at this age which is the reverse for women in the same age bracket.

Favorite Stores:
Stores that are also brands like Paul Stuart, Borrelli, Jay Kos.
Fewer department stores – as these guys order more MTM or custom are they counting on the personal service that smaller independent stores can offer?

Again, everyone is shopping online (but not much for expensive clothing) and it seems the guys are increasingly looking online for style advice from sites like The Sartorialist, Ask Andy, and Stye Forum (links to those sites are in the right-hand column)

Overall Ralph Lauren was the big winner in the mens survey. He seems equally viable for all age ranges and having so many divisions at so many different price-points he is able to crossover into many style sensibilities.

Friday, April 7, 2006

Old Man Style….Chinatown, NYC

Friday, April 7, 2006

On The Street…..Chinatown, NYC

Friday, April 7, 2006

Bergdorf Goodman Walk Through – 2

Thursday, April 6, 2006

The Sartorialist At The Met

Last night at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Robert Burke spoke at a presentation of the Costume Institute titled “Runway to Reality”. I was honored that Robert used quite a few of my photos to illustrate how the runway shows effect “real people”. I was also pleased no major museum benefactor pulled the money for a new wing because of my photos! Not that I know of anyway.

Robert Burke
Michael Bastian
Met Hotties – Marina Tatischeff-Schindler and Antonia Thompson

Thursday, April 6, 2006

Bergdorf Goodman Walk Through

Thursday, April 6, 2006

On The Street…..Rough Cut, NYC

Thursday, April 6, 2006

On The Street…..Marc Jacobs Employee Of The Month, NYC

Thursday, April 6, 2006

On The Street…South 7th Avenue, NYC

Wednesday, April 5, 2006

On The Street…..Broadway 2, NYC

Wednesday, April 5, 2006

Survey Results – Women’s

First of all, thanks again to all of you for your input.

I’m slightly surprised and proud that 45% percent of my audience is female and ,literally, from all around the world. (Except Montana?)

A few observations – by age.

14 – 19 years old – 17% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
Marc by Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Stella McCartney, American Apparel

Favorite Magazine:
Vogue, Nylon, i-D, Paris Vogue

Favorite Stores:
Vintage, American Apparel, H&M, department stores
Do the department stores act as an early fashion school or museum?
One place to see a lot of brands at different price points and learn the scope of the fashion landscape?).
No one mentioned Gap.

20-24 years old – 33% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
Marc Jacobs, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Miu Miu, Chloe, APC

Favorite Magazine:
Vogue, Paris Vogue, Italian Vogue, Vanity Fair, Nylon, Numero, i-D

Favorite Stores:
Independent boutiques, designer-owned boutiques, vintage, fashion chains (J. Crew, Club Monaco, Banana Republic)

25-29 years old – 21% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
Marc Jacobs, Chloe, Lanvin, Marni, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Chanel, YSL, Burberry
No Dolce& Gabbana – I knew I liked you people!

Favorite Magazine:
Vogue, Paris Vogue, Italian Vogue, foreign publications of Elle, W, Lucky, GQ?

Favorite Stores:
Independent boutiques, designer-owned boutiques, vintage, fashion chains ( J. Crew, Club Monaco, Banana Republic)

30-39 years old – 19% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
Big on APC, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Marni, Dries Van Noten, smaller lesser known designer labels
Beginning to assert a more personal style?
Is APC the basic items that are used to highlight the more dramatic items from Marni, Jacobs, Prada, etc?

Favorite Magazine:
Vogue, interior design magazines, cooking magazines, Teen Vogue?

Favorite Stores:
No clear cut favorite stores, no department stores, even fewer responses to this question than the younger age groups

40-49+ years old – 10% of total women responding
Favorite Brands:
No clear-cut favorite, at this age are the women less influenced by designer direction and beginning to refine a more personal style?
The women that did have designer favorites tended toward to more avant-garde like Comme Des Garcon and Yohji

Favorite Magazine:
Several ” I have given up all my subscriptions”, again- are these women’s more focused on creating their own style?

Favorite Stores:
All over the place – designer, vintage, department, discount, and chain stores.
Are the demands of family life more important than chasing a designer lifestyle?
I think maybe these women have developed a style and are less worried about where they buy the clothes that create this style.

Finally, everyone shops online but not usually for expensive clothes, more books, movie, and fashion chain stores like J. Crew.

Again thanks everyone,
Mens on Friday, by just overviewing I think we will see some interesting comparisons – especially 40+ men vs. 40+ women.

Now I’m off to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Tonight Robert Burke is participating in a discussion on how the runway shows effect what people really wear. He is using some of my photographs to illustrate his points! I never thought I would have something, anything on a wall at The Met!

Wednesday, April 5, 2006

On The Street…White Coat Over Leather Sleeves

I wish she would not have put her hands in her pockets- the best part was the leather sleeves under the vintage(?) white jacket.

Wednesday, April 5, 2006

On The Street…..Broadway, NYC

Wednesday, April 5, 2006

Survey Update!

Thank you all so much, over 350 responses!

I’m still reviewing them but I have already made , in my opinion, some interesting observations.

I will post them, ladies first – of course, later today.

Hint – woman are about 45% of the audience !
How the answers break down by age is pretty interesting.

Wednesday, April 5, 2006

On The Street…Nolita, New York

Tuesday, April 4, 2006

On The Street…The Younger Suit

Tuesday, April 4, 2006

On The Street…Red & Blue

Tuesday, April 4, 2006

On The Street…A Real Flea Market Find

I asked this young man what type of items he liked to buy when he visits the flea market. ” When you’ve been coming here as long as I have, you develop a taste for everything” he said. Bravo!

Take special note of the pink check shirt with pink and white stripe ribbon belt

Tuesday, April 4, 2006

The Sartorialist Wants To Know More About You

UPDATE – Thanks to everyone who has responded – I never would have guessed so many of my readers would list The Economist as one of their favorite magazines, J. Crew is getting big play ( I should push harder to interview Mickey) , I’ve got a great range of ages from 14 – 60, and a great following between both men and women.

Thanks again – and if you haven’t replied yet, I would love to hear from you.

I’m so happy to have built a really great and diverse audience ,so quickly, for The Sartorialist. I have already received a lot of emails of support (which means a lot to me) but if you get a chance I would love to get an email to learn more about my readers.

If you could answer the questions ( as many as you want) below and include the corresponding question number that would be a great help.

1. Age
2. Gender
3. City & State
4. Profession
5. Favorite fashion brands
6. Favorite magazines
7. Favorite stores
8. Do you shop online?

Tuesday, April 4, 2006

On The Street…All About The Hair

Monday, April 3, 2006

On The Street…Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein

Monday, April 3, 2006

On The Street…Some Kind Of Wonderful

I have a hard time trying to find the words to say how much I love her look.

Color, pattern, texture, old and new – I love the men’s shirt with the dress and the patterned jacket.

This is how you “look young” without dressing young.

Sunday, April 2, 2006

On The Street…Madison Ave., New York

Sunday, April 2, 2006

On The Street…Here Comes Spring!

Sunday, April 2, 2006

Soccer In The Central Park Dustbowl

Sunday, April 2, 2006

On The Street…The Mohawk

Sunday, April 2, 2006

On The Street…Union Square, New York

Could the brown knit on the right be more incredible?

Sunday, April 2, 2006

On The Street…Blue Cape, Washington Square, New York

Saturday, April 1, 2006

Alan Flusser On Thom Browne

New York is at the beginning of a menswear revival.
Michael Bastian, Cloak, Barker Black are creating collections with a level of sophistication we have not seen here in years.
Thom Browne is the lighting rod of this group. His designs are based on the classic work of the Brooks Brothers/ JFK 60?s, which I know you are a big fan of, so what is your take on Thom Browne?

?Those are the most irresponsible clothes I?ve ever seen in my 30 years in fashion.
To charge that much money for a coat that is deliberately short??the whole thing is like, childlike. I understand the sensibility; believe me I understand, it but if you want to sell a customer that, that to me is? I?m sure the allure is that is ?new classics? but that is as ?fashiony? as Dolce & Gabbana.?

But don?t you think that is the customer who is buying it.
?As long as people understand that – it’s ok. As long as they understand it is of limited longevity, that is ok but I don?t think they sell it like that. Thom Browne doesn?t wear like that. I think it is irresponsible – if I was Bergdorf I would be out of my mind.?

Saturday, April 1, 2006

On The Street…White Trench, Soho