Archives

Friday, March 31, 2006

On The Street…Casual Friday

A pocket square can add that little bit of refinement to casual Friday

Friday, March 31, 2006

On The Street…Stripe Right, Soho

Thursday, March 30, 2006

On The Street… Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler

Thursday, March 30, 2006

On The Street…Outside Marni, Soho

Thursday, March 30, 2006

The Sartorialist Profiled In Focus Magazine


So I’m excited, Focus (the Newsweek of Germany) ran a profile on The Sartorialist this weeks. Below I have translated and paraphrased a few of the questions and answers. It seems odd to translate something that was said in English to German and then from German back to English, if the interview sounds odd, I’m blaming it on that.

Focus: The Fashion Blog “The Sartorialist” has grown quickly in the past half year to 110,000 visitors per month. What is the secret to your success?

The Sartorialist: I made The Sartorialist because I kept seeing guys on the streets of New York or that worked in the fashion industry that I thought were just as fashionable as the models I would see in a GQ photo shoot

F: What is a Sartorialist?
S: A gentleman that has developed a style that helps express his personality.

F: How did you become one?
S: My style icon was Giorgio Armani growning up. In college I majored in Costume Construction and I did marketing for Valentino. I also owned a showroom that promoted young designers like Peter Som.

F: So what is personal style?
S: I like to mix modern and classic items, however I don’t like items that are to precious.

F: What rules do you follow and which do you break?
S: i don’t worry about the rules.

F: Which stores do you like?
S: 10 Corso Como in Milano, Bergdorf Goodman and the Apple Computer store in New York

Wednesday, March 29, 2006

On The Street…Love The Mix, Soho, New York

Wednesday, March 29, 2006

Meatpacking District, West Village, New York

This photo was taken at one of the last remaining meatpacking businesses in the Meatpacking District. What I like about the photo is that about two hundred yards to the right are the posh boutiques of Jeffrey, McQueen, and McCartney.

Wednesday, March 29, 2006

On The Street…Nolita, New York

People tell me I have an “open face”, what ever that means. Maybe it is what I see in this young lady, her relaxed and confident style really seems to highlight what appears to be a very pleasant nature.

Wednesday, March 29, 2006

Duncan Quinn

I did a preview of Duncan Qunn’s collection for Fall 2006. I wanted to take a few shots but he asked if I could wait – he didn’t want anyone to knock-off his idea for shirts and ties. Usually when someone says that it is rarely an idea that anyone would want anyway but I give Duncan credit the idea is pretty cool.

Overall the collection is a nice step forward, especially in the color palette which is slightly darker and a little more sinister. It will probably give his established customer a reason to update their wardrobe and a reason for new customers to give him a closer look.

Wednesday, March 29, 2006

On The Street…Soho Couple, New York

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

On The Street……..19th St., NYC

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

On The Street……..39th St. Flea Market, NYC

It is all about the little details – suspenders, leg-warmers worn low, and old school sneakers.

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

On The Street……..Spring Street, NYC

I love the hair and the nonchalant way she wears the fur. has there ever been an indie fur designer?

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

On The Street……..At The Flea Market, Chelsea, NYC

The colorful scarves of Spring.

Monday, March 27, 2006

On The Street………Role Model For The Young Sartorialist

This kid looks like he just stepped off the Marc Jacobs runway – but he did it all vintage and second-hand. Bravo!

Monday, March 27, 2006

Charvet’s Jean-Claude Colban Personal Appearance At Bergdorf Goodman

Last Friday night I was lucky enough to attend an intimate dinner for Charvet’s Jean-Claude Colban that was hosted by the super-fabulous Michael Bastian and the equal fab Margaret Spaniolo , Senior VP, GMM of Bergdorf Goodman. I had a chance to sit next to Jean-Claude and considering that his family has owned Charvet for years and he is full of great stories, we talked for hours and fashion never came up – that is really weird for me! We talked about the internet ( I’m humbled to say he is a big fan of The Sartorialist), food, travel, food, books, food, and kids, a lot about kids and food.

I always expect people from really old companies to be a little out of touch with modern culture but I think a reason Charvet stays relevant is because Jean-Claude is so interested in what is modern. He told me about using one of his kids amime sketches as an inspiration for a Charvet tie pattern -to me, that’s pretty cool.

Jean-Claude Colban giving a seminar on how to fold a seven-fold tie.


Margaret Spaniolo of Bergdorf giving the seven-fold a try.

The art installation outside the Charvet shop at Bergdorf

The adorable labels of the adorable children’s Charvet shirts.

Every department needs a character

Monday, March 27, 2006

On The Street………Greene Street, NYC

Sunday, March 26, 2006

David at Duncan Quinn

David works at Duncan Quinn, which makes Duncan pretty lucky.

David is really passionate about clothes and style. When I stop by the shop he always takes such pride in pointing out the new stock, not so much as a sales thing but just to talk about what they are doing and what is coming up. Enthusiasm is such an important part of being a salesman, actually the title “salesman” doesn’t seem to fit David. He is more like a guy that would be great fun to go shopping with but he can only do it at Duncan Quinn.

David’s new fascination is eveningwear during the day. It might not work for everyone (or anyone else) but he is a young guy in the City, works in the shop all day and then goes out all night. Nice life if you can get it.

Sunday, March 26, 2006

On The Street………So Refined

Saturday, March 25, 2006

A Conversation With Alan Flusser

I’m always very interested in how people with great style first developed their style. I knew that Alan Flusser, author, designer, Sartorialist, had dedicated his first book to his father so when I met him the other day the first thing we talked about was what type of sartorial influence his father had on him.

“He was very interested in clothes and had very good taste, very good, I didn?t really realize how good until I got involved in the industry.”

“He would wear a black cashmere sport jacket, grey flannel pants, white Brooks Brothers button-down shirt, grey lile socks with garters, black tassel alligator loafers, white handkerchief, club tie – black and white and yellow with a club figure, and a white ground with gold and black tattersall vest ? if you can imagine all that, very classy but if I ever saw someone wearing that today I would fall over.”

“From my background he was clearly the best-dressed man around and he thought Fred Astaire was the be all and end all. He was a Brooks Brothers aficionado and a Fred Astaire fan, so to have Brooks Brothers and Fred Astaire as your references, at least initially to look at, they were the right references.”

Saturday, March 25, 2006

On The Street..Grey Jeans

So I can’t decide what is more adorable, the grey jeans with matching pale grey short boots or the dog peeking out of her black bag.

Friday, March 24, 2006

On The Street..Hard-Ass Pink

Isn’t it funny how something as innocent as miss buttoning a jacket can make a look with so much pink seem so jarring and almost aggressive. I don’t think he meant to miss button but I don’t think he really cared if he did. Bravo!

Friday, March 24, 2006

On The Street..Back Interest

From the front the look is nice but all the real fashion detailing is in the back.
-the stitched down pleating on the the skirt of the coat
-red soled shoes, which can really only be seen from the back

Friday, March 24, 2006

How Much Cuff?

I think we are all pretty much in agreement on how much shirt cuff to show under a jacket but ,as seen on this blog, the amount of jean cuff to show is still widely variable.

The amount shown here seems to work for me.

Friday, March 24, 2006

On The Street… High Collar Coat

Friday, March 24, 2006

Home-made Beauty – I Mean The Scarf

Thursday, March 23, 2006

A Coat That Frames The Face

If you don’t want to wear a scarf (personally, I can’t imagine it) then a coat that frames the face is a great alternative.

Thursday, March 23, 2006

On The Street… 9th Ave. , NYC

Thursday, March 23, 2006

Jim Smiley Vintage Clothing Boutique

The first time I went into Jim Smiley’s Vintage Boutique I started flipping through a rack of beautiful 50′s ball gowns. From a nearby desk I heard a polite voice say “please handle the dresses by the hanger”. I guess I heard what he said but it didn’t really sink in so I kept flipping. A moment later a gentleman (Jim Smiley) came over and explained that the dresses were very fragile and he would appreciate if I handled the dresses by the hanger. Of course I was completely embarrassed and a little put-off but I quickly realized that he wasn’t saying this to be pretentious or precious but because he truly respected and cared for his vintage collection.

The more I thought about this later the more I realized what a breathe of fresh air Jim brings to retail. When was the last time you were in Saks and you got the feeling the salesperson really respected the work that went into making the piece and its ultimate historical importance. It sounds weird, but tomorrows fashion history books will be filled with the work of todays Prada and Armani.

Though Jim’s work must be difficult, I think it must also be a bit romantic – hunting through musty old attics for forgotten couture, hearing the stories about the people that owned the items originally and then ( hopefully) selling them to people that will care for them into the future.

Jim specializes in women’s but is growing his mens offering (the cufflinks are a sight). Of course not all the items are hands off, so If you are in or plan to visit New York and love high-quality vintage I recommend a visit.

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

Nana Boateng

I try to make this blog more about style than fashion. Nana Boateng is a fashion designer with a very well developed style. I cannot really speak about his designs because I haven’t seen any but when I met him the other day he just struck me as a guy that loved life and used his clothing as a way of expressing that joy. The clothes he is wearing in the picture above real capture the bold, vibrancy of his personality.

Nana spent his early years in Ghana but grew up all around the world (Rome, London, New York) and has such an honesty and refreshing enthusiasms for being in America and beginning his career in fashion. I asked him if his cousin ,Oswald Boateng, had been a big influence on him growing up. Surprisingly, Nana said his biggest sartorial influence was his uncle. He remembers his uncle’s collection of exotic fragrances, how he had his shoes all made in Germany, and when it rained his uncle would wrap his shoes and walk barefoot through the streets of North London.

Isn’t funny the little things we remember from childhood that end up having a huge influence on our lives?

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

In Store….Brunello Cucinelli, NYC, Spring 2006 -2

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

On The Step…….Great Coat

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

In Store….Brunello Cucinelli, NYC, Spring 2006

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

On The Street…Meatpacking District

So I cannot decide about the bag – it is what caught my eye but….

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

On The Street…Mr. Wilcox of Lord Willy’s, Nolita

One of the smartest strategies that Mr. Wilcox ,owner of Lord Willy’s, has implemented since opening his Nolita shop is using “vintage” fabrics for their tailored jackets.

The “vintage” fabrics ,like the hopsack jacket Mr. Wilcox is wearing, usually only allows for a limited production run (sometimes less than 10 jackets are made).

This really only works for a company with their own retail outlets but it does offer the potential for a whimsical variety of color, patterns and fabrications which seems to be the whole idea behind Lord Willy’s anyway.

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

Sweet

Monday, March 20, 2006

On The Street….Ralph Lauren Fashion Show

I keep going back to this photo.
I didn’t post it before because his eyes are shut but I still love the look.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Summer On Coney Island Boardwalk

Monday, March 20, 2006

Cute, Just That Simple

Monday, March 20, 2006

Goddbye Scarf Season

As most of you have pointed out – I have a fondness for scarves. As it slowly begins to warm up here in New York, I sadly recognize that my winter fling with with scarf is almost over for another 6 months.

With that said, I think this gentleman does a great job transitioning into the colors of Spring while still protecting against the chill of Mid-March.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Helmut Lang Sold To Link-Theory

Helmut Land has been sold to Link Theory which “has ambitious plans to revive the label on the contemporary level” WWD reports today. A designer for the label has not been named.

Helmut Lang at contemporary price points? That is exactly what we don’t need.

Apparently, Link Theory, which owns the Theory business in Japan, bought the trademark from Prada and plans to use the ” incredible heritage” of the brand to reshape the collection for the contemporary market. Rumor has it that Alexandre Plokhov, of Cloak, could be the new designer.

Sorry, but this sounds like such a bait and switch to me. Like Helmut Lang Lite

A big part of Helmut’s genius was mixing incredible luxurious fabrics like cashmere with utilitarian fabrics like denim, moleskin, or corduroy. This simple cannot be done ,in a real way( if for no other reason than price points), in contemporary departments of department stores or in stores that specialize in contemporary collections.

Recent revivals like Rochas, Lanvin, or even Jil Sander ,at least, kept the label at a designer price point. If the Theory guys see an opportunity at contemporary with a designer like Plokhov then just let him do his thing, don’t try to pass it off as Helmut-inspired.

If Helmut ,himself, comes back, can I ever look at the new collection without wondering what could have been included if he were allowed to work at a higher price point?

The only Helmut-ish items that can be reshaped at that price point are very basic, isn’t APC already doing it anyway?

Monday, March 20, 2006

On The Street….Great Bag, New York

Sunday, March 19, 2006

The New York Eccentrics

Sunday, March 19, 2006

On The Street….Short Sleeve Coat, Westside, NYC

Sunday, March 19, 2006

Trouble Loading Photos

Sorry, but for some reason I am having trouble loading photos right now.

I will try again around 1pm New York time and again at 6pm New York time.

If you haven’t checked the archives (righthand column) it might be a great time to check out The Sartorialist from day one.

Thanks again to everyone who has supported The Sartorialist

Saturday, March 18, 2006

Breaking The Rules


A lot of guys I know say they don’t pay attention to “the rules” of mens fashion.

Sometimes that is a good thing and sometimes it is not.

When I ran into Giuseppe de Corato of Luigi Borrelli the other day I asked to take his photo and he kindly accepted. After a few shots I realized his navy blazer wasn’t buttoned. Knowing that one of the “rules” of menswear is to always have your jacket buttoned while standing, I mentioned he might want to button-up. He buttoned the jacket and I took a few more shots.

When I reviewed the shots, the ones with his jacket unbuttoned looked so much more natural and so much more like him and his style. The ones with the jacket buttoned felt forced, like a kid going to Sunday School.

I think this is a great example of how a healthy disrespect for “the rules” really works.

Saturday, March 18, 2006

Brutal Beauty

Friday, March 17, 2006

Old Man Style….60th St. , NYC

Friday, March 17, 2006

Vogue Italia

Why is Vogue Italia so good?

The mix, the mix, the mix!

I just picked up the March issue and I can’t get over the quality and diversity of the photography and styling. In a very natural and organic way there is something for everyone, it doesn’t feel like any story is forced or done to appease a certain advertiser or audience segment.

Steven Meisel, Bruce Weber, Paolo Roversi, Glen Luchford (just to name a few) -each has a highly evolved style and a certain style of fashion that is best captured by that style -when you mix their work with the incredible archival and vintage photographs used to evoke a mood or source of inspiration, Vogue Italia has become the only magazine I can never bring myself to throw out.

So many “advanced” fashion magazine shoot almost exclusively in a hard-edged, aggressive manner and the mainstream magazines are often so sappy. Vogue Italia ,and for that matter L’Uomo Vogue, have struck a perfect balance of artistry and true fashion direction and inspiration. As a result, Franca Sozzani has built a level of respect for Vogue Italia ,within the industry, that I haven’t seen since Harpers Bazaar of the mid 90′s.

So who gives Vogue Italia the biggest challenge?

Paris Vogue? W? Self Service? i-D? 10? V?

Friday, March 17, 2006

In Store….Kiton, NYC, Spring 2006 – 3

Friday, March 17, 2006

On The Street….Winter Ice White

There is something about her pale, pale skin and the ice white dress in the dead of winter – the last fashion taboo – now, more visually shocking than Goth but visually just as morbidly beautiful.

Friday, March 17, 2006

On The Street…Madison Ave., NYC

Friday, March 17, 2006

In Store….Kiton, NYC, Spring 2006 – 2

Friday, March 17, 2006

On The Street…. Eighth Avenue, New York

New Yorkers like to blend into the scenery.

Thursday, March 16, 2006

On The Street… Nana Boateng And Mory Kaba


The thing that this photo doesn’t capture is just how cool the shoes were that Nana was wearing.

They had the shape and detail of a proper wingtip crossed with a white leather trainer with velcro closure. Very cool, very trad/punk.

Thursday, March 16, 2006

On The Street…Bleeker St. In Full Bloom, NYC

Thursday, March 16, 2006

In Store….Kiton, NYC, Spring 2006

Thursday, March 16, 2006

On The Street…Slim Trench, NYC

Thursday, March 16, 2006

On The Street…Spring On Prince, NYC

Thursday, March 16, 2006

On The Street…The Downtown Proportion , NYC

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

Oliver Gerona – Domenico Vacca, Fifth Ave., New York

I think the color of the pale pink shirt with the navy tie and grey suit is just perfect.

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

The State Of The Amercian Men’s Fashion Magazine

For the second straight season, the most beautiful, well styled, and inspiring men’s fashion editorial has come from the Bergdorf Goodman Magazine/Catalog. The “Viet Sojourn” story is stunning,
What the magazine does very well is mix very refined casualwear and the highest level of OTR clothing in the same story and treat both with an equal level of respect and sophistication. Best pages 13, 37, 56

What does it say about American men’s fashion coverage when the second (and much anticipated) issue of Men’s Vogue completely tanks and the big April issue of GQ (save Adriana Lima) treats us to an absolutely yawn-filled overview of khakis and grey suits. (wasn’t the grey suit the big message in Men’s Vogue also?).

The men’s stores in New York are brimming with color – there is such as disconnect between what is available for men to buy and what the magazines are promoting.

For the first time I can remember, the stores are more exciting and inspirational than the magazines.

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

On The Street…Sleeveless Trench, NYC

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

In Store….Domenico Vacca, NYC, Spring 2006 -II

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

On The Street…Fifth Ave. , NYC

Tuesday, March 14, 2006

In Store….Domenico Vacca, NYC, Spring 2006

Tuesday, March 14, 2006

On The Street…58th Street, NYC

Tuesday, March 14, 2006

On The Street…Madison Ave., NYC

Bow-tied with flair!

Tuesday, March 14, 2006

Socks & Sandals, part 2

This is twice that the socks and sandals were the most interesting part of the look. Come on ladies, lets think a little above the belt!

Monday, March 13, 2006

On The Street…Broome Street

When I asked this gentleman to take his photo, I think his teenage daughter was going to fall over in embarrassment. It is almost unimaginable to a teenage girl that anyone could be as cool as her.

1 point for the Sartorialists!

Monday, March 13, 2006

On The Street…Elizabeth Girls

Monday, March 13, 2006

Lazy Sunday Afternoon….Derrick Miller of Barker Black With Girlfriend

Monday, March 13, 2006

Christian Lacroix , Fall 2006

Christian Lacroix has such great personal style, I just wish he could capture his style quirkiness in his men’s collection.

Couldn’t he be the Parisian Etro?

After seeing Fall 2006, maybe he is getting close.

Monday, March 13, 2006

On The Street…Noho Boho

Sunday, March 12, 2006

On The Street……Cipriani Downtown, NYC

Sunday, March 12, 2006

On The Street……Nolita Couple, NYC

I love how well they coordinate and how uniquely they mix patterns and colors

Sunday, March 12, 2006

In Store….Borrelli, NYC, Spring 2006

Sunday, March 12, 2006

On The Street……9th Ave. Redhead


Each item she is wearing does not necessarily have to be expensive but they have been perfectly chosen to highlight her lovely red hair.

Sunday, March 12, 2006

On The Street……Mott St. , NYC

Sunday, March 12, 2006

Style Profile…..Pino Vaghi, Luigi Borrelli

I’ve known Pino Vaghi, General Manager of Luigi Borrelli, for a while and I have always been impressed with his humor and style. Come to think of it, that is also the way I would describe Cary Grant.

If business success is all about the people, then Luigi Borrelli LLC is building for big profits. Borrelli is aggressively expanding it product offerings (sportswear, outerwear) and with a group of Sartorialists like Pino, Giuseppe de Corato and David Anicich heading up the U.S. efforts then I clearly imagine that I will soon be wearing Borrelli every hour of the day.

Pino recently answered a few questions about his personal style for The Sartorialist.

I only buy ____ in Europe.
Shoes

I only buy ________ in America.
Ralph Lauren

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist?s outfit?
The personal “quirk”

I skimp when buying?
Underwear

Favorite store?
ABC & Borrelli Boutique

Style icon?
Roger Moore

Favorite ?fashiony? movie?
?The Persuaders” & ?The Avengers” on BBC America

You feel best wearing?
A pareo on the beach

Personal Style quirk?
Red jeans

Most underrated item in menswear?
Scarf

Most stylish city?
Barcelona

Never caught wearing?
High heels?..just joking!

Shine your own shoes?
No

Favorite fashion magazine?
Arena

Favorite other magazine?
Adbuster

Cologne, skincare?
Old Spice

Saturday, March 11, 2006

On The Street…..Bleecker Street, New York

Saturday, March 11, 2006

That ’80′s Couple

Saturday, March 11, 2006

The Young Sartorialist – Nolita

Saturday, March 11, 2006

Sartorialist Of The Year 2006 – 1st Nominee

I just telling you now, I’m not sure if Sartorialist Of The Year will ever be won by anyone under 70 years old. I mean, how can anyone under that age attain the kind of panache to compete with a guy like this.


Click on photo to enlarge image

Friday, March 10, 2006

Casual Dress Friday

Anyone that knows me, knows that this guy is stealing my look!

Friday, March 10, 2006

Laura Ferrara. Stylist

Friday, March 10, 2006

On The Street…..Skater on 9th Ave.

Friday, March 10, 2006

Style Profile…..Mile Djuric, Luigi Borrelli

I keep saying that I see Borrelli as more than just a high-quality garment, it has a look and fit that speaks to the spirit of a young Sartorialist. Mile Djuric is the perfect example of how a young man can wear Borrelli and still look his age.

Best Sartorial advice from your Dad?
Make sure the shirt collar is taller then you jacket?s collar

I only buy ________ in Europe.
Shoes

I only buy _______ in America.
Sportswear

You build your daily look around your?
Shoes

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist?s outfit?
Chest fit/ armhole

I splurge when buying.
Cashmere sweaters

I always break this fashion rule.
I cuff every pant I have (except for jeans)

I never break this fashion rule.
NEVER wore white socks!!!

Favorite store?
There are a lot but I would have to say Bergdorf has everything I need

Style icon?
Raf Simons for edgy/ Sean Connery classic(only Bond era)

Worst fashion mistake?
Trying to hard to be tone on tone

Most cherished item?
Cufflinks

Favorite ?fashiony? movie?
Collateral (love the grey suit and crispy white shirt)

Guilty pleasure?
Crepes w/Nutela – made by my dad only

Describe your personal style?
Fitted, classic Italian w/lots of colors

You feel best wearing?
Borrelli !!!!!

Personal Style quirk?
Tie with no shirt

Dress to impress who?
Myself

Most overrated item in menswear?
Ties

Most underrated item in menswear?
Cufflinks

Most stylish city?
Milan

Never caught wearing?
Sweats

When I was high school I wore?
A lot of jeans

Shine your own shoes?
Yes

Hobby? dogs

Sports?
Soccer or basketball

Favorite fashion magazine?
Italian Vogue

Favorite other magazine?
National Geographic Explorer

Cologne, skincare?
Etro?s lavender

I always dress my best for?.?
My wife

Friday, March 10, 2006

On The Street…Wooster Street, New York

Click on photo to enlarge image

Thursday, March 9, 2006

On The Street….That Hat, Chinatown, NYC

Thursday, March 9, 2006

On The Street….Washington Square Park, New York

Thursday, March 9, 2006

On The Street…Jennifer Hitzges, Super Stylist, Super Human

Thursday, March 9, 2006

On The Street…. Bryant Park, New York

Thursday, March 9, 2006

David Anicich of Luigi Borrelli

Thursday, March 9, 2006

Backstage Hair

Wednesday, March 8, 2006

The Unsung Hereos – Leo Dell’Orco – Creative Director Men’s, Giorgio Armani


Leo Dell’Orco has worked with Giorgio Armani as his menswear creative director for years and years. He was with Armani during all his most important collections and, by connection, one of the designers that most directly affected the way millions of men have dressed over the past twenty years.

Leo is one of those unsung heroes that will never be written up in the fashion history books but his consistent input undoubtly helped make Armani who he is today. I have to admit I was more nervous meeting Leo than I have been meeting almost any other designer I have met in the last five or six years; maybe it was because I was so surprised to see him walking down Elizabeth street in Nolita with several of his friends.

When you know about Leo and how incredibly stylish and cool he is, it makes the discussion of Armani’s retirement and succession so much more interesting.

Could Armani ask for a better successor for his men’s business than the man he has worked so closely with for the past twenty-ish years?

Wednesday, March 8, 2006

On The Street…. 14th Street, New York

Wednesday, March 8, 2006

A Favorite Gentleman

I shot this gentleman at the flea market a few months ago, I saw him again this weekend and he was no less elegant. I love the critter cords.

Wednesday, March 8, 2006

On The Street….The Actress, New York

Tuesday, March 7, 2006

Two Reason Why Carine Roitfeld Is The Sexiest Editor In Fashion

The I’m-having-more-fun-than-you smile

The body language

Tuesday, March 7, 2006

Sartorial Excellence Event – Spencer Hays, Oxxford Clothing

Tuesday, March 7, 2006

It’s Official – Marc Jacobs Winner Of Fall 2006 Collections

Kings Of The Runway, Fall 2006
1. Marc Jacobs – Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton- did anyone have a better one/two punch this season than Marc?
2. Nicolas Ghesqui

Tuesday, March 7, 2006

On The Street…. Elizabeth Street, New York

Tuesday, March 7, 2006

Sartorial Excellence Event – The Young Sartorialist II

This kid has such a great early ’80′s look, he said all the items were “vintage”.

I remember wearing this look on the first go around ( when I was in high school in ’84) and now I’m hearing from a current high school kid it is “vintage”, I almost punched him.

Tuesday, March 7, 2006

On The Street…. Prince Street, New York

Monday, March 6, 2006

Sartorial Excellence Event – Bruce Boyer

Monday, March 6, 2006

Modern Vintage

I love when an outfit looks so modern, then you find out it is all vintage.

Monday, March 6, 2006

Sartorial Excellence Event – The Young Sartorialist

One of the best things about the Sartorial Excellence event was the number of young Sartorialists that passed through during even the short time I was there.

“Sartorial Excellence” sounds like it could get a bit (a lot) stuffy and stodgy but these young guys in their vintage suits and second-hand ties were the perfect balance to the perfectly-fitted outfitters.

Monday, March 6, 2006

United Bamboo Coat……Soho

I love being surprised.
Because of the taping on the outside seams, I thought this coat was probably Marni.
Apparently it is United Bamboo ,a small American designer collection, what I really liked was how beautifully it was executed. Small companies often have a difficult time producing their more ambitious designs but this coat was very well done.


Sunday, March 5, 2006

Camo Couple….Nolita

Sunday, March 5, 2006

Alexander McQueen, Fall 2006… He’s Back!

When McQueen is at the top of his game, is there anyone better?

I once interviewed the fashion directors of Saks, Bergdorf and Neimans, I asked which were their two or three favorite fashion shows of all-time, each one mentioned a different McQueen show among their favorites.

The Asylum, the Wind Tunnel, the Dance – Alexander has created some of the most memorable shows of our generation.
Fall 2006 show with Kate will go down as The Hologram, chalk up another for the ages.

Dear Gucci,
Cut Alexander McQueen some slack, Bottega is up and going, run Tomas Maier ragged for profits and leave Alexander to create the physical form of our dreams.

Sunday, March 5, 2006

Deconstructed Couple

Sunday, March 5, 2006

On The Street…. Brooklyn, New York

It’s all about the braided hair.

Sunday, March 5, 2006

Sartorial Excellence Event – Gabor Halmos, Vass Shoes

Sunday, March 5, 2006

On The Street….Bryant Park

Saturday, March 4, 2006

Sartorial Excellence Event – Alexander Kabbaz, Host

This weekend, Alexander Kabbaz was the gracious host of the second annual Sartorial Excellence event in Manhattan. Highlighting some of the smaller but no less fantastic modern keepers of the sartorial flame, the event was a chance for Sartorialists to get together and discuss the minutiae of pad stitching, stitches per inch, and who supplies the best double-welt, rainproof house slippers in America. The Q&A with industry experts was quite enjoyable and Bruce Boyer proved he was equally captivating with the spoken or written word.

In the photo above, Alex discusses the finer points of the working buttonhole.

Saturday, March 4, 2006

On The Street….Little West 12th

Saturday, March 4, 2006

On The Street…. 14th Street

Saturday, March 4, 2006

Marc Jacobs Tweed Coat

Friday, March 3, 2006

Brunello Cucinelli, Fall 2006 Preview -3

Friday, March 3, 2006

Those Teen Vogue Girls

Friday, March 3, 2006

Brunello Cucinelli, Fall 2006 Preview -2

Friday, March 3, 2006

On The Street…. Tribeca, New York

Friday, March 3, 2006

Robert Burke

Friday, March 3, 2006

On The Street…. Chelsea Market

Thursday, March 2, 2006

Brunello Cucinelli, Fall 2006 Preview

Cucinelli projects as a label for an older customer ,than say Slimane/Dior but as you see in the photo below Brunello can absolutely be put together in a young hip way,
Personally I don’t wear much black and I like to play with a little color so this look is a great way to have a slim young silhouette while not succumbing to the New York blackout.

Thursday, March 2, 2006

Morning, Meatpacking District

Great bag but it is all about the shawl beautifully draped around her shoulders.

Thursday, March 2, 2006

Dries Van Noten, Fall 2006 – How Does He Do it?

-No advertising

-Very little press, especially profiles

-No mega-corp big bucks backing him

-Consistent without being repetitive

-Retail sales superstar

-Just as creative but more realistic than Yohji or Comme

-Looks good on a size 2 or 12

I don’t know how Dries does it but his success is a triumph of true/superior design talent over big money, hype, and Hollywood Trash Chic.

Although this season was not one of my all-time favorites, every time I see his show I’m reminded of why I love fashion in the first place.

Thursday, March 2, 2006

Bold Color

I love the bold color and the successful “fold-under” of the bottom hem of the knit – Thr fold-under allows for a much more flattering fall of the knit over your stomach and hips.
The fold-under can look a little tricky from the side view so I usually only do it layered under a jacket. To avoid the whole thing, I try to only buy double- zip sweaters.

Thursday, March 2, 2006

A Coat To Highlight Great Legs!

Thursday, March 2, 2006

Vest Over Blazer

A Sartorialist friend on mine just got back from Milan and mentioned the puffy vest over jackets and suits is even more noticeable than usual right now.

Wednesday, March 1, 2006

Godfrey Deeny, Rogueish Style -Making The DB Look Good Again

Wednesday, March 1, 2006

Balenciaga, Fall 2006 – Hard To Beat

There are still some heavy hitters left (Rochas, Lanvin, Vuitton, McQueen, Dries) but unless they have incredibly spectacular shows (even higher than their usual high standards) it is going to be hard to beat Balenciaga this season.

References to the past without feeling retro, a perfect balance between the design aesthetics of Cristobal and Nicolas and feeling both extremely refined while street-ready at the same time – Balenciaga kept me riveted with every look.

ps Gaultier looked better than he had for a while but JPG please edit, edit, edit. If he would have shown the best 28 looks, instead of 6oish, the show would have had so much more impact.

Wednesday, March 1, 2006

The Navy Blazer II

Wednesday, March 1, 2006

Grey Trench