Archives

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

14th St. – Dress Over Jeans

It has been a slow and incredibly painful experiment to watch but I think some girls are finally getting how to wear a dress over jeans. It never seems to work in the summer, so maybe it is just a layering thing to be done in Fall/Winter.

I should have asked this girl how influenced she was by the recent Marc Jacobs show or if a little guy with longish brown hair and new giant glasses had been stalking her right up until fashion week.


click on the photo to enlarge image.

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Men’s Vogue -2nd Issue – I Want To Love You

I just picked up the second issue of Men’s Vogue – I want so bad to love it but…..

Maybe I misunderstood the audience Men’s Vogue was going for but I got the impression that they were targeting the slightly older, sophisticated man that wants something a bit more refined than the current GQ selection, but still no less fashion relevant – GQ for the Borrelli, Bergdorf set. The first issue was great and raised the bar of excellence in men’s fashion magazines.

Maybe the first issue just set the bar a little too high.

In my experience, the men that are over 25 and still into fashion are really into fashion, and there is currently a giant void in the magazine market for that niche – perfect timing for Men’s Vogue – but this issue has very little real fashion coverage.

The main fashion editorial is a blandish suit story featuring Paul Bettany of the upcoming movie “The DaVinci Code”. I guess it is ok but it is just missing that pop of something really special or inspiring. The suits are all a taupy-tan-ish and paired with uninspiring tonal shirts and ties. Putting together exciting (but not necessarily over-dramatic) suit/shirt/pocket square/tie combinations is exactly the kind of direction men want from fashion magazines. The front of the book articles all look very interesting but it is the meat-and-potatoes fashion coverage that I want from Men’s Vogue, not more political critiques from a fashion magazine.

The styling of the Tiger Woods story is completely forgettable and the accessories coverage is all golf shoes and golf gloves.

Considering that it is much more difficult for men to dress really great in the high heat of summer, an issue like this could be a valuable tool. Color was all over the runways for Spring 2006 and is in the stores in a big way right now, how about a little direction from Men’s Vogue on how to make color work for men over 30 in both our work and causal wardrobes? There are two ties “of color” in the entire magazine.

By far the best fashion is a story called “Life Studies” that was shot on two “real people”: “literary power broker” Luke Janklow (shot in his own jacket) and “public intellectual” Noah Feldman. It just proves my point that real guys are so much more aspirational than what the runways and magazines are feeding us.

Men’s Vogue has access to all the best brands in the world, so why are so many of the same brands that are already featured in GQ, Esquire, and seemingly every other men’s magazine also in Men’s Vogue. Can’t anyone break the advertisers grip?

Dear Men’s Vogue,
We had an incredible first date but the second was a bit shaky; everyone knows I give it up on the third, so I’m crossing my fingers you bring the heat for the next issue.

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Stefano Tonchi, New York Times Magazine

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Black Tie & Jeans

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Another Lady Of A Cetain Elegance

Tuesday, February 28, 2006

That Skin II

Monday, February 27, 2006

Hamish Bowles……European Carry-All

Monday, February 27, 2006

Layers Of Black

For me, the whole look is all in this close-up. The tiny, motorcycle-ish jacket, layered over the lady-like cardigan, on top of sexy slim jeans. The zipper pulls are icing.

Monday, February 27, 2006

Backstage……..Frayed Tweed

Notice the frayed, upturned bottom edge of the jacket.

Monday, February 27, 2006

The Tiny Suit

Monday, February 27, 2006

The Sartorialist In The Press

I hate to admit it but I am a little bit proud of the write-ups The Sartorialist has been getting lately. Here are two,

Fashion Wire Daily

The Sartorialist: A Blog with a Difference
By Massimo O’Neil
February 18, 2006 @ 9:26 PM – Paris
Everyone is talking about fashion blogs at the moment, even if most of them read like stream of consciousness fashion warbles from the seventh row. ??One site with a difference, however, is The Sartorialist, a wee mouthful of a name, we?ll agree, but a novel bite-sized approach to fashion. ??Created by Scott Schuman five months ago, the Satorialist is essentially a men?s wear visual blog, which interprets fashion by concentrating on how editors, critics, buyers and models dress, rather than taking its lead from the catwalks. ??A 38-year-old fashion ?veteran,? Schuman worked on the wholesale end industry before launching his own designer showroom, Schuman, which represented young talent like Peter Som and James Coviello. ??Schuman?s prose style ranges from complimentary to laudatory without, happily, plunging into the muck of obsequiousness that afflicts so many bloggers. ???At it’s core The Sartorialist is a mens fashion blog which started because all of the “real” industry guys I knew were so much better dressed and inspirational to me than anything I would see in GQ or other magazines,? Schuman told FWD. ??Blessed with a good eye, neat prose and the boundless energy of bloggers, Schuman is on track to 55,000 visitors/110,000 page views per a month. Readers also get to comment on The Sartorialist?s point and shoot portraits and commentaries with comments of their own. And folks like Carine Roitfeld, Jim Nelson, Meredith Melling Burke and a certain Irish critic we enjoy reading don?t escape unscathed. ??Despite his fresh eye, Schuman does not entirely avoid that old fashion virus ? taking oneself a tad seriously. ???Since The Sartorialist runs 98% of my own photographs, in an abstract way, I’m like a cross between Cathy Horyn and Bill Cunningham,? opines Scott. ??Don?t just love the chutzpah. Try it yourself. ?

The Gothamist.com

The professional fashion business is so publicist and celebrity infested that it’s almost impossible to enjoy the clothes– we avoided the tents at Fashion Week like they were infested with avian flu. That’s what makes the Sartorialist blog so refreshing– it’s just pictures of stylish people on the street, with the occasional comment: “I could be wrong but this really looks like a French take on American classics. If you click on the photo to enlarge it, notice this is another young guy wearing a tie bar. I smell a trend.” The site is sort of a more populist version of the Look Book feature at New York Magazine. Fun!

Monday, February 27, 2006

The German Journalist

Monday, February 27, 2006

Michael Fink, Fashion Director, Saks Fifth Avenue

Monday, February 27, 2006

14th & 9th Ave

Sunday, February 26, 2006

It’s All About The Knee Length Coat

Sunday, February 26, 2006

Wrap it Up

Saturday, February 25, 2006

WOW !!!

Who doesn’t want to grow older as gracefully as this super cool couple.
Click on the photo to enlarge the image

Saturday, February 25, 2006

The Sale Of Jil Sander – Part II

Change Capital Partners ,the company that recently bought Jil Sander, must really have some big balls.

Not only are they going to try and revive a house that has been treading water ( more like rapids) for the last 4 or 5 years but they are going to do it with a designer ,Raf Simons, who has only one women’s collection under his belt.

This past Friday, Change Capital Partners announced dramatic growth and expansion plans with an eye to selling off the company in 3-5 years. What Balls! Just think about the pressure on Raf to immediately come up with an exciting, buzzbuilding vision for his women’s work. I’m sure the women’s RTW is more than half of the overall Sander RTW business, I would guess at least 70% (I will have to find the exact number), Raf has to hit the ground running.

Raf had to know of the upcoming sale but do you think he wanted the plans to flip the company to be so openly announced? If the horizon to sell is 3 years, then Raf has ,maybe, 3 more seasons because at the half way point ,if the results are not on track, don’t you think the investors ( who have no other high-end fashion businesses) will start getting a little nervous. Will they start shopping for another new designer and start all over again?

I would love to be in those meetings a year and a half from now, when Raf is seriously trying to explain to the investors ,in a language they understand (numbers), why it hasn’t happened yet. (if it hasn’t)

Design wise, Raf really only has two extreme ways to go to make a dramatic statement. He can either play it safe, hoping the long suffering Jil customers rally around the brand (which they have been asked to do a lot lately) or go very high-concept in design in hopes of attracting new heat to the brand. With so much pressure to make Jil work, what will this do to his own signature collection which is the best work he does?

Again, Change Capital says they have no interest in bringing back Jil, but doesn’t everyone want to bring back Jil?

So what do you think? Will this fourth revival be the new Golden Age for the Jil Sander company or will it just fade into oblivion?

Saturday, February 25, 2006

Who’s That Girl

Saturday, February 25, 2006

On The Steps……Belted Red Fur Coat

Friday, February 24, 2006

A Curmudgeon’s Lament


A Curmudgeon?s Lament, or
Musings of an Old Ivy Leaguer

By

G. Bruce Boyer

When I was growing up back in the late 1950s, the matter of dress for young men was relatively simple. When a boy reached adolescence he would put away much of his childhood wardrobe — whatever that might have been — and begin to wear a basic outfit that would see him through the college years and beyond. It was a time before the designer revolution in menswear, before the Ralph Laurens and Versaces, the Armanis and Paul Smiths, the Dolces and the Gabannas. A simpler time.

It was a time when there were basically three types of clothing stores. There was of course the traditional store for the traditional American business look: conservatively cut suits, safe shirts (the majority of which were white, with one or two collar styles), and discreet foulard or striped neckwear. Then there was the somewhat ?sharper? store, a more courant version of the trad store, more upscale, hipper, more for the man who was known for caring about style. In the late ?50s this store took on a bit of European flair. The clothing was called ?Continental?, meaning Italian, to distinguish it from British. There had been a tradition of British clothing here, but the Italian thing was new.

Finally there was the Ivy League shop.

Called “Ivy League” or ?campus? shop because the style had originated, evolved, and took it’s strength from the prestigious Eastern Establishment universities. After World War II young men of growing middle class means attended these institutions of higher learning in droves on the G.I. Bill of economic assistance. What they found was that they could construct a basic campus wardrobe without a great deal of money and effort. There was high serviceability and low maintenance to the college wardrobe of the day.

The basic items were the oxford cloth buttondown shirt and cotton twill khaki trousers. Six shirts, three white and three blue, and two or three pair of khakis would do the job. In cooler weather, a Shetland crewneck sweater in any color was added. A pair of brown penny loafers and white tennis sneakers (possibly a pair of white or tan buckskin oxfords) constituted the acceptable range of footwear.

For outerwear, a cotton gabardine balmacaan raincoat (always tan), and a stout duffel coat (in tan or navy) were all that were needed, although many men also had a cotton gab golf jacket, also in tan. Mountain climbing parkas, safari jackets, trout fishing coats, barn coats, and equestrian slickers were all thought of as exotic sportswear.

Everyone had a tweed sports jacket (Harris or Shetland) and/or a navy single-breasted blazer for semi-dress, and a gray flannel suit for dress. Summer semi-formality was assured with a seersucker or tan poplin suit; some had madras sports jackets; for the more formal occasions a dark Grey or navy tropical worsted suit. A half-dozen ties (regimentals, foulards, or dots), and the necessary complement of underwear, socks, pajamas, and handkerchiefs filled out the basics.

Cut, fit, and quality were what was important. If it was all properly fitted, of the acceptable cut, and made well, these items would do a young man proud, no matter where he was going, or what the occasion, from a faculty tea to a classy dance.

And it wasn?t a matter of being simply less sophisticated either. There were intricacies of cut and quality to these basic garments that belied their straight-forwardness. Good jackets, for example, were always three-button and natural-shouldered, softly constructed in the chest and cut on the easy side. Lapels extended about a third of the way to the shoulder line, and aficionados were quick to note the hook vent in the rear. Trousers were also cut easy, just this side of baggy. Everything, needless to say, shouldn’t look too new. Quality used to imply longevity in those days. Raincoats, khakis, shoes, and tweeds were all expected to be slightly scuffed and rumpled. A soft patina of age was desirable, and total effect should be rather a studied nonchalance. An old money sprezzatura was the style.

Those dozen garments or so weren’t the be-all and end-all, of course. There were myriad other attractions for the dandies amongst us. Silk knit ties (plain black or navy was best, with square-cut ends) and paisley pocket squares, odd flannel trousers, broadcloth tab-collar shirts, cordovan brogues and scotchgrain wingtips, navy worsted pinstripes with vests, white duck trousers for summer, and lambswool turtlenecks for winter. The sophisticated young man may have splurged for a camelhair polo coat. Everyone seemed to have colorfully striped surcingle belts with brass horseshoe-shaped buckles. And the brightest Argyle socks.

For most, the subtleties of double-breasted jackets and grenadine neckwear, of suede town shoes, enameled cuff links, covert cloth chesterfields, and cashmere cabled hosiery were not imaginable. But then neither were exterior logos, Italian designers, or microfibers.

There also didn?t seem to be the questions of what to wear when. We certainly knew when the occasion called for a tie, and gym clothes were confined to the gym.

It was, as I say, a simpler time.

Friday, February 24, 2006

Cathy Horyn’s NYT Milan Reviews – I Know She Didn’t Just Say That!!

I’m reading Cathy’s NYT Milan reviews today covering Burberry and Gucci- of everything she wrote (most of it seems pretty reasonable) the one line that stood out above all the rest was -

“the first models came out in silk print minidresses, Jim Gold, the chief executive of Bergdorf Goodman, turned and shouted, “We’re selling Gucci ready-to-wear better than we ever did under Tom Ford”".

Oh no she didn’t !!!

She’s calling out Jim Gold!

At first, I thought it was just Cathy being Cathy (like Manny being Manny, did I stump you again?)

Maybe Cathy was just overstating for emphasis or dramatic effect but today I spoke to a few people who would have a good take on the situation and they seemed to think it wasn’t so far fetched.

The question now is – Is Cathy a Hollaback Girl?

Friday, February 24, 2006

The Blonde Army

Friday, February 24, 2006

The Fulton Street Fish Market

I use to love shooting early on summer mornings at the Fulton Street Fish Market. There was never an end to the characters that were in and out of that place; salty old-timers, young studs, guys on parole, a toothless old-lady that sold newspapers from a shopping cart – you name it, they were all there. Somehow giant dead fish just couldn’t compete with the fish mongers for visual interest.

When I first saw this kid (above) he was sitting just exactly as you see him in the photo. The guys that worked at the market were so use to photographers that they never paid attention to them anymore. Now that the fish market has moved to the Bronx to a state-of-the-art temperature control covered space it just doesn’t hold the same gritty appeal as the old spot downtown.

Friday, February 24, 2006

On The Street…….Sixth Ave

It is nice to see monotone done with a color other than black.

Friday, February 24, 2006

All In The Mix

Thursday, February 23, 2006

The Young Yves Saint Laurent?

Thursday, February 23, 2006

Long Blonde

Thursday, February 23, 2006

In The Crowd…..Crested Navy Blazer

Thursday, February 23, 2006

The Plot Thickens – Jil Sander Sold By Prada To Equity Fund

So now it gets really interesting –

Are the Jil Sander collections this season strong enough to stand on their own without Prada’s protection and patience?

How many seasons does Raf have to turn it around before he gets the door?

How long before Jil is back at the company?

Helmut?

Thursday, February 23, 2006

That Skin

Thursday, February 23, 2006

New Barker Black Website

The new Barker Black

website is up and it looks great!

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Michael Williams, NO.9 Public Relations

I always wondered where “trads” (traditionalists) came from? Was it something you could be born into or ,more likely, was it something you adopted after flings with New Romantics, Rebel, Jock, Nerd or Euro?

Recently I met Michael Williams, a cool, young, New York trad who owns NO.9 Public Relations. He is the perfect example of how any style (no matter how potentially unhip), if mixed the right way and worn with a certain attitude can work on almost anybody, any age.

The Sartorialist asked Michael a few questions about his personal style.
Describe your personal style
Neo-trad

Personal style quirk
I love to change outfits in the middle of the day.

You build your daily look around your?
Everyday its something different… sometimes shoes, sometimes pants,
other times a jacket or shirt.

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist’s outfit?
Overall fit

I always break this fashion rule.
Brown & Black or Navy & Black

I never break this fashion rule.
I really don’t follow “fashion rules” I like to wear what feels good
and looks right to me.

Must have item for Fall 2006
Anything from Michael Bastian AW06

Favorite store(s)
J. Press ? NYC
Steven Alan ? NYC
By George ? Austin
American Rag ? LA
Cable Car Clothiers ? San Francisco

Style icon
JFK

Worst fashion mistake
Shirt collars over jacket lapels

Favorite item of clothing
Some great vintage woven shirts from J. Press in the 80s

Favorite “fashiony” movie
Wall Street , American Psycho ? basically any 80′s prep movie

Guilty pleasure
Tote bags, Denim

Most overrated item in menswear
Made in Italy

Most underrated item in menswear
Made in USA

Most stylish city
New York

When I was high school I wore?
Penny loafers

Shine your own shoes?
Of course

I always dress my best for?.?
Carnegie Hall

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Cathy Horyn’s NYT Milan Reviews – What?

Today in Cathy Horyn’s reviews for NYT covering the women’s collections from Milan, she hails Raf Simons work for Jil Sander as “A Man Who Gets Women”.

She writes “he must have spent a lot of time contemplating women” – What?

To prove her point the Times runs the three pictures below from the Jil Sander show, What?

Sorry, but these looks do nothing to capture the diversity of sexiness, gentleness and strength of the modern women I know.

The collection looks just exactly like what it is – a very talented menswear designer trying to figure out how to translate his aesthetic to women’s while still honoring the reputation of a major design house.

The real kicker , though, is that in the very next paragraph she condemns Consuelo Castiglioni work at Marni’ (and “female designers” in general) by writing “Why can’t female designers create fashion commensurate with the largeness and complexity of their lives?”. What?

Raf is the star with that collection and Marni and Prada get thrown under the bus?

Cathy sums up Prada by saying “the murky layers, and the metropolis backdrop, came too close to Marc Jacob’s recent show”. What?

That is Miuccia’s fault?

Did Cathy see these looks from the Marni show?
Not only is this a new more sophisticated, sober, less BoHo-ish look for Marni but it speaks much more to the masculine/ feminine, sweet/sinister. refined/raw lives of modern women.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

To The Next Show

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Michael Roberts, New Yorker Magazine

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Check The Archives

The February archive (which is on the righthand side) is already jammed packed with more images from fashion week that don’t show on the first page. If you get a chance, check it out.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Checked & Balanced

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

The Photographer

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Fashion Friends

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

The Green Dandy

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Giorgio Armani, Fall 2006

There is a whole new generation that will never see Giorgio Armani the way I saw him when I was growing up. When I was in college Armani was the hot youngish designer, easily the most important and directional designer in the world (for both men’s and women’s, no one currently can say that) but still a small business. At the same time Yves Saint Laurent was an aging design superstar who was reaping the rewards of having built an empire but now held little allure to the younger fashion-sensitive generation. At the time I couldn’t imagine any girl I knew wearing anything from the YSL runway, I also couldn’t imagine not wanting every single item from the Armani shows.

With his Fall 2006 collection Armani has officially accepted the torch of “grand old designer.” I cannot imagine any recent Parsons graduate panting over the uptight/uptown ladylike looks that dominated Armani’s runway this season. Don’t get me wrong, Armani is still a master but it just doesn’t speak to that young customer the way Marc or Prada do currently (actually it has been slowly happening for years, but this season Armani has now officially “jumped the shark”).

Armani’s biggest challenge is not lack of or waning talent but the lack of motivation to change. He is so hooked-up in China and other emerging markets that the bottomline will keep bouncing along nicely regardless of what is happening in the press reviews. The only thing that these shows will effect is his legacy but it is not easy to walk away, just ask Brett Favre (did I stump you?). I have a crazy idea, Helmut Lang designs Emporio Armani and when Giorgio is ready to retire Helmut takes the lead, could you think of any recent de-companied designer that could potentially do a better job?

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

On The Steps

So which would you pay more for, her coat or to get your hair to look like that?

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

On The Street…. Tribeca, New York

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Jil Sander – Fall 2006 Standing Still

The Jil Sander apologist keep saying that Prada shouldn’t change the brand too much; they should be faithful to Jil’s vision, make sure not to alienate her customer. Prada listened and now they are slowing killing the brand.

Is what we are seeing from Raf, below, what got us all excited about Jil in the first place? What made Jil’s work in the 90′s so exciting was not just her minimalistic design, but the fact that it looked so good against what else was out there. The most important designers at that time were minimalist (Jil, Helmut, and don’t forget Marc Jacobs was one of the best at the look) but fashion has moved on, Marc has moved on and up, but Helmut is gone and Jil (or at least the people running the business) just stands still.

Raf is a great talent and I know this is his first women’s collection but will these looks put Jil back on the map (or, even more importantly, back on the rack) as one of the most directional houses?

I want my Jil back!




Monday, February 20, 2006

Brown Eyes

Monday, February 20, 2006

Who Wears Thom Browne?

Monday, February 20, 2006

Literally On The Street Fashion

Monday, February 20, 2006

The Blonde

Monday, February 20, 2006

Winter Right

Sunday, February 19, 2006

On The Street…..Greenwich Street, New York

Sunday, February 19, 2006

On The Street….Lower Hudson Street, New York

Sunday, February 19, 2006

That Face

Sunday, February 19, 2006

Louis Vuitton Meets Army Surplus, Perfect.

Sunday, February 19, 2006

Between Shows

Sunday, February 19, 2006

Hamish Bowles, Vogue, European Editor-at-Large

Saturday, February 18, 2006

French American


I could be wrong but this really looks like a French take on American classics. If you click on the photo to enlarge it, notice this is another young guy wearing a tie bar. I smell a trend.

Saturday, February 18, 2006

The Great Grey Coat

I never would have guessed that this coat was Yigal Azrouel, I’m going to have to watch him more closely now.

Friday, February 17, 2006

How To Make Old-School Italian Look Sleek.

Most young guys I know think of Luciano Barbera as a collection for their dad. Everything the gentleman pictured below is wearing could be Barbera or Borrelli but because of the way he put it together it looks just as sleek and modern as Prada.

What makes it look Italian? The slim, creased pants, the scarf, the shape of the coat and ,most of all, the brown shoes.
What makes it Modern? The color palette, and the length of the pants (longer than most sartorial Italians wear theirs)

Friday, February 17, 2006

Dual

Friday, February 17, 2006

Hermes Coat

Friday, February 17, 2006

Godfrey Deeny, Fashion Journalist, Sartorialist

For the past two seasons I have seen a lot of fashion guys with the loosened tie, perfectly disheveled look but this is the first time I have seen it look really natural and really good. The secret? All of the elements are believable, the coat collar is kinda up, the tie doesn’t perfectly match the shirt, the sleeves are a little too long, and the notebook is jammed in the coat pocket.

That’s called “living the look”.

Friday, February 17, 2006

The Redhead

Friday, February 17, 2006

That Hair, Part II

Thursday, February 16, 2006

At The Show

Thursday, February 16, 2006

Who Needs Expensive Clothes When You Are Young And Beautiful

Thursday, February 16, 2006

Waiting for Luca Luca

Thursday, February 16, 2006

That Smile

Thursday, February 16, 2006

That Hair

Thursday, February 16, 2006

At The Tents – Purple Coat

Wednesday, February 15, 2006

The Stylish Always Influence The Fashionable

Camille Bidault Waddington backstage styling Wunderkind Fall 2006

Wednesday, February 15, 2006

Inspiration Isn’t Always A 40 Regular

What I really like about menswear is that I can be truly inspired by a gentleman of a certain age. Not in an ironic way (I think that is more of a women’s thing) but true inspiration.

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Cute Boys And Cute Girls In Da’ Hoods

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Robert Burke At The Ralph Lauren Show

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Why I Love Luigi Borrelli Shirts

I was talking to a menswear buyer the other day, and he told me something that he had heard while in Italy during a Borrelli appoIntment. As we all know Borrelli is famous for the handwork on their shirts: hand sewn buttonholes, interior collar band, yoke, etc. Apparently this work really is done by little old Italian ladies at their homes in the nearby countryside surrounding the Borrelli factory. When the ladies send the shirts back to the factory, the shirts have to be vigorously washed because they are covered in cigarette ash, dirt from the natural oil in the women’s hands, tiny drops of blood, and the shirts smell like food.

Of course by the time they reach your Neiman Marcus they are perfectly presentable examples of high-quality craftsmanship, but I love the idea that they begin life in such a humble and human way.

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Raw-Edged Trench

I love f@#%*king with a classic.

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Floating

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

Jeans & Jacket

Monday, February 13, 2006

Stefano Tonchi, New York Times Magazine

Monday, February 13, 2006

Cecilia Dean – Visionaire, Sartorialist

Monday, February 13, 2006

Freja Beha

Monday, February 13, 2006

Guido Palau- Star Hair Stylist

Monday, February 13, 2006

At The Tents -Chillin’

Monday, February 13, 2006

Scarf Fetish


Ok, ok – so I have a scarf fetish

Monday, February 13, 2006

Back On The Street

I really like how slim the jeans are, especially at the ankle.

Monday, February 13, 2006

Charles Gwathmey, Architect, Sartorialist

The best part of Mr. Gwathmey’s jacket, which I didn’t notice until the last second, was the very deep double back vents. So elegant. Back in the 30′s or 40′s, this was the kinda guy that Equire magazine would sketch as “Seen in New York”.

Monday, February 13, 2006

Meredith Melling Burke, Vogue, Senior Market Editor

Monday, February 13, 2006

The Costume Designer

This is how to wear a bowtie.

Sunday, February 12, 2006

What A Month For Paolo Roversi

I’m just now catching up on my February magazines and I was so impressed with the Paolo Roversi story in W. Harder, sharper colors and focus and overall more raw than Paolo’s typical work but still executed with his unmistakable eye. Then he follows that up with two knockout classic Roversi-esque stories in Italian Vogue and L’Uomo Vogue. My all-time favorite photographer is Bruce Weber for his idealized realism so Paolo is my second favorite because he is the exact polar opposite of Bruce’s work; Dreamy, painterly, dramatically overstyled and otherworldly.

ps. I just looked more closely at the Madonna Harper’s Bazaar. Can someone please shake Peter Lindbergh to get him off the “Hollywood Backlot” kick he is on.

Sunday, February 12, 2006

The Boys Backstage

Sunday, February 12, 2006

Jeffrey Banks At The Tents

Sunday, February 12, 2006

A Lady Of A Certain Style

Saturday, February 11, 2006

Andre Leon Talley, Vogue, Editor- At-Large

Ok, so The Sartorialist is a hottie and I think Andre knows it

Saturday, February 11, 2006

The Thom Browne Experiment

I’m in Jeffrey today and the new Thom Browne Spring 2006 collection is starting to hit the floor. It is really beautiful, pale grey base pieces with equally pale pink and yellow shirts, knits, yellow striped pants, pale yellow floral pattern sportcoat, and tying it all together hand-pieced madras sportcoat and shorts. The rack is beautifully coordinated and merchandised, except for one thing: about half of the available bottoms are shorts – not any old shorts, but $715ish shorts! I’m sure they are beautifully bespokeish shorts but they are still $715!!! Marni, Barrett, Dior – all had shorts but in the $250 to $300 range; still a lot for shorts but at least comparable.

So here is my question. If Thom Browne ultimately fails, who is to blame? Thom, for letting an important store like Jeffrey order a huge percentage of their order in shorts, or Jeffrey for ordering the shorts in the first place? If Jeffrey sells over 60% or 70% of those shorts at full price everyone is happy but if he doesn’t, then that is when the finger pointing begins.

Thom is trusting that Jeffrey is ordering something he knows he can sell in his store; lets face it though, Thom needs the order not only from a financial standpoint but also from a credibility standpoint. Jeffrey needs designers like Thom to keep his store relevant and exciting, but he is probably willing to take a bigger risk on Thom’s buy because in the big picture it is a small percentage of Jeffrey’s overall mens business.

The problem is when a guy like me, or just about any other straight or gay man I know, is willing to buy a $3000 sportscoat I don’t want a $700 pair of shorts to go with it. It is all about the merchandising; sure offer one pair of shorts but give me more pants to choose from – the pants are only $800, a comparative deal.

So at the end of the season when Thom only hits a 50% sell thru (sounds high to me, but let’s just say) don’t you think it will be those shorts? Again who is to blame? Will Jeffrey buy less next season when he looks at his reports and sees his sell thru was off,maybe (retailers have a short memory when you remind them that you warned them not to buy a certain item), Well, guess what, I just saw Thom’s collection for next season (Fall 2006) and it was full of wool shorts. Even if Jeffrey wanted to buy more pants he may not be able to, especially if he wants to stay true to representing Thom vision (which ultimately is what ever designer wants anyway). Is Thom offering the right merchandise for actual sales?

What are the bigger ramifications here for Thom and Jeffrey? For Jeffrey, not much. He will just move on to the next hot designer. For Thom, the consequences are much more dire. When stores that carry a similar mix as Jeffrey come to New York for market they always shop Jeffrey. They pay just as much attention to who Jeffrey has dropped as whom he has added. If Thom drops from Jeffrey he only has Bergdorf which is a lot different than having both.

I have personally been through this dance many times and it is no fun, but that is why I find what is happening in New York menswear so fascinating. This New York menswear revival will either happen or it won’t, but we will know pretty quickly.
I can’t wait to see how Spring sells.

Saturday, February 11, 2006

Jim Gold, Bergdorf Goodman, President & CEO

Saturday, February 11, 2006

So Chic! Xanthipi Joannides, Glamour, Fashion Director

Saturday, February 11, 2006

Jim Nelson, GQ, Editor-in-Chief

Saturday, February 11, 2006

Learn How To Work With What You Have

This young Teen Vogue editor has learned how to build a wardrobe to highlight her best feature…her beautful, beautful red hair. What she lacks in wardrobe variety she more than makes up for in exquisite execution.

Saturday, February 11, 2006

Natasha Poly

Saturday, February 11, 2006

?

Saturday, February 11, 2006

General Fabulousness At Ralph Lauren Fashion Show

Friday, February 10, 2006

Outside Ralph Lauren Women’s Fall 2006

Of course the scarf is the focal point of this look but what really completes the outfit is the driving gloves.

Friday, February 10, 2006

Jacquetta Wheeler Outside Ralph Lauren

Smoking – as noun not verb

Thursday, February 9, 2006

VPL Fall 2006

VPL is the kind of show that models love to work for trade. I wonder how many of the girls I shoot next September ,running around town on castings, will be wearing VPL pieces?

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Outside The Ralph Lauren Fashion Show

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Hamish Bowles, Vogue, European Editor-at-Large

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Thom Browne Fall 2006 – 5

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Alan Flusser At Ralph Lauren Fashion Show

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Outside VPL Fashion Show

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Liya

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Tuleh Fall 2006

So how does a small designer company on the Lower East Side create such a sophisticated and refined collection? If you are a young designer and you want to learn just how tough and yet rewarding the fashion business can be, forget Project Runway and start calling Bravo for Project Tuleh.

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Backstage at Wunderkind

Wednesday, February 8, 2006

Luciano Barbera Preview Fall 2006 – The 18/50

Michal was really excited about the new jacket model, the LBBL 18/50, they were introducing this season. After seeing and trying it on for myself I can see why. Since I cannot take notes nearly as fast as he can talk here is a copy of the press release he sent me about the jacket specifics.

“The LBBL jacket is one of a kind, the craftsmanship is created by knowledgeable and skilled hands in 18 hours and 50 minutes. Its secret ? a forgotten tailoring craft called ?velo?, with the characteristics of the grand tailoring artisans as, for example, the ?pence? extending from the top to the bottom of the jacket. A detail which has never been done in pr

Wednesday, February 8, 2006

At The Tents -After The Bill Blass Show

Wednesday, February 8, 2006

At The Tents -On The Steps

Wednesday, February 8, 2006

Marc Jacobs Fall 2006

Some shows are just so beautiful it literally hurts.
This show captures everything I love about design.
Color, volume, texture, layering, mixing divergent references and best of all the collection always looks even better in the store than is does in runway photos.

Marc Jacobs has earned every bit of respect he has garnered in his career, and he still relatively young. So what has to happen for us to begin considering that he just may be the most important designer America has ever produced?

Wednesday, February 8, 2006

On The Street….Lafayette Street, New York

Wednesday, February 8, 2006

Narciso Rodriguez – Mens Fall 2006

So Narciso decides to add a little menswear to his fashion show this season.
This is the best he could come up with?
Why bother?
It is such a throw away, especially when you consider how beautifully intricate his womenswear can be, it is almost insulting. To be fair Narciso is know for a minimalists hand but come on, I can only hope it feels incredible in the showroom because it is not much to look at on the runway.
Just to beat a dead horse, except for the background, could you really tell the difference between these designers collections? And designers lament that real men don’t buy their clothes, well…duh? Designers please put in just half the time on mens that you do on women’s and lets try again next season.

Tuesday, February 7, 2006

A Sartorialist In Detail

If you want to judge the success of a Sartorialist outfit then take a look at his left shoulder. The shape of a jacket shoulder, pocket square, the shirt and tie combo and how it relates to the pattern and texture of the jacket, even the quality of the suit by looking at the roll of the lapel can all be judged by taking a peek at the southpaw (I feel I should mention a southpaw is a lefthanded baseball pitcher).
Below are two recent photos that show how beautifully nuanced, stylish and artistic menswear ,at its best, can be. Of course shoes can make or break a Sartorialist but if he can get the left shoulder right then you can almost bet the shoe are also on the mark.

Tuesday, February 7, 2006

Thom Browne Fall 2006 – 4

Tuesday, February 7, 2006

The Boys

Tuesday, February 7, 2006

The Girls

Tuesday, February 7, 2006

Outside The Ralph Lauren Men’s Fashion Show

Tuesday, February 7, 2006

Robert Bryan, Men’s Fashion Director, New York Times Magazine

Tuesday, February 7, 2006

David Chu Fall 2006 – 4

Tuesday, February 7, 2006

Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2006


In the 80′s and 90′s Yohji built his reputation as a serious, monastic, and intellectual “artiste”. As his career has evolved and we have learned more about the real Yohji (the guitar playing Yohji, the karate master Yohji), he seems so much cooler than just “the designer” Yohji. I think that is why his Y-3 work is so good; I think he, better than most fashion forward designers, really gets how “sports”wear works in both the real and fashion world. Look at the shoes above; I hate most of the designer trainers but I love the look of these. They remind me of when Nike was really on the mark in the late 90′s.

Monday, February 6, 2006

Casual Friday Done Right

Monday, February 6, 2006

Thom Browne Fall 2006 – 3

Monday, February 6, 2006

Old Man Style….At The Tents

Monday, February 6, 2006

Model – Lily Cole

Monday, February 6, 2006

At The Ralph Lauren Show

So what do the best dressed men in the industry wear to the most important mens fashion show of the New York season? Watch The Sartorialist for the next several days, I will be posting photos from the fantastic fashion show outside the Ralph Lauren show.

Monday, February 6, 2006

David Chu Fall 2006 – 3

Monday, February 6, 2006

In The Crowd…Thom Browne Presentation

Monday, February 6, 2006

Seen At The Scene

Monday, February 6, 2006

At The Tents – The Fashion Addict

Fellow fashion blogger Fashion Addict Diary waiting for the Tuleh show

Monday, February 6, 2006

Stephen Gan, Visionaire

Monday, February 6, 2006

Model Transportation

Monday, February 6, 2006

Thom Browne Fall 2006 – 2

Monday, February 6, 2006

At The Tents – In The Crowd

Monday, February 6, 2006

At The Tents – Love Is In The Air

Monday, February 6, 2006

David Chu Fall 2006 – 2

Saturday, February 4, 2006

Thom Browne Fall 2006 – 1

Saturday, February 4, 2006

David Chu Fall 2006 – 1

Saturday, February 4, 2006

At The Tents – Before The Show

Saturday, February 4, 2006

At The Tents

Saturday, February 4, 2006

Outside The Ralph Lauren Men’s Fashion Show II

Saturday, February 4, 2006

At The Tents

Friday, February 3, 2006

John Varvatos Fall 2006 – Backstage

Friday, February 3, 2006

Luciano Barbera Preview Fall 2006 – The Details

Friday, February 3, 2006

On The Street…..Crosby Street, New York

Friday, February 3, 2006

On The Street…..Greenwich Street, New York

Friday, February 3, 2006

On The Street…..Soho, New York

The cape is…wait, I mean her coat, wait…that is a cape, no…coat..?..

Thursday, February 2, 2006

The Weight Of…


Most young designers worry about if they can actually create a unique voice for their collection, get stores and press to review the line, secure financing and manufacturing, get help with shipping, accounting, and every other aspect of running their own business (usually doing all this within the confines of their own tiny apartment). With his debut collection, Michael Bastian (above) seems to have breezed by most of these challenges, and headlong into an even more deadly challenge for a young designer….expectations. If you are Kris Van Assche, the most luxururious thing on your side is time. Van Assche was probably a pleasant surprise for most stores and press; if a store is buying his collection, it is more than likely for the press he is getting. If they sell a little, great; if they don’t, they don’t lose that much and they can always put pressure on him to get them up to sell thru or take it back….let me correct that, they always put pressure on them to take it back. As long as Van Assche continues to show potential and gain press pages, if he has an up or down season, it’s no big deal. (right, Ann Demeulemeester?)
However, if you are Mr. Bastian and stores come to the appointment knowing his support system and Bergdorf background, the first thing they see is $$$$. If he is able to manage a soft shop or pad, or at least a dedicated area in his first season, he has to produce, and quick. I doubt that department stores will feel uncomfortable discussing gross margins with a former retailer at the end of a season. Anyone remember Matt Nye? Similiar situation – he had the looks, the background, access to big money, and great contacts. Unfortunately, once you got past the big red cross logo on his navy turtleneck sweaters there wasn’t a lot of design going on. I just don’t see lack of ideas being a problem for Michael Bastian. If I seem like a “homer” (that’s a sportscaster that roots for the home team while on air) for his collection, it is because I have seen his work and I have met him and I am impressed with his….awareness. He seems aware of his abilities (and if you watch Project Runway you know this is rare in designers), and aware of this opportunity. All I can say is that watching Michael Bastian and Thom Browne over the next few season is going to make for great theater.

Thursday, February 2, 2006

Luciano Barbera Preview Fall 2006 – 3

So Michal Sestak of Barbera is telling me all about the incredible textiles that Barbera develops for their collection and he pulls out this cotton/wool blend sportscoat. He artistically lets it crumple into a plush ball on the table and explains that cotton greatly helps the drape of almost any fabric it is blended with. I don’t know if it is true ,I’m sure it is, but thank God guys in retail stores don’t do that to me or I could never stop buying. Good presentations like his are like clothing crack.

Thursday, February 2, 2006

On The Street……The Gamine Of Prince Street, New York

I don’t think I could possible describe how much I love the look on the right. I love the red jacket, old school trainers, ascot, gamine haircut, super slim jeans, and the attitude.

Thursday, February 2, 2006

On The Street…..Spring Street, New York

Wednesday, February 1, 2006

Luciano Barbera Preview Fall 2006 – 2

Wednesday, February 1, 2006

On The Street……Nolita, New York

Wednesday, February 1, 2006

An Unforgotten Style

Wednesday, February 1, 2006

Yves Saint Laurent, Fall 2006


Easily one of my favorite shows so far this season. There is a sportiness and attitude in the way the clothes are worn, it reminds me of Armani at his best in the mid 80′s. I love all the patterned sportscoat, scarves, gloves and ,just maybe, these are the pleated pants that finally push pleated pants back into the mainstream.