Archives

Saturday, December 31, 2005

If…….You Must Ponytail

….then this is the way to do it.

Saturday, December 31, 2005

Old Man Style…Williamsburg, New York

Saturday, December 31, 2005

Window Shopping…….Domenico Vacca, Mad. Ave.

Friday, December 30, 2005

Nolita Street Vendor

Friday, December 30, 2005

Style At The Former Fulton Street Fish Market

Thursday, December 29, 2005

On The Street……#10 Jacket, Midtown

Thursday, December 29, 2005

Young Fencers….New York City

Thursday, December 29, 2005

On The Street…….Girl In A Yellow Scarf

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

On The Street….Flea Market, West 39th Street

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Old Man Style…Williamsburg, New York

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Why I Love This Look – Ralph Lauren Fall 2005

I loved this look from the first moment I saw it, Thom Browne Fall 2004

Tuesday, December 27, 2005

Inside Domenico Vacca, Soho, New York

Tuesday, December 27, 2005

On The Street…….Nolita, New York

Monday, December 26, 2005

On The Street…….Cream Coat

If you can afford the cleaning bills , then why not a cream coat.

Monday, December 26, 2005

Why I Love This Look – Ralph Lauren

Some looks I can imagine walking right off the runway and right into my closet.

Monday, December 26, 2005

The Living Definition Of “Cute Girl”

Sunday, December 25, 2005

Merry Christmas!

I’m pouring a 40 for all my elf homies still deliverin’

Sunday, December 25, 2005

Soho Sailor

Peascoats should always fit this way.

Saturday, December 24, 2005

Another Orange Scarf


…..but damn, it still looks good!

Saturday, December 24, 2005

A Good Pair Of Shoes Is Hard To Throw Out

Friday, December 23, 2005

Why I Love This Look – Burberry


What a sophisticated use of color: Olive Green, Burgundy, Burnt Orange, Pale Blue.

Friday, December 23, 2005

On The Street…. Soho, New York

More red pants in Soho.

Friday, December 23, 2005

On The Street…….Gold Tooth

Love the coat and the Ralph Lauren boots
Love the gold tooth even more

Thursday, December 22, 2005

On The Street…. Fur Hat, Soho, NYC

Thursday, December 22, 2005

Why I Love This Look – Dries Van Noten

Modern Vintage. Even if you can’t afford any of his clothes, Dries can deeply affect your style by the inspiration his shows can offer for use of color, overall silhouette, and his unique ability to mix themes and periods.

Thursday, December 22, 2005

Christmas Wish List…Racing Style, Koto Bolofo


Koto Bolofo is one of my favorite fashion photographers ,but he is really so much more, including documentary filmmaker. For this book Koto has recreated a automobile race circa 1940′s England with drivers, cars, pit-crew, fans and signage all true to the period. Imagine L’Uomo Vogue meets Car & Driver. Really fantastic.

Thursday, December 22, 2005

The New Skater Style

slim, slim jeans

Wednesday, December 21, 2005

French James Dean

In a vague way this photo reminds me on that famous photo of James Dean walking in Times Square while wearing an overcoat.

Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Lapo Elkann. Nephew Of Gianni Agnelli

I found these while surfing the net. Notice the Italian flag “monogram” on the sleeve cuff in the top photo.

Tuesday, December 20, 2005

On The Street….The Parisian Way, Soho, New York

Tuesday, December 20, 2005

Sartorialiste In A Great Coat

Tuesday, December 20, 2005

Why I Love This Look – YSL

The gloves,
The scarf,
The shoes,
The pocket square,
The accessories take an unremarkable suit to a whole new level.

Monday, December 19, 2005

“A Favorite English Sentence” by G.Bruce Boyer

A Favorite English Sentence
By
G. Bruce Boyer

 

“If you will kindly step through, sir?”

 

The first time I heard those words was on my second trip to London. I’d been there once before, when I was a student and had no money to speak of. None to even whisper about. There was a chain of shops called Burton’s selling good English-quality ready-made clothes, and I’d bought a wonderful checked Harris Tweed sports jacket off-the-rack. It was almost bullet-proof, and served me well for years.

 

But this time I was determined to have a real Savile Row suit, handmade with all the trimmings: working buttonholes on the sleeve, step-lapelled waistcoat, silk-lined trousers, boutonnière loop behind the lapel, the works!

 

So, on a wonderfully crisp Spring morning, a resolute young man briskly walked across Piccadilly and through the Burlington Arcade, marched down the Row and, bringing his courage to the sticking point, pushed through the heavy Victorian oak and beveled glass front door of one of the most reputable bespoke tailoring firms in the world — all the while thinking of the kings and presidents, film stars and international diplomats, Greek shipping magnates, English dukes, Texas oil millionaires, and Continental boulevardiers who had preceded him.

 

I was also wondering what I should do once the door silently but firmly closed behind me and left me standing inside the entrance of this august, intimidating establishment.

 

Not to worry, as the English say. Standing outwardly calm, but inwardly shaking like a wet dog, I was quietly approached by an elderly gentleman in impeccably-cut pin-stripes, who very properly and politely asked me if he might be of assistance. “Oh, I want a suit,” I brightly said. Trust me to say the right thing.

 

“Of course, sir,” he calmly replied, taking me gently by the elbow and ushering me down the worn and faded Persian carpet, between the long oak refectory tables groaning under rolled bolts of worsted and tweed. And did I prefer town or country suiting, he inquired.

 

I spent the next forty-five minutes or so going through the cloth swatch books, dozens and dozens of them – there must have been a hundred different patterns of district checks in tweed alone – some containing squares of cloth I thought I’d seen twenty minutes before in another book. My elderly guide stood demurely at my side, offering a word or two of encouragement or advice if I turned to him with a swatch between my fingers.

 

“Very serviceable piece of worsted, that is, sir. Perhaps a bit too heavy, though, for your climate at home, would you think, sir?

 

In one book I spied a handsome plaid of rusty brown with a lavender and Kelly green over pane. Did he think it was a bit loud?

 

“Well, I wouldn’t necessarily say loud, sir. But perhaps it does tend to mutter a bit.” Scratch that one.

 

Finally, I settled on a mid-weight, grey cheviot cloth in a miniature herringbone pattern.

 

“An excellent choice, sir, if I may say so,” my well-upholstered counselor intoned. “You may be interested to know that this particularly cloth has been woven for us for almost a hundred years now. Had a suit of it myself when I was younger.” And then the magic request.

 

“And now, sir, if you will kindly step through?”. His outstretched arm directed me toward the muted elegance of that burnished wood cubicle with the beveled triplex full-length mirror and malt-colored flannel curtain: THE FITTING ROOM.

 

I’ll save the operations of the fitting room for another time. Suffice it to say here that it is a place of both magic and mystery, as well as considerable consolation and gratification denied even to prayer. And so the words, “And now, sir, if you will kindly step through,” have always had a spiritually transforming effect on me, as well as the slightly more prosaic literal one.

Sunday, December 18, 2005

So-Ho-Ho-Ho, Christmas Shopping In Soho, NYC

Santa’s red velvet pants? No, Paul Smith

Sunday, December 18, 2005

Window Shopping…….Ralph Lauren Holiday Season

Sunday, December 18, 2005

Christmas Time In The West Village

I’m counting at least 14 Marc Jacobs bags.

Sunday, December 18, 2005

Sartorialist On Ice

Saturday, December 17, 2005

Street Vendor….The English Eccentric

This guy sells vegetable slicers on the street in NYC. After listening to his pitch over and over again in about a 10 minute span I believe he started out as a bit of a character but has turned into a full-blown super stylin’ eccentric.

Saturday, December 17, 2005

Duffle Coat….Union Square, Manhattan

There is something very Parisian about this look.

Friday, December 16, 2005

A Few Questions For Domenico Vacca

Domenico Vacca was kind enough to answer a few questions for The Sartorialist about the future growth of his company.

Q: Do you have a design background?

A: My grandmother was one of the best tailors in the South of Italy. I grew up looking at her designs and patterns, and that was the best experience I could have ever had.

Q: As a percentage, what is the volume split between the men?s and women?s collections?

A: 60% Men, 40% Women

Q: You have grown your business very quickly in the U.S.; any plans for Europe or Asia?

A: Milan in September 2006, Hong Kong after that, with London and Paris and Moscow following.

Q: Do you see offering the DV label through specialty or department stores?

A: I have many requests from the department stores, but quality and exclusivity do not match with the department store concept. We are working on a new formula that may work!

Q: Any new product categories in the works?

A: We just launched the formal wear and evening wear collections, and we are working on perfumes, jewelry and watches.

Q: Fashion shows?

A: September 2006 New York City. All Sartorialists are invited!

Q: Are you going to Hollywood?

A: We are already in Hollywood with a store on Rodeo Drive, and three movies for which we designed and manufactured the entire wardrobes in 2005.

?Stranger than Fiction?, the new movie of director Marc Forster (?Finding Neverland?), where I designed the wardrobes for Dustin Hoffman, Will Farrell, and Queen Latifah.

“The Inside Man?, the new movie of director Spike Lee, for which we designed the wardrobes of Denzel Washington, Christopher Plummer and Jodie Foster.

“Mission Impossible 3″ for Tom Cruise.

Also, we dress on a regular basis Scarlett Johansson, Melanie Griffith, Jodie Foster, Nicollette Sheridan, Usher, Diddy, Kanye West, Eddie Murphy, Antonio Banderas, and many designers such as Valentino Garavani and Tommy Hilfiger.

Friday, December 16, 2005

Window Shopping…….Domenico Vacca Display

Thursday, December 15, 2005

G. Bruce Boyer To Contribute To The Sartorialist!

I am thrilled to announce that well known style writer G. Bruce Boyer has written a small piece exclusively for The Sartorialist.

Mr. Boyer ,who recently released a great book on Fred Astaire which can be found at B & N.com, has written a small remembrance entitled “A Favorite English Sentence” about his first experience buying a suit on Savile Row.

It is really quite wonderful, I will post it Monday, December 19th.

Thursday, December 15, 2005

Inside Domenico Vacca….Sal Cipriano, Madison Ave. Manager


One of the points that I found most interesting during my conversation with Domenico Vacca, was that by basing his company in the U.S., it actually allowed him to make it more Italian in look, quality, and tradition than if he had opened it in today’s Italy. He cited the current Italian economic conditions (fewer affluent Italians), and cultural climate (a growing casualness in dressing), combined with the fact that the American customer has become less label conscious and more quality driven, as the elements that helped affirm his decision.

A lawyer before moving into fashion full-time, Domenico, unlike most of his high-end, but very old school, Italian and English counterparts, has a very clear strategic plan for the growth of his business, the look of his products, and the promotion and marketing of his brand. He takes great pride in explaining how he has carefully crafted a business based on an Italian spirit of fashion and an American attitude towards marketing and customer service.

Domenico has succeeded in quickly carving a niche for his luxe look. In a very short span of time he has opened six boutiques: 3 in Manhattan, plus locations in Palm Beach, Bal Harbour, and Beverly Hills on Rodeo Drive.

Thursday, December 15, 2005

Window Shopping…….Domenico Vacca Display

Wednesday, December 14, 2005

Style Profile…Giuseppe de Corato – CEO, Luigi Borrelli

Giuseppe de Corato is all of 32 years old and already President and CEO of Luigi Borrelli U.S.

I began by asking him how he began ,at such a young age, at such an old school company?
He replied by saying that both his father and grandfather had always worn Kiton and Battistoni and that as he grew up…..ok, stop right there, I already hate him.

Thats like a woman telling another woman that she use to play dress-up in her mom’s old Chanel hand-me-downs, it’s just not fair.

Borrelli is currently in a serious expansion mode having just opened a new boutique in San Francisco and is currently finalizing plans for several new locations in other major cities across America.

The Sartorialist, stifling his growing envy, asked Giuseppe about sartorial advise given and received, and about his own personal style.

Best sartorial advice from your Dad?
Don’t follow trends. Classic dressing is timeless and always in fashion.

Best sartorial advice to pass down to your son?
Listen to your grandfather.

Hardest thing for American customers to understand about the ?Italian fit?.
Americans believe that more fabric is more comfortable. The Italian fit emphasizes a fit that is closer to the body. It gives the wearer a leaner, more fit look.

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist?s outfit
I always notice fit first, but a sense of style always makes the impression.

I always break this fashion rule.
I never polish my shoes.

I never break this fashion rule.
I always wear a jacket in the evening.

Favorite store?
Peck (food) Milano

Worst fashion mistake?
Underdressing.

Favorite ?fashiony? movie?
Thomas Crown Affair

Describe personal style:
Neapolitan elegance

You feel best wearing?
Something hand-made.

Most overrated item in menswear?
Designer labels.

Most underrated item in menswear?
Quality.

Most stylish city?
Milano

Never caught wearing?
Sweats

Favorite fashion magazine?
L’uomo Vogue

Wednesday, December 14, 2005

Flea Market Find…..A Very Fine Man

Tuesday, December 13, 2005

Hands Of A Tailor

Want to know the mark of a true tailor?

Check their index fingers.

Red, calloused, puffy, these are the hands of a craftsman.

Pictured above is Gerardo, he is the tailor at Domenico Vacca.

Tuesday, December 13, 2005

Young Girls Of Williamsburg Run With The Marathoners

I took this photo while shooting the New York Marathon this year. I’ve run the NYC Marathon twice so I actually saw the potential of this shot about 8 years ago.

Every year the Marathon makes its way through Williamsburg, a mostly Hasidic neighborhood in Brooklyn. A huge group of young Hasidic girls run back and forth between the runners, giggling and screaming the entire time.

The Marathon is such a great event, it brings together so many different types of people to support the runners. In my opinion it is the best sporting event in the city.

Tuesday, December 13, 2005

Window Shopping…….Domenico Vacca, Dec 12th

Monday, December 12, 2005

Williamsburg, Brooklyn

Monday, December 12, 2005

Inside Domenico Vacca….Oliver Gerona, Fifth Ave. Manager

Domenico Vacca does color very, very well. When I met with Domenico the other day, he told me about the little white lie some of his customers tell when first shopping in his store.
Apparently they tell Domenico they are “colorblind”, and ask him to put together shirt, tie, sweater combos. Over time it becomes clear they are not colorblind but “colorscared”. Domenico said one of the best rewards of selling is when they start coming by the store to show off the outfits and color combinations they put together themselves, and how much they appreciated his help in finding their sartorial voice.
To me that is what “service” is all about. Sure the follow-up calls, and home delivery, and whatever, are nice but I want expert help in making me look better and more personal in my own clothes.
Pictured above is Oliver Gerona, the manager of the Fifth Avenue store. He is one of those guys that can help you look much better than you ever thought you could, but that would still not be quite as good looking as him.

Monday, December 12, 2005

Sartorialiste On Ice


The vintage men’s duffel coat is great and the scarf is superb but ,really, isn’t about the hair.

Sunday, December 11, 2005

Inside The Luciano Barbera Showroom


I was the Barbera showroom the other day and Michal showed me the most perfect blazer/sweater/coat/jacket thing. A cashmere/wool ribbed knit that wears like a sweater but fits like a jacket. This jacket was one of his top sellers for Fall 2005.

If it is at all above freezing outside this would be my first choice.
I love how Michal adds his own sprezzatura with the attitude he gives the tie.

Sunday, December 11, 2005

Be Bold

Sunday, December 11, 2005

Old Man Style…Harlem, New York

Saturday, December 10, 2005

Street Artist….Soho, New York

You’ve got to appreciate any guy brave enough to wear one pair of Bathing Ape sneakers, let alone two colorways at one time.

Saturday, December 10, 2005

On The Street…. 57th Street, Midtown

The unmistakable silhouette of the Italian-cut suit. In this case, Loro Piana.

Saturday, December 10, 2005

39th Street Flea Market…Midtown, Manhattan


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The Chelsea Flea Market at 26th and Sixth was a New York institution for the chic elite.
Recently it was forced to relocate to West 39th Street, luckily the flea market finds are just as great and the chic are just as elite.

Friday, December 9, 2005

Style Profile…Jonathan Quearney, The Modern Tailor

I usually use the phrase “sweet and sinister” to describe a girl, but somehow that phrase perfectly fits Jonathan Quearney. He is charming like a typical Irish born and raised young man, but you can just tell that under the surface there is an edge.
I get the sense that he knows that if he is entering the slowly devolving arena of Savile Row that he better do it with his eyes wide open and search for how to make tailoring relevent to the modern customer.
One way he has done this is by understanding and embracing modern fashion, not fighting it. Jonathan is a partner in a very cool men’s knitwear collection in London called Aluma & The Tailor.

I met Jonathan when he was in New York recently and asked him a few questions about his personal style,

Must have item for Fall 2005?
If you want to add something useful to your wardrobe: softly tailored garments in plain velvets.

Favorite store?
B- Store, Conduit Street, London W1 England

Style icon?
For me, it was my bro, Hamo Quearney. He was part of a 3rd wave of mod culture and our dad was a tailor; he literally had it all sewn up.

Worst fashion mistake?
I can remember at 14 wearing an indigo denim shirt, tie, braces, and a biker jacket a lot. It does not seem so bad now because it was an unconscious fashion sense, and that?s what style is for me.

Most cherished item?
My left-handed tailors shears; they are an irreplaceable tool-of-the-trade in my case.

Favorite item of clothing?
An Anderson & Sheppard top-coat that was regularly worn in the 90?s at High Grove Estate by Thomas Mahon when attending his duties as royal tailor to HRH Prince of Wales. It is a hand-me-down, and the softest, tailored, knee length over garment one could own,

Favorite ?fashiony? movie?
Michael Caines suits in ?Get Carter? look so modern even today.

Describe personal style?
When I first visited Paris in the late 90?s what caught my eye the most was the vagrants sense of style and how they dressed. It was completely uninfluenced by any trend, for obvious reasons. It came from necessity.
Once I observed a man standing inside the door of the restaurant; I thought he had an amazing presence while he waited for the leftovers. It was winter and he was head-to-toe in tailored garments combined in the most amazing patterns. This was not shabby chic; quite the opposite, this man looked his best. I don?t dress like a French vagrant, but their sense of style inspired me greatly.

You feel best wearing?
Wearing a suit when people least expect it.

Personal Style quirk?
I am a tailor, so I wear a combination of more garments in a day than a computer programmer, for example.
This gives me the opportunity to experiment with more colors and patterns in my style. Because my clothes fit well I can contrast that with a combination of different tailored garments.

Dress to impress whom?
If you can be trusted, you should dress to impress yourself.

Most overrated item in menswear?
$2000+ designer suits.
Really bad value for money and quality.
My dad always said, if you want somebody to care about how you look go to a specialist.
Craftsmen today are still around for one simple reason, they love what they do.

Most underrated item in menswear?
A hand-made suit,
We all need a staple wardrobe and its true that many people today say they don?t need to wear a suit – I think this says a lot. Technology and other industries that are heavily marketed are convincing us to part with a large part of our disposable income. I compete against Motorola and Nokia for the customers? money in today?s menswear market.

Most stylish city?
Paris

Never caught wearing?
Same color shirt and tie together; it?s the lazy option.

When I was high school I wore?
The school uniform colors but not the school uniform.

Shine your own shoes?
Always, when I have time
Clean excess dirt / then apply even layer of polish and leave to dry / use a piece of cotton to remove the excess polish / then shine with a polish brush / the brush strokes in an anti-clockwise motion paying particular attention to the toe and heel areas.
When I travel up an escalator I use the bristles by my feet to shine my shoes.

Hobby?
Learning about the crafts of shoemaking, shirt making, hatmaking, textile printing, watch making etc.

Favorite fashion magazine?
Good For Nothing Magazine (former editor of Sleaze, Slazenation Stuart Turnball) because it?s young and I never want to grow up completely.

Thursday, December 8, 2005

Window Shopping…….Domenico Vacca

Thursday, December 8, 2005

Saks Outlines Plans For SFA Turnaround

In WWD today “Saks Outlines Plans For SFA Turnaround.”

Saks says

The top priority is better inventory management to help gross margins – Fewer Clothes.

SFA will invest in building the Saks luxury image with customers- increasing marketing budgets for more events. Jennings, SFA President, pointed to three new restaurants at SFA as part of the strategy to create a luxury environment. – More Food.
Like I need more food from Saks

From Saks customers I hear they want more educated salespeople, and from the designers/brands that sell to Saks they want more educated buyers.
More than a few times I’ve heard that vendors are frustrated by 24 year-old buyers with no real knowledge of the area they are buying. Maybe that is why the merchandise mix is often off.

Saks- please stop rearranging the chairs and make us believe in you again.

Use the Apple Stores as a prototype,
They don’t need restaurants, they have an educated staff that believe so strongly in the product that a customer cannot help but fall under their spell of confidence and knowledge.
Shopping at Apple is a total WOW experience and that is what I want when spending $2500 on a suit.

Thursday, December 8, 2005

On The Street…. Harlem, New York

Accessories to match your shirt.

Thursday, December 8, 2005

This Is How To Wear A Coat

I love how slim this coat is, and yet Mory is still able to wear his suit jacket underneath comfortably. Notice the pocket square in the coat.

Precision of cut!

Checkout the Eredi Pisano website.

Thursday, December 8, 2005

Made-To-Measure Room, Kiton Boutique, Manhattan

The Power of Intimidation.
Kiton U.S. is housed in a turn-of-the-century bank. The big moneymaker “Made-to-Measure” room is easily one of the most impressive spaces in New York men’s retailing. Beautiful, original woodwork and modeling, chandeliers, and a huge table of full-size bolts of cloth from which to choose your suit, are all carefully utilized to separate you from your money. Luckily you come away with one of the most elegant and well-crafted suits in the business.

Thursday, December 8, 2005

Old Sailor…6th Ave., Manhattan

Wednesday, December 7, 2005

Orange Crush

Wednesday, December 7, 2005

Kiton Boutique, NYC….Nicola Zilli

Sprezzatura.

Luciano Barbera defines “sprezzatura” as detachment, quiet confidence, or low-key style.

Nicola has this in spades.

Let’s not confuse sprezzatura, though, with refinement or perfection; Nicola is a little shaggy, a little raw, and if you saw his shoes, certainly a little quirky. Think Agnelli without the money.

If I was still single I would sign up to be his wingman. What is the Italian word for “wingman”?

Wednesday, December 7, 2005

The Proper Way to Beret

Wednesday, December 7, 2005

Window Shopping…….Bergdorf Goodman 11/19

Tuesday, December 6, 2005

Kiton Boutique, Manhattan

Tuesday, December 6, 2005

On The Street….Lower East Side, New York

Tuesday, December 6, 2005

Flea Market Find…..The Portrait 2

Monday, December 5, 2005

Kiton Boutique,NYC….Jose M. Rodriquez

Perfectly tailored suit….Check
Perfectly showing just enough Pocket Square….Check
Perfect Shoes…Check
Perfect frames for face shape…Check
Perfect turn-of-the-century stair case to pose in front of….Check

Monday, December 5, 2005

Sartorialiste – Sweet & Sinister

Sunday, December 4, 2005

Custom Made Boots, Farmer’s Market, Union Square

Click on the image to enlarge in a new window

Sunday, December 4, 2005

The New Skate Style….It’s Still About The Hair

Sunday, December 4, 2005

The New Skate Style….Shoe Tree

Sunday, December 4, 2005

On The Street…. Brooklyn, New York

For me this shot is all about the silver cuff on his right wrist and the attitude of his cap.

Saturday, December 3, 2005

Sartorialist “Best Practice” For The Weekend

The Scarf.
I think his is fantastic, and the way it is tied (not too tight), almost like it has its own personality.
It shows how a simply but strong accessory can make an entire look.

Saturday, December 3, 2005

Window Shopping…….Barneys New York, Moncler

I love the color of this Juna Watanabe for Moncler puffy coat

Friday, December 2, 2005

In The Mix….Meatpacking District, Manhattan

Let me point out a few details.
Spectator shoes, wide-cuffed glen plaid pants, beret, bike.
Did I mention the Gucci-belted fur collar and cuffed coat?

Friday, December 2, 2005

Kiton Boutique, Manhattan

Friday, December 2, 2005

D. Singer Fabric Store…Lower East Side, Manhattan

Thursday, December 1, 2005

Style Profile…David Anicich – Luigi Borrelli, New York

Where has all the good sales help gone?
I found one, David Anicich, the store manager at Luigi Borrelli in Manhattan. New customers come to David because they want the “Borrelli Look”; their eye might not pick up the subtle nuances that separate Borrelli from say Brioni but they know it is different somehow.
When the customer steps out of the dressing room and David starts working his magic, you can see the customers face go from puzzled concern to “ahhhh…thats the look I was going for.” The pants might be a little shorter than they are use to, the jacket a little more snug, the collar a little more spread, but they love it.
David is like that barber who gently but firmly tells you that a mullet might not be the best haircut for your face shape.

The Sartorialist asked David a few questions about his personal style.

Best Sartorial advice from your Dad?
Always punch your weight and dress your age.

Best Sartorial advice to pass down to your son?
Listen to your tailor, but always remember you have to wear the suit.

Hardest thing for American customer to understand about the ?Italian fit??
That a suit (or shirt) that fits the body is more natural, comfortable and flattering way to dress than the shapeless (relaxed?) fit most men are used to wearing.

You build your daily look around your?
My mood and who I need to be on that day.

The first thing I look at in another Sartorialist?s outfit?
The overall fit. A man who understands how his clothes should fit always looks confident and “put together”.

I skimp when buying?
Jeans! classic Levi’s on sale!!!

I splurge when buying?
Seven fold ties and bench made shoes.

I never break this fashion rule?
I NEVER wear a watch and ALWAYS wear formal shoes with a tuxedo.

Favorite store?
Casa dello Sport in Firenze and Marinella in Napoli

Favorite item of clothing?
An old pair of suede chukka boots.

Describe personal style?
Classic Dad.

Personal Style quirk?
Re-tying my tie throughout the day until I get it right.

Dress to impress who?
My sons.

Most overrated item in menswear?
Denim.

Most underrated item in menswear?
A good tailor and an honest salesman.

Most stylish city?
New York. The mix of styles and level of self expression is like no other city.

Never caught wearing?
White

Thursday, December 1, 2005

Don’t Call Me Today, I Just Got The New Bruce Weber Book!


Bruce Weber is the best photographer in the fashion world.
Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Abercrombie & Fitch, has any current photographer created more iconic advertising images? At the same time no other fashion photographer shows more heart in photographing both models like Kate Moss or his Montana ranching neighbor with equal dignity and beauty.

I saw Bruce once at the Film Forum waiting for the crowd to exit the premiere of his Letter to True movie. No entourage or assistants, just Bruce standing in the lobby. I introduced myself and told him how much I enjoy his work ( understand, I’m a New Yorker so I never do that) and he could not have been more pleasant and accommodating. Bruce is one of the few photographers that you can learn a little more about acceptance and humanity by looking at the full catalog of his work.